Help. Changing the front door lock actuator

[Dave Sal]

I'm using Fudman's PDF as a reference and it mentions aligning the two tabs on the top of the lock mechanism before installing the actuator or the lock button won't got up or down. No matter what I do I can't get the round one to move at all. It needs to move to the right. Any advice would be much appreciated. I've already done the rear door about two years ago but this front actuator replacement is a pain in the azz.

10. Reassembly – This is the part that is not described anywhere. When you replace the actuator, make sure the two center tabs (arrows) are aligned like so. For some reason, if you do not do this, the lock button does not go up or down when the actuator is triggered.

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[atobe]

You'll need to simulate that the door is locked. Push on the door latch with a screw driver.

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Also the the driver's actuator won't work unless the master window is plugged in. That's why i'm an expert at removing n installing the door lock actuator :D:D:D.

[Dave Sal]

You'll need to simulate that the door is locked. Push on the door latch with a screw driver.

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Also the the driver's actuator won't work unless the master window is plugged in. That's why i'm an expert at removing n installing the door lock actuator :D:D:D.

Thanks atobe. I did as you suggested and I managed to get the two metal tabs aligned as per the instructions. After that everything seemed to be going smoothly and once I managed to get the Bowden cable back in, the assembly slid into position where the lock mechanism aligned with their screw holes and I reinstalled one screw. Then I reconnected the battery and gave it a try, only to finds that the button doesn't move. What did I do wrong? I'm thinking that I didn't get the door handle pin into the hole where it goes. Heck, I can barely see that area when I'm looking at it, and not sure how to make sure that is catches in the hole. Any suggestions?

[atobe]

Read what i said in the second part. Was the window master switch connected after you reconnected the battery?

[Dave Sal]

Read what i said in the second part. Was the window master switch connected after you reconnected the battery?

Yes, everything was connected except the airbag. Still no joy. Had to replace an ejector pump today (yuk!) so didn't have any time to mess with it. I'll give it another go tomorrow. I'm considering removing the door handle so I can be sure that the pin goes into the hole on the back of the lock assembly.

[Dave Sal]

Ok, I managed to get the lock cylinder rod into the slot in the locking mechanism. Thought I was home free but I reconnected the battery and found that the lock button still won’t go up or down. I also tried the key in the lock and it only turns to the right. Can’t turn it to the left. I think this is a job I should have had the dealer do for me.
Im wondering if aligning the two metal tabs before installing the new actuator is the problem. The tabs were not aligned when I removed the old one so I assume that position should have been where they were supposed to be. I followed Fudmans advice on his write up though, and aligned them. Maybe moving it is what is causing this issue. Now I get to take it all apart again trying to figure this out. I hope someone has some advice that could shed some light on this issue. Thanks

[Dave Sal]

Well, after another frustrating day of playing with the door lock mechanism, I throw in the towel. I took it all apart again, double checked that I followed Fudman's DIY to the letter, and buttoned it back up again. No joy.
The two hardest things about this DIY were getting the Bowden cable off of it's holder, and getting the lock cylinder post seated in it's hole in the door lock mechanism.
With a bruised right forearm from constant scraping on the metal door frame, I am done with this. Made an appointment with the dealer for tomorrow morning. I can open the door from the outside handle, but it won't lock. The inside handle no longer works and I have to open the window and open it with the outside handle. Hopefully the BMW techs can figure out what I did wrong. I haven't been to the dealer in over a decade and they even moved locations. Guess it's bound to happen sooner or later no matter how hard we try to DIY. :(

[atobe]

At least you gave it a shot. Yes getting the bowden cable back into the thing is a PITA, I did it like 5 times that day so I was a pro at the end. Sorry I couldn't help you anymore. I also followed the guide and it worked fine for me.

[Dave Sal]

Just got back from the dealer. Apparently the rod that comes out of the lock cylinder had become turned a bit before sliding into the slot on the back of the lock mechanism. This caused it to be in a lock mode, which prevented locking / unlocking.
A secondary issue was that the inner door handle Bowden cable was cracked at the yellow sheath. Of course, the dealer didn't have one in stock for an 18 year old vehicle, so I just ordered one from FCP Euro. Now I need to figure out whether I'll do it myself or let the dealer do it for me. If I have to remove the lock mechanism again I think I'll let them take care of it. Thanks again for your reply atobe.