What went wrong with my car ?? (2001, 540i, Automatic)

[Chedley]

Yesterday, I lost control of the car while driving on the highway : all lights went red, and the car screeched to a halt in an 180 degrees tailspin. Long story short, I restarted the car and drove home slowly, shaken but safe.

Today I hooked up INPA, scanned every module on the car, and found these errors :

-- ZKE3-GM1 module: shadow error 147 : Power-up from GM-3 , static error.
-- Transmission GS8602 module: Error code 32: speed signal, last shift down: 3->2.
-- Engine ME72KWP1 module : Errors 28 and 29 (LR-Adaptation additive, Bank 2).

I thought it could be the ABS/DSC, but I did not find absolutely no errors on that module.
And I cannot blame the battery/alternator either. I have just checked them, and fully recharged the battery just a couple days ago.
Is the transmission giving up ? I have replaced (drain and fill), then topped off the fluid a few weeks ago. I also replaced the differential fluid. I have also cleaned/replaced the spark plugs a couple months ago.

Other than the cold weather, I do not see wtf is the problem with this car ?? :mad :help

[riverdadd]

I'm glad you are ok. 180 degree spin out seems to indicate rear wheels locking up. did it feel like the abs activated? when i was a stupid kid we would beat the hell out of the car by yanking the emergency brake causing the spin out..... I know... stupid things we did in out youth.

- - - Updated - - -

I'm glad you are ok. 180 degree spin out seems to indicate rear wheels locking up. did it feel like the abs activated? when i was a stupid kid we would beat the hell out of the car by yanking the emergency brake causing the spin out..... I know... stupid things we did in out youth.


BTW the old day cars did not have any power anything... especially ABS ( think pinto or vega)

[Chedley]

Hey, Thanks...the cops could not believe nobody was harmed, and no car was damaged. 180 degrees tailspin in rush hour traffic at 60 mph in the middle lane.

Actually it felt like some truck gave me a shove to the side before the tailspin. And yes it felt like the ABS activated -I think it may have saved the day-. But if so, I am surprised that it left no trace no error code or such.
And what could cause the rear wheels to lock up ? I am no teen-age kid, you know...

[riverdadd]

Wow a true white knuckler!!

I am just thinking out loud. maybe a mechanical brake or rear end failure? Since you do not see a code, that may point to a mechanical drive train issue.

[JimLev]

Was the road wet, have snow on it, or ice?

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

You’ve been posting a whole crap ton of doing this, doing that with INPA and all those other programs lately, I’ve noticed. What changes have you made? Cars don’t just do 180’s on there own. That was the rear brakes, ABS, DSC that caused that spin. If the road was wet, how are your tires? What speed were you going when it happened?
This bit me in my old green wagon years ago. Only thing is, I never mess around with the modules and tell everyone how to operate INPA, and NCSdumbass. But BMW has some f’d up algorithim that caused my rear brakes to over react in heavy rain at speeds over 60. Had good tires, Continental DWS, lots of thread, I did hydroplane very slightly, I know how to slide a car whenever I want to, I never hit the brakes, gained control, and out of the blue, the car just whipped around on me 180, 70-75mph across one lane, rush hour traffic, into the shoulder, and into the concrete barrier, left rear corner, hit was so hard, it blew the side curtain pillow airbag, and the airbag on my door. Diamond’d the rear section of the car, blew out the tailgate window, hit ws so hard, the subwoofer in its right rear quarter compartment broke free off of its hinges and got catapulted out into the rear seat.
Why did it happen? Well, I blame myself for maybe going too fast for the conditions, but I was going with the flow of traffic, a brand new mustang that was in front of me also hydroplaned, he did a 360 and got it back perfectly, i hit the patch, car slightly slid to the left, foot off the throttle, counter steered slight left, got it right back, then suddenly the rear end whipped around like I described. Can’t explain it, but that the ABS/DSC crapped it’s pants and freaked out. Same thing happened to a buddies 330ci back in 2004, and I know it’s happened to other on here. I always turned the DSC off when it rains because of this, that day, I had some stuff on my mind and forgot to.
If it was dry when this happened to you, did you mess around playing with your laptop, while plugged to the car?

