Rebuild a e36M motor complete

[mrbeverlyhills]

Just wondering, after all the posts, I haven't come across a full engine rebuild and associated costs. Mine is fine but I see a lot of trepidation from buyers looking at the higher mileage cars; knowing there is a big difference in geography, if anyone has gone whole hog and rebuilt their lump. All new internals, machine work (any benefit in porting the heads?) labor etc. I realize there is a big difference between Braymond and the local non specific speed shop but any input on a rough price would be of interest. I am looking at a high mileage car with no records, it drives fantastically well but interested in a worst case scenario where my daughter misses a money shift and we have to pick up the pieces.

Thanks in advance.

[blckstrm]

Just keep in mind that worst case is a new engine.

Worst is WORST case - rod through the cylinder wall, valves broken, pistons toasted, crank and cam surfaces scratched - i.e. nothing salvageable.

You can add up the cost of the components you want, and you don't need a machine shop for much depending on the condition of the block you find. But then again, you'll probably find a whole motor, not just a block. And THEN you'll have to decide whether to trust them and just install it vs rebuilding it.

You could probably do a rebuild on a budget with used parts for under $1000 if you did a lot of homework and were careful.

You could also spend $20,000+ if you want.

It really depends on what you want and how much work you want to do.

[NoLastName]

I had the S50 engine in my track car rebuilt a few years ago (I think it was 2015). Instead of paying someone to do the machine work and final assembly I had the short block and head done separately. I did the final assembly.

If I remember correctly the bottom end machine work + bearings + rings + decking was around $1700. That's re-using stock pistons and rods. The cylinders were in good shape and only needed honing. I paid for extras like align honing the main bearing bores, balancing the rotating assembly, and torque plate honing the cylinders. Those extra details turned out to be awesome because the engine is still putting down great numbers years later. It pulls hard compared to the tired S52 in my street car. ARP hardware including head studs added around $550. Torque plate rental from VAC was $150 or so.

The valve job and head resurfacing was $350ish - reusing the stock valves and no port work. Port work would add a lot to that. Aftermarket valve springs added $700 or so. New hydraulic lifters (required because I changed cams) added another $400. If you're not changing cams you might get away with cleaning/refreshing the old lifters.

Other hardware to make an engine "new" really adds up. Seals, oil pump, water pump, timing chain and gears/rails, miscellaneous dowels and hardware, sensors, etc.. Add another $1000+. Then you probably want to replace your radiator and all the hoses, engine and transmission mounts, maybe the clutch if it needs it. It's easy get carried away if you let yourself.

If you do a stock rebuild and handle all labor except machine work yourself, and replace just the bare minimum parts I think you might be able to get away with $2-3K. A money shift, or paying labor for engine removal and installation would probably take you to $5K and beyond.

[sirhodjibob]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/154523758645?hash=item23fa557035:g:xs0AAOSw1MNdnsF v

$5k for reman engine.

I take solace though the reason you do not see many rebuilds on here is that these are incredibly durable engines.

[aeronaut]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/154523758645?hash=item23fa557035:g:xs0AAOSw1MNdnsF v

$5k for reman engine.

I take solace though the reason you do not see many rebuilds on here is that these are incredibly durable engines.

Buying a rebuilt engine from an ebay seller that can't seem to write an add using reasonable grammar, or list the work done in a way that doesn't look like a bad craigslist add, makes me think, NOPE.

[Johal E32]

Buying a rebuilt engine from an ebay seller that can't seem to write an add using reasonable grammar, or list the work done in a way that doesn't look like a bad craigslist add, makes me think, NOPE.

Agreed. It appears to be a Victor Reinz head gasket in the listing photos..Yikes. It looks like they reuse the pistons as well. Which could be fine, but who knows if they used the right tools to measure the cylinder walls? If the engine is really tired and has a lot of piston ring blow-by, you may need to overbore the pistons as the cylinder walls can ever so slightly "oval" out over time.

