2001 bmw e39 540i automatic---no crank

[xaos]

Hi all, any help is appreciated.

I have a 2001 540 auto with no crank. i went into the store, came out and that was it. no crank, no click, nothing. i have done my research and tons of troubleshooting.

a local shop looked at it and 4 mechanics couldnt figure it out. $500 for them to check absolutely everything they could and still no luck.

Here's what they did and what i've done so far to try and figure this out. they said there was a code for the driveaway module (ews??) that's all ive got from them. they also said the 50a fuse under the pass seat would keep blowing? i have not verified this as it doesnt even make sense. ive never heard of the fuse box under the front pass seat to blow fuses unless it got soaked in water and got rusty, even then i never heard of that causing issues like this. i DO have a replacement fuse box for in the trunk and under the seat if you think replacing those would do anything at all.

the starter was checked and verified in working condition. all fuses checked. even the ones under the pass seat and trunk and under the hood obviously. i replaced the ews, key and dme from an identical car, even the part numbers were all the same. still no crank. i thought this would atleast get it to crank w.o fuel or spark??? guess not.
i by passed or jumped the ews module and still no go. i also jumped pin 6 and pin 40 together on the dme harness to try and bypass the ews and still no go. i replaced the ignition switch as well. still nothing. i am stumped and so were those mechanics. the instrument cluster brightness kind of likes to fade in and out very slightly if that means anything. thought that was weird.

thank you, you guys are the best on here. please help me figure this one out.

[SW530]

Have you manually verified the engine will still turn over?

[xaos]

Have you manually verified the engine will still turn over?
yes.

[xaos]

the fuel pump does not turn on either. im sure it's related.

[xaos]

Im honestly out of ideas..

new battery, starter checked, ews and dme/key ruled out, fuses are good, grounds are good...for giggles i replaced both fuse boxes..the one under the pass side floor and the one in the trunk and still nothing.

i dont see how a relay could cause this no crank issue. IS there a relay that could cause this?

edit: also just replaced the key ring antenna and that didnt work.

Considering theres no fuel pump kicking on, id say key...but ive already replaced all of that.

[xaos]

it has to be some kind of electrical issue? or ews. it's gotta be one of those 2; but i've already swapped everything out as. far as EWS goes and still no crank.

again i swapped the dme, ews, key, and key ring antenna from an identical year car that has all of the same part numbers even! also tried bypassing the ews and that did nothing.
also again all fuses and grounds where checked. starter checked and was good.

im totally stumped and dont want to take it to another garage to have them charge me again and not fix the problem. i called some shops already and they're like nahhhh no thanks because it's a bmw but also because i said it's already been at a shop and had the basics checked and no one could figure it out.

thank you.

[MtnGn]

Had similar problems. chek connections to battery and to starter. Ck voltage drop from ignition switch to solenoid. Listen for relay click beneath glove box. Worse case scenario, your DME is fried.

Alternative issue, crankshaft position sensor. When mine went out, it would sporadically kill ignition. Id be stuck sitting for up to 15 mins and then it would work again.

Good luck.

[xaos]

Had similar problems. chek connections to battery and to starter. Ck voltage drop from ignition switch to solenoid. Listen for relay click beneath glove box. Worse case scenario, your DME is fried.

Alternative issue, crankshaft position sensor. When mine went out, it would sporadically kill ignition. Id be stuck sitting for up to 15 mins and then it would work again.

Good luck.


thanks for the reply. the connections have been thoroughly checked already. the dme was swapped out along with the ews, key and key antenna. with these items swapped out, especially with ones from the same year car with the same part numbers, it should have atleast cranked this way. CPS was tested already, but would that really cause a no crank situation?
the iggy switch was also replaced.

[xaos]

I've confirmed there is a lingering EWS code. code number 94. i dont know why though as ive said already that the ews and dme/key were already swapped out AND the ews was bypassed. it should have atleast cranked...

[Ed CT]

Do you get any instrument panel lights at all?
I read thru quickly, but didn't see that you checked the Park/Neutral position switch to allow it to start, as you have an auto tranny.

[xaos]

Do you get any instrument panel lights at all?
I read thru quickly, but didn't see that you checked the Park/Neutral position switch to allow it to start, as you have an auto tranny.
Yes, i also checked that and yes, the cluster works fine.

