bigfwop
03-25-2018, 10:17 PM
I thought I would give some insight into a busy weekend I had with the whip.
I recently purchased a 2008 335i 6 spd man that had a few issues.
Issue number 1# ( Light vibration from in 1st and 2nd at lower rpm when accelerating.)
Issue number 2# ( Gas would leak after filling up past half a tank.)
I will try and consolidate as much information as I can since very little was found online.I thought I would use the same post as 70 of the work is exactly the same for both jobs
Things to note when proceeding with this work. Safety is priority and don't attempt this work unless you have the appropriate tools.
Cause of Issues
Drive shaft center support bearing rubber mold was torn broken in multiple areas.
Gas tank plastic collar was broken in half not allowing the screw collar to seal the opening for the Fuel pump. After some research I found this part is non-replaceable and the entire tank needs to be replaced. :)
Parts acquired
I purchased a center support bearing via Pelican parts and locally sourced a tank for a steal of $150. (Quarry motors in naples FL) Prices vary but are generally around 250-400
I also purchased a new guibo from BMW as the one on the car showed since of age. (couldn't trust aftermarket so i bit the 200 dollar bullet)
Extra Guibo/drive shaft bolts and nuts as need. I bought extra for backup
an extra jack and 4 or 5 foot plywood to drop tank with ease and exhaust gaskets mine were rusted :(
bearing removal tool and harmonic balancer removal tool which can both be rented from autozone for for under 60 bucks for both
50 mm open-ended wrench to remove lock collar from rear diff to drive shaft output
1 and 1/4 inch pvc pipe to press in new bearing. This pipe clearance is perfect and will fit perfectly over the splines and sit right on top of the inner part of the metal bearing. Ensure that the pipe has no angle when it was cut to ensure
that it is pressed in without any issues
for Fuel tank replacement:Plastic trim tools! New rubber seals for fuel pump
Work you NEED to do: (AND CANNOT SHORTCUT YOUR WAY THOUGH OR find an alternative route for.) PB blast the fuck out of your exhuast bolts overnight for several days if needed
Exhaust needs to be dropped The interior center console and rear console need to be remove in order to free the fucking parking brake lines that run under the fuel tank. I will link the posts that I referenced
Fuel tank inlet from the gas cap is a one way port so minimal gas will fall out however I recommend using all the gas you can in order to reduce weight.
Disconnect the battery before starting any work
Side note Take your time and don't rush this job. This job is feasible with by yourself however that's if everything goes perfectly. I am lucky enough owning a second car so I really took my time. I managed to do 95 percent of the work in 2 days but I suggest getting as much help as you can or you may find yourself in a shitty situation when you've cross-thredded or stripped a screw or something like that.
I will update this post later on. PM with questions if you have any.
I recently purchased a 2008 335i 6 spd man that had a few issues.
Issue number 1# ( Light vibration from in 1st and 2nd at lower rpm when accelerating.)
Issue number 2# ( Gas would leak after filling up past half a tank.)
I will try and consolidate as much information as I can since very little was found online.I thought I would use the same post as 70 of the work is exactly the same for both jobs
Things to note when proceeding with this work. Safety is priority and don't attempt this work unless you have the appropriate tools.
Cause of Issues
Drive shaft center support bearing rubber mold was torn broken in multiple areas.
Gas tank plastic collar was broken in half not allowing the screw collar to seal the opening for the Fuel pump. After some research I found this part is non-replaceable and the entire tank needs to be replaced. :)
Parts acquired
I purchased a center support bearing via Pelican parts and locally sourced a tank for a steal of $150. (Quarry motors in naples FL) Prices vary but are generally around 250-400
I also purchased a new guibo from BMW as the one on the car showed since of age. (couldn't trust aftermarket so i bit the 200 dollar bullet)
Extra Guibo/drive shaft bolts and nuts as need. I bought extra for backup
an extra jack and 4 or 5 foot plywood to drop tank with ease and exhaust gaskets mine were rusted :(
bearing removal tool and harmonic balancer removal tool which can both be rented from autozone for for under 60 bucks for both
50 mm open-ended wrench to remove lock collar from rear diff to drive shaft output
1 and 1/4 inch pvc pipe to press in new bearing. This pipe clearance is perfect and will fit perfectly over the splines and sit right on top of the inner part of the metal bearing. Ensure that the pipe has no angle when it was cut to ensure
that it is pressed in without any issues
for Fuel tank replacement:Plastic trim tools! New rubber seals for fuel pump
Work you NEED to do: (AND CANNOT SHORTCUT YOUR WAY THOUGH OR find an alternative route for.) PB blast the fuck out of your exhuast bolts overnight for several days if needed
Exhaust needs to be dropped The interior center console and rear console need to be remove in order to free the fucking parking brake lines that run under the fuel tank. I will link the posts that I referenced
Fuel tank inlet from the gas cap is a one way port so minimal gas will fall out however I recommend using all the gas you can in order to reduce weight.
Disconnect the battery before starting any work
Side note Take your time and don't rush this job. This job is feasible with by yourself however that's if everything goes perfectly. I am lucky enough owning a second car so I really took my time. I managed to do 95 percent of the work in 2 days but I suggest getting as much help as you can or you may find yourself in a shitty situation when you've cross-thredded or stripped a screw or something like that.
I will update this post later on. PM with questions if you have any.