A set of new Mahle Power-Pak pistons are under a grand anyways, might as well change them while you are in there..

The way NoLastName did their engine rebuild sounds great. You need to make sure the machinists uses the proper torque plate. No advantage to port or polish the cylinder head unless you plan on doing headers, ITB's, high duration cams etc..

Worst case your daughter money shifts the car on the street and you likely need 12 new intake valves. Just do a top end refresh and move on. If it happens on the track.. she may ruin a piston or send a rod through the block.

[zellamay]

Buying a rebuilt engine from an ebay seller that can't seem to write an add using reasonable grammar, or list the work done in a way that doesn't look like a bad craigslist add, makes me think, NOPE.

Yes, I wouldn't buy an engine on Ebay if the seller spelled and wrote perfectly, and had a PhD in engine building. After doing some research with people I trusted, I bought a complete-rebuild nissan engine from Kyle at IPP in Texas, many years ago. First rate guy, and the engine was great as far as I could tell. As I remember, it was still $4k, and that was around 2007 .

[mrbeverlyhills]

Some interesting rebuild concepts, I wonder, how much to just rebuild an old engine using factory parts? Let's say the block is worth rebuilding (it is numbered as are the body panels), I don't want to do anything myself, I would rather have it done professionally, tools and I are mortal enemies.

I just rebuild a Porsche 964 3.6 motor and it was like a 3 month colonoscopy crossed with the teeth drilling from Marathon Man. Happy to share to costs but it is the same as buying a good condition e36 M and a honeymoon in Bora Bora. And a VIP weekend in Vegas.

Just wondering, a rebuilt engine from a good indy: total for all parts and machine work plus R&R.

[blckstrm]

Yes, I wouldn't buy an engine on Ebay if the seller spelled and wrote perfectly, and had a PhD in engine building. After doing some research with people I trusted, I bought a complete-rebuild nissan engine from Kyle at IPP in Texas, many years ago. First rate guy, and the engine was great as far as I could tell. As I remember, it was still $4k, and that was around 2007 .

Haha - same here. I'd buy from Bret if I could afford it. I'd most likely do something like NoLastName and do everything but the actual machining myself, maybe upgrade some stuff along the way or bump compression a little.

But it still feels healthy, even at 255k. And especially after the 6 speed swap almost everyone (my two kids, the odd friend I let drive the car) grabs third instead of first, not vice versa, so the odds of a money shift are thankfully fairly low.

I'd actually really like to do it, but I can't hardly handle not driving for a week, let alone the month or two this would take to do it right...

...

OP - like I said at first, it's going to depend on that you want done. You'll probably have to call around in your own local area and ask what it would cost, and they'll probably (or at least should) quiz you on what exactly you want done.

This seems like a lot of effort for a hypothetical "I might have to rebuild someday..."

I'll tell you right now the answer today is 50% more than if you'd asked 18 months ago.

[importbanana]

Just wondering, a rebuilt engine from a good indy: total for all parts and machine work plus R&R.

Why don't simply you ask shops in your area?

[mrbeverlyhills]

^^^ Good question. Because "We have to see it". "Depends".

I am asking guys who have gone down this road what they may have paid.
Plus I am guessing I may not be far behind.

[notMpowered]

I'd suggest a used s52 over a rebuilt motor. Look for crashed M roadsters. They tend to be super low milage, at least up here in Canada as driving one year round isn't ideal lol. I got a 40k KM s52 for $2500.
As said, these motors are stout. There's a reason there are plenty of 200k e36 m3s out there, and it's not usually because people took great care of them.

[NoLastName]

If you're looking for wild guesses I'd say a shop will probably charge at least $5-6K+ for the engine rebuild and $2K for labor to remove and reinstall. Just tell your daughter not to money shift :)

[hakentt]

I haven't come across a full engine rebuild and associated costs.

