M62-pre vanos timing chains and guides

[aarone39]

Hey guys this is my first time posting here, I've got a 97 540i (pre vanos) that I'm about to do timing chains and guides on. I've been studying the Bentley manual, forums and other websites regarding this and have seen several different ways to do it, I feel comfortable with most of it but I'm unsure about the chains between the cams, can I leave it at tdc and remove the sprockets to replace them or do I have to turn the cams like I'm going to remove them? Also do the cam sprockets have to mount back the same way? I've seen different threads with the sprockets being in different positions, but in theory if the crank is locked and the cams are locked down would it even matter?

[JimLev]

Welcome to the forum Aaron. I moved your post here as it should get more looks.
I’d follow the Bentley manual as I can’t give you any real world experience on the non-tu engines, I’ve only done the tu engines.

[aarone39]

Hey jimlev thanks for letting me know, I'm gonna try and finish it all this weekend. It's crazy how there's all kinds of info for the updated engine but not alot on the non tu. Im gonna follow the Bentley manual and crank the engine by hand once done just to verify the valves aren't slapping the pistons. Wish me luck

[JimLev]

I guess there is lots of info floating around on the web for the M62tu engine because Bentley only has info on timing the non-tu.
Good luck.
Philly98540 has a 98 540, he just did his a few months ago.

[philly98540]

The pre-TU is easier than the TU engine. Pin the flywheel and lock the cams at TDC compression stroke. You can unbolt the cam sprockets easily with an e-Torx socket. They just pop right off. It will make total sense once you get into the job. When going back together, put tension on the main chain, and tighten up the sprocket bolts, unlock the cams and pull the flywheel pin. Then rotate the engine clockwise a couple revs with the main chain still tensioned up. Slowly come back up to TDC compression stroke and check that the cam flats are still flat across the tops and the cam locks can go back on. If they can't, then re-lock everything and adjust again. You will need to counter hold one of the cams as the lobes want to push it forward in time. You will see what I'm talking about once you get started. Its not too complicated, but its a lot of labor cleaning everything and being careful as you button stuff up. I did the job without the cam locking tools. The tools make it easier, but it can be done without.

[aarone39]

Hey guys sorry I haven't replied I never received a notification. Philly98540 I'm curious did you use the zip tie method or the tensioner block? To use the block it appears the upper cover needs to be installed do you know if that's correct? I'm just a little uneasy about the secondary chain and timing,bank 5-8 has a bad tensioner so the chain has alot of play at the moment 682591

[philly98540]

I used the zip tie to hold tension during initial install of the sprockets. I used the tensioner block when I was rotating the engine. You need the right side upper cover on to use the tensioner. The main chain needs to be tight to get the timing set right.

Your 5-8 cam chain tensioner may be fine. What makes you think its bad? With no oil pressure they push in/out pretty easy. They push on the slack side of the chain, so you don't need them to be tight when you rotate the crank around to check cam alignment. Note: you may need to counter hold one of the exhaust cams to maintain a tight cam chain. I forget which bank does this, but you will see this very easily once you do the work.

[aarone39]

Thanks for all the advice, I tried to upload a video but it wouldn't let me. That being said if there were no oil pressure wouldn't both chain tensioners be loose? 5-8 tensioner has alot of side to side play as well as it remaining loose to a point I would consider excessive. I can push on it and get it to expand up and down but it feels sloppy to me. Also not sure if it matters bc I've heard alot of back and forth but the torx bolts on 5-8 aren't centered on the sprocket where 1-4 are. I work night shift so it's been hard for me to find time to really get at it. I've got my car sitting in my driveway half torn apart

[philly98540]

Keep adding some posts and you can post pics/vids. I think you need 10 posts. The tensioner can can pushed in by the steady pressure the cam lobes trying to rotate the cams and thus the chain tension on the slack side. This pushes it in and makes it have some in/out travel. This is can be normal when your doing the guide job. It also may be shot if it has side to side play. Hard to tell from here though. I just know these rarely go bad. They pump back up quick once you start the engine back up. There is a check valve too to keep the oil pressure on them and that may be leaking some. Change out the tensioner if you feel like its suspect.

The alignment of the cam sprocket bolts in the slots does vary from side to side. You can match mark stuff before you loosen the sprocket bolts and then see where you are once the new guides are on and the flywheel is pinned and cams are locked. It will likely be in the same ballpark, but may be a little different.

[aarone39]

Has anyone had any issues with the crank lock pin fitting in the slot? My center tie rod is blocking it from being set in, It looks like I'm gonna have to cut the locking tool shorter

[philly98540]

Rotate steering all the way to one side. BMW lock pin tool fits this way. What tool do you have?

[aarone39]

Awesome, thanks. I bought the schwaben m60/m62 kit. It has the cam blocks, crank holding tool and the tensioner tool

[Dion98740il]

I literally just finished this job last week. Check out my Rebuilding a Dinan 7 thread in the e38 section. Ping me if you have questions during the process....it's all fresh in my head and I fired it up without problems after the job. I did my valley pan while I was in there. This was my first time doing guides and my 98 is pre-vanos.

[aarone39]

@dion98740il awesome man thanks. I've had to pause for a few days the oil seperator I was sent was for the tu motor and none of the parts stores around me even stock it so I have to order it. I replaced my cam chains and tensioners as well, both my tensioners were shot. I've actually replaced almost everything I removed, all new injectors, hoses, upgraded valley pan gasket, knock sensors and I actually painted my valve covers volvo green. Just thought I would make it unique
683072

- - - Updated - - -

683073

- - - Updated - - -

Also my oil pump chain had a ton of slack in it so I had to adjust it and loctite all the pump bolts, they were pretty loose but on the bright side my actual guides were decent the reversing rail had a few spots broken but nothing compared to some ive seen.