Mr.N20 dyi’er
01-18-2023, 09:19 PM
So basically I bought my f30 n20 two years ago with 150,000 miles for $6k . Within the first week the serpentine belt and tensioner failed. Replaced it myself, fast forward I ended up replacing the valve cover gasket. After a while I decided to do an oil change like I do every 3k-5k miles, the plastic oil plug stripped and my car sat for 2 weeks until I finally got the drain plug off. After filling her up with oil, my timing chain decided to take a shit. I also replaced that cam sensor and spark plugs before coming to the conclusion that the chain and guides failed. Ended up taking me 3 weeks to finish my timing chain with new oil pan and she ran like brand new, mind you this IÂ’ve only had her for one year at this point.
Fast forward 6-7 months later, I decided to get GFB diverted valve because I kept have a drivetrain malfunction, trying to install this I ended up pulling my hot side coolant hose and so I had to replace that also along with my upper coolant hose connected to my oil cooler. Finished fixing tha old coolant pipe and also added an aluminum flange for reliability but then my batter died(btw had already replaced it during the timing chain incident and also had bought a mst inlet pipe because the old plastic one broke) but my car kept dying and I ended up thinking my alternator failed so I replaced it and also my oil filter housing gasket along with an aluminum charge pipe because I already had to remove it. read a couple of forums and learned about the integrated supply module so I replaced it also. After all was said and done. My n20 came back to life with basically brand new electrical.
Now getting along with the issue at hand, also I have drove this car to Chattanooga and Atlanta before with no problems besides my rear wheel bearings and axle failure( had to replace those also), no engine nor transmission problems. But about a week ago I finally wanted to go all out and see how fast I could go with no tunes, just enjen cai, charge pipe, mst inlet pipe, and gfb diverter valve. Topped out at 135mph. Reached my destination and mind u this when I drive to Atlanta I was going 110mph without my aftermarket charge pipe. But I had parked her like normal to throw away some trash at my apartment dump, And the auto stop/start function cut the car off. And when I went press the ignition the starter motor would just click once and the starter solenoid started smoking. I ended up replacing that also but it turns out that it wasnÂ’t it either. After installing the new starter tried to crank over with 3 slow cranks then again with the single click. Read on forums about engines being Seized that show the same symptoms, I then went to hand crank the crankshaft with all spark plugs removed, manually put her in neutral, took serpentine belt off, and now tried to crank it with my breaker bar and now the crankshaft is seized.
But what I need advice on is how do she seize when I was parked at idle before I went to dump my trash. I read a couple different forums and apparently a guy had a kinda similar problem except his crankshaft was seized due to his wastegate was stuck closed and cause back pressure. So IÂ’m wondering is this my problem, if so how would you guys handle it and if youÂ’ve had similar problems with this engine and solved it, please tell how you did. I want to save this engine if possible. IÂ’m at 183,000 miles. Also is it possible to fix this without have to replace the crankshaft and if I have is there a way to replace it without removing engine from engine bay. I also have my codes too.
Any advise or help is needed. Thank you
Fast forward 6-7 months later, I decided to get GFB diverted valve because I kept have a drivetrain malfunction, trying to install this I ended up pulling my hot side coolant hose and so I had to replace that also along with my upper coolant hose connected to my oil cooler. Finished fixing tha old coolant pipe and also added an aluminum flange for reliability but then my batter died(btw had already replaced it during the timing chain incident and also had bought a mst inlet pipe because the old plastic one broke) but my car kept dying and I ended up thinking my alternator failed so I replaced it and also my oil filter housing gasket along with an aluminum charge pipe because I already had to remove it. read a couple of forums and learned about the integrated supply module so I replaced it also. After all was said and done. My n20 came back to life with basically brand new electrical.
Now getting along with the issue at hand, also I have drove this car to Chattanooga and Atlanta before with no problems besides my rear wheel bearings and axle failure( had to replace those also), no engine nor transmission problems. But about a week ago I finally wanted to go all out and see how fast I could go with no tunes, just enjen cai, charge pipe, mst inlet pipe, and gfb diverter valve. Topped out at 135mph. Reached my destination and mind u this when I drive to Atlanta I was going 110mph without my aftermarket charge pipe. But I had parked her like normal to throw away some trash at my apartment dump, And the auto stop/start function cut the car off. And when I went press the ignition the starter motor would just click once and the starter solenoid started smoking. I ended up replacing that also but it turns out that it wasnÂ’t it either. After installing the new starter tried to crank over with 3 slow cranks then again with the single click. Read on forums about engines being Seized that show the same symptoms, I then went to hand crank the crankshaft with all spark plugs removed, manually put her in neutral, took serpentine belt off, and now tried to crank it with my breaker bar and now the crankshaft is seized.
But what I need advice on is how do she seize when I was parked at idle before I went to dump my trash. I read a couple different forums and apparently a guy had a kinda similar problem except his crankshaft was seized due to his wastegate was stuck closed and cause back pressure. So IÂ’m wondering is this my problem, if so how would you guys handle it and if youÂ’ve had similar problems with this engine and solved it, please tell how you did. I want to save this engine if possible. IÂ’m at 183,000 miles. Also is it possible to fix this without have to replace the crankshaft and if I have is there a way to replace it without removing engine from engine bay. I also have my codes too.
Any advise or help is needed. Thank you