Hakeem’s BMW 530i

[Hakeem530i]

I’ve been on this forum for a while just lurking but I picked up an e39 early last month and was daily driving my e24 prior to that.

I bought my 530i for $1800 with 212k miles but that’s nothing compared to my e24 with about 300k miles.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180805/a85c0e1e4abf415ddecdfc4206d56e89.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180805/75fe31aacb1f02975c972c9a5b2ca5bb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180805/f6ea2174b070a5b6ec43361351ade3b0.jpg

When I bought the car it:
1. Wouldn’t pass emissions

This was due to an 02 sensor (all originals were still on the car),

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180805/a43795d72ffe84a9b27ee3965f84a817.jpg

the thermostat (thermostat failed open so the car never got to operating temps).
P0491 and P0492 due to broken vacuum hose to the intake manifold.

2. Headlights came on by itself with the car off

Fixed after I replaced the LCM

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180805/8602ebcfc37831f068687dd1bdf3ad8f.jpg

3. Interior dome light wouldn’t work or come on when door is opened

I checked all bulbs and fuses and they were fine. I did some research and it pointed to the GM3 module. After replacing the module all is working now.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180805/e591c08e07d238ae53fd9d02be3b9c76.jpg

4. Had an oil leak that the PO couldn’t find

Due to a leaking camshaft position sensor O-ring. The old one was hard, shrunk and crystallised. The oil leak disappeared after I replaced it. The new one fits a lot more snug.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180805/6452795d95a8b832722175a699e47a52.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180805/8a4480f5a64cc4c530521fe2beb667ca.jpg

5. Had a power steering leak.

Idk but I wanted to replaced all hoses since it looks like they were due for replacement. Also found the oring to also be leaking but the hoses and canister were inexpensive so I replaced it anyways.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180805/45c21099568ce394bcef712ac52739d4.jpg

6. PO disconnected radio due to “electrical issues”

The LCM replacement in #2 fixed this. Reconnected the radio and have no issues apart from the radio going in and out. I’ll be throwing it out soon and replacing it so it’s fine for now.

7. High beams wouldn’t work.

They were disconnected because they kept coming on by themselves. I reconnected them after replacing the lcm and now they work fine.

8. Headlights works intermittently

i realised that sometimes I have to toggle the light switch a couple times before the left side low beams to come on. I linked this to a bad ballast. Used one should be coming in soon.

I’ll upload pictures when I get on my computer and update this as time does on. I also post updated to Instagram :).

[JimLev]

Welcome to the forum.
$1800 was a good price with all those (normal) problems, hope he body is in better condition.
Your pics aren't working, probably because of the way you tried to post them.

[geargrinder]

Wow lotta work done already! Good stuff.

Hope the GM and LCM both being bad aren't some signs of something else that was shorting and burning them out (water in the passenger footwell?)

[Hakeem530i]

Welcome to the forum.
$1800 was a good price with all those (normal) problems, hope he body is in better condition.
Your pics aren't working, probably because of the way you tried to post them.

Thanks, not sure why they weren't showing. Just reposted them and the body isn't perfect but I think it's good for $1800. Only flaw I saw is a scratch on the passenger rear door, the fender corners under the hood wasn't repainted after being replaced and bumper gaps.

Wow lotta work done already! Good stuff.

Hope the GM and LCM both being bad aren't some signs of something else that was shorting and burning them out (water in the passenger footwell?)
Thanks and hopefully not. Would the carpets be wet if that was the case? I'm hoping there's a way to find out without pulling it.

[JimLev]

Under the carpet is a 1" foam pad. Under that is (pass side front) a fuse block with 5-7 high amp fuses in it.
If there was any water there the only way to see it would be to remove the plastic sill and peal back the carpet.

[Hakeem530i]

Been working on my car but forgetting to document.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181007/6931afc7500719bd9310b2de88b02bb6.jpg
Found out why my tail light worked intermittently. I bought a new connector to use but new tail light gaskets fixed the issues on both sides. Haven’t had the problem in weeks since I changed it.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181007/c0a136f17101ce6c9b39b2d3c55ef9b2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181007/a82df24d4b7f98031a9f1105b9fe59af.jpg
Got 4 new brake rotors/pads and sensors. This is the first time I’ve ever done brakes on a car and it did take me all day to replace them. Old ones were shot.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181007/f5046b99c9f103998fbaab857fe721f3.jpg
I’ve been having “low coolant” message on my cluster and it’s been making me paranoid. After pulling the sensor I found the problem. One of the prongs are broken off. Got a new one, bled and it works fine now.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181007/f3c21b5a52ea8d0ad665ff4465b93054.jpg
Replaced the water pump, ac mechanical pulley, tensioner pulley, idler pulley. I was sure to replace the power steering pulley and fan clutch pulley with aluminium from ecstuning.

I’ll be swapping the m56 valve cover and doing a complete cooling system overhaul (deleting the old ccv while in there) in the coming weeks.

Love this car.


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[amancuso]

Looks like you've got everything in hand. :drink1

[Hakeem530i]

Got a lot colder and my car wouldn’t get to operating temps. Knew it wasn’t good to keep at it for long so I found out the thermostat was the problem as expected. The thermostat was just 2 months old but I guess that’s what I get for buying it from autozone.

Before:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181117/05d7fa8c1d749ef70e094d24a77b9a62.jpg

After:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181117/b72c2bd2ab05212acc627ab2b84b1895.jpg

It was warmer outside so I’m keeping my fingers crossed that it’ll stay the same when temps drop again.

Got a new ground cable for the engine. You can see from the pic on the right that some of the insulation was gone.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181117/17379d8d27eef0aba7bcdf0be90d88a2.jpg

Got New Bosch wiper blades
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181117/47742f927857e3aaa7dc7ece6efe11da.jpg

Changed the spark plugs a month or so ago and forgot to update.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181117/00d1f3a7f0778caa3287676c59f300b3.jpg

I also cut and program my own keys. I’ll post a pic when I get a chance.

Next I’ll be replacing the driveshaft, overhauling the cooling system, installing the m56 vc then audio.

[CPHES]

Here’s a hint - if you do wheel bearings - look into e60 units - they have the ‘normal 72.65mm hub - not the odd 74.1 that is E39 specific - gives you wheel choices - but you need spacer rings to run E39 wheels

[geargrinder]

Here’s a hint - if you do wheel bearings - look into e60 units - they have the ‘normal 72.65mm hub - not the odd 74.1 that is E39 specific - gives you wheel choices - but you need spacer rings to run E39 wheels

Seems like a bit of a non-sequitur. OP hasn't mentioned needing bearings?
"By the way in case you decide to get a new lawnmower I strongly suggest a zero-turn model, its worth the investment because of the time savings you'll get in mowing-time!"

Re: E60... yeah yeah... the nooberdoober guys constantly throw that out there.