[jclausen]

What was the weather conditions and what are the conditions of your tires and what is the thread depth those are important questions and how fas t were you going

[cpf9]

I am glad you are ok! I did the same in my '89 W201 a few years ago - lost it on I-95 on black ice during a freezing rain storm, spun out, and ended up in a ditch. Miracle I (or anyone else) didn't get hurt. Totaled the car though :-(

[Ed CT]

Incredible and very lucky that you didn't get hurt in that spinout at 60mph and in rush hour traffic!.


"I thought it could be the ABS/DSC, but I did not find absolutely no errors on that module."
Assuming here that you found absolutely no ABS/DSC errors, or, did not find errors in that module. Double negs are so confusing. If you did or do not know if you changed any of the module settings in INPA, maybe you should do a re-set of all modules back to original default settings, if that can be done.

"Actually it felt like some truck gave me a shove to the side before the tailspin."
Maybe someone actually did perform a PIT maneuver on you - Have you checked your bumper corners? There could be a witness mark there.

[Jaaap]

First suspect would be the transmissin imho, especially if you recently worked on it.
It may have overheated or the fluid may be too high (or too low) or the filter may have collapsed.

I'd probably bring it to a specialist transmission shop and have them inpect it.

[Chedley]

Well, thank you all for your comments and concern. I am still shaken by the incident.! !:confused My replies to your comments::

No error codes on the ABS/DSC modules, I am absolutely positive. And no, I never modified or re-coded any module on this car.

Weather and road condition : wet road, cold weather (about 40) evening, but not freezing. So it was probably not black ice. Speed: about 60-70 mph.

Tires : are in good condition, thread depth 1 cm (0.4 inches) all weather tires, I replaced them a couple years ago. Of note: these are slightly bigger tires (P225/60 R16) than the recommended size in the car’s sticker (P225/55 R16). Per tire calculators, this would make the speedometer off by 3%, but within the error tolerance for the ABS.

Transmission : the only work done on it for the last 3 years is a couple drain-and-fills, and top-off. How an overfilled tranny would cause a lockup and spin out ?! Though the current error code does show a slippage 2nd to 3rd gear.

@riverdadd –.> Which mechanical drive train issues I need to worry about: guibo, brakes,…??

@Snotty --> A few years ago, I had a similar incident of a lockup then shutoff, and immediate halt. but no spin out : I was then in a slow stop-n-go traffic jam. But in worst wet weather conditions, and stormy drenching rain. And yes, I heard of other bummers experiencing it too on their E39’s. So I dunno....if it is a rain thing.

[blarf]

Did you run the diff out of fluid? Running it dry could easily cause seize things up. The DSC (Mk60) on my E46 goes into panic mode if I drive it long enough but it also leaves telltale error codes and doesn't apply only the rear brakes.

How fast was the car going when it shifted into second?

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Oh yeah, by the way, I forgot to mention, So, when I spun a 180, It was on a down slope, and the rain that subsided 5 mins before this happened, just poured suddenly real heavy, right before I got to that down hill section, slid across a lane and then into the shoulder slamming into the wall, backwards, that was freaky. But the state trooper did mention to me that he saw this very same exact accident happen on that particular section of the Beltway, quite a bit, and quite a few BMW’s was what he said. So I adamantly turn the DSC off every time I drive, at least I try to remember to shut it off all the time. Especially when it rains.
if your transmission shifted into 2nd from 3rd, at 60 to 70, if that actually happened, there’s some serious crap going on with your transmission, you said you had just done a drain and fill? Did you do the strainer and filter?.

[Chedley]

So,
The attached INPA error report for the tranny says the downshift 3rd to 2nd happened at 560 rpm as reported by the rear speed sensors, which computes to about 53 mph. I have seen this type of tranny errors a couple times over the last year.

======================
Translation of the tranny error report
==========================
32 speed signal n-ab (output) Error frequency: 1
Logistic counter: 0 Mileage 313970.00 km
Circuit runs 0.00 0/1
Gear engagement 0.00 0/1
Last switching: downshift 3-> 2 19.00 0-n
Gear oil temperature 84.00 degrees C
Mean value rear wheels 560.00 1 / min
=================================

What the transmission experts can say about it ??
Last time I replaced the transmission filter, gasket, oil pan bolts,..etc.. was about 4 years ago. Since then I did a few cold drain-and fill and/or top off's at least once a year. And no I did not run the differential out of fluid. Again, just a simple drain-and-fill with the correct differential oil.