Thanks in advance.
Even if you found a post where someone described all of the costs, it would be irrelevant today with all the inflation that is going on.

[mrbeverlyhills]

Thanks for all the advice, well received.

the car runs beautifully at 186k miles but it is a 10 owner theft recovery. All vin tags though and rust free/no accident New Mexico car so it isn't going to depreciate. My wife is British and we plan on spending some more time there, I was going to ship the car over there. So the thinking was maybe rebuild the motor here before that as being cheaper; the girls are very careful even at the track so I malign them with the money shift crack. I blame the wine.

The other option was to buy a Euro e36M there but they have appreciated same as here and are very very rusty. A nice e46m can be had for less than here though so maybe another option.

I was just curious because the 964 rebuild was a effing chore, if the same applied to the e36.

[blckstrm]

You're worried about your car at 186k? I thought you said it was high mileage?

Haha - that's not high mileage. It will be fine for a long, long time. I've got 255k and still have a healthy motor / good oil reports. I think you're overthinking this. A lot. As good as I think my M3 is, they're not bringing air cooled 911 money yet (and that goes for the parts, too). Now, an S14... maybe. But notMpowered had good advice.

If you're going to do anything - especially going over there - buy an S50B32 and bring it back with you.

(By the way, they haven't appreciated over there. They never depreciated in the first place.)

[importbanana]

buy an S50B32 and bring it back with you.

Forget it. 4-8k euros for a usable engine. Condition unknown. Sitting on a wooden pallet in some fat cigarette smoking polish mans backyard shed. That's how that works over there.

In europe if you want to buy used old BMW parts from a private party, you'll be dealing with lots of shady people. I've been there trying a similar thing.
People generally refuse compression tests claiming you could damage the engine. Would you hand such a guy 5k euros in cash for an engine? That's 6k USD. Just walk away from that you say? You'll walk away from every engine then, that's how people are. They rather sell to another fat smelly backyard shed guy. 6-10k with shipping. Not rebuilt. Imagine shipping that to the US. All the costs. Tons of unique parts on an euro 3.2 m3. If you just swap the engine alone you'll need many parts typically not available (or very expensive) in North America and you won't be able to think of all of them beforehand to bring them with you.

If at all, get a complete euro M3.

[blckstrm]

Forget it. 4-8k euros for a usable engine. Condition unknown. Sitting on a wooden pallet in some fat cigarette smoking polish mans backyard shed. That's how that works over there.

In europe if you want to buy used old BMW parts from a private party, you'll be dealing with lots of shady people. I've been there trying a similar thing.
People generally refuse compression tests claiming you could damage the engine. Would you hand such a guy 5k euros in cash for an engine? That's 6k USD. Just walk away from that you say? You'll walk away from every engine then, that's how people are. They rather sell to another fat smelly backyard shed guy. 6-10k with shipping. Not rebuilt. Imagine shipping that to the US. All the costs. Tons of unique parts on an euro 3.2 m3. If you just swap the engine alone you'll need many parts typically not available (or very expensive) in North America and you won't be able to think of all of them beforehand to bring them with you.

If at all, get a complete euro M3.

He's discussing shipping his car over there and back again out buying a euro car and bringing it home. Just take your car and do the engine replacement while it's over there if you're going to replace it either way. I'd rather find out I have to rebuild an S50B32 than an S52. I doubt the rebuild parts are much different in cost (if they're different at all).

And in any case that works out less than buying a whole (rusty) euro car...

[samy01]

And you'll end up with a Frankenstein car. A true euro m3 is different in many other aspects besides engine and transmission. You will have to keep it or bring it to North America then, there's a market for that. In europe people won't touch such a car with a stick because it's just a swapped car. You likely won't get back what you invested here.