It certainly has its place as a mod, but in reality the hubswap is only worth it IMO if:
- You either really have to have some wheel that doesn't come in E39 spacing, and/or, all your current wheels are trash, and/or you have a stable of BMW's and happen to have wheels that otherwise would be perfect fit
AND
- You definitely need wheel bearings on both ends of the car, and/or for some reason you're tearing the wheel carriers off anyway (and there's almost nothing else requiring the wheel carrier to come all the way off except perhaps an axle job).

If you've got good wheels you're happy with, I fail to see it really being worth it. Its a tremendous amount of PITA and cost just so you can throw on some used 3er wheels or whatever.

[mebjr12]

How did the M56 Valve Cover conversion go? I have been thinking about doing this because I am at 152k and I assume its still the original CCV. My only issue is since I have a 2002 530i I would have to change the wire harness and upgrade to the new BMW coils that were used. Seems like a lot of work just to delete the old CCV

[Hakeem530i]

How did the M56 Valve Cover conversion go? I have been thinking about doing this because I am at 152k and I assume its still the original CCV. My only issue is since I have a 2002 530i I would have to change the wire harness and upgrade to the new BMW coils that were used. Seems like a lot of work just to delete the old CCV

I have all the parts so far but I haven’t installed it and I have a 07/2002 as well so I’m in the same boat. I did get lucky and managed to grab everything for $250 on eBay. With the repinning tool it took 5 mins to repin the m56 harness and the seller I bought mine from included coils, dipstick and the connector from the vc to the manifold so I’m good to go.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181118/645d98b2d513221afcb3d488a7a814a2.jpg

You can buy rubber caps from autozone or any auto store to seal off the OEM ccv connections if you don’t want to pull everything out. I’m very ocd so I’ll be pulling the entire ccv when I do a cooling overhaul.

[Hakeem530i]

Seems like a bit of a non-sequitur. OP hasn't mentioned needing bearings?
"By the way in case you decide to get a new lawnmower I strongly suggest a zero-turn model, its worth the investment because of the time savings you'll get in mowing-time!"

Re: E60... yeah yeah... the nooberdoober guys constantly throw that out there.

It certainly has its place as a mod, but in reality the hubswap is only worth it IMO if:
- You either really have to have some wheel that doesn't come in E39 spacing, and/or, all your current wheels are trash, and/or you have a stable of BMW's and happen to have wheels that otherwise would be perfect fit
AND
- You definitely need wheel bearings on both ends of the car, and/or for some reason you're tearing the wheel carriers off anyway (and there's almost nothing else requiring the wheel carrier to come all the way off except perhaps an axle job).

If you've got good wheels you're happy with, I fail to see it really being worth it. Its a tremendous amount of PITA and cost just so you can throw on some used 3er wheels or whatever.

Yup. I love the stock wheels so I have no need for them now. I’d rather spend that $500 or so on a cooling system overhaul or maintenance.

[mebjr12]

Have you found a solution for SES Codes the conversion will cause?

[bimmer7410]

Awesome work. Always feels great to fix these cars part by part. A lot of the work is really straightforward.

[Hakeem530i]

Have you found a solution for SES Codes the conversion will cause?

I was worried about that too. After researching and talking to people that did it, they told me the conversion (different harness swap) won’t trigger the SES light, just codes inside the computer that’ll show up with advanced scan tools and won’t affect emission readiness. To make it go away I’ve read it has something to do with using the resistor from the m54 harness and soldering some grounds to each connector or something like that but I haven’t looked further and I’m not bothered as long as it doesn’t trigger the light.


Awesome work. Always feels great to fix these cars part by part. A lot of the work is really straightforward.
Thanks and Yup. It’s a rewarding feeling for sure. Felt great being in the rain and not having my wipers screeching at me and having heat.

[Hakeem530i]

Wasn’t really the plan but I managed to grab a pair of some DJ Auto headlights from the e39 Facebook group that someone was selling for $120.

I have a pair of hella xenon projectors,shrouds etc that I’ll be swapping from some old permaseal headlights in place of the halogen projectors until I save up for some bixenons

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181120/049239aa330b82e7bd9717c3925732fa.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181120/88ef74c29b9205ebfd5dcacf498c86e1.jpg

Old set I got for $50 that I’ll be swapping parts from:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181120/9c333dd341b10a46082df48f454290df.jpg

Excited I can finally throw out my depo headlights.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181120/4d2d3033cae81d970be142ca84568164.jpg

[itsbrokeagain]

One thing when doing the M56 cover, the main breather hose coming off of it, will not click into the distribution rail on top of the M54 manifold. I had to trim the end of it down flush (if you look at it from a side view, the tube comes out past the clip) and then I was able to click it onto the distribution rail.

The real solution is to find an M56 rail but that part number doesn't exist and searching eBay comes up with M54 manifolds from sellers who thinks it's an M56.

[Hakeem530i]

One thing when doing the M56 cover, the main breather hose coming off of it, will not click into the distribution rail on top of the M54 manifold. I had to trim the end of it down flush (if you look at it from a side view, the tube comes out past the clip) and then I was able to click it onto the distribution rail.

The real solution is to find an M56 rail but that part number doesn't exist and searching eBay comes up with M54 manifolds from sellers who thinks it's an M56.

Thanks, I'll keep this in mind when doing mine. Have you had any problems so far with the m56 vc?

[itsbrokeagain]

Thanks, I'll keep this in mind when doing mine. Have you had any problems so far with the m56 vc?

I've had none. Did it to both my wife's E46 and my X5. I was going to do that conversion along with the coils in my 2000 e39 wagon but it got totalled out before I could do so.

Another suggestion. Don't bother trying to install the included dipstick. It wasn't bent at the right angle and fit weird. I reused my original dipstick and put a rubber cap over the end where the original CCV would drain back into. Same thing with the distribution rail on top of the intake manifold. Unbolted and gently pried it off, ripped the old CCV line off the back, put a rubber cap over it, did some cleaning while I was in the area and reasemble.

My oil consumption dropped to pretty much nothing after doing it.

You get a satisfying feeling ripping out all the old CCV crap and knowing you'll never have to replace that stuff ever again, and the amount of vacuum leaks you eliminate. Not to mention its also a great time to pull the throttle body, clean it with some brake cleaner as well as the IACV. Mine ran like a champ after doing all that.

[Hakeem530i]

I've had none. Did it to both my wife's E46 and my X5. I was going to do that conversion along with the coils in my 2000 e39 wagon but it got totalled out before I could do so.

Another suggestion. Don't bother trying to install the included dipstick. It wasn't bent at the right angle and fit weird. I reused my original dipstick and put a rubber cap over the end where the original CCV would drain back into. Same thing with the distribution rail on top of the intake manifold. Unbolted and gently pried it off, ripped the old CCV line off the back, put a rubber cap over it, did some cleaning while I was in the area and reasemble.

