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taube
08-23-2023, 05:22 PM
Hi everyone!

Over the last few weeks, I've been scouring the forum for info to help diagnose and solve my intermittent misfire problem. I've now reached a point where I have checked everything that I understand (which is not too much unfortunately) and could really use some guidance and/or discussion partners to figure out the next steps. Disclaimer: I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty, but this the first car I've ever worked on myself. I'll go to a professional if and when it is necessary, but it takes weeks to get an appointment anywhere at the moment so I'm trying what I can in the meantime. I also enjoy the learning process :)

The car: 1995 E36 318i convertible (euro, manual, m43b18 engine, ~125.000km)

The issue: Intermittent misfire >~120kph/~3500 rpm
It only starts occurring about 15-30 minutes after operating temperature has been reached. Occurs at different speeds/rpm in a seemingly random manner, but never when accellerating/WOT. If I back off the throttle, it stops and often doesnt return when I get back on it. I do feel like the car runs slighty rougher at highway speeds once the problem starts occurring, but at this point I'm starting to think every bump is a symptom. Runs fine when its cold and I feel no clear hesitation in acceleration or lack of power at any point (other than normal for a 318i:)). I've had multiple mechanics comment on how well it runs in fact.

Things I've tried:
- Brought it to a mechanic, who read the codes (its OBD-I and I cannot do this myself) and said the lambda sensor needed replacing, which they did. They test drove it and said it ran good and could not reproduce the problem. As I said it only really occurs after the car has been warm for a while, so maybe they never got to that point.
- The coil pack had corrosion on one of the leads, so I swapped it with a second hand part. I've been told these coil packs are pretty durable and the dealer I bought it from said it was good, so I'm trusting that for now.
- The spark plugs looked fine, but replaced all of them for good measure.
- Replaced the fuel filter.
- Measured fuel pressure (after the filter was replaced) and it seemed a bit high with the engine on, so replaced the fuel pressure regulator.
- Measured the MAF and IAT, which seemed fine
- Measured resistance on the injectors, which all read 15.9 Ohms. Did find some oil in a few connectors, which puzzled me but it hasn't come back since cleaning it. I checked the wire harness for oil creeping up through it but the wires running to the injectors were bone dry. (Could it creep up on the inside of the insulation?)
- I've also recently cleaned the ICV and Throttle Valve and replaced the rubber intake boot and vaccuum lines from and to ICV.

Addtionally: it used to run without MAF connected, but right now it starts but immediately dies. This suggests to me that something is wrong even if the MAF is bad.

In conclusion: Unfortunately, the problem persists and I am clearly out of my depth. So far the parts have been cheap (apart from the lambda sensor) but I'd like to avoid randomly throwing more parts at it. I dont think it is a compression issue, as I would expect more consisten problems (right?) My latest theory is that maybe the crankshaft sensor is going bad? I've read some posts that were similar to mine of people only having issues at high rpm and it being very random. The fact that it takes a while after reaching operating temperature before the issue starts occurring, suggests to me that it is a sensor somewhere outside the engine that thus takes longer to heat up.

If you're still reading at this point, thank you for your patience and I would be happy for any guidance you might be able to give me!

Cheers and sorry for writing half a novel.

Eric93se
08-25-2023, 02:32 AM
So the oil in the sparkplug tubes is an issue you basically need a new valve cover gasket. Not familiar with the job on the 4 banger but be sure to replace the grommets that go under the bolts, check out a detailed diy in case there are dabs of rtv silicon needs at certain spots.

You might want to put new HT wire set because the oil on the boots can allow for the HT to short out. Thoroughly washing them with brake cleaner might be fine too, but an old wire set can also be where your misfire is coming from. In the future don't ever buy second hand ignition coils.

- - - Updated - - -

And welcome to the forum :)

taube
09-07-2023, 09:06 AM
Thanks for the reply and the warm welcome!