[Chedley]

I've confirmed there is a lingering EWS code. code number 94. .....

Which scanner did you use to read this EWS error code 94 ? If it is INPA, can you read and post the Status (key F1 I believe) of the EWS ??
After swapping the EWS and DME (why ?), did you realign them or resynch them ??

[xaos]

Which scanner did you use to read this EWS error code 94 ? If it is INPA, can you read and post the Status (key F1 I believe) of the EWS ??
After swapping the EWS and DME (why ?), did you realign them or resynch them ??

I swapped them for two reasons. 1) i had the parts sitting there from an identical car i just parted out recently and was trying to confirm EWS issue/troubleshoot. 2) that's what i read online. if you swapped them and/or bypassed the EWS, then the car would crank but not fire. that's how i was gonna diagnose the issue and confirm that it was an EWS issue, then worry about fixing that next. i still have not heard it crank and tried literally everything.

what i have decided to do is buy a laptop, the K+Dcan cable, and download the bmw software/tools for free like INPA and DIS, etc. it has a lot of other misc fault codes for airbag stuff and such, so this laptop should pay for itself.
im currently doing research on what laptop to use and after figuring that out and picking one up, im gonna download the bmw software/tools and try to learn how to use INPA and such myself. I want to learn how to realign/resync the DME my self since i'll have the laptop, cable and software to do that. I just need to watch some tutorial videos.

[Chedley]

Well, good idea to get INPA installed on a Windows laptop.
You can get a used laptop on ebay for less than $100, and that will do for INPA purposes.
And a K+DCAN inpa cable for about $30.
Software is freely download it from "Mike's easy BMW tools" link.

Then, I'd suggest you install back the original EWS and DME modules. They are probably fine. Use INPA to read error codes, statuses, and find out why you have the crank/no-crank/no-start problems. There are many threads detailing how to debug such issues, and how to resynch or realign the dme-ews if that is warranted.

[xaos]

Well, good idea to get INPA installed on a Windows laptop.
You can get a used laptop on ebay for less than $100, and that will do for INPA purposes.
And a K+DCAN inpa cable for about $30.
Software is freely download it from "Mike's easy BMW tools" link.

Then, I'd suggest you install back the original EWS and DME modules. They are probably fine. Use INPA to read error codes, statuses, and find out why you have the crank/no-crank/no-start problems. There are many threads detailing how to debug such issues, and how to resynch or realign the dme-ews if that is warranted.

Yessir. already ordered the cable yesterday. i am currently trying to figure out what laptop to use.
i am confused though...i see people saying XP only and i see some people using windows 10 on newer fast laptops. also not sure how much HD space i'll need.

[xaos]

i ended up getting a dell D830 with XP in mint condition locally for $50. got the cable for $35 and the software is all free. i should be good now.

[xaos]

got the laptop and cable. got inpa booted up and working but that's it. that's all the cable came with was inpa and im having the hardest time trying to get the files installed for coding ( pa soft ) on windows xp for the coding. i need to be able to re align the dme and ews.

[xaos]

i didnt realize you can align them with inpa. i just tried to do that and got an error message saying the ECU was rejected. i will try with PA soft tomorrow, but im thinking now the dme is bad? anyone?

[328 Power 04]

Why are you looking to align ews to dme??

No starter actuation would be between key and ews.
Diagnose the ews module with INPA. You read only DME codes.
Post the code and description. INPA also has a good status menu in EWS module that will tell you when and why starter is ready for release.

How was the starter tested?
Time to dig into the wiring diagrams to see what is blowing your fuse.

Don't worry about PA Soft. This isn't a programming/coding/syncing issue.

[xaos]

Why are you looking to align ews to dme??

No starter actuation would be between key and ews.
Diagnose the ews module with INPA. Post the code and description. INPA also has a good status menu in EWS module that will tell you when and why starter is ready for release.

How was the starter tested?
Time to dig into the wiring diagrams to see what is blowing your fuse.

Don't worry about PA Soft. This isn't a programming/coding/syncing issue.

thank you for replying.

i wanted to align them because everything seemed to be pointing me into that direction. the ews/dme lost sync. i had nothing to lose.

