F30 N55 starting and dying right after

[Khayame39]

Hello Everyone I have recently been running into an issue where after i start my car it runs rough for a second or two and then shuts off.

this started happening after doing some maintenance while keeping the car in a garage over winter. To catch you guys up on everything, I have replaced the OFHG and the housing itself,
replaced intake manifold seals while I was in there anyway, and Replaced Charge Pipe due to it being cracked. after bleeding the coolant and priming Injectors, I tried starting it and it ran rough for 2 seconds before shutting off.
After this happening we cleaned the MAF, all spark plugs and ignition coils, as well as two new Fuel Injectors, but to avail.
our next course of action of course to scan it and trying to start it with the MAF off and if that does not work, We will probably take off the manifold again and see if there is any connections that are lose if not completely disconnected.
I have been searching forums and still am, and saw it could be a dirty throttle body, bad fuel or an old battery. I am an open to any recommendations on what I should do next or if there is something else I should look into.

Thank you for reading and if you have any idea what may be going on or if it has happened to you, Please, Feel free to chime in, it will be greatly appreciated!

Ill post a YouTube link of what is happening during the start.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SfMOmaa5KKM

[328 Power 04]

Scanning for errors should be first to keep you from guesswork.

Cleaning the MAF does nothing; I highly suspect this has something to do with the work that was just done.

If you get a diagnostic scan with a BMW oriented scanner that reads manufacturer codes, post here and we can let you know what may be going on.

[Khayame39]

Thank you for the advice! I will post the codes in here as soon as I'm able to scan it.

[Khayame39]

Okay so I got the codes and they are
11A031 Low pressure fuel system, electric fuel pump: Pressure too low
121531 Charging Pressure Sensor, Plausibility: pressure before throttle valve too low
120408 Charging Pressure Control: Switch off as consequence
11AC02 Fuel High Pressure, Plausibility, Cold Start: Pressure Too Low
102002 Air Mass Plausibility, Air Mass Too Low
101F02 Air Mass System, Plausibility: Calculated Air Masses In the Air Intake System not Plausible
11A032 Low Pressure Fuel System, Electric Fuel Pump, Pressure Too Low When Fuel Tank Level is Low
121533 Charging Pressure Sensor, Plausibility: Pressure Before Throttle Valve Too Low At Engine Standstill

We changed the Battery and registered it to the car and still no change also, so that didnt do anything, im going to research these codes later as well, Thank you again

[328 Power 04]

Ok, so there may be some old stored codes or two separate problems.

First, I'd make sure that you actually do have fuel pressure and that the in tank fuel pump is working. This is a priority, since it can cause no starts. You can use diagnostic programs to visualize live fuel flow/pressure, and activate the pump as needed.

The other codes, for low mass airflow or low boost pressure, those may mean you have a large boost leak. This often needs visual inspection + a smoke test of the intake tract. However, I would think this is easy to see if you follow the intake tract carefully. Often those charge pipes break or are disconnected.


A battery exchange would make no difference to this.

[Khayame39]

Thanks for the response and sorry for the late reply.

We ended up taking off the manifold and charge pipe and reseating them both aswell as cleaning the ports of the manifold, and that did nothing, i then tightened the nut on cylinder 6 for the fuel rail because i noticed a little bit of leakage.
So that would mean that I have fuel pressure? Im not completely sure. I dont know what else it could be, When putting the car into position 2 for the ignition you can here the LPFP engaging very quietly, so im thinking it might not be a fuel issue.
We pulled the spark plugs and noticed that they were really dark as well. If you have any more insight to help me out it would be much appreciated. were going to try replacing the boost control valve now, and if that does not work then we will probably just take it to a shop
and have them inspect and diagnose it but we would rather not have to do that.

[Khayame39]

Shop has had it for around 2 weeks, getting it back today, they said the problem was there was a file missing on the ecu.
He said electrical ecu management file, haven’t heard of this happening to anybody in all the forums I have searched, but if someone is having the same symptoms as me, and nothing else is working, this could be it

[Khayame39]

So incase anybody else is having this problem, (you probably wont) there was just one other incident at the shop the car was at, a 2016 340i that went to get his Idrive updated, and after that the same thing happened to him, they fixed the files for a day on my car and then the files deleted itself again so now im waiting on a new ECU. If anyone is having this issue and has tried everything, this could be a problem that you may face. With that out of the way, I will Update this thread when the car is back to make sure everything is good!

[pshovest]

Very interesting. Thanks for the followup.