[notMpowered]

And you'll end up with a Frankenstein car. A true euro m3 is different in many other aspects besides engine and transmission. You will have to keep it or bring it to North America then, there's a market for that. In europe people won't touch such a car with a stick because it's just a swapped car. You likely won't get back what you invested here.
The only difference besides the drivetrain is a $300 set of front brake rotors and headlights. Hardly "many other aspects."

[samy01]

The only difference besides the drivetrain is a $300 set of front brake rotors and headlights. Hardly "many other aspects."

These are not the only things that separate a non-m from an Euro 3.2 m3.

[notMpowered]

We are talking about a North American spec m3 to a euro spec m3.

[sirhodjibob]

Don’t forget the warning triangle in the trunk!!!

[mrbeverlyhills]

I wasn't going to source a Euro M motor, I would buy a complete car, but they are most of them pretty rusty. And expensive. By the time you source all the parts and add labor you don't gain all that much and you wreck the value of the US car.
I do think I've seen that Polish guy though, sitting in a cluttered garage smoking like a lab beagle........
There isn't much difference between a US and EU car after we in the US have made some performance upgrades, to me in my 1 driving experience, the biggest difference was the 6 speed in the EU and the final drive. Handling wise I didn't find any difference, you can definitely feel the EU car come on the cams but once you hit traffic, the torque makes the US car a more pleasant car to drive casually.

[blckstrm]

I wasn't going to source a Euro M motor, I would buy a complete car, but they are most of them pretty rusty. And expensive. By the time you source all the parts and add labor you don't gain all that much and you wreck the value of the US car.
I do think I've seen that Polish guy though, sitting in a cluttered garage smoking like a lab beagle........
There isn't much difference between a US and EU car after we in the US have made some performance upgrades, to me in my 1 driving experience, the biggest difference was the 6 speed in the EU and the final drive. Handling wise I didn't find any difference, you can definitely feel the EU car come on the cams but once you hit traffic, the torque makes the US car a more pleasant car to drive casually.

I'd think you'd be looking at a continental car rather than a RHD car, and I would think those would be less prone to rust?

Though I may disagree that an S50 swap would wreck the value of a US car, I don't know that you'd come out ahead from a strictly financial perspective. Though you'd need to do the tranny too, while that would be a lot easier there than here a newer trans like a GS6 will feel WAY better and would probably be a better choice if the motor wasn't the main driver behind the work. And that wouldn't necessarily be any easier there than here.

From a benefit perspective, I'd guess half of us have a diff swap already, upgraded brakes, and Euro headlights... and maybe 10% have a tranny swap.

I'll also admit that having a Frankenstein car requires a little more care and feeding than a stock car - which you may or may not be up for.

More to the point - if you've got all this at hand, the trouble and expense of getting a rusty Euro car here may not be worth the headache.

[samy01]

We are talking about a North American spec m3 to a euro spec m3.

My bad.



but they are most of them pretty rusty

I don't know about UK, but continental europe isn't extra rusty, as far as I can tell. Yes of course, there's places like poland which can have cold winters which you could compare to the US north, but there's also places like south spain that you could compare to california climate.

What matters more than geography is how the owner maintained his car. I've seen almost rust free e36 here. Depends on the owner.


I'd think you'd be looking at a continental car rather than a RHD car

If he's going to live in the UK, buying a continental car and bringing it to the UK would mean importing. It is already enough complicated across european union member countries borders, but now that UK isn't part of the european union I think i hasn't become an easier process, or less expensive.

[blckstrm]

If he's going to live in the UK, buying a continental car and bringing it to the UK would mean importing. It is already enough complicated across european union member countries borders, but now that UK isn't part of the european union I think i hasn't become an easier process, or less expensive.

I guess I assumed he'd buy it to keep and bring it home once they returned to the states. But I reviewed the thread and he never actually says that. So yeah...