I did check the ews with inpa and there was one code as i mentioned. code 148 ews 3.3 timeout. that was it.

the starter was tested 2 different ways, but they did manually jump the starter and verified it cranked the engine over.

[328 Power 04]

Code 94 in DME is for interface between DME and EWS . This would mean that the wire from DME and EWS which will communicate the ready to start signals is disconnected or not communicating.
(*unless this code is out of a different module? We need to get this statement straight)

Syncing will not do anything if that code is there. EWS and DME must communicate.

If the sync is lost, it's a different error code.

[xaos]

Code 94 in DME is for interface between DME and EWS. This would mean that the wire from DME and EWS which will communicate the ready to start signals is disconnected or not communicating.

Syncing will not do anything if that code is there. EWS and DME must communicate.

If the sync is lost, it's a different code.

huh...thanks for pointing me in the right direction. sooo....a wire going from the ews to the dme is...damaged? or? visually everything looks fine.

so youre pretty much confirming it's not an issue physically with the dme or ews? by that i mean both are probably good?

[328 Power 04]

huh...thanks for pointing me in the right direction. sooo....a wire going from the ews to the dme is...damaged? or? visually everything looks fine.

so youre pretty much confirming it's not an issue physically with the dme or ews? by that i mean both are probably good?

What codes do you currently have in DME?

[328 Power 04]

Also if you swapped an entire working set of DME/EWS/Key.. then you kind of confirmed it's not those.


DME bank 60004 pin 33 (black with purple wire) goes to pin 4 of EWS module. This is the EWS to DME interface. This is how they communicate security data.

[xaos]

What codes do you currently have in DME?

2 codes. one for lower coolant temp sensor on radiator and the ews 3.3 148 code. that's it. the only thing the code says is ews timeout.

- - - Updated - - -


Also if you swapped an entire working set of DME/EWS/Key.. then you kind of confirmed it's not those.


DME bank 60004 pin 33 (black with purple wire) goes to pin 4 of EWS module. This is the EWS to DME interface. This is how they communicate security data.

true. i guess i didnt really think about that lmao.

- - - Updated - - -


Also if you swapped an entire working set of DME/EWS/Key.. then you kind of confirmed it's not those.


DME bank 60004 pin 33 (black with purple wire) goes to pin 4 of EWS module. This is the EWS to DME interface. This is how they communicate security data.

is that the only wire to check?

[328 Power 04]

Code 148 (94 in hexadecimal) in the DME means that the DME is not getting the EWS signal via bank 60004 pin 33 (black with purple wire).

You need this to work.
This car has comfort start (one touch start) right? You will need DME to allow cranking too then. Bypassing EWS will not spin the starter.


There is a starter relay, seen in the pic. Although I don't think this is the problem when you have DME-EWS interface codes.
705942




There are 3 fuses in the automatic as well. See the wiring diagram.
Fuse 12, Fuse 37, and Fuse 114
705943

- - - Updated - - -

Fuse 114 is located under the carpet of the passenger side.

That area loves to swim.

705944

[xaos]

Code 148 (94 in hexadecimal) in the DME means that the DME is not getting the EWS signal via bank 60004 pin 33 (black with purple wire).

You need this to work.
This car has comfort start (one touch start) right? You will need DME to allow cranking too then. Bypassing EWS will not spin the starter.


There is a starter relay, seen in the pic. Although I don't think this is the problem when you have DME-EWS interface codes.
705942




There are 3 fuses in the automatic as well. See the wiring diagram.
Fuse 12, Fuse 37, and Fuse 114
705943
yes, one touch. thanks for helping. this is all helping me finally get somewhere.

unfortunately i dont understand that second photo ( but i can if you explain what that is)
is that a diagram of the first photo you added? or is that something else, like the fuse box under the hood, seat or trunk?

[328 Power 04]

The second diagram is the entire wiring diagram of the EWS module (middle long rectangle). Everything else around it is what's connected to it. Fuses, wires, etc. This would take a bit to explain, but understanding wiring diagrams is super important.

It says what wire (color and pin number) goes to where.