My oil consumption dropped to pretty much nothing after doing it.

You get a satisfying feeling ripping out all the old CCV crap and knowing you'll never have to replace that stuff ever again, and the amount of vacuum leaks you eliminate. Not to mention its also a great time to pull the throttle body, clean it with some brake cleaner as well as the IACV. Mine ran like a champ after doing all that.

Thanks a lot for the tips. Decrease in oil consumption and not having to pull the manifold again are the only reasons I decided to do it.

Can’t wait to throw it on.

[Hakeem530i]

Replaced the driveshaft with a brand new one,flex disc and transmission mounts yesterday. The difference is night and day.

My flex disc looked new but whoever replaced the driveshaft before me did a half ass job.

The CSB wasn’t straight, ujoints were bad and for some reason the csb was held in by what I’m assuming was tar. I’m guessing they thought it’d help with vibration.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181122/dfad5fcca22d1efb53fdea1fc27ed5e5.jpg

New trans mount vs 210k mile OEM mounts.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181122/94f33f880e93cc5bed959db04b30e963.jpg

New driveshaft fixed clunking when putting it in reverse, drive and now shifts smoothly. Bad news is it didn’t help with a metallic rattle I was having while accelerating.
I replaced all 4 of my O2 sensors with OEM sensors and still have all these codes. This in addition to the p0420 codes make me assume that the catalytic converter is the cause.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181122/8bcc72a9e56b0df930fe0f3ab057dcc9.jpg

Anyone know any cheap alternatives/workarounds (headers/ aftermarket cats) to replace my cats? I have emissions which kinda makes it harder.

[itsbrokeagain]

did you change the thermostat yet? If not do that first, that may be a big culprit in those 02 sensor codes. That and a MAF

[Hakeem530i]

did you change the thermostat yet? If not do that first, that may be a big culprit in those 02 sensor codes. That and a MAF

Thanks. I replaced it earlier this week and fixed cooling issues I had. I’ll try scanning again and see if it goes away. I do still have the metallic rattle though and I already replaced all the pulleys.

https://youtu.be/9rvNRx46dE4

[itsbrokeagain]

Weird. Clear all those codes and see what comes back. If you just replaced the tstat and that code comes back, you may have a defective tstat.

[Hakeem530i]

Well, been having a few issues come up so I guess I now see why the car was selling for $1800. This won’t stop me though.

I’ve never been to a mechanic in the 6 years I’ve been driving BMWs since I repair them all myself but I caved in after being irritated with that noise and having no idea where it was coming from.

Mechanic did a free diagnosis and came back and said the issue was coming from the transmission are and that it was the flywheel and showed pics/list of other issues:

Oil pan is leaking
Oil filter housing is leaking
Transmission is leaking
Power steering is leaking
Diff might be leaking
Valve cover is leaking
Flywheel might be cracked (causing noise)
Belt tensioner also keeps bouncing even after replacing the pulleys and the tensioner twice. The belt slipped off and tore today while driving but fortunately made it home.

It doesn’t bother me honestly because I can fix all the above myself, aren’t expensive and I was planning on doing them in routine maintenance anyways but haven’t gotten around to them yet. I will be taking my car to an Indy to get the flywheel checked out and replace the rear main seal because I have no desire to pull the transmission on jack stands.

I also need to figure out the belt issue this weekend though because I can’t drive it if the belt keeps slipping off.






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[geargrinder]

Belt tensioner also keeps bouncing even after replacing the pulleys and the tensioner twice.

Hmmm. Are you sure you have the belt wrapped properly? And all the right idler pulleys (nothing is the wrong size therefore causing extra slack)? I think there were various varieties of pulleys used in different I6 engines/cars... Are you using the hydraulic or the mechanical tensioner? (either should work honestly tho'...). Any chance the belt is the wrong size?

[Twistytee]

I will be taking my car to an Indy to get the flywheel checked out and replace the rear main seal because I have no desire to pull the transmission on jack stands.

The dual mass flywheels have a tendency to separate at high mileage and can contribute to that noise. I just replaced one along with the clutch and RMS on my Audi. I agree about taking it to a shop unless you have access to a lift. The job is a royal pita laying on your back and using jack stands.

[Hakeem530i]

Hmmm. Are you sure you have the belt wrapped properly? And all the right idler pulleys (nothing is the wrong size therefore causing extra slack)? I think there were various varieties of pulleys used in different I6 engines/cars... Are you using the hydraulic or the mechanical tensioner? (either should work honestly tho'...). Any chance the belt is the wrong size?

I ended up trying two belts and it vibrated with both and I ordered the pulleys from fcpeuro so hopefully they’re the right size as I ordered the ones for the car. My car came with mechanical and I tried the hydraulic and it had the same effect. I’ll try tinkering with it more this weekend. Only thing I remember being off is a broken water pump bolt so I’m not sure if that has anything to do with it since it’s still snug.


The dual mass flywheels have a tendency to separate at high mileage and can contribute to that noise. I just replaced one along with the clutch and RMS on my Audi. I agree about taking it to a shop unless you have access to a lift. The job is a royal pita laying on your back and using jack stands.
Really? Had no idea. The mechanic said they rarely go bad but I assumed it wasn’t true since auto trans in every bmw I have gives issues around the 200k mile mark. Do the autos have the dual mass flywheel as well or is it just the manual?





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[mattmar1]

just the manual trans ones. auto trans has a flex plate (old term, dunno what BMW calls it) that interfaces with the torque converter. torque converter mass is what gives you the flywheel effect.

[syphilouis]

if you do a Euro2 tune it will remove readings from rear O2s and wont have any errors from cats, then you can also run aftermarket headers without cats. as long as the emissions testing only plugs into the obdii port youre good. thats what im running currently. also with your headlight xenon projector swap, the xenon projectors have a ground wire that goes into the housing that isnt present on the halogen housings so you might have to figure out a way to work around that,

[Hakeem530i]

if you do a Euro2 tune it will remove readings from rear O2s and wont have any errors from cats, then you can also run aftermarket headers without cats. as long as the emissions testing only plugs into the obdii port youre good. thats what im running currently. also with your headlight xenon projector swap, the xenon projectors have a ground wire that goes into the housing that isnt present on the halogen housings so you might have to figure out a way to work around that,
Didn’t know tho was a thing. For emissions they only do obd readings so I should be good to go. How’re you liking the aftermarket headers any big difference over stock? Thanks for the heads up about the lights, Hopefully it won’t be a pain to do.


just the manual trans ones. auto trans has a flex plate (old term, dunno what BMW calls it) that interfaces with the torque converter. torque converter mass is what gives you the flywheel effect.
Think they call it a driving plate or something similar if I’m not mistaken. Seeing as the autos only have one flywheel according to realoem I’m thinking the flex plate might be the problem. I’ll be dropping my car off at the mechanic this week and hopefully they’ll figure it out.