Also, just be careful if you DO buy an M3 over there. I have seen several US S52 motors installed in Euro cars when browsing for Euro M3s. They're usually listed for $8-10k less than a Euro car ($15k vs $25k roughly), and they're usually either track cars or at least dual use cars. I don't know quite what to make of that. I can think of justifications for it, but it seems like importing from the US would be a pain. I also recognize the parts-bin nature of an S52 and have wondered if they were just making an S52 out of an M52, but the cars I had looked at were actual M3s. If they didn't specifically call it out as being imported I didn't go check the VIN and see, though some of them had km-only clusters, so it seemed like those at least weren't US imports. Though I will say that there were / are also a surprising number of US cars for sale over there - I checked Mobile.de just now and 14 of the 90 cars currently for sale are US cars or have US motors (I did not go through all of them, just filtered to get a rough count).

So make sure you're getting a true Euro car!

Also judging from the mileage of most of those cars, OP's 186k would actually be better off than a large number of the cars for sale.

[Braymond141]

There are no fake Euro cars. The S52 you are seeing are NA-Spec cars.

[2005 BIMM3R]

I had my 99 S52 with 190k rebuilt a few years ago and I'll estimate $7,500. I pulled the motor and delivered it to the machine shop (very experienced with BMW engines and uses the torque plate for honing as well as a special machine for the head) with new Mahle pistons/rings, new BMW valves, springs, retainers, seals, oil squirters, freeze plugs, and bearings. They did all the machining on the block and head and assembled the short block and head. I assembled the rest of the motor. The lifters are new and I can't remember the brand but know they are OEM. New BMW timing chain, oil pump chain, sprockets, oil pump rebuild kit, complete engine gasket set, coils, and plugs. Vanos was rebuilt with a Dr. Vanos kit. The only used items I put back in the motor were the cams/trays trays, balancer, the injectors were serviced, and it has the same throttle body and MAF sensor. I want to get Schrick cams and at the time they were on some long ass back order timeframe. The car was apart for about four years because I redid the entire drivetrain also - minus the trans because they are not serviceable and a reman one is insanely expensive. Got everything back together, pulled the fuel pump fuse, turned it over a few times to build oil pressure, replaced the fuse and started the car. I kid you not, it started as if I parked it there the night before - no check engine light or any other issue. I was absolutely amazed. Runs as good as I ever remember. Love driving it and firms my belief this is one of the best built cars ever. May not be the fastest - but it's definitely one of the most fun.

I wish I knew how to post pics - advice welcomed.

Re using new pistons - A very experienced engine builder told me they are essential because the ring grooves wear out - they become wider.

One of the things I did before putting the pan on was prime the oil pump. With the engine on the stand and upside down, I poured oil in the pickup tube and spun the pump with my drill. Makes a mess on the floor but at least you know there is oil in the system.

Hope this helps.

Brent

[samy01]

surprising number of US cars for sale over there

Do never ever buy a used car in europe that was imported from the US when the same model was also originally sold in the EU. 95% of the time the only reason they do it is because they import heavily damaged cars for cheap from the US and fix them cheaply in baltic countries and then try to sell them to europeans in the EU at full price while trying to hide the problems from the buyer.

[notMpowered]

Yeah I have heard of lots of peoples write offs from Canada end up fixed and in Europe.

[mcw323is]

Has anyone here used Metric Mechanic (seemed to be higher in price that the ranges here)? Or for that matter - is Bavarian Engine Exchange still a no-go?

I think I just need new lifters and would do CAMS at the same time, so if anyone knows anything about the labor on that :)

[Johal E32]

Has anyone here used Metric Mechanic (seemed to be higher in price that the ranges here)? Or for that matter - is Bavarian Engine Exchange still a no-go?

I think I just need new lifters and would do CAMS at the same time, so if anyone knows anything about the labor on that :)

I had an old 7 series (733i) with a Metric Mechanic motor. The car was originally a 3.2 Liter but it had their "3.9L" stroker kit (which was actually a 3.8L). Very impressive amount of torque and the stroker engine was very healthy 100K miles later. With that being said, I would certainly explore other options before shelling out the big bucks for a Metric Mechanic engine. I'm sure there is a competent machinist in your area that is well versed with BMW straight 6's.