- - - Updated - - -

Fuse 114 is super important (*see updated previous post*). It feeds the ignition switch and the EWS. Is this the one blowing?

[xaos]

The second diagram is the entire wiring diagram of the EWS module (middle long rectangle). Everything else around it is what's connected to it. Fuses, wires, etc. This would take a bit to explain, but understanding wiring diagrams is super important.

It says what wire (color and pin number) goes to where.

- - - Updated - - -

Fuse 114 is super important (*see updated previous post*). It feeds the ignition switch and the EWS. Is this the one blowing?

ok thanks for clearing that up but.....OMG yes that is the fuse that they said kept blowing!!! dude we are getting somewhere with this now!!:)

now why the hell is it blowing ? the fusebox looks new, theres no water whatsoever and never was. the area and fusebox are super clean.

[328 Power 04]

Hi all, any help is appreciated.

I have a 2001 540 auto with no crank. i went into the store, came out and that was it. no crank, no click, nothing. i have done my research and tons of troubleshooting.

a local shop looked at it and 4 mechanics couldnt figure it out. $500 for them to check absolutely everything they could and still no luck.

Here's what they did and what i've done so far to try and figure this out. they said there was a code for the driveaway module (ews??) that's all ive got from them. they also said the 50a fuse under the pass seat would keep blowing? i have not verified this as it doesnt even make sense. ive never heard of the fuse box under the front pass seat to blow fuses unless it got soaked in water and got rusty, even then i never heard of that causing issues like this. i DO have a replacement fuse box for in the trunk and under the seat if you think replacing those would do anything at all.

the starter was checked and verified in working condition. all fuses checked. even the ones under the pass seat and trunk and under the hood obviously. i replaced the ews, key and dme from an identical car, even the part numbers were all the same. still no crank. i thought this would atleast get it to crank w.o fuel or spark??? guess not.
i by passed or jumped the ews module and still no go. i also jumped pin 6 and pin 40 together on the dme harness to try and bypass the ews and still no go. i replaced the ignition switch as well. still nothing. i am stumped and so were those mechanics. the instrument cluster brightness kind of likes to fade in and out very slightly if that means anything. thought that was weird.

thank you, you guys are the best on here. please help me figure this one out.

I'm going to go ahead and say that ignoring this information was the biggest mistake ;)

- - - Updated - - -

Start understanding wiring diagrams:

705945






Fuse 114 feeds the following with +12 V:
-ignition switch via pin 5 (is this or its harness around steering column shorting?)
-EWS via pin 2 (check wiring)
-20-pin port (diagnostic connector) pin 14


All red wires.
Popping this fuse is really bad.

[xaos]

I'm going to go ahead and say that ignoring this information was the biggest mistake ;)

- - - Updated - - -

Start understanding wiring diagrams:

705945






Fuse 114 feeds the following with +12 V:
-ignition switch via pin 5 (is this or its harness around steering column shorting?)
-EWS via pin 2 (check wiring)
-20-pin port (diagnostic connector) pin 14


All red wires.
Popping this fuse is really bad.
Ok cool. looks like this is gonna be a pain to fix.
can you elaborate on what you mean by "really bad" ?

i admit i shouldnt have ignored that lmao but i really thought dme/ews issue. my bad.

- - - Updated - - -

"Start by identifying the circuits fed by the fuse in the wiring diagram. Then identify the connectors within those circuits. Remove the fuse, and replace it with a test light connected between the terminals. Now, begin disconnecting connectors in the circuits starting at the fuse panel. When the light goes out, you have identified the circuit that is shorted. Continue down the circuit until you have isolated the shorted component."

is this what i need to do now?

[328 Power 04]

Ok cool. looks like this is gonna be a pain to fix.
can you elaborate on what you mean by "really bad" ?

Nah, nonsense. This isn't hard. We just discovered half the solution from 1000 miles away in 20 mins. (says a lot about that shop unfortunately!)


"It's really bad" because it's a huge amperage fuse (50 amp). That means something major is shorting. However, it's also the easiest to identify. Like an elephant in a room.



It could be your ignition switch, or its wires...