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[Hakeem530i]

Pulled the car apart yesterday to fix the belt issue.

What remains of the old belt:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181215/d3539d559796c2dc4bc57f6907a703b7.jpg

Seems like The old mechanical tensioner snapped
After the belt slipped.

Bolt is now stuck in the block
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181215/9d41c3848ccdf590625ebc8d4975afa1.jpg

I won’t be putting a mechanical tensioner back in and seeing that the hydraulic tensioner doesn’t use the current bolt (uses the 3 on the left) I’ll just let it be.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181215/fe859460f9991e0c3525b9040a488413.jpg

I was sure to use washers on all bolts and bouncing seems to have stop and I now have minimal movement which I think is expected with the hydraulic tensioner.

Found out I have a leaking coolant pipe up front so cooling system overhaul is due as well. I’ll just do the whole system and pull the manifold to replace heater pipes and delete current the ccv and run the m56 valve cover.

Will be taking the car to the mechanic to fix the flywheel/flex plate issue. Hopefully I’ll get it back before New Years and seeing as it was my daily, it looks like I’ll be driving the e24 until the 530 is back. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181215/08836002f577392db04db598dcd3bcd6.jpg

[1gr8e39]

Beautiful. Sterling has always been my favorite e39 color. Best color IMO. Congrats on all the work already done. Is your mechanic cool enough to let you do pan gasket/ rear main while trans is out for flywheel? That’s an awesome opportunity to get those checked off the list[emoji106] Did you guys determine it’s definitely the flywheel? Have you thought about what you’ll use as a replacement?
Great car look forward to seeing more progress.

Ps, I always pressure test cooling system to 23-25 psi every time I pick up a new e39, unfortunately e39’s don’t manage heat well and the hose connectors, radiator end tanks, coolant pipes all seem to quit like a cult.
Best of luck


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[Hakeem530i]

Beautiful. Sterling has always been my favorite e39 color. Best color IMO. Congrats on all the work already done. Is your mechanic cool enough to let you do pan gasket/ rear main while trans is out for flywheel? That’s an awesome opportunity to get those checked off the list[emoji106] Did you guys determine it’s definitely the flywheel? Have you thought about what you’ll use as a replacement?
Great car look forward to seeing more progress.

Ps, I always pressure test cooling system to 23-25 psi every time I pick up a new e39, unfortunately e39’s don’t manage heat well and the hose connectors, radiator end tanks, coolant pipes all seem to quit like a cult.
Best of luck


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Thanks, That probably would’ve been a good idea but it’s the first time I’ve ever been to a mechanic since I normally do everything myself so I don’t know them well. They did say they’re going to do the rear main seal though.

I did take it to another shop for diagnosis and they confirmed it was either the flywheel/flexplate but the one I brought it to said they’ll double check before pulling it apart.

My cars an auto so I’ll probably just get another used flywheel if the one I have is cracked. Hopefully I’ll get my car back for New Years with the noise gone then tackle the cooling system.


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[Hakeem530i]

Got my car back from the mechanic. Turns out the flex plate was cracked and rattling around inside.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181228/3288cf7bd885935b10df199a7cd31828.jpg

They also said my oxygen sensor was disconnected and the check engine light went off after it was reconnected.

CCV also needs to be replaced because of the rough idle when cold but I was planning on replacing coolant pipes,hoses and use the m56 manifold while there.

Guess I’ll tackle that next.

[RuskiE39]

Replaced the driveshaft with a brand new one,flex disc and transmission mounts yesterday. The difference is night and day.

My flex disc looked new but whoever replaced the driveshaft before me did a half ass job.

The CSB wasn’t straight, ujoints were bad and for some reason the csb was held in by what I’m assuming was tar. I’m guessing they thought it’d help with vibration.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181122/dfad5fcca22d1efb53fdea1fc27ed5e5.jpg

New trans mount vs 210k mile OEM mounts.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181122/94f33f880e93cc5bed959db04b30e963.jpg

New driveshaft fixed clunking when putting it in reverse, drive and now shifts smoothly. Bad news is it didn’t help with a metallic rattle I was having while accelerating.
I replaced all 4 of my O2 sensors with OEM sensors and still have all these codes. This in addition to the p0420 codes make me assume that the catalytic converter is the cause.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181122/8bcc72a9e56b0df930fe0f3ab057dcc9.jpg

Anyone know any cheap alternatives/workarounds (headers/ aftermarket cats) to replace my cats? I have emissions which kinda makes it harder.


How were you able to tell that the CSB wasn't straight, just through visual inspection? Just curious.

[Hakeem530i]

How were you able to tell that the CSB wasn't straight, just through visual inspection? Just curious.

Probably would be hard to tell under normal circumstances but it was bolted in at an angle with a big difference in space on both sides. Think one bolt was at the red arrow and one close to the green on the other side. Also measured to be sure.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181229/c9cb350208ae6e8b07e74a1fca3a53c8.jpg

[RuskiE39]

Ahhhh, gotcha! Thanks for the visual!

[Hakeem530i]

Decided to do the m56 valve cover conversion today. My car is a 07/02 model so it wasn’t plug and play because I have the bolt in coils rather than the ones that snap in. I’ve heard that this will decrease oil consumption but my only reason for doing this is to avoid having to pull the manifold again to replace the ccv under the manifold when it goes.

Parts:
M56 VC
M56 valve cover gasket
Spark plug gasket
Upgraded coil harness for push in coils (Get the m56 coil harness if you so it can be bolted to the manifold).
Push in coils.

If you have bolt in coils then the connector will have to be repinned before use.

Beginning:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190101/3c6b015a5ae45cb90083deff0c5b1b2d.jpg

End: https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190101/92afe6ac8f59a25431ca9fb79e022871.jpg

This diagram helped me understand the routing of the ccv hoses.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190101/6f3676810fdd633741c10c330fda4306.jpg

This diagram should help understand installing. I placed caps over the parts circled red and disconnected the stock ccv and used the m56 hose to connect the parts circled in blue.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190101/5cab53cd3ea9b74e7083553fa2c22d3c.jpg

The m56 valve cover to intake manifold hose can be used but will have to be trimmed.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190101/a39112690aedaf4764ce8dcd264cf908.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190101/a1ac7ea466c47d12d8805b4254f83388.jpg

I decided to use my dipstick and just capped off the side where the ccv hose will connect to.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190101/dd5ecd05538deb17a8660ad9a47c4b54.jpg

All my old ccv hoses are still under the manifold waiting to be thrown out when I do my coolant pipes under the manifold.

I’ll put the beauty cover back on and test drive tomorrow and checking to see if I have any codes.

Assuming all checks out, the cooling system is next and way overdue. Then the leaking gaskets and then the cosmetics.

