Clutch switch replaced and now no crank

[abaione]

My car ran fine until my clutch switch failed. After replacing it, the car would not energize the starter motor. Then the car sat for 3 years before further efforts to remedy this condition began (battery now dead and won’t take/hold a charge).

Recently, with the same dead battery installed and jumper cables connected to a running vehicle, I tried to crank the car after shorting pin 3 to pin 2 inside the clutch switch, but still no crank. Separately, push starting by popping the clutch with a hand held starter battery connected didn’t work (engine turned over but no kick at all).

Could the installed (unable to charge) dead battery be preventing the starter motor from cranking or ignition and fuel system from working?

Is there another way to bypass the clutch switch?

[Eric93se]

Replace the battery, pump out the old bad gas, put ~3-4gal fresh premium. With a wrench or very thick head screw driver, touch the large terminal on the starter to the medium one on the starter. Do not let the metal tool touch ANYTHING else because it is full battery current un-fused and can fry whatever else it touches. You can wrap the tool with electrical tape. When a car sits this long the gas goes bad and in some cases the fuel pump goes bad, so listen for the pump to prime when turning the ignition on. That sound however is not an indication of proper fuel pressure need to start the car.

Pumping out the old gas is not easy but can be done. One could energize the fuel pump and attach a hose to the schrader valve at the front of the fuel rail.

- - - Updated - - -

You should remove the clutch switch and bench test it and then watch some videos showing you how to do the job cause maybe you messed up.

- - - Updated - - -

You don't need a $200 battery as long as the CCA is at least ~650 and it fits and you can secure it.

[abaione]

I replaced the battery, shorted the starter and it ran. Thanks for your advice! I still cannot get the ignition key to energize the starter.

Three years ago, the back of the clutch switch popped off its housing as I tried to remove it (I was trying to replace a failed brake light switch and got mixed up). I had parked the car on the street to do the work, and with the clutch switch broken, I could not re-start the car then. Wanting to get it off the street, I tried shorting the three leads coming off the connector to the clutch switch as I turned the ignition key. I could not make it work and pushed the car back into the garage (where it sat for the past 3 years).

Today, I removed the clutch switch housing and collected the clutch switch parts that came off in my hand three years ago. Having the housing was cracked (from 3 years ago) but not broken, and so I reassembled and reinstalled it (absent pulling on it like I did prior, it is as good as new). There is no reason to believe the switch is not functional. Did I damage some other circuit by attempting to short those leads? If so, is what is the likely part to test or replace, and is there a workaround without replacement?

Thank you for your help with this.

[Eric93se]

How do you know the clutch switch was the cause of your no start in the first place?

The car does not crank with the key?

- - - Updated - - -

Scan for codes.

[zellamay]

You're putting way too much energy into the clutch switch. Just bypass it. It's easy. I do it to all my cars. Then you can move on to figure out whether it's a fuse, the ignition switch, or some wiring problem.

[abaione]

How do I bypass the clutch switch?

[zellamay]

Search google for " z3 how to bypass clutch switch ", or "E36 how to bypass clutch switch".

[abaione]

Thank you both for your help. I found, after additional study using a 1992-1998 Service Manual, that multiple fuses relate to EWS II and immobilization.

I had checked this before, but #45 was either overlooked or thought to be good. After replacing it, the engine cranks as normal.

Thanks again.