But to restore everything, you need to:

-find and fix the short
-replace the fuse (and hopefully it doesn't pop anymore if the above is fixed)



Keep in mind there's also a very low chance that the EWS module itself may have a short... I haven't seen this often. So when you swapped another EWS module, but didn't restore the fuse.. you didn't do anything.

*considering your EWS module communicates to INPA, it's unlikely for it to be bad.... But you can still open the casing carefully and inspect the EWS board.

[328 Power 04]

Ok cool. looks like this is gonna be a pain to fix.
can you elaborate on what you mean by "really bad" ?

i admit i shouldnt have ignored that lmao but i really thought dme/ews issue. my bad.

- - - Updated - - -

"Start by identifying the circuits fed by the fuse in the wiring diagram. Then identify the connectors within those circuits. Remove the fuse, and replace it with a test light connected between the terminals. Now, begin disconnecting connectors in the circuits starting at the fuse panel. When the light goes out, you have identified the circuit that is shorted. Continue down the circuit until you have isolated the shorted component."

is this what i need to do now?

I think a careful visual inspection and tracing of those wires and visual inspection of the ews and/or ignition switch may reveal the issue. If this red wire is stripped of its insulation and touching against anything else, you'll pop the fuse.

If something is stuck down the diag port (20-pin port) cap touching pin 14, you'll pop this fuse.


There are only 3 places and its wiring. This isn't hard.

[xaos]

Nah, nonsense. This isn't hard. We just discovered half the solution from 1000 miles away in 20 mins. (says a lot about that shop unfortunately!)


It's a huge amperage fuse (50 amp). That means something major is shorting. It's also the easiest to identify. Like an elephant in a room.



It could be your ignition switch, or its wires...


But to restore everything, you need to:

-find and fix the short
-replace the fuse (and hopefully it doesn't pop anymore if the above is fixed)



Keep in mind there's also a very low chance that the EWS module itself may have a short... I haven't seen this often. So when you swapped another EWS module, but didn't restore the fuse.. you didn't do anything.

*considering your EWS module communicates to INPA, it's unlikely for it to be bad.... But you can still open the casing carefully and inspect the EWS board.

I remember now after replacing the ews and dme and key, i did replace the fuse because they left the fuse off of the fuse box. so i did put a new one on and still no crank.
I think you are correct, we have ruled out the dme and ews/key. we are now looking for a short.
where ? i have no idea. can you elaborate a little more on where to look? the iggy switch was replaced with a good one from same year car.



also, i had a 2001 bmw e53 x5 auto with the 4.4 and the 50A fuse for the SAP pump kept blowing every time it was replaced and you started the car. i never knew what caused this. i knew it was a short somewhere, but never bothered to look into it. it had a bad battery drain as well and a couple other minor electrical gremlins. i shouldve put the 2 together.

- - - Updated - - -


thanks. im gonna go check now. if you can provide and more info on things to check. much appreciated

[328 Power 04]

Well, I gave you the location of each of the wires that Fuse 114 supplies.

Pin 5 of ignition switch (if replaced, probably not it)
Pin 2 of EWS (needs visual inspection of the module)
Pin 14 of the 20-pin diag port

All connected via red wire, leading back to fuse 114.

Now you just kinda work backwards. Visually trace the wire back a bit from each. Any chafing or burnt looking wire is highly suspect. A 50Amp fuse does not go out without a bang.

It wouldn't hurt to inspect the starter relay I mentioned earlier.





*Also regarding E53, the SAP pump itself (a simple electric motor) can short itself and pop a fuse. Most likely scenario.

[Chedley]

So, now that the problem has been isolated to that red wire from Fuse 114, can you simply yank it out and rewire ?? Replace the red wire altogether, re connecting it from Fuse 114 to the indicated pins above, and see if you can start the engine.
:devillook

[xaos]

I checked bro. i dont get it. i dont see any burning, chafing, etc. i just dont get it. i'll replace the starter relay and check all this stuff again now and probably a third time, but i honestly just dont get it. everything looks fine. maybe im just an idiot and im overlooking something. clearly it looks like we have found the problem , just have to locate the short now.
if there was a burned wire or something, would it be very subtle and barely noticeable?

[Chedley]

Maybe, can you replace that red wire from Fuse 114 and test starting the engine ?? Just to confirm the diagnostic..