[Jaaap]

Not cool.
The heavy rain could also cause a short (or a bad connection) near a connector for the tranny.
If your car has steptronic tha may have caused the downshift.

[rlordjr]

Could water getting into the trans wiring harness cause this? Mine used to throw failsafe when it was really rainy and water got into the external connector down there. Easy to check and see if connector is no longer sealed. Easy to replace harness.

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[ross1]

I'm unsure what a "180* tailspin" is but it sounds to me that the back of the car tried overtaking the front.
Ruling out driver error it sounds like something locked up the rear wheels. I see you have some transmission error codes.
Can anyone speculate if the conditions indicated could cause two gears to engage at once? Engaging two different ratios at the same time effectively locks up the transmission, the principle behind a "trans brake".

[blarf]

I'm unsure what a "180* tailspin" is but it sounds to me that the back of the car tried overtaking the front.
Ruling out driver error it sounds like something locked up the rear wheels. I see you have some transmission error codes.
Can anyone speculate if the conditions indicated could cause two gears to engage at once? Engaging two different ratios at the same time effectively locks up the transmission, the principle behind a "trans brake".

Yeah, that's why I was wondering about the recently serviced diff. I wonder if simply downshifting to second at speed would be enough to lock up the rear wheels. Are they still moveable? The error description seems to indicate a missing output shaft signal? Perhaps that's someplace to start.

[Chedley]

So,
Well, I am pretty sure the rear wheels locked, and the ABS engaged when the incident happened.

Today, I checked the differential fluid level cold, and found it a bit low. I had to add about 5 ounces to top off..
Then I jacked up the right rear of the car, and noticed the wheel is not movable.
Then I took the car for a slow drive around the bloc, and heard a distinct howling noise from the rear of the car, as if the hand brake is engaged.
INPA does not show any new error code on any module.

At this point, I am lost. So I booked an appointment with a professional traction / brakes shop for diagnosis and/or repair.

[Chedley]

Update:
The traction-tires shop inspected the car, did tires balance and rotation, and confirmed that the suspension, wheels, tires and brakes are just fine.
In light of the whirring/grinding noise from the rear of the car, I redid another drain and fill of the differential fluid. The drained fluid looked dark dirty with a hint of metal dust . Then I took the car for a quick drive : the grinding quieted down a bit, but the howling is still there, at all speeds, with an occasional clink.

At this point, I think it could be the rear differential and/or its bushings that gave up after 20+ years.
Would you concur ? If so, is it easily repairable , or should I contemplate replacing it.
And is it a DIY’able job…?.

[blarf]

If it was really 5 ounces low, that's about 15% of the capacity. I assume things got overheated and self destructed. If you've actually roasted the diff, your best bet is a used unit. Keep in mind BMW won't sell you anything other than seals for it. You can get aftermarket (LSD) gears, but they aren't cheap. I thought I saw a post from someone here who'd found bearings for it. My opinion is that setting them up is a bit of a black art (but others will disagree). The actual diff R&R is pretty easy but installation is much easier with a second set of hands.

My suggestion is to unhook the axle shafts from the output flanges on the diff (support them with a bungee cord or something). See if you can spin the rear wheels and whether the noise goes away. If things still point to the diff, drain it and pop the back cover and take some pictures. You may have to drop the sway bar first (on the 325 you don't with the stock cover but you do with the ZHP cover). Now you're most of the way to pulling the diff out.

[ross1]

Update:
The traction-tires shop inspected the car, did tires balance and rotation, and confirmed that the suspension, wheels, tires and brakes are just fine.
In light of the whirring/grinding noise from the rear of the car, I redid another drain and fill of the differential fluid. The drained fluid looked dark dirty with a hint of metal dust . Then I took the car for a quick drive : the grinding quieted down a bit, but the howling is still there, at all speeds, with an occasional clink.

At this point, I think it could be the rear differential and/or its bushings that gave up after 20+ years.
Would you concur ? If so, is it easily repairable , or should I contemplate replacing it.
And is it a DIY’able job…?.

