BMW 328i 2007 Staggers and shakes when driving multiple codes

[jollyroger49]

I have a 2007 328i BMW, when I drive the car it staggers and shakes after about 10 mins of me starting it up in the beginning of the day. When it shakes and staggers I have to restart the car in order for it to stop. The SES (service engine soon) light will flicker on and off and then finally stay on after until I restart the car.

With this problem I have taken it to BMW to get a hour and a half of diagnosis and they told me that the car was just having misfires to change the spark plugs which I have already previously done and I have been still getting multiple error codes such as P0300 multiple random cylinder misfires and cylinder 2,3,1,5,6 misfires from codes P0302, P0303, P0301, P0305 and P0306 I did not start receiving this problem and these error codes until I had the crankshaft position sensor replaced by my mechanic.

I have also gotten error codes from autozon saying:

transmission fluid deteriorated 22414

2cA6 Lambda sensor heating before Cat. Function 11430

2cA7 Lambda sensor heating before Cat. 2 Function 11431

29D9 misfire at low tank fill level




I have done a transmission fluid flush and changed the spark plugs and ignition coils to OEM stock parts to fix the problem but it still persists to stagger when I accelerate and when I turn the car off and restart it, it seems to drive fine but will misfire sometimes. I believe it could be electrical or a ECU sensor or computer problem or maybe a steering angle sensor problem but I am unsure of what exactly it could be really I would love you help and input on how to rectify the problem thank you.

[154e90]

How soon after the crank sensor replacement did you start getting these issues? Why was the crank sensor replaced? Are you saying the car is fine when it is cold and not once it warms up?

You will probably need your own scan tool to figure this out. Maybe this is an o2 sensor or sensor wiring issue that is causing closed loop issues. How does it run under heavy throttle?

Maybe its a crappy crank sensor or an improper air gap from a sloppy installation.

I doubt the dealership did any real diagnostics for you. Zero chance they hooked an oscilloscope up to test their theory of bad coils/plugs. The tech just gave you the standard misfire guess and got paid an hour and a half for doing nothing but filling your washer fluid tank.

[jollyroger49]

I started getting these issues maybe 1 hour after the crankshaft sensor was replaced, it was replaced because the car would stall and shut off while idle. Its fine when its warm and not when its cold.

Under heavy throttle the car staggers and shakes like its misfiring or slipping and it continues until I turn the car off

- - - Updated - - -

I started getting these issues maybe 1 hour after the crankshaft sensor was replaced, it was replaced because the car would stall and shut off while idle. Its fine when its warm and not when its cold.

Under heavy throttle the car staggers and shakes like its misfiring or slipping and it continues until I turn the car off

[154e90]

Does the tachometer drop quickly during a misfire? Do you know what brand crank sensor was installed? One hour after a crank sensor replacement leads me to believe its a bad crank sensor or a lazy installation where the mounting surface wasn't cleaned and the air gap is now wrong.

[jollyroger49]

The tachometer drops and for the brand I bought it from O'Reilys autoparts so I dont exactly remember the brand sadly. If the crankshaft sensor needs to be replaced then that is another expensive job. do you have any more recommendations I really appreciate the help

[154e90]

The tach dropping quickly would suggest to me that the DME is losing the crank sensor signal. Can you get us a video of the tachometer as the car misfires? I just went through a loose/faulty crank sensor issue and have a fresh memory of what a tach dropping too quickly looks like. It is normal to see some rpm stumble during a misfire but a rapid drop means loss of signal.

There isn't much else I can suggest if you don't have access to a data plotting code reader or an oscilloscope. What's weird is that crank sensors usually go out when they get hot, or at least that's my experience with Mercedes parts.

I wouldn't put any sensor on my car that isn't genuine BMW or Bosch. Chasing down issues like this makes it totally not worth it, especially if you're paying for labor.

If you end up taking this somewhere to get diagnosed, find someone that can look at the signal with an oscilloscope. Anyone dedicated enough to learn how to use one will likely make good use of your diagnostic time and refrain from throwing random guesses at you like shops all too often do.

[gusm325]

What is the mileage?
You show what appears as O2 sensor failures. You mention engine running bad when cold on your first post.
O2 sensors are for the cold engine- Do you have a secondary air pump? Does it work?
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[jollyroger49]

The mileage is 133000, I do not believe i have a 2nd air pump but yes when I start the car cold it starts jerking and staggering until I restart it.

[jollyroger49]

Are you in Florida? Im just asking to see if you can look at it. I will get the video for you tomorrow probably and on Friday I will take it a different dealership on fridy to get it diagnosed this time by someone else because all the mechanics I know do not have a scanner thats anything as good as you are taking about

[154e90]

I live in South Carolina about 7.5 hours from Orlando. I'd be willing to look at it, but driving it here would kill your catalytic converter and towing it here would cost an order of magnitude more than paying someone to diagnose it. Maybe we can get lucky and this is something we can diagnose remotely.