Coolant pipes, rear main seal, and maybe crankshaft seal

[Phenoxs]

Im in the market for the coolant pipes and seals for a my 2000 528i bmw. Im swapping a engine from a donor 99 528i because my 00 engine overheated and is no longer any good. I was advised to replace coolant pipes and rear main seal to the donor engine since its out the car, but another question i have is should i go ahead and replace the crankshaft seal even if it doesnt look like its leaking? Im not sure what brands to go with but im looking for good reliable parts for a reasonable price. So shoot me links and brands I should consider.

Thanks

[MotorMouth93]

Since the motor is out just replace all the seals now while it’s easy. I use only OEM seals.

[bossman1]

I would definitely advise to replace the coolant pipes. Part # 11537502525 (https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part?id=DM63-USA-07-1999-E39-BMW-528i&mg=11&sg=35&diagId=11_2638&q=11537502525) and 11531705210 (https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part?id=DM63-USA-07-1999-E39-BMW-528i&mg=11&sg=35&diagId=11_2638&q=11531705210)
For the rear main seal you should also replace # 11141438274 (https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part?id=DM63-USA-07-1999-E39-BMW-528i&mg=11&sg=10&diagId=11_7518&q=11141438274) This would also be a great time to take a look at the flywheel and clutch if it is a manual
Maybe another member will chime in whether you should replace the crankshaft seal.

[Phenoxs]

its an automatic, again which brands other than BMW are reliable and not expensive. These parts do add up quick, which im already in heavy with the engine i just bought.

[bossman1]

Coolant pipes you can use Rein
and for the rear main seal i believe bmw is the only manufacturer

[effduration]

The rear main seal is worth changing. It is possible to just replace the seal, but it it tricky, and there are many reports of people having it leak.
The better option in your case is to buy the new OEM seal already installed in the alum housing. It's a little more $, but comes with big piece of mind and a much lower risk of creating a leak.

look for BMW part # 11141438274 which is the complete kit.

[Phenoxs]

The rear main seal is worth changing. It is possible to just replace the seal, but it it tricky, and there are many reports of people having it leak.
The better option in your case is to buy the new OEM seal already installed in the alum housing. It's a little more $, but comes with big piece of mind and a much lower risk of creating a leak.

look for BMW part # 11141438274 (tel:11141438274) which is the complete kit.


Do you guys reuse flywheel bolts or buy new ones? And what kind of thread locker should one use?

[effduration]

Use New Flywheel bolts...They come with thread locker on them. I don't think they are too expensive.

[TheTailor]

its an automatic, again which brands other than BMW are reliable and not expensive. These parts do add up quick, which im already in heavy with the engine i just bought.Hate to be that guy, but would you rather save a dollar now and spend $100 later or spend $50 now and have reliability? From old too new, BMW ownership is a challenging and expensive relationship which is well documented, just type "BMW ownership" in the Google machine.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[Asbradley21]

Get a corteco crankshaft seal. Not sure about the coolant pipe brands.

[Phenoxs]

What do you guys think about the brand Mahle for the rear main seal?

[MotorMouth93]

Dude just buy an OEM rear seal the price difference is a few dollars.

[Phenoxs]

Dude just buy an OEM rear seal the price difference is a few dollars.

I understand, but I’m in a time crunch due to college constraint. I can receive the mahle seal on Monday relative to the oem seal, reasons why I’m asking about that specific brand.

[Asbradley21]

Its probably fine

[E39 Newbie]

Im in the market for the coolant pipes and seals for a my 2000 528i bmw. Im swapping a engine from a donor 99 528i because my 00 engine overheated and is no longer any good. I was advised to replace coolant pipes and rear main seal to the donor engine since its out the car, but another question i have is should i go ahead and replace the crankshaft seal even if it doesnt look like its leaking? Im not sure what brands to go with but im looking for good reliable parts for a reasonable price. So shoot me links and brands I should consider.

Thanks

Rein is OEM for the coolant pipes. IIRC Corteco is the OEM for the seals, Yes replace both while it's out. The rear isn't that difficult if you're careful. Don't forget the gasket for the cover. Reinz should be fine in this case.

Replace the oil pan gasket and o-ring for the oil pickup while it's out of the car. Get a tube of Sil-Glyde for lubing the o-rings.

Also consider the o-rings for the dipstick tube and the dipstick. Replace the CCV while the engine's out. Don't ask me how I know this. You can thank me later.