"howling" indicates gear noise, no amount of excessive gear lash will cause the wheels to lock. "grinding" indicates bearing noise. If a bearing was bad enough to seize and locked the wheel it would likely stay seized. A failing roller bearing will still turn in the most decrepit condition but gives ample warning in the form of the grinding noises, they do NOT fail spontaneously. IF you managed to ignore the warning long enough and one seized and freed again it would be making an unbelievably awful amount of noise now and easily felt turning by hand.
Noise and metal flakes in the diff aren't a good sign. Start by isolating the noise, diff, axles, wheel hub?
Not sure what's going on here but you mentioned this is the second episode. If MY car did as I think you are describing it wouldn't see the road again until sorted.
That's all I've got. Good luck.

Did you happen to notice while this was all going on if the DSC light was blinking?

[philly98540]

Metal in the diff oil! Not good. Don't even mess with that diff, just source another and plop it in. They are fairly cheap and plentiful. Very strange as you rarely hear of any diff failures on these cars.

I wonder if a tooth busted off and caused an instant lock up on the hwy. Then the piece fell out and allowed the car to roll. Now the metal fragments are destroying all the bearings and stuff in there and making the noises and roughness etc.

[JimLev]

Junkyard diff, there must be plenty of them available in your area.
Make sure you get one from an auto so the gear ratio is the same.
Pretty easy to replace, make sure you have a socket/wrench that can fit in and get the 2 rear nuts out. It’s a tight fit between the nuts and the spare tire well.

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

I do recall Chedster posting that he serviced the diff, and did not make sure it was properly filled. I may be wrong, but for some reason, I do recall shaking my head, after I read it.

[rlordjr]

Ok now I'm going to change diff fluid and fill it up right! Then I'll tackle the turbo encabulator.

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[Chedley]

So, I rechecked again under the carriage, and yes, the rear wheels do spin without any noise, but not too freely. And I started prepping the differential bolts with WD-40, for possibly R&R.
Then took it for another test drive, and the howling subsided a bit, but still there: It sounds like the angry roaring of a jet about to take-off...!!

BTW, just a question out of left field: would the wrong types of differential oil could be the culprit ? I am using 75W90 Synthetic, LS, GL-5. (Mobil-1 and Royal-Purple)

[blarf]

The spec might be a heavier weight GL-5 but that shouldn't cause problems so quickly. You shouldn't be seeing metal flakes in the oil that quickly after a fresh fill either. Dollars to donuts you ran it dry. Spec is somewhere around 35 US fluid ounces and you were 5 low. Get a replacement diff (obviously spin it before you buy it). Get some new crush washers (or if you end up with a diff cover that takes bolts with a rubber o-ring get some of those), get some gear oil safe RTV, clean the new diff, seal it up, fill it up and install it.

Impact tools are your friend here. Don't forget the E-TORX sockets and maybe a box wrench.

[StephenVA]

Before you go too far down this path, confirm the rear wheel bearings are NOT on their last legs causing all types of problems. The noise you are commenting on could be rear diff or wheel bearing. VERY common problem with high mileage cars.

Instruction IF you find this is your issue: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1710418-1998-528i-REAR-Bearing-the-Easy-Way!&highlight=rear+wheel+bearings

Going to LOL if the parking brake shoes spring is broken causing all of this.

[philly98540]

Take the cover off your diff and take a look in there.

[ross1]

So, I rechecked again under the carriage, and yes, the rear wheels do spin without any noise, but not too freely. And I started prepping the differential bolts with WD-40, for possibly R&R.
Then took it for another test drive, and the howling subsided a bit, but still there: It sounds like the angry roaring of a jet about to take-off...!!

BTW, just a question out of left field: would the wrong types of differential oil could be the culprit ? I am using 75W90 Synthetic, LS, GL-5. (Mobil-1 and Royal-Purple)
Pinion bearing

[StephenVA]

sounds like it....

[Chedley]

Well, then it is either differential pinion bearings or parking brake shoes ??

My sense is that StephenVA may well have the deserved last laugh -not yet though-.A locked parking brake may have caused or resulted in the spinoff,,,, and the howling noise.

As my braking system was due for servicing anyway, I decided to have a closer look. So I removed the rear tires, calipers, brake pads and rotors, and found an apparently collapsed spring in the right rear parking brake shoe.