[xaos]

Maybe, can you replace that red wire from Fuse 114 and test starting the engine ?? Just to confirm the diagnostic..

i believe that wire is fine. connectors going to it are very slightly loose from them removing them.


i checked the iggy switch, the wires look good and i checked the one 328 mentioned specifically. i just used the diag port under the hood and i checked it anyway and it's fine. i checked the ews wires and they look fine. i have an ENTIRE wiring harness sitting here and so i checked the stuff on that one and compared it to the one in the car now and i dont see any differences. idkkk here..it has to be me and something im overlooking? i honestly just dont get it. i checked those things...they all look good.

[328 Power 04]

So if you put a fuse 114 in, and try to crank, does the fuse pop?

If still yes, you have a short.

You should also inspect that fuse box carefully.

- - - Updated - - -

I wouldn't replace anything (including wiring) without solid proof of where it's gone bad.
I've always gotta know why.

[xaos]

So if you put a fuse 114 in, and try to crank, does the fuse pop?

If still yes, you have a short.

You should also inspect that fuse box carefully.

i mean i can replace the fuse again and try it, but i think we've confirmed there's a short, so why would it not blow again like it did the other times? i haven't done anything except inspect the wires/problem areas like you said. im starting to just get fed up with this car. i mean..it clearly doesn't want to run..

i have another identical fuse box but idk man this car doesnt want to run

[xaos]

either way, i really appreciate your time and help 328.
tomorrow ill give it another go. i might just replace that whole fuse box. i'll check the purple/black wire coming from the dme and everything else again and again. im gonna keep trying. i want to get it running, but it keeps fighting me.

[xaos]

EDIT: i replaced the fuse and it did NOT blow when i tried to start the car!!! i dont know if this is good or not, but it's progress maybe??

- - - Updated - - -


So if you put a fuse 114 in, and try to crank, does the fuse pop?

If still yes, you have a short.

You should also inspect that fuse box carefully.

- - - Updated - - -

I wouldn't replace anything (including wiring) without solid proof of where it's gone bad.
I've always gotta know why.

It did not pop this time after replacing it! still no crank, though.

[xaos]

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2344836-Car-not-starting-EWS-and-DME-sync-issues

he had the same 2 codes, even the one for the radiator temp sensor. im guessing at this point this is the problem.

[xaos]

hmmmm https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xpFWoUtKfTY

[328 Power 04]

EDIT: i replaced the fuse and it did NOT blow when i tried to start the car!!! i dont know if this is good or not, but it's progress maybe??

- - - Updated - - -



It did not pop this time after replacing it! still no crank, though.

Does the other EWS/Key/DME set start the car?

[xaos]

Does the other EWS/Key/DME set start the car?

No. i just swapped them out again for giggles and still nothing. i dont think it would ever start the car, but i thought it would cause it to at least crank. no crank, no click, nothing.

i have confirmed the fuse is no longer blowing...so that's good i guess.

but we still have the same 2 codes that that guy had in his thread and his issue was bad EWS.

EWS 148/94 and the lower rad temp sensor. no way it's a coincidence. his codes are both identical.

Im really leaning toward having the EWS coded out from this DME, but it would be a $275 gamble.

[328 Power 04]

what are the codes in the ews module?

Also, if you clear them, what comes back?

[xaos]

what are the codes in the ews module?

Also, if you clear them, what comes back?

same codes on the dme 148/94. they come back immediately. NO codes on the ews after i cleared them and i tried to start it a couple times, still no codes and no blown fuse. im not sure if these codes on the EWS mean anything cause i cleared them and they dont come back.

keep in mind i swapped the old dme, key, ews and key antenna out before reading the codes.

[xaos]

328, what say you?
I'm also gonna speak with dudmd and see if he has anything to say. im considering the EWS delete. i swear a direct quote i read from him was that if you swap the stuff i swapped and/or if you bypass the ews by jumping the 2 large wires together and it still doesn't even crank, then you have other issues.

[purplecty]

same codes on the dme 148/94. they come back immediately. NO codes on the ews after i cleared them and i tried to start it a couple times, still no codes and no blown fuse. im not sure if these codes on the EWS mean anything cause i cleared them and they dont come back.

keep in mind i swapped the old dme, key, ews and key antenna out before reading the codes.Something with this key info doesnt look correct. Key 192? Also says it has a rolling code issue?