[Phenoxs]

Rein is OEM for the coolant pipes. IIRC Corteco is the OEM for the seals, Yes replace both while it's out. The rear isn't that difficult if you're careful. Don't forget the gasket for the cover. Reinz should be fine in this case.

Replace the oil pan gasket and o-ring for the oil pickup while it's out of the car. Get a tube of Sil-Glyde for lubing the o-rings.

Also consider the o-rings for the dipstick tube and the dipstick. Replace the CCV while the engine's out. Don't ask me how I know this. You can thank me later.

Ive been reading a lot about oil catch cans, you think doing away with the oem CCV system and implementing the catch can is a better option?

[E39 Newbie]

Ive been reading a lot about oil catch cans, you think doing away with the oem CCV system and implementing the catch can is a better option?

Not really, the CCV does the same thing as what us oldsters used to call the PCV valve. You'll still need that functionality. It's just that when these POS valves fail it sends full manifold vacuum to the oil pan, causing the engine to suck up and burn all of your oil, with the resultant huge clouds of grey smoke. Don't ask how I found this out. It's just easier to replace when then engine's already out of the car.

[mattmar1]

the m52tu engine doesnt have the issues that the m54 does re oil consumption. id put a new CCV while the engine is out (BMW unit), id stay way away from the aftermarket brands. if you do end up having to replace it later on, its only a 2 1/2 to 3 hr job, intake manifold doesnt need to be removed even though the manuals say it does.

[JimLev]

Mahle makes good parts, I use then in a heart beat.

[djb2]

I suggest replacing the rear main seal by removing the seal carrier. Replace the seal carrier flat gasket ($2-3) and the oil pan gasket ($12) at the same time.

On my M54 I used the following brands successfully:
11131437237 VICTOR REINZ Oil Pan Gasket (after deciding I didn't like a Beck Arnley gasket I had ordered earlier)
11142249532 VICTOR REINZ Front Crankshaft Seal (48 X 65 X 10)
11142249533 ELRING KLINGER rear Crankshaft Seal (90 X 110 X 12) (comes with the seal "installation tool" that keeps the lip properly stretched during storage)
11141432240 VICTOR REINZ Gasket - Crankshaft Seal Housing (horseshoe shaped embossed flat gasket)

I selected them based on availability and being known brands.

[cnn]

Mahle is an excellent supplier.

However, seal is a very interesting topic.

In contrast to NGK spark plug or Sachs struts, which are OEM supplier, when it comes to seal it is a very interesting world.

The 2005-2010 Honda Odyssey vans, even with Japanese brand, start leaking at axle seal at 20K miles. People try different brands etc.

So, for the BMW E39, if factory RMS lasts some 180K-200K, stick to Genuine BMW seal.
I just happen to know that Corteco is the supplier.
Mahle is probably good too.

Here is the issue: it is not the $10-$30 seal, it is the labor involved!

Technique is crucial: make note of the exact depth of the factory seal, such as how many mm from which edge of the bore, then install the new seal exactly like that. Make sure the lip (where it meets the crank shaft) is not folded over during installation.
Otherwise, you will likely have a leak.

[djb2]

Technique is crucial: make note of the exact depth of the factory seal, such as how many mm from which edge of the bore, then install the new seal exactly like that. Make sure the lip (where it meets the crank shaft) is not folded over during installation.
Otherwise, you will likely have a leak.

Shaft seals are a mature technology. It's still possible to make them wrong, but many companies have been making excellent ones for a half century, and materials have gotten better since then.

Installing the seal incorrectly is the most likely cause for seal failure. The seal should come mounted on a form that keeps the seal lip correctly stretched during storage, and doubles as a protective guide during installation. The best installation technique is to remove the seal carrier, drive out the old seal, and install the new seal precisely flat and level. An off-angle or twisted seal will have a shorter life or fail to seal as well. The seal contacts over a wide area, so there is little point in trying to match the position of the previous seal.

Because of the way the seal carrier and oil pan gaskets meet, you'll want to replace both at the same time. Even if you don't replace the rear main seal, you'll definitely want to replace the oil pan gasket now when it's an easy 15 minute job, rather than later when it is most of a miserable day. The oil pan gasket has a good chance of being brittle, and the flexing during engine installation could cause a brittle-but-intact gasket to fail.