[itsbrokeagain]

There you go. You did it exactly how I did it. I do notice the valve cover gaskets can be a PITA but if you use a little grey RTV in the corners of the half moons and a quality gasket it won't leak. Mine did after a year, hada reseal and I just applied a slight layer across the whole bottom to keep it clean.

[Hakeem530i]

There you go. You did it exactly how I did it. I do notice the valve cover gaskets can be a PITA but if you use a little grey RTV in the corners of the half moons and a quality gasket it won't leak. Mine did after a year, hada reseal and I just applied a slight layer across the whole bottom to keep it clean.

Hopefully mine doesn’t leak because I didn’t use any RTV on my gaskets.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190102/ad963cf9a67524ecb7bacf40e4605119.jpg

Guess I’ll drive with the beauty cover off for a bit to monitor leaks.


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[AusE39er]

Man, nice work on that valve cover. Crossing my fingers for no leaks. I'll be doing my intake gasket at some point and unfortunately I'll probably be changing out all the CCV hoses too.

[MotorMouth93]

I hope the VC gasket holds but you will most likely have leaks if you didn’t use a bit of sealant on the half moon corners. Lots of gaskets go on dry but that is not one of them.

[AusE39er]

I hope the VC gasket holds but you will most likely have leaks if you didn’t use a bit of sealant on the half moon corners. Lots of gaskets go on dry but that is not one of them.

I did my second valve cover gasket recently (1st was M52 engine). Did the half moon gasket bit again on the m54. Unfortunately dropping the valve cover onto concrete didn't help and I have the slightest, tiny amount of oil seepage from the front.

[Hakeem530i]

Man, nice work on that valve cover. Crossing my fingers for no leaks. I'll be doing my intake gasket at some point and unfortunately I'll probably be changing out all the CCV hoses too.
Thanks. Seems I’m good to go. No leaks yet.


I hope the VC gasket holds but you will most likely have leaks if you didn’t use a bit of sealant on the half moon corners. Lots of gaskets go on dry but that is not one of them.

Drove with my cover on this week and surprisingly there are no leaks. There was a bit of sealant left in the grooves under the old valve cover that I left so maybe that has something to do with it. Hopefully it stays that way but if that changes I’ll just take it off and put some in the half moon corners.

And for anyone with a pre 09/02 car that’s been wondering if the swap will trigger the CEL(SES light), I Can confirm that it won’t trigger a CEL so you’ll still be able to pass emissions if you do the swap.

You will get a code for misfire if you scan it with a computer though but that won’t affect emissions. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190105/c600d83729ca42616c0cfb581a86611c.jpg

I do have a tiny vacuum leak that I need to check out but I’ll be replacing all my vacuum hoses when I do a cooling system overhaul so I’ll just check then. I’ll also be monitoring my oil consumption in hopes that the swap will help decrease it a bit.

[Hakeem530i]

I’ve been dealing with a small rough idle since I got it back from the mechanic. It’s not terrible but noticeable when just starting the car because the car shakes with the idle a little higher than usual.

They said I had an O2 sensor disconnected and that I have a rough idle that might be CCV related but the car idled fine before so I don’t think that was the case.

I smoke tested my car and managed to find out that it was coming from somewhere behind the intake manifold.

The problem is I’ve already replaced the vacuum caps and all vacuum lines circled in red yesterday with new lines and the leak was still there so I’m no sure where else it could be coming from. I also have the m56 VC so I don’t have the stock ccv to be a problem.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190113/b7d5c8db6d8ef4b376ef5702122fd29f.jpg

I thought the hoses may be slack but after closer inspection it seems that’s not the case and it’s coming from somewhere a little lower around that area.

Not sure where else to check but it seems to be quite a vacuum leak because it made a sound and there was a lot of smoke escaping when I smoke tested it. I’m guessing this is culprit behind the cause of the loss of power I noticed.

I’ll need to track it down soon because it’s causing the P0174 and P0171 codes and I need to clear it to pass emissions.









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[Hakeem530i]

Tried fiddling with the smoke test and kept getting smoke so I wasn’t sure what was wrong. After some research it looks like the pump/solenoid (forgot what it’s called) at the rear driver side behind the engine vents to the air when the car is off so thats probably where my smoke was coming from.

Still have :
P0171
P0174
P0183
P0185

I assume all those are vacuum leaks. Spark plugs, all O2 sensors, fuel filter are new. Checked coils and they’re new as well. Unplugged the Maf while car was running and car almost died so I guess that’s not the problem either. Will take another look at it later this week.

I’ll smoke test from the brake booster side, remove the air box and cover the opening then see where it goes from that. Should get an accurate reading from that.

Also went to change my fuel pump and realised I still have the original one at 218k miles. Fuel filter looked pretty old too but not bad.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190122/4c83c3b06b8754b7738af98413620167.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190122/3e5cb27b1705805c2b47e159b4d1fa8d.jpg

Funny story is I bought a replacement fuel pump from rock auto and after replacing I realised that I had to put the car on run to build up pressure to start the car when it sat for more than 10 minutes. Thought I had a fuel leak but tried putting the old pump back before going under the car and boom it works. Seems like the aftermarket one is a no go.

That’s what I get for buying aftermarket. I’ll run it until I get a replacement and I’ll be sticking with FCPEURO from now on. Reasons like these are why I always buy OEM for essential parts. Swore I bought OEM but Lesson learned.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190122/b9169044a1e6104c68031be2b6ddf073.jpg



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[geargrinder]

Rockauto not a great supplier unfortunately. Some nightmare stories about CS / returns with them. They don't have a phone number anymore for one.

What pump did you buy? There's another thread talking about possibly bad replacement pumps fro 540's but what I see on Rockauto for a 530 is either a Uro (UGGGGH NO) or a Delphi (..mmmmmaybe....) or a Bosch (good... IF its really a Bosch and not some rebranding thing)

[Jason5driver]

The picture above looks like the Bosch pump from the picture on Rock Auto.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8447356&cc=1383274&jsn=391
https://www.rockauto.com/info/23/66149front__ra_p.jpg

[mattmar1]

i usually use the pierburg pump, got my last one from fcpeuro, was under $100

[AusE39er]

Man if I lived in the states I'd get everything from FCP. Even being in Australia, they are the best as far as postage goes. Can't beat that lifetime warranty either.

Piersburg is the way to go for sure.

[Hakeem530i]

Rockauto not a great supplier unfortunately. Some nightmare stories about CS / returns with them. They don't have a phone number anymore for one.

What pump did you buy? There's another thread talking about possibly bad replacement pumps fro 540's but what I see on Rockauto for a 530 is either a Uro (UGGGGH NO) or a Delphi (..mmmmmaybe....) or a Bosch (good... IF its really a Bosch and not some rebranding thing)

Rechecking my order I see it was supposedly a Bosch pump. Looks like it was rebranded which I wasn’t expecting. Hopefully my return experience will be better.


