Preparation sanity check - chain guides

[bimmer7410]

Since I have some holiday time coming up, I figured it was a good time to do some maintenance numerous items on my beloved 540i. First up is the chain guides + some "while you're in theres". It appears that most end up reuising the same chain, so I elected to do the same.
I'm a hairs length away from 150k

Thus far, I have the following parts list
Guides
- Timing chain guide kit (ECSTuning)
- Oil separator/cyclone (ECSTuning)
- Timing tools kit

Vanos
- Seals repair kit (Besian)
- Vanos Press Tool

Cooling
- Transmission cooler t-stat (is leaking, FCPEuro)

I've also got a power steering leak, plus a few oil leaks that I really want to handle. With this job, I'll already be touching the VCG and the timing cover gaskets. I'd like to replace the upper oil pan gasket, but I'm fairly certain that would complicate this job much further.
I also have a power steering leak of which source I've yet to identify.

I've searched around on this topic for quite a while, but still wanted input on potential gotchas and other items to look into while there.

[JimLev]

Do you have a crank holder that you’ll need to get the “Jesus Bolt” off?
If you run into any issues rebuilding your vanos let me know, I have been rebuilding them for 9+ years.

[bimmer7410]

Yessir I do, as well as a breaker bar + extension for the jesus bolt.
Concerning that bolt, I'd read that they are TTY and should be replaced, however I have not seen anyone else stating they'd replaced theirs.

Will do on the VANOS tip.

[dtw]

I do replace the crank hub bolt every time on the M62. Others in my local friend circle do the same.

That being said, I reinstalled one on an M54 about 5 years ago and it is still running strong.

Upper pan gasket - I am a big fan of doing that job while doing the chain guides job. I know that many prefer to use some silicone at the lower timing cover/upper pan joint to patch a break/tear in the old upper pan gasket. I do not trust my own abilities to get a reliable seal with that approach.

Doing the upper pan job does help clear even more access to the engine mount on bank 5-8. Great time to replace all the oil line o-rings there.

[JimLev]

I did replace the crank bolt. I really don’t know if it’s 100% necessary as the new bolt was about a mm longer then the old bolt. So if the old torque to yield bolt was stretching why was it shorter than the new bolt?
I use a 3/4” breaker bar, many have broken the joint on a 1/2 bar.

[QtheGenius]

Double check you have a torque wrench to re-install the jesus bolt AND the vanos rebuild. If I recall, they are fairly high torque specs.

[dannyzabolotny]

The torque for the crank bolt is 100nm + 60º + 60º. Torque for the Vanos press tool is 100 ft/lb and then one full rotation past that. So you really only need a torque wrench that can go up to 100 ft/lb or so for the job, which even the cheapest Harbor Freight 1/2" torque wrench will easily do. Beyond that you use a big 3/4" drive breaker bar for the angle on the crank bolt and Vanos tool.

[JimLev]

Hope you have a big enough vise that is well bolted to your workbench.
I use my 4’ floor jack handle on the 3/4” breaker bar to do the 360º rotation.

[sienayr]

Other things to consider replacing if original, coolant hoses and belt pulleys. Water pump if it hasn't been done for awhile.


Belts & Pulleys



alt belt
11287636377


ac belt
11287636376


adj pulley
11287515865


adj pulley
11281742859


tensioner
11281745545






Coolant Hoses



coolant hose
11537505229


coolant hose
11537505228


coolant hose
11537511207


coolant hose
11531711385


coolant hose
11531711381


coolant hose
11531711384


O ring for hose 11531711384
11537501777


coolant temp sensor
13621433077








Cooling System




Water Pump
11510393336


Water Pump Gasket 11511731372
11511731372


Thermostat
11531436386


BMW Coolant - 2+ gallons



Coolant Pipe O-Ring - 11531710048
11531710048


Coolant Pipe O-Ring - 11531710055
11531710055


Alternator Gasket/O-Ring - Bosch F00M258503
F00M258503

[BostonJon]

^this

i made the mistake of using a vice that was bolted to a 1" thick benchtop and the beisan torque process ripped the vice off of the benchtop.

- - - Updated - - -

valley pan + gasket

seals on coolant crossover pipe behind the intake manifold

all coolant hoses

PS hoses

expansion tank

[dwgates]

Although most people tackle this job due to plastic guide surfaces failing, not chain stretch, if the chain has been rubbing on the aluminum guide (backing/ mounting) surfaces I'd plan on replacing them as well.
I don't remember the chains being an expensive part of this job.
I also didn't replace the crank bolt and mine has been doing fine (data point of one, I know).

[bimmer7410]

Appreciate all the tips, especially on the vice topic. Mine isn't on anything sturdy enough that I'd trust, so I'm planning on getting a solid workbench for that work.
The main reason I'm tackling the job is actually to replace the oil separating valve. I currently have a catch can that I'll be able to get rid of because of it.

The cooling system was replaced last year so I think I'll stick with the parts for now, to avoid spending too much.

If the guides have rubbed down to the metal, I'll order a chain; another good tip.

Regarding the jesus bolt, I do have a good torque wrench but it isn't applicable for that level of torque. I utilized the method where you reach a lower level of torque, then continue to turn based on degree count when I replaced the motor in my 545, so I'll do the same here

Again appreciate all the input. I'll be getting started today

[bimmer7410]

Been a (long) while. Project got slowed massively due to life.

I'm currently stuck at removing the main cover face off. Everything else (alternator, lower oil pan, all hoses, upper covers, bolts, etc) has been removed, but this cover barely budges and I'm not confident enough to force it further.
I've removed all the bolts previously covered by the lower oil pan, as well as 2 others that tie it down from the bottom.
All frontward-facing bolts have been removed as well.

I'd read that sometimes that upper oil pan gasket can tie it down pretty tight..