BMW Official Windshield Installation Procedure Questions

[FireTumbleweed]

Referencing the following TIS https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e39-530i-lim/repair-manuals/51-body-equipment/2StYI4N

I read this as there is to be a 2-3.5mm gap between the top of the windshield and the roof skin. The way to measure this is using
0495259Gauge

510010

Minimum set: Mechanical tools

Mechanical tool


https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/obj/CUEJOx8v




one would place the long flat part next to the 1.0 on the windscreen and if the small tab next to the 2.0 is touching the roof skin before it the long flat part lays flat then the windshield is not set in far enough. Is this how others understand it?

I have addl ? but want to make sure I'm on the same page with everyone.

[rdl]

I wouldn't say a gap, which I take to be a slot. Rather a difference in height, i.e. not flush.

With the scenario you describe the gauge is indicating that the "A" dimension is more than 2 mm. So the windshield might be OK so long as the "A" is less than 4 mm.

I think it would be easier to use the gauge a little differently.
To measure for 2 mm, put the "1.0" side on the windshield and slide it toward the roof line. If the tab with "2.0" clears the roof line the "A" dimension is less than 2 mm. If it just barely touches, "A" is exactly 2 mm.
For 3 mm, use the "2.0" side. "3.0" tab clearing the roof line => "A" is less than 3
etc.

Since you want "A" to be 2 mm or more and less than or equal to 3.5 mm, the gauge should bind on the roof line when measuring for 2 mm (or just barely touch) and clear the roof on 4 mm.

[FireTumbleweed]

Yes, that is exactly how I thought. I'm glad your here RDL. I read your post on the B-Fest site where it cites what I believe is this

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e39-530i-lim/repair-manuals/51-body-equipment/2StYI4N

The dealer is telling me that that is an older version and that this

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e39-530i-lim/repair-manuals/51-body-equipment/51-31-front-rear-window/2QkrcJW

is the current version, even though the older tool 51-3-210 is no longer avail. They are also saying it is proper to use the tool listed above (51-0-010) with the spec of 0-1.5mm.

Even reading their "latest" instructions it doesn't make sense and the pictures do not correlate with what they are saying as each tool is measuring two difference distances. I've agreed to meet with them again to go over the two separate instructions.

So a couple of questions,

First what I think is the updated version (the one you cite) in the TIS website the link for it does say "NOT USA"

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e39-530i-lim/repair-manuals/51-body-equipment/

not sure if I should be concerned about that. How could I verify the dates for either to verify which is the latest. (The dealer states when they run my VIN their set of instructions come up)?

Second, if they stick to their guns, who or how could I move it up the BMW chain to talk with someone who actually is in charge of writing these instructions? They are unable to rebut my comments about the instructions. My concern is "this is how we've always done it and no complaints" and "we measured it on some E39s here and they all show the 1mm" is the overriding decision point.

They have been very cordial and cooperative so I have no beef with that. It's just my gut that the two tools and two instructions/pictures are so similar that there was a mistake made back in the day and nobody realized it.

[rdl]

I looked up the windshield installation instruction in the version of TIS that I have.
"DVD 12/2007, TIS version 3.4.2 of 18 Feb 2005"
Using the VIN for my 2003 530, it turns up the instruction your dealer is quoting, namely with tool 51-3-210 & "A" 0 - 1.5 mm. Surely your 2002 530 would be the same.

I strongly suspect the two, differing, "A" dimensions with different tools actually result in the same glass to roof line result.

However, the dealer's claim that " it is proper to use the tool listed above (51-0-010) with the spec of 0-1.5mm" makes no sense to me. How can you criss-cross dimensions among tools, which have different dimensions? If you wish to bate them, ask if it would similarly be OK to use the 2-3.5 mm dimension with tool 51-3-210. LOL

If it were me, I'd give the OK for the method they wish, but with your expectation that there won't be any wind noise around the windshield. That after all is the point of the roof to glass dimension: too high or too low both result in wind noise. If there is wind noise after the install, they should correct it at their expense.

BTW, I assume the dealer intends to use new rubber molding around the windshield (not adhesive of course, rather the surround molding along the sides and top.) There have been quite a few reports of wind noise when folks tried re-using the old molding.

[FireTumbleweed]

So met with the shop foreman and we sat and looked on his laptop with my VIN and was able to pull up the instructions with the older tool but not the newer tool (this encompasses all E39s). The older instructions are under the "Repair Instruction" heading on TIS and in his system, while the updated version should sit under the "Service Information" heading. It shows up under TIS but not his system, not sure why. The updated (more the "Change" version) is included with later models (in his system and TIS) but for some reason doesn't populate on E39's in his system. That to me would say it's universal and it was just an oversight but....

He still wouldn't buy that the change should be used for E39s. So, one side is almost at 2mm (close enough for spec) and the other side is at 1 mm (1mm out of spec) and I had to make the decision as to whether to have them pull it which they were willing to do. So I told them I'll listen for the wind noise and if I think I hear it then I'll do that, however for now I'll let it ride. My main reason for having the dealership do it was because of them following their instructions. However I told them if the end result is the same tolerance I could get from an outside reputable glass company how do I justify spending the additional $$ at the dealership. They really weren't able to refute that. The nice thing is that they genuinely seemed interested in resolving this and making it right rather than BS their way out of it. I think I took over an hour of his time today.

The last time I had it replaced the reputable local company (no not safe light) followed "most" of their instructions i.e adhesive type, triangular cut, ect and the end result was the same tolerance I have now.

And yes the two tools produce the same depth, I have a diagram of the original tool and you can tell how the flat side is angled up.

Also, I pre-purchased everything for this from the parts dept and yes I got a new molding.