The picture above looks like the Bosch pump from the picture on Rock Auto.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8447356&cc=1383274&jsn=391
https://www.rockauto.com/info/23/66149front__ra_p.jpg

Yup that’s the one.


i usually use the pierburg pump, got my last one from fcpeuro, was under $100
Think I paid close to the same for the Bosch pump. Couldn’t find it on fcpeuro for some reason but it looks like they have it back in stock now.


Man if I lived in the states I'd get everything from FCP. Even being in Australia, they are the best as far as postage goes. Can't beat that lifetime warranty either.

Piersburg is the way to go for sure.
Same here. Bought all my other parts from there and never had a bad experience with them. Shipping always arrives early too.

[bjornk]

Do you have a sucky jet pump thing on your engine ? Isn’t that contraption in the general vicinity you are talking about searching for a vacuum leak?rear engine driver side...coming off the booster...


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[geargrinder]

Rechecking my order I see it was supposedly a Bosch pump. Looks like it was rebranded which I wasn’t expecting.

Yeah. I've had loads of Bosch pumps in my hands ("044", "040", etc.) and that looks about as NOT A BOSCH OEM PUMP as I can imagine. Some racey "Automotive" stamp on the side? Sketchy.

FWIW in that other thread where 540i fuel pumps are being discussed, I posted up that ECS has a "Huco" pump on sale for like $33. An ECS rep rang in to sing the praises of the Huco pump after I said something about "who knows how long that will last". You could give one of those a try at pretty low risk.

Oddly the other day FCP wasn't showing the Pierburg but now its there. $100.

[Hakeem530i]

Yeah. I've had loads of Bosch pumps in my hands ("044", "040", etc.) and that looks about as NOT A BOSCH OEM PUMP as I can imagine. Some racey "Automotive" stamp on the side? Sketchy.

FWIW in that other thread where 540i fuel pumps are being discussed, I posted up that ECS has a "Huco" pump on sale for like $33. An ECS rep rang in to sing the praises of the Huco pump after I said something about "who knows how long that will last". You could give one of those a try at pretty low risk.

Oddly the other day FCP wasn't showing the Pierburg but now its there. $100.

Thanks. Think I’ll stick to the OEM pump for now to avoid having to do this twice again.

I’ll buy it in coming days but will try figuring out my electrical issues until then since it’s getting cold. Still having issues with my driver side headlight coming on. Have to flick the switch or keep the lights on and switch it on and off for it to come on. Tried replacing the LCM, bulbs and ballasts. Checked grounds on the side of the fenders as well. Does anyone know if the headlights are connected to ground anywhere else in the car (under the seats for example)? If not then I’m guessing it might be inside the housing.

[Hakeem530i]

I have some good news and bad news.

Seems I figured out the issue with my lights. It was a bad battery. The car would always start fine but I realised that the lights started to “fade on” On cold start or not come on at all so I expected it to be the battery. Changed and it’s turned on every time since then.

The bad news is I think My m56 valve cover has a bad CCV which is the cause of the p0171 and p0174 codes.

Tried testing it before work with a plastic bag to show how strong vacuum is but kinda hard to do with one hand. Oil cap is also hard to remove which confirms my suspicion. You can also hear how drastic the idle changes.

https://youtu.be/3OZebkIo5LY

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190205/164e2c5b7520463519e9c1fe3381fe4a.jpg

The ccv “membrane” in the m56 valve cover is under a cap on the top as shown above. Problem is the cap is impossible to remove without breaking. The membrane is also takes a month to be delivered from Russia so that’ll take a while.

I got my Vc from 50skid from a junkyard so I’m not sure of its condition but I do have an extra m56 valve cover that I can install that was said to be running prior to removing it.

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[öILBüRNER]

Awesome work so far Hakeem.

It's interesting that the M56 valve cover has a membrane? What is that for exactly? It seems odd that it would have anything to do with the CCV. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

When I did my OEM CCV delete, I kept the M54 valve cover, ran a vacuum hose from the valve cover to a catch can, and from the catch can to a PCV, then a vacuum hose back to the air distribution pipe on the intake manifold. I also plugged the oil return on the dipstick tube.

[Hakeem530i]

Awesome work so far Hakeem.

It's interesting that the M56 valve cover has a membrane? What is that for exactly? It seems odd that it would have anything to do with the CCV. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

When I did my OEM CCV delete, I kept the M54 valve cover, ran a vacuum hose from the valve cover to a catch can, and from the catch can to a PCV, then a vacuum hose back to the air distribution pipe on the intake manifold. I also plugged the oil return on the dipstick tube.

Thanks, IIRC, The m56 membrane is the same as the membrane that’s inside the separator under the manifold. Not exactly sure what it does but I heard it had something to do with vacuum? Not exactly sure.

And You’re correct, it wasn’t the VC after all. After some more testing I found out that it was my MAF sensor causing the codes and the issues on cold start. I disconnected it and the codes went away and it idles perfectly on cold start.

Also noticed the car ran really rough if I removed the dipstick but Issue stopped after I swapped the MAF from my moms car.

Waiting on a used MAF, after that I should have a codeless car.

Changed a few things since I last updated.

I tore the intake boot
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190213/80203697026b93981c58df6f146e75ee.jpg

Replacement
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190213/f39c0888574134cbd02ddace52a57e3a.jpg

Changed my Throttle Body gasket as well while I was there
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190213/eb19aa6360bd64345a306605bfa7aede.jpg


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[geargrinder]

Just a couple terminology tips that might help when searching for other references/threads...


Thanks, IIRC, The m56 membrane is the same as the membrane that’s inside the separator under the manifold.

Yeah more often thats called a "diaphragm". Technically 'membrane' isn't exactly a bad word for it either, but its not what guys generally call it: "the CCV diaphragm".
Yes its supposed to moderate the vacuum to some degree and also act as a check valve (aka one way valve) so worst case if there's a backfire in the intake it can't blow into the crankcase.


I tore a vacuum hose

Yeah and that's normally called an "intake boot" (and the part that tore is the ICV side...) whereas a 'vacuum hose' usually refers to something smaller that is not part of the the main intake tube system. More like the little small diameter side hoses.

[Hakeem530i]

Just a couple terminology tips that might help when searching for other references/threads...



Yeah more often thats called a "diaphragm". Technically 'membrane' isn't exactly a bad word for it either, but its not what guys generally call it: "the CCV diaphragm".
Yes its supposed to moderate the vacuum to some degree and also act as a check valve (aka one way valve) so worst case if there's a backfire in the intake it can't blow into the crankcase.



Yeah and that's normally called an "intake boot" (and the part that tore is the ICV side...) whereas a 'vacuum hose' usually refers to something smaller that is not part of the the main intake tube system. More like the little small diameter side hoses.

Thanks for the clarification. I now feel like a little embarrassed after rereading my post lol. I typed this when I was at work on night shift so I was a bit tired when I posted this. I don’t know how I called it a “vacuum hose” when I literally had to search “Intake boot” to buy it on FCPEuro.

