View Full Version : Alternator cooling tube screw clamp
FireTumbleweed
06-28-2022, 04:40 PM
Real OEM shows a worm drive clamp where the back cover of the alternator meets the cooling tube #7 in
http://207.244.103.173/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DT53-USA-04-2002-E39-BMW-530i&diagId=12_2299.
Since I like to keep everything original and mine did not have one I ordered it. 59-66 mm. There no way it fits. I've never taken it off, but occasionally I've had paid work done on the car so you never know if someone else removed it. None of the pics I've found online show it on my application. Is this another Real OEM burp?
Mine looks like this (not my pic, grabbed off this site).
705840
My connection just sort of snaps together. Anyone ever seen one on the connection?
jicaino
06-29-2022, 09:03 AM
all the ones I've seen came with no clamp whatsoever in that location.
BimmrMeUpSnotty
06-29-2022, 11:08 AM
More important, you should pull it loose to be amazed at how much debris gets caught up in there. Every time I open them up, it’s always full of leaves, small gravel rocks, and at least 4 to 5 cigarette butts. If you feel you need a clamp on there, just get one that is big enough to go on it.
FireTumbleweed
06-29-2022, 05:29 PM
Thanks jcaino, I think this is goof in Real OEM. Through this journey of replacing the clutch, cooling pipes, oil pan gasket and a number of other things, I've found while pretty good on most stuff, Real OEM has a number of errors on the really small parts (still probably less than 10% of the small parts).
The alternator had been removed and everything was detailed prior to installation. I realize I could hack some clamp in there if I wanted to, but prefer to do things correctly, thus the question I asked of whether Real OEM was leading me astray.
jicaino
06-29-2022, 06:55 PM
Thanks jcaino, I think this is goof in Real OEM. Through this journey of replacing the clutch, cooling pipes, oil pan gasket and a number of other things, I've found while pretty good on most stuff, Real OEM has a number of errors on the really small parts (still probably less than 10% of the small parts).
The alternator had been removed and everything was detailed prior to installation. I realize I could hack some clamp in there if I wanted to, but prefer to do things correctly, thus the question I asked of whether Real OEM was leading me astray.
I've ran into some mishaps like those minor errors too and they throw you on a loop
StephenVA
06-29-2022, 07:26 PM
No clamp as there is only air pressure from the front of the car coming through that hose.
As Snotty said, remove clean all the crap from the back of the alternator and reassemble after a good cleaning to include the line all the way up front.
I have found paper, bird parts, rodent nut shells, and 1/2 a pound of leaves in these tubes
ross1
07-01-2022, 09:43 AM
Some older models used a clamp. The drawings and parts lists aren't always spot on.
StephenVA
07-03-2022, 11:29 AM
There is a post on this forum showing the back of an air cooled alternator totally blocked with dead bugs in various stages of decomposition. Alt over heated and toasted.
wash out with dawn dish detergent and a bottle brush or if you own one a dryer duct cleaning tool
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