[NoLastName]

Re using new pistons - A very experienced engine builder told me they are essential because the ring grooves wear out - they become wider.

A good engine builder will measure ring grooves and replace the pistons if they're worn beyond spec - but I don't think it's mandatory to replace pistons if they're not worn. My S50 puts down 259hp with 26 year old, 170K mile stock pistons.



I'm sure there is a competent machinist in your area that is well versed with BMW straight 6's.

I'd say they don't even need to be well versed in BMW inline 6s specifically. Most machinists work on a wide range of engine types daily and the principles are similar. The machinist who did my work specializes in air cooled VW engines for offroad racing. He had tons of other engines around the shop too - all different brands and applications that he handles for other repair shops that farm out their machine work. I told him the goals for my engine and he built in the clearances accordingly. I think overall experience is more important than familiarity with a specific engine brand.

[aeronaut]

Has anyone here used Metric Mechanic (seemed to be higher in price that the ranges here)? Or for that matter - is Bavarian Engine Exchange still a no-go?

I think I just need new lifters and would do CAMS at the same time, so if anyone knows anything about the labor on that :)

If just lifters and new cams, a machine shop is not needed. Unless, you want the head removed, inspected, and refreshed.

- - - Updated - - -


A good engine builder will measure ring grooves and replace the pistons if they're worn beyond spec - but I don't think it's mandatory to replace pistons if they're not worn. My S50 puts down 259hp with 26 year old, 170K mile stock pistons.

I'd say they don't even need to be well versed in BMW inline 6s specifically. Most machinists work on a wide range of engine types daily and the principles are similar. The machinist who did my work specializes in air cooled VW engines for offroad racing. He had tons of other engines around the shop too - all different brands and applications that he handles for other repair shops that farm out their machine work. I told him the goals for my engine and he built in the clearances accordingly. I think overall experience is more important than familiarity with a specific engine brand.

I'm currently in this dilemma, engine out, head will come off, I have all winter. Do I touch the pistons/rings? :)
One well respected BMW race engine builder (Mino of Achilles) told me, if compressions and leak-down look good, do not remove the pistons.
But I also want an engine that I won't have to touch 2 years from now.

[blckstrm]

If just lifters and new cams, a machine shop is not needed. Unless, you want the head removed, inspected, and refreshed.

- - - Updated - - -



I'm currently in this dilemma, engine out, head will come off, I have all winter. Do I touch the pistons/rings? :)
One well respected BMW race engine builder (Mino of Achilles) told me, if compressions and leak-down look good, do not remove the pistons.
But I also want an engine that I won't have to touch 2 years from now.

Sorry guys - I'm at 255k and the car feels no different than it did at 16Xk miles when I put the 3.38 in. Would I notice it getting 1% slower per year? Probably not. Would I notice if it no longer had enough power to get sideways at my favorite corners? Totally.

It's using no more oil than it always has, not smoking, oil reports all look about the same, sometimes better if I do a shorter run. Fuel trims and other data is relatively consistent.

There are ample tools to monitor your engine's health without pulling a piston and checking the ring grooves, but it takes enough foresight to do it before it matters.

[mrbeverlyhills]

Thank you very much, this is great info.
I think the biggest aha for me in rebuilding my 964 was that is drove so fantastically well, I couldn't imagine touching the motor (at 163k miles). But the leaks were getting serious and in serious places, a fire hazard to the point I was carrying two extinguishers.

My point is with German engineering, a decent running M3 while a great car, high mileage, runs like it was a baby isn't always true. The 964 rebuilt is a different car compared to pre rebuild and I think a lot of us are taken in by how well our M3s run, never having driven them when new. I didn't realize the 964 had lost a step until it was rebuilt.