I was thinking of the vacuum hoses at the back of the intake that runs to the air injection valve that I also need to replace. Part #3 and #4

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190213/888deafb09f578241fadae9587819f84.jpg

[Hakeem530i]

Finally got rid of my check engine light and all codes after swapping my MAF sensor.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190219/9684fd96becd941146c0a4bb6b4a80b7.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190219/ea517033b1a19b83d1e093d586fec2b3.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190219/7c11b5e5233ce0b3815790ea86e5e0e2.jpg

I’m also still running an m56 valve cover on my pre 09/02 car so I can confirm now that swapping covers and harness from a later car won’t trigger the light and that my code was unrelated.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190219/d73db41b9d6960eade0d2a0f0ada512f.jpg

Next is :
fuel pump
Finding the source of my car vibration at 75-80mph - Need to check my tires and the CSB Mounting to recheck if the shop remounted it correctly after removing my driveshaft
OFHG
Cooling system
Lighting upgrade


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[Hakeem530i]

It really sucks that the pierburg pumps are no longer available.

Almost every aftermarket fuel pump I try doesn’t have a check valve, which means I have to prime the car every time the car sits to get it to start.

I replaced my pump with a Quantum Fuel pump (due to the $60 cost). Works fine except for the issue mentioned the above.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190407/24ae32d4b77245c9300a528b2b5bfb1f.jpg

To try to fix the issue, I installed an in-line check valve that’s been working for a few weeks but began acting up.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190407/204962faa757e7a952975f85ffb49190.jpg

I’ll try replacing the check valve. This would be a lot easier if we had an Pierburg pumps back :(.


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[itsbrokeagain]

Nice to see you figured out the lean codes. Mine was throwing a p0174 and turned out to be the disa valve o-ring was shot.

[Hakeem530i]

Nice to see you figured out the lean codes. Mine was throwing a p0174 and turned out to be the disa valve o-ring was shot.
Yup. It took me a min to figure out. Now my car is throwing a P0420 code which I'm assuming is the cats because I already replaced all my O2 sensors. I'm hoping I can clear the code and get it to pass emissions because I don't feel like going through all that hassle to replace it.

[Hakeem530i]

After owning my car for almost a year I decided to overhaul the cooling system. I even pulled the manifold to replace the heater pipes.

Also replaced the brake booster vacuum pump.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190606/7dab415b3aba28ee2c4565ae01ca6941.jpg

Did the oil filter housing gasket and vanos oil line while I was there.

Manifold gaskets were done as well as ccv delete since I have the m56 manifold.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190606/1740119d0602d4daf0b00e47407f5853.jpg

This is how my engine bay looks now.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190606/8341c787bc509e2a255e9a4e9bf652dd.jpg

I've had to disconnect my maf sensor due to a vacuum leak but found it was due to a missing vacuum cap. Car runs fine with the maf connected now.

Only thing I have left to replace is my cats and I will be done with all maintenance. I just passed emissions so I have a year to take care of it.

According to my list, so far I've done :

Thermostat - 7/18
Oxygen sensor - 7/18
Oil - 7/18
Top Power steering reservoir/lines - 8/18
Brake pads/rotor/sensors -9/18
Water Pump - 11/18
Spark plugs - 11/18
Thermostat - 12/18
Idler/ hydraulic tensioner - 12/18
HID bulbs - 12/18
PS/Idler/WP Pulleys - 12/18
Driveshaft - 11/18
Guibo - 11/18
Transmission mount - 11/18
Flywheel/Flex Disc - 12/18
Oil - 12/18
CCV - 1/19
VC Gasket - 1/19
Spark Plug Gasket - 1/19
M56 VC - 1/19
Battery - 2/19
Tires - 3/19
OFHG - 5/19
Vanos oil line - 5/19
Oil change - 5/19 - 220000
Radiator
Coolant pipes
Coolant hoses
Brake booster vacuum pump

Almost there

[ctrout]

Nice work, and a great thread. I just picked up a 2001 530i/5 a little over a month ago, so I've been doing some similar work. Mine only had a few minor issues though. Oh, and I paid twice as much for my car initially. I wonder if you total everything up, including the purchase price, if we would have similar expenses. I'm into mine for a total of $4661 right now. That doesn't include the Dinan CAI that I installed just because I wanted to. It does include cosmetic bodywork though. Here's everything that I've done so far. http://www.motorlogbook.com/ctrout/530i

[Hakeem530i]

Nice work, and a great thread. I just picked up a 2001 530i/5 a little over a month ago, so I've been doing some similar work. Mine only had a few minor issues though. Oh, and I paid twice as much for my car initially. I wonder if you total everything up, including the purchase price, if we would have similar expenses. I'm into mine for a total of $4661 right now. That doesn't include the Dinan CAI that I installed just because I wanted to. It does include cosmetic bodywork though. Here's everything that I've done so far. http://www.motorlogbook.com/ctrout/530i

That's fair. I just calculated and if I were to add everything up (including car cost) I'd be at $5,683. $2000 of that was emergency maintenance. $1800 for the car, the rest is for preventative maintenance. I do have brand new brakes, reman driveshaft, ccv (m56 valve cover) and had to take my car to the shop to replace a cracked flywheel and pay for labor so those weren't cheap. I also replaced everything in my engine bay except for cps. O2 sensors, vacuum hoses etc are all new.

My car also needs cats so I'll be up to $6400 when done assuming I wont pay for labor(Going with schmeidmann or cheaper if I go pre-facelift cats). Honestly I could have a running car for 1/4 of what I paid but after bad experiences with badly maintained BMWs in the family I'm very OCD when it comes to maintenance. When buying this car I kinda decided I'll take the hit and do whatever it takes to have a "perfect" car and not half-ass anything or have to replace twice.

So far, I've been locked inside a car, had one catch on fire, have the hood fly open at 50mph, had the sunroof fly off lol, had the muffler fall off, had gas leak, had car overheat on my first day of college etc, so I'm pulling my scanner out as soon as the SES light, airbag light or any light comes on and popping the hood if I ever hear a peep lol. I still don't regret my purchase though and would gladly do it again.

[ctrout]

Oh, I agree completely with your reasoning. When I got mine, I was looking for one with the 5 speed manual, exceptional body and interior, and preferably below 50k miles. I was trying to keep my purchase price to $3500. There were two that I found in the U.S. One was in Maryland, the other in Portland, OR. The one in Portland was close enough to drive home in one day, so I flew out and picked it up on a Sunday. I broke my budget by $200. I just got lucky that it had been very well cared for and there was very little that it needed. I enjoy spending time maintaining my BMW, so I look for things to fix, maintain, or upgrade constantly.