I tried then to readjust the parking brakes –they has never been adjusted on this car- . But I accidentally snapped one parking brake cable nut -right side- under the brake lever boot in the console. And when I tried to reinstall the rotors, the rotor on the rear left (driver side) would NOT install, the shoe would not let it, as if the parking brake is fully engaged. The rotor on the right side installs, but then barely turns.

So at this point, I have a huge rear brakes problem to fix, before re-testing for the noise. And I need help to fix it. First, :help
-- How to unlock an apparently locked parking brake ?
-- should I rebuild the whole parking brake thing: shoes, springs, cables and all…?
-- Can I operate the parking brake with only one cable (left side) ?
-- Can I bypass the parking brake or completely remove it -temporarily at least for drive testing purposes??...:help

[StephenVA]

If the spring is broken, then repair and replace the rear parking brakes shoes, springs, etc. The process is outlined in The TIS manual under rear brakes. section 3441250
Download the entire TIS manual here
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2184573-The-Z3-Diagnostics-Thread-Instructions-Experiences-Discussions-Experimentation

By the way, Replacing the parking cables is royal PITA. See instructions in the TIS that show dropping the exhaust, etc.

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Work the parking brake with one cable??? Chedley, maybe you should drop everything, take up knitting and send the car to a shop.

[Ed CT]

The parking brake cable gets corroded and binds up in the sheathing. Spray some Seafoam DEEP CREEP into the parking brake cable housing at the rear wheels. It's a penetrant that sets up afterwards as a lubricant and keeps the parking brake cable from binding up when releasing the brake. You'll probably need to work the cable back-and-forth a bunch of time to free it up - pull it at the rear wheel and then pull from the cabin p-brake handle, repeat several times.

Make sure to follow the procedure for replacing and adjusting the p-brake. Gross adjustment is at the rear wheels, final/fine adjustment is in the cabin at the p-brake handle.

The reason you can't get the rotor reinstalled is that the shoes need to be backed off - of course if the cable is bound up, that needs to be addressed first.

You really don't want to use the parking brake with only one cable - actually that could be the reason for the 180 spinout. And eliminating the p-brake would be risky, as the p-brake is also your e-brake.

[StephenVA]

Updates?

[Chedley]

Well, we are snowed in these days, so did not work on it yet.
My plan is to put it back together, and take it to a BMW shop or dealership to have them replace the parking brakes and cables, and inspect the car...I do not want to -and cannot- do that PITA job of dropping the exhaust just to replace one brake cable.
Question :
Can I dismantle and remove the parking brake shoes, then reinstall the rotors/calipers/pads, and still safely drive the car to a shop or dealership for a brake repair service ??

[StephenVA]

Yes

here in the MidAtlantic we have an ice storm going on. Oh what fun!

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Can I drive it without the parking brake guts..... Chedley, they are just plain and simple drum brakes, without the hydraulic brake cylinders....

[Chedley]

Can I drive it without the parking brake guts..... Chedley, they are just plain and simple drum brakes, without the hydraulic brake cylinders....

So then, what is exactly the function of the parking brake on the E39 ? If I never use it when I park even on downhills, I might as well gut it -at least on the rear right side where the cable is broken anyway - and forget about it.....Yes ? (Excuse my ignorance of p-braking systems).

[blarf]

So then, what is exactly the function of the parking brake on the E39 ? If I never use it when I park even on downhills, I might as well gut it -at least on the rear right side where the cable is broken anyway - and forget about it.....Yes ? (Excuse my ignorance of p-braking systems).

The function is to keep the car from moving when parked. It is completely separate from the hydraulic brake system (except for the rotor). You should be using it on hills (it's just a force of habit out here to leave the car in 1st/R, parking brake engaged, wheels curbed because of all the hills). If you can pull everything out you can reinstall it too.

[Chedley]

Got it. Thanks...
In 21 years of owning this car, I never used the p-brake or serviced it....until the incident of last week.

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Jeeeezuz....

[StephenVA]

Ok that explains just about everything. Preventive maintenance is just what it says it is. Take a look at the TIs or Bentley service manual as they give you an entire list of what needs to be checked, cleaned, lubed, and or replaced based on mileage/time. That min service is why some cars run for years and other die.