A small clarification: the oil wasnt in the spark plug tubes, but in the injector connectors. I've read references to that also being traced to the valve cover gasket or to oil creeping through the wiring harness. After cleaning, it hasnt come back since, so for now Im putting that aside as not being related to the misfire problem. I'll definitely have a look at a DIY for the valve cover gasket though, thanks!

Since my post I've driven the car some more. I've found that the problem mostly occurs when sustaining speeds between 115 and 135 kph. Suddenly lifting off after keeping throttle steady for a while seems to also cause some small hiccups and the issue occurs more often when driving downhill (but not exclusively). I never have the issue when accellerating.
It's also pretty random. I was driving around for hours at 120kph without any issue, when out of nowhere it started to act up. Other times it would happen immediately after reaching highway speeds. It never has an issue below 100 or beyond 150 kph.

Upon my return I had a local mechanic read the codes and apparently it had a code for too high airflow sensor reading. This fit with my suspicion that there might be some bad spots on the carbon track of the AFM (based on it seemingly being speed dependent). I did read that 1992+ models can give this code incorrectly when the idle control valve is not operating properly, but since it idles fine I'm assuming its good for now. Also considering I cleaned it recently and replaced the vaccuum lines already.

I'll test if I can confirm my suspicions about bad spots in the AFM. What I don't get is why my car won't run with the AFM disconnected anymore? I originally ignored the AFM because the car used to run without it and now it doesnt, indicating to me that the issue was to be found elsewhere. Is that thinking wrong? Would driving around with a bad AFM somehow affect the "limp home mode" the car goes into when the AFM is disconnected? Any insights into this are appreciated :)

Eric93se
09-07-2023, 03:37 PM
The car has to rely on other sensors when you unplug the AFM, so the engine coolant temp sensor or the pre cat o2 sensor could be bad.

XnWarden
09-08-2023, 10:39 PM
I support your diagnosis of a bad sensor. It sounds like it only occurs when the car switches from closed to open loop. During warmup and initial run conditions the computer operates off of pre-programmed parameters.

After the engine reaches temp and the car has been running a while, the computer switches to live adaptations based on sensor data. Without being able to pull codes and look at the live data, this could be hard to chase down.

You need to learn how to read spark plugs. Think back to the old days when Indian scouts could put their ear to the ground and determine a targets position. That's kind of like what reading spark plugs is like.

Run the car until you replicate the problem, and then drive it for a bit to make sure it's really acting up. Go home and pull the spark plugs and study the wear patterns on them. This only works if the plugs are new and not coated with antiseize or anything like that.

Lots of info on the internet about how to read plugs. Or you can post a picture here and I'll try to read them for you

Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk

AUTOGEDAS
09-11-2023, 03:51 AM
I'm having same problem on OBD2, tried changing CPS, under the starter, haven't fixed the problem, i found that when you change this sensor, you need updated wiring, is it really the case?

Eric93se
09-11-2023, 01:57 PM
If the sensor has no pigtail then you already have the harness upgrade.

AUTOGEDAS
09-12-2023, 01:08 AM
If the sensor has no pigtail then you already have the harness upgrade.

wdym no pigtail, can i get more explanation

Eric93se
09-12-2023, 01:58 AM
The new setup the bare sensor has no cable. The original sensor has a cable.

AUTOGEDAS
09-12-2023, 02:31 AM
The new setup the bare sensor has no cable. The original sensor has a cable.

OK, so now i'm a little bit confused. I changed my CPS (near the starter) with 12141703221 code like it had before few months ago, but it still has problem running properly and i get fault code, so now i called my BMW part dealer, gave him my VIN and he came with this 12141709616 part number, which is newer one, if i understand correctly, with no cable. Why it is not running with the same code sensor and should i get a newer one with cable upgrade?

Eric93se
09-12-2023, 03:23 AM
First one is the camshaft sensor, second one is the revised crankshaft sensor.

If you have m52 s52 only buy Siemens for the camshaft sensor.

- - - Updated - - -

The revised crankshaft sensor with harness update runs the sensor at 12V.

You should start a new thread, explain all your observations and what you've test and what was replaced. Also update your signature to list your model and year.