97 328is m52 misfire and slowly dies

[TanBerg]

Hello everyone! I have a 97 328is m52 auto that I bought with a blown head, rebuilt it and now am in the process of getting it driving. I am now having the trouble of a cylinder 6 misfire, a ticking sound coming from the fuel rail?... and it slowly dying.:mad
*Catalyst, EVAP, Secondary Air System, o2 sensor, and o2 sensor heater Monitors are not set as I have not felt comfortable driving more than 5min with the misfire.
Misfire, Fuel System and Comprehensive Component Monitors are set*

What it does is, I start the car, and it takes maybe 7 turns of the motor, I know it's more than its supposed to. While it's idling you can hear a constant and fast ticking sound coming from the fuel rail I'm pretty sure. I put a socket extension up to the rail and my ear and I could hear it clear as day. When i put it up against the valve cover or the IM, it is faint, guessing as it's a little bit away from the source?...
Now onto the 3rd problem. When "idling", after about 3 or so minutes the car slowly cuts idle multiple times and then dies. In other terms it bogs down every 7 seconds? and after the 5th bog or so, it kills the motor.
Codes are P0306 and P0135

P0306(Cyl #6 Misfire) I already swapped the coil and no change. Pulled the plug and it looked lean with no gas residue after starting. Cleaned with wire brush and put it back in, no change.
P01359(o2 heater circuit bank 1, sensor 1) I haven't really gotten into that

ALSO!! I was driving it back in April (before new battery) and all of a sudden all power was lost and the gauges and radio restarted, BUT the engine stayed running.\
Im trying to think of any other information I have to give.

https://youtube.com/shorts/83JmzsXoBXA?feature=share


P0306 Freeze Frame Data
Fuel Sys 1- OL
Fuel Sys 2- OL
Calc Load- 20.4%
ECT- 86F
STFT B1- 0.0%
LTFT B1- 0.8%
STFT B2- 0.0%
LTFT B2- 1.6%
Eng RPM- 1431
Veh Speed- 0mph

Thank you and I appreciate any and all help!!!

[Eric93se]

Did you have the head decked and checked for cracks at a machine shop? If not I would recommend doing a compression test, remove all the sparkplugs, fuel really, put a charger on the battery.

[TanBerg]

Did you have the head decked and checked for cracks at a machine shop? If not I would recommend doing a compression test, remove all the sparkplugs, fuel really, put a charger on the battery.

I did have the head decked and checked for cracks at the machine shop. They did a full rebuild on the head. They said they did not find anything except some bent valves (reason I took it in)
I’ll go ahead and do a compression test anyway, just so I can rule that out, probably get that done either today or tomorrow.
Going to charge the battery!
I’ll update once the compression check is done! Think I might as well go for a leak down too

[retiredfreebimm]

Did you have the head decked and checked for cracks at a machine shop? If not I would recommend doing a compression test, remove all the sparkplugs, fuel really, put a charger on the battery.

This drives me nuts like "Turn the car on" instead of "Starting the car". We turn on electric vehicles, and start or fire up internal combustion engines.
The proper terminology is;
You "resurface" a head, "decking" (resurfacing) refers to the top of the engine block called the "deck" where the head bolts on.
The machine shops all get a big laugh at this one,don't be that guy.
Rant off.

[Eric93se]

Noted! :D

[TanBerg]

Sorry for another late response, been super busy but I finally got around to looking at the bmw (waiting for battery to charge). I swapped cyl. #1 & #6 injectors and also sprayed some carb clean in the #6 injector. I did not compression test it yet, have to wait for o reillys to have it back in stock.
Anyway, I started it back up, definitely took a few cranks and it slowly came to idle, almost feels like fuel. Ran codes, only O2 heater codes but no more misfire codes, as of now, (misfire monitor IS set). Also tried to fuel pressure test but f’n o reillys kit doesn’t even has the right adapter. THEIR KIT DOESNT EVEN WORK ON MY 93 f150��

I looked at my live data on my scanner and it said Fuel Sys 1 OL-Fault
Fuel Sys 2 CL
Video of it running as of today 10/21/24 Still has old gas

https://youtu.be/ujO7Ja7FNew?feature=shared

Video also has live data at end^
Next plan of action is compression test (for peace of mind) and then fuel pressure test. I can almost guarantee(guess) that the fuel pump is bad as it looks like it’s OE after 200k miles.
What are your thoughts?

[Eric93se]

Check that the main engine ground cable has clean contacts and secure it (below exhaust manifold). Your code scanner is not good enough for your e36, get INPA (free, z3 diagnostics thread). Get an inpa USB cable and the 20pin round adapter. Determine if your fuel pump is good.

- - - Updated - - -

When doing the comp test, remove all sparkplugs, disable fuel, put charger on battery, fully depress gas pedal. Only crank till the gauge stops rising.

[TanBerg]

Check that the main engine ground cable has clean contacts and secure it (below exhaust manifold). Your code scanner is not good enough for your e36, get INPA (free, z3 diagnostics thread). Get an inpa USB cable and the 20pin round adapter. Determine if your fuel pump is good.

- - - Updated - - -

When doing the comp test, remove all sparkplugs, disable fuel, put charger on battery, fully depress gas pedal. Only crank till the gauge stops rising.

I will definitely check the ground, it is possible I did not put it back on

Ill buy a laptop and get the software/cable and check it out

I will also test fuel pressure soon. Need to figure out what kit to buy that’ll fit my fuel rail. Forums say 1/16…?