[JimLev]

Gonna need 2 boxes for this one.
:eatpop::eatpop:

[StephenVA]

https://tse1.mm.bing.net/th?id=OIP.WHHjQyOSGHK59O_wU29gEwHaFr&pid=Api&P=0&w=220&h=170

[Chedley]

Update :
So I put the car back together -with new rear pads (Akebono)- and drove it to the shop.

Diagnosis : rear wheel bearing deformed, broken rear right hand-brake cable, and bad differential bearings.
Will install a used differential, Will fix all the above, and replace the transmission's rear main seal -while the exhaust is removed.
Any other items to have the mechanic heck or replace "while you are there" ??

[blarf]

Any other items to have the mechanic heck or replace "while you are there" ??

Muffler bearings

[JimLev]

Muffler bearings

^_Only way to remove them is with a left handed monkey wrench.

[StephenVA]

The entire rear suspension wear items, control arms, ball joints, sway bar links and bushings, check lower control arm bushings, ck cv boots, other wheel brgs, and the list goes on and on. How deep you want the list to go on, depends on your timeline of ownership and investment vs waiting until it breaks mentality.

Pics below are from my wife's garage queen '98 528i at 89K standard suspension and driven like a grandma car. All were worn out, tired, and torn. At 100K everything is on borrowed time if not wasted already.

On the current list of suggestions, I would add that you need a bucket of steam to remove any of these parts effectively.

[blarf]

Here's the problem. Unless you're going to do the work yourself your wallet is in for a good beating. I don't know what the typical labor rate is up there, but around these parts you're looking at $100-150/hr. Of everything listed the most tedious is probably the wheel bearing. The bushings are generally not too bad but BMW sized bushing presses make things a lot easier.

[Chedley]

So, I am having the shop do the right wheel bearing, the differential, the rear main seal, and the p-brake cable. And maybe the muffler bearings if broken. I would expect about 8-10 hours labor. Am I in the ballpark ?!
All the other rear suspension items -I think I can DIY it myself. I have already done it at the front of the car, last year.

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

The muffler bearing job calls for 2.5hrs....

[StephenVA]

Are you sure? I got a quote for 6.5 hrs as the parts need o come from bumfookastain which only ships on odd days of the month....

[rlordjr]

What is a muffler bearing?

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[JimLev]

The muffler bearing job calls for 2.5hrs....

Snotty, I think your way off on that time, it’s gonna take 2.5hrs just to get to it, never mind the time to replace it. I just looked up the cost of that part, it recently spiked up to $456 due to the extra amount of steam required in the winter to get it out. If it was in the summer the steam would last much longer.

Chedley, is BMW installing a new diff?

- - - Updated - - -


What is a muffler bearing?

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Once you get a few more post you’ll figure it out.
Some think it’s what the muffler spins on, but their wrong.

[rlordjr]

I was thinking it's kind of a snipe...or headlight fluid

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[JimLev]

I was thinking it's kind of a snipe...or headlight fluid

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Yup, you got it.

[StephenVA]

Blinker fluid!

[ross1]

Are you sure? I got a quote for 6.5 hrs as the parts need o come from bumfookastain which only ships on odd days of the month....
That time is only if you don't have a metric crescent wrench. The parts are difficult to source but I'll bet your friendly AutoZone will be able to find them.

[Chedley]

....
Chedley, is BMW installing a new diff?
.....
.

No. the OEM differential for this car has been discontinued. And I do not want to chance it with a remanufactured one. So I found and ordered a used diff from a junkyard.
And snipes aside, it is a BMW shop, not a "stealership".

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

That time is only if you don't have a metric crescent wrench. The parts are difficult to source but I'll bet your friendly AutoZone will be able to find them.
A metric crescent wrench, man, I don’t have one of those, but I do have an SAE one, wouldn’t that work on some metric nuts and bolts too?

[JimLev]

A metric crescent wrench, man, I don’t have one of those, but I do have an SAE one, wouldn’t that work on some metric nuts and bolts too?
Only on days that end in Y.

[StephenVA]

Those only comes with a left hand screw driver as a set, which only works to remove the screw. You need the companion driver to reinstall the screw.

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Aaaah! Theres too many sides! Too confusing! Is this how it is for those dorks that can’t figure out if they are a man or a woman???