[Chedley]

So, xaos, -->
you installed back the original EWS and DME modules and key antenna, then you tried to start the engine, the fuse did not blow. No more 148/94 errors in the DME. You read out the EWS error codes : those are the inpa screen shots you posted above, yes ?

If so, your original DME and EWS are fine. Though they may need re-initialization and realignment. And you have a bad rigged key.
Here is what you need to do:
1. Recharge the battery.
2. Re synch the EWS-DME, with INPA.
3. Get an original valid key for this car, and test again.
and report back.

[xaos]

Something with this key info doesnt look correct. Key 192? Also says it has a rolling code issue?
im gonna put the original key and dme/ews/antenna in and see if that code still sticks.

- - - Updated - - -


So, xaos, -->
you installed back the original EWS and DME modules and key antenna, then you tried to start the engine, the fuse did not blow. No more 148/94 errors in the DME. You read out the EWS error codes : those are the inpa screen shots you posted above, yes ?

If so, your original DME and EWS are fine. Though they may need re-initialization and realignment. And you have a bad rigged key.
Here is what you need to do:
1. Recharge the battery.
2. Re synch the EWS-DME, with INPA.
3. Get an original valid key for this car, and test again.
and report back.

thanks for the reply. you have it backwards, the 148 error is still in the dme, it doesn't ever go away and the EWS is issue free.
maybe it is the key, but why didnt the spare dme, key/antenna and ews at least crank the car?
im putting the originals back in and ill see if it says the key still has an issue. ive aligned itv with inpa many times. no luck.

[xaos]

i found someone local who can wipe out the ews from the dme. $250. we'll see how this goes.

[328 Power 04]

The key is not the one for that EWS, according to the EWS module

This has nothing to do with DME to EWS.

[xaos]

The key is not the one for that EWS, according to the EWS module

This has nothing to do with DME to EWS.
you are correct, my mistake.
we are currently coding out the ews from the dme. long process.
im thinking it's gonna be $250 well spent.

[xaos]

So, xaos, -->
you installed back the original EWS and DME modules and key antenna, then you tried to start the engine, the fuse did not blow. No more 148/94 errors in the DME. You read out the EWS error codes : those are the inpa screen shots you posted above, yes ?

If so, your original DME and EWS are fine. Though they may need re-initialization and realignment. And you have a bad rigged key.
Here is what you need to do:
1. Recharge the battery.
2. Re synch the EWS-DME, with INPA.
3. Get an original valid key for this car, and test again.
and report back.
even if the key was the problem, it is not possible for me to get another key. title not in my name and bmw needs proof of ownership. if i could, i would have grabbed a valet key from the dealer.

- - - Updated - - -

still waiting for the guy to finish the dme, but i have high hopes here. no more ews=car should run now.

[xaos]

the ews has been deleted from the dme and still no crank. the code is now gone from the dme but still no crank. ive decided to part the car out. enough is enough. the car doesnt want to run ever again.

[xaos]

2 hours later and the cars already almost down to the frame. only thing left is the engine/trans which im doing now. oh well. RIP.

[Chedley]

Really....
I'd be interested in this car if you are going to sell it or part it out. How many miles on its engine and tranny ?
IMHO : Truth is you bricked it with all that battery/fuses/key/ews/dme manipulations and what not...!!

[xaos]

Really....
I'd be interested in this car if you are going to sell it or part it out. How many miles on its engine and tranny ?
IMHO : Truth is you bricked it with all that battery/fuses/key/ews/dme manipulations and what not...!!
i dont think it was bricked. the issue was the same from day one. it gets bricked from someone who tries to tune it or do a ews delete or something like that who has NO idea what theyre doing. this kid who deleted the ews has done it over 100 times for people and is a software engineer. the ews was successfully coded out.
again, the car is literally a shell/frame now. ive completely stripped it down to nothing and im having it removed tomorrow. it was not worth any more time or money. it had 217k, was a smokers car, had rust all over the rear, etc.
i sold the cats today for $800, so i was able to immediately get some money back from it.