As some have written here, 225k and runs like new, may be wishful thinking and as others have said "I don't want to touch it again in 2 years". For me I would want to go all the way, I have 2 daughters neither of which will turn a wrench-let's hope they marry well! On the 964, the pistons and cylinders measured right on the number but no safety margin so I went with new Mahles. There were screams form the peanut gallery on Rennlist arguing against and for but in the end I went with the builder's advice, a crew chief for an indy Porsche IMSA team. If something is marginal, I would replace it or your heirs will.

The most expensive part the Germans make is called "While You Are in There".

Just so we all feel better about one day rebuilding our M3 motors, anyone care to hazard a guess what the 964 was all said and done?

[NoLastName]

just so we all feel better about one day rebuilding our m3 motors, anyone care to hazard a guess what the 964 was all said and done?

$20k?

[mrbeverlyhills]

That is a VERY good guess and the number most often quoted by engine builders. A lot depends on what they find when they get in there and doesn't include wear items like P&Cs, oil pump and the clutch that you should really do once the motor is on the stand. Hardly any cranks are bad and you can regrind the cams, sometimes studs are pulled and need new, mine were fine but again howls of protest from the peanut gallery about going with new.

[jaysonx]

Just so we all feel better about one day rebuilding our M3 motors, anyone care to hazard a guess what the 964 was all said and done?

Only context I have is 2-3 years ago my buddy had nearly $40k into his 964 Turbo rebuild at Speedsport in CT (they were not done, and I stopped asking). Well worth the investment, but classic Porsche ownership is not for the faint of heart! You could buy all OEM all day long on our cars and it still looks like a bargain in comparison.

[mcw323is]

If it’s of any use to anyone, I obsessively look at peoples receipts on bringatrailer if they post them and there’s an e36 M3 4-door that just went live recently and his rebuild (top and bottom) totaled $7000 +\- with some upgrades. He showed labor for removal/replacement, but may have done some of the other assembly himself, hard to tell.

[mrbeverlyhills]

^^^ jeez, I am soooo thankful I am not the only anal retentive auditing Work Orders on BAT. I was very worried about myself for a while.

[RBNetEngr]

^^^ jeez, I am soooo thankful I am not the only anal retentive auditing Work Orders on BAT. I was very worried about myself for a while.

Or, maybe there are just two of you…

I’d still be worried.

LOL


-rb

[mrbeverlyhills]

That's funny, at least I have company! Just freaked that a rebuilt motor for a e36m is so reasonable, I keep asking over and over getting the same answer; does not compute.

[pbonsalb]

964 is less common than USA E36 M3. I think
It is more rare than Euro M3. Rare car, and older than the M3 so it was more ahead of its time. I remember wanting one or a 944 Turbo. In hindsight I am more a turbo person. But could not afford one back then and don’t want an expensive antique toy today (have a built motor turbo E36 M3 and am restoring a 75 2002).

[RRSperry]

Just for information I have a good friend that had his '76 2002 restored two years ago at Ray Korman's shop in NC.. The engine rebuild was about $9,000. For an M10? lol... I think he spent over $50K on that car... It looks brand new..(still drives/rides like crap and I can't/don't want to figure out why). When I restored a 75 02 in 1989, I spent about $20k on it.. (great car that I sold for pennies on the dollar when I went racing). I sent the unibody to a bodyshop and basically rebuilt everything myself. The engine parts were about $3K. bearings, seals... Cam, 10.5:1 pistons, Stahl headers, Weber, new interior, FloFit seats...

Anyway.. I think you could get away with about $3K if you can reuse the internals and don't go crazy with the "while I'm in there" spending... (not counting new flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, to bearing, pivot pin, and arm... which you should do just because)

[mcw323is]

^^^ jeez, I am soooo thankful I am not the only anal retentive auditing Work Orders on BAT. I was very worried about myself for a while.

Ha! I call it "market research" so that when I talk to actual shops in my area at least I have some sort of context :)