[riverdadd]

How many miles on used diff?? just curious. good luck with repair

[ross1]

How many miles on used diff?? just curious. good luck with repair
Ordered from a junkyard. How many do you want?

[riverdadd]

Ordered from a junkyard. How many do you want?


that my concern, I worry about just popping the used component in and hoping for a better outcome.

[djb2]

Ordered from a junkyard. How many do you want?


This is worth repeating: a boneyard part that comes with a mileage claim just means that they are charging extra to lie to you.
A warranty doesn't say anything good about the part, just that you are less likely to need a lawyer to get a replacement for a bad part.

When I get boneyard parts, I get them from a pull-yourself yard. If you select a car with heavy collision damage, you know that it worked up until the last second.

For a part that typically lasts the lifetime of a car, a boneyard part is a better choice than a failed-then-rebuilt part.

[blarf]

This is worth repeating: a boneyard part that comes with a mileage claim just means that they are charging extra to lie to you.
A warranty doesn't say anything good about the part, just that you are less likely to need a lawyer to get a replacement for a bad part.

When I get boneyard parts, I get them from a pull-yourself yard. If you select a car with heavy collision damage, you know that it worked up until the last second.

For a part that typically lasts the lifetime of a car, a boneyard part is a better choice than a failed-then-rebuilt part.

Yeah if you've got a lot of whatever to choose from a self-service yard can be great, if you don't it's not an option. There definitely aren't that many 540s in the yards here. In fact the only reason I bought a junkyard diff for the 325 was that a ZHP showed up. Carrying a diff and the full exhaust a half mile up to the cashier sucked though. Rebuilt from BMW probably means new bearings in an old case with old gears (maybe new gears), there's absolutely nothing worse about that other than the price.

Differentials don't fail that often, buy what you can find.

[Chedley]

....
For a part that typically lasts the lifetime of a car, a boneyard part is a better choice than a failed-then-rebuilt part.

That was exactly what the mechanic explained to me. Besides, with a rebuilt diff you are really betting on the skills and tools of the remanufacturer...
So anyway, I found a boneyard diff -same car and part # - from a salvaged car with 170 K miles. Mine has 195 K miles. And given the $ cost difference between the junkyard diff and a remanufactured diff --, it was a no-brainer choice.
Now I am waiting for the delivery, will install it -it may need cover and gasket- and see how it holds.

[ross1]

A metric crescent wrench, man, I don’t have one of those, but I do have an SAE one, wouldn’t that work on some metric nuts and bolts too?
You can get away with it on 8, 16 and 22mm

[StephenVA]

Even metric sizes only, who knew?

[JimLev]

Guess I’ll have to throw out all my Whitworth tools. Maybe I can use a set of vise-grips for everything.

[StephenVA]

You use vicegrips? I skip that stage and go directly to torch and hacksaw

[BimmrMeUpSnotty]

Torch and hacksaw, huh? A stick of dynamite, works real good, and is lot’s of fun!

[JimLev]

Gallon of gas and a match works well too.

[StephenVA]

Now we skipping to the crusher stage

[goz777]

metrinch tool/sockets,suits metric & imperial sizes with the same socket......

- - - Updated - - -

ebay specialist tools.......

[StephenVA]

Wasn't that advertised a few years ago on TV? The universal socket with hundreds of little pins inside that formed to whatever nut or bolt head it was pushed over? I may have one of those in my junk box as it was part of my VMD father in law's collection of bad stuff given to him as Christmas presents over his 80 years of car hobby efforts. Well meaning children with no clue of what works vs advertised universal tools. I have his roll around tool box all waxed and preserved in the corner with drawsers full of ancient tools, odd ball one off devices that function on long ago cars, even some hand made wagon tools as his father was farm wagon maker. They cut their own tress for lumber! Any one need a two man saw approx 8' long? How about a home made leveler?
i will post a pic of the universal wrench made of pot metal with one side a swing arm so it would "size" to any nut dimensions. Pure trash. But it was given not purchased.....

https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/57d6cbc5-58c0-4c41-8916-a1b40f4cbd5a_1.30b9c761f0ff46204e857a9dd2770c89.jp eg?odnWidth=undefined&odnHeight=undefined&odnBg=ffffff
7mm - 19mm why buy more than one socket? ha ha

[riverdadd]

Chedley, any updates? hope your repair went smooth