nmlss2006
07-25-2019, 06:00 PM
As I posted in the trans info thread....
I recently bought a 1999/03 build 750iL, which just rolled over 92kmi.
Since when I bought it with 85,700 on the clock the transmission has been .. less than totally smooth, especially when engaging reverse from park.
This is generally not the trans, however. I'll change engine mounts, trans mounts and guibo before playing with the transmission if there is no harshness in shifting while moving - which there is not.
OTOH, the car is on the original ATF, so I was going to replace it anyways... yesterday, while I was 150 miles from home, I was reversing out of a parking spot and got 'trans failsafe prog' within 10 seconds of starting the car.
There was much rejoycing.
I drove it to the other side of the parking lot to have a straight shot with no need to get into R and did the Windows thing.
Since there are electronics in an E38, of course it worked: no more error.
I carefully drove home (160 miles, mostly highway, temperature in the 80s) without issue. Shut the car down.
This morning, I put it on the lift (still no issues) and I was going to drain it when I read, here, about the need to change some pieces in the valve body of the 5HP30 the first time the fluid gets changed.
I'd still like to know if that is necessary and if that applies to MY00s, but aside from that timm suggested reading the error memory with INPA. It really didn't hurt anything, even though in my experience it's less than useful with fluid-related-trans-issues, so I did.
Here comes the interesting part: there only was one error, which I know for a fact wasn't there a month ago. It complained about U-batt voltage below 9V. The curious thing was, it said the error was at 148,300km - which comes out to 92,629 mi, a little more than the car has on it right now.
In particular, however, it's more km than the car had when it went into failsafe.
There are no other errors.
Coincidentally, two weeks ago someone (...) left the door ajar and the batteries went entirely dead. I took them out, charged/desulfated them for 72 hours and they seem to have recovered OK, though the large one, which is new, is definitely back to 100% whereas the small one, which is some six years old, won't go above 13.9 pulse voltage (which means I have to spend more time with it, but in any case it means it's not in particularly good condition). Rest voltage after 10 seconds of 50A battery tester is in the 12.7s, so the battery is functional, in any case.
Ideas and suggestions, other than 'change the fluid anyways'? What about the valve body stuff?
Thanks!
I recently bought a 1999/03 build 750iL, which just rolled over 92kmi.
Since when I bought it with 85,700 on the clock the transmission has been .. less than totally smooth, especially when engaging reverse from park.
This is generally not the trans, however. I'll change engine mounts, trans mounts and guibo before playing with the transmission if there is no harshness in shifting while moving - which there is not.
OTOH, the car is on the original ATF, so I was going to replace it anyways... yesterday, while I was 150 miles from home, I was reversing out of a parking spot and got 'trans failsafe prog' within 10 seconds of starting the car.
There was much rejoycing.
I drove it to the other side of the parking lot to have a straight shot with no need to get into R and did the Windows thing.
Since there are electronics in an E38, of course it worked: no more error.
I carefully drove home (160 miles, mostly highway, temperature in the 80s) without issue. Shut the car down.
This morning, I put it on the lift (still no issues) and I was going to drain it when I read, here, about the need to change some pieces in the valve body of the 5HP30 the first time the fluid gets changed.
I'd still like to know if that is necessary and if that applies to MY00s, but aside from that timm suggested reading the error memory with INPA. It really didn't hurt anything, even though in my experience it's less than useful with fluid-related-trans-issues, so I did.
Here comes the interesting part: there only was one error, which I know for a fact wasn't there a month ago. It complained about U-batt voltage below 9V. The curious thing was, it said the error was at 148,300km - which comes out to 92,629 mi, a little more than the car has on it right now.
In particular, however, it's more km than the car had when it went into failsafe.
There are no other errors.
Coincidentally, two weeks ago someone (...) left the door ajar and the batteries went entirely dead. I took them out, charged/desulfated them for 72 hours and they seem to have recovered OK, though the large one, which is new, is definitely back to 100% whereas the small one, which is some six years old, won't go above 13.9 pulse voltage (which means I have to spend more time with it, but in any case it means it's not in particularly good condition). Rest voltage after 10 seconds of 50A battery tester is in the 12.7s, so the battery is functional, in any case.
Ideas and suggestions, other than 'change the fluid anyways'? What about the valve body stuff?
Thanks!