[Hakeem530i]

The lens took 2 months to get delivered. Finally threw them on the car.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190702/c2d544afa055c3afd27136a21c494745.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190702/2a6098d29023f37879d09d430b9492e4.jpg

Looks alot better than the Depot ones. I tried wiring up the quads with relays but they flicker on cold start when I turn them on. I talked to TRS and they said I need a capacitor so I have them wired as bixenons for now until I wire up the capacitor.


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[98OrientBlue]

I just posted this on a separate thread. I get around the flicker by using standard automotive relays. The coil turn-on time is long enough to suppress the LCM test probes.

[Hakeem530i]

I just posted this on a separate thread. I get around the flicker by using standard automotive relays. The coil turn-on time is long enough to suppress the LCM test probes.

Thanks for the tip. Do you have a link to the specific relay you used?


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[98OrientBlue]

Thanks for the tip. Do you have a link to the specific relay you used?


Any automotive relay will work. I think I got mine at RadioShack

[Hakeem530i]

Any automotive relay will work. I think I got mine at RadioShack

Got it to work by coding off xenons. Only downside is it also disabled the angel eyes. I'm not worried about it now since I plan on eventually running it from the ignition. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190703/b004c55c047b2ed9d9325a8d415356a4.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190703/bbbdd27a77b07a43b15cb61e12a3ebed.jpg


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[itsbrokeagain]

Looking good buddy. My 0171 and 0174 codes on my X5 were due to a crappy DISA O ring. The whole unit was acting up anyway so I just replaced it.

Sucks to hear about the fuel pump, mine was crapping out after sitting for months so I ordered a cheap one off amazon just to freshen it up. Guess I'm going to have fun with losing prime lol

[Hakeem530i]

Looking good buddy. My 0171 and 0174 codes on my X5 were due to a crappy DISA O ring. The whole unit was acting up anyway so I just replaced it.

Sucks to hear about the fuel pump, mine was crapping out after sitting for months so I ordered a cheap one off amazon just to freshen it up. Guess I'm going to have fun with losing prime lol

Lol brave. I'd never order a fuel pump from Amazon. Knowing my luck it'd die the moment Im miles away from home.

Got everything to work :).
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190705/e9a31733b964e44e5f2bfee7d96b02be.jpg


UPDATE: Also found out I have a power steering leak, need cats and have an oil pan/rear main seal leak :/.

[Hakeem530i]

Been messing with wiring and decided to wire my angel eyes as DRLs. I noticed they're alot brighter than they were

Before:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190708/dbd75aa6f49e3ce1769d5c4176b8456c.jpg
After:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190708/1432efdb0264eacefb77dd40881bc0fc.jpg

First pic was in the shade, second was in the sun light. Another thing I noticed was that since my Angel eyes are wired to the ignition, I can leave my switch all the way to the right with the car off and not get a warning because all lights turn off with the ignition. Next I'll be wiring one pair of projectors to come in the parking lamp switch position and another to come on with the regular position.

Been trying to keep up with maintenance as well. I've also found someone local to me selling cats for $80, ordered the OPG, hoses to fix my washer fluid system, hoses to fix my SAP error codes.

[Hakeem530i]

Well alot has been going on and wanted to give it a week or two before posting an update.

Installed cats : Car feels alot less restricted and It was a PITA to install. I removed the engine mounts and jacked up the engine from the oil pan.

Replaced power steering orings : Had a huge leak when parking my car. Replaced the two orings at front and haven't seen a leak since.

Replaced air pump hose, now my car no longer sounds like a jet on cold start.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190725/54c7b5be90932066eb1e60f67e312d38.jpg

While replacing the cats, I also replaced the flange gaskets and exhaust manifold gaskets. Also noticed PO put an O2 sensors in on bank 2. I won't be needing it since my cats and O2s are good.

My hood slammed while I had the engine jacked up and hasn't stayed up since. Damn thing hit me in the head, so I decided to replace the hood and truck lifts and the difference is night and day. I noticed I do have to slam my trunk to get it to shut now so I will need a trunk latch. I already replaced it but noticed this latch is seized too. Will probably have to order a new one because I've had no luck with used.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190725/3d956492704093f63ee6f9d57becf50e.jpg

Fixed my non-working washer fluid system. Had to run a hose from the wheel well to the engine bay. Pretty straight forward. So now I have no leaks :). I did get a p0492 code but that shouldn't be a hard fix.

I've been enjoying my quads but don't want 4 low beams on 24/7 when running my low beams. Its Overkill tbh and I can see more than enough with my two stock low beam position projectors. In fact I almost think they're too bright lol. To remedy this, I got the wiring figured out to wire my 2 stock low beams to trigger with the angel eye switch position and have the other two turn on when the switch is all the way to the right. Will be doing that later this week.

[Hakeem530i]

Forgot I even had a thread on here. Glad to have a log of the things I replaced. Anyways, my car ended up with a small fire in the engine bay due to a torn brake line. Fortunately I had a few bottles of water in my car and put it out before anything worse happened right after it ignited. I had to leave my car at a gas station overnight, came back for it the next morning. After, I replaced every single line with stainless steel lines. Ones in the engine bay were interesting to get out due to lack of space but rest went smoothly.

Looks like my car managed to destroy another LCM, so I used that as an excuse to buy an LCM4 for $60. I recall having seeing water leak some time back, so I'll be tracking that down before putting it in and will need to figure out how to code it. I'll also need to do my vapor barrier and replace my cracked windshield cowl.

[energizedmortal]

Forgot I even had a thread on here. Glad to have a log of the things I replaced. Anyways, my car ended up with a small fire in the engine bay due to a torn brake line. Fortunately I had a few bottles of water in my car and put it out before anything worse happened right after it ignited. I had to leave my car at a gas station overnight, came back for it the next morning. After, I replaced every single line with stainless steel lines. Ones in the engine bay were interesting to get out due to lack of space but rest went smoothly.

Looks like my car managed to destroy another LCM, so I used that as an excuse to buy an LCM4 for $60. I recall having seeing water leak some time back, so I'll be tracking that down before putting it in and will need to figure out how to code it. I'll also need to do my vapor barrier and replace my cracked windshield cowl.

Excellent work Hakeem530i great thread. I've got a 2001 530i with a rear main seal and oil pan leak that I hope to address asap even though I'm only consuming 1 quart every 3000 miles.
Thanks for reminding us that those brake lines in the engine bay can catch fire going to order a stainless steel set and get some flare wrenches.

[Twistytee]

Excellent work Hakeem530i great thread. I've got a 2001 530i with a rear main seal and oil pan leak that I hope to address asap even though I'm only consuming 1 quart every 3000 miles.
Thanks for reminding us that those brake lines in the engine bay can catch fire going to order a stainless steel set and get some flare wrenches.

you may find the RMS is fine and it’s just excess oil from an old/brittle OPG. When I had a PPI done on my car the mechanic noted he thought it had a leaking ream main seal but it’s been dry as a bone since I replaced the oil pan gasket.