1995 325is Shifting Issue

[TalianStalion13]

Hi everyone,

Sometimes when I am at a complete stop, say at a stoplight, I find it difficult to get into first gear, as it takes a littles more force to push it into gear. I definitely feel some resistance which subsides once it finally moves into first and it doesn't take a lot of force just a good push. But most of the time I have no problem and it slides right in nice and smooth. Also, if I'm slightly crawling forward, it goes in just fine as well. All the other gears are perfect and the clutch works great. The car has 54k miles and I changed the trans fluid a couple months ago (redline atf).

Would appreciate any opinions and thoughts. Thanks!

[jclausen]

when your stopped try going into second then first this may help

[TalianStalion13]

when your stopped try going into second then first this may help

I'll give it a try and thanks for the reply.

[ross1]

when your stopped try going into second then first this may help
All this does is over work the second gear synchro ring instead
Sounds like OP's clutch hydraulics are failing.
Check fluid level first, inspect for leaks at the slave and master cyl.

[jclausen]

It helps line up first gear I have been doing this since I was 15 I'm now 60 and I have never had any problems with syncros.it is important to feel the box when shifting and not just jam it into gear. Plus with heavy flywheel engines you can't shift them super quick. True there could be other problems but you might as well try this first if you are not doing it.

[MarcoZandrini]

Has the tranny gear lube ever been changed? Now might be a good time to change it. Use a synthetic gear lube 4 (GL4). Do not use a GL5 as that’s designed for the differential and us too slick for the synchros.

[ross1]

Has the tranny gear lube ever been changed? Now might be a good time to change it. Use a synthetic gear lube 4 (GL4). Do not use a GL5 as that’s designed for the differential and us too slick for the synchros.
That redline might be too slick as well.
OP, are you hearing any noise when trying to engage first? A whirring perhaps?

[TalianStalion13]

That redline might be too slick as well.
OP, are you hearing any noise when trying to engage first? A whirring perhaps?

No there isn't any odd noise. And again oftentimes the shifting feels great and there is no resistance getting into first.

[bmwdirtracer]

Personally, I'd suspect the shifter bushings.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BF33-USA-01-1995-E36-BMW-325is&diagId=25_0577

parts 7, 2, and 12.


I also prefer a manual gear oil for a manual trans; Redline MTL is what I use.

If these items fail to correct the issue, the detent pistons and sleeves may need renewal.

[TalianStalion13]

Personally, I'd suspect the shifter bushings.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=BF33-USA-01-1995-E36-BMW-325is&diagId=25_0577

parts 7, 2, and 12.


I also prefer a manual gear oil for a manual trans; Redline MTL is what I use.

If these items fail to correct the issue, the detent pistons and sleeves may need renewal.


Thanks for the reply. I'm hoping to change the bushings soon. From what I have read this seems like it can be somewhat challenging so I'm curious if there is a good guide on how to do this. Also, how much would a shop charge to do this (in the event I'm not up for the challenge:))?

[TalianStalion13]

Just to update, I was able to replace all the bushings. Everything is much tighter and shifting is really smooth now. The foam piece in the joint was completely destroyed but other than that the other bushings showed average wear, nothing too serious.
As far as shifting into first, it seems that it is less noticeable but occasionally I still feel a little resistance but nothing too bad.
It seems that the alignment is occasionally off the mark but other times it feels spot on. So for now everything seems to be working fairly well!

[TalianStalion13]

Welp, I'm back looking for more help! I still am having troubling getting into first but I have some more symptoms.
-It seems to happen when the car is cold; once it warms up everything works better
-It is difficult to get in gear when I have my foot on the brake; if I release the brake it slides in easier
-The clutch engagements seems fine; it is about halfway to the floor and the clutch doesn't feel spongy or make any noise
-the transmission doesn't make any weird noises and there is no grinding
-I also tried the test where you have the car running and put the shifter to the resistance point and then shut off the car. Assuming I did it correct, once I shut off the car the shifter moved right in to first. So maybe the clutch isn't fully engaging? All the other gears seem to work fine.

I have all these symptoms but I cant find the source of the problem. I also don't want to pull out the transmission if I don't have to. Any ideas?

[ross1]

You have either a not fully DIS-engaging clutch, probably a hydraulic issue, lazy synchro(s) or too slick a gear oil, not likely in a box that calls for ATF.
Is it difficult to engage first coming to a stop, or any downshift for that matter?
My money is on the clutch hydraulics failing. Start by checking clutch hydr. fluid level. Does it share the reservoir with brakes?? I've seen shared reservoirs get low due to brake wear or leaks which starve the clutch hydraulics and cause the symptoms you describe.
If fluid is low, fill and bleed the clutch hydraulics. Also check the clutch slave and master for leaks. Keep in mind a failing clutch master doesn't need to leak externally to be bad.
The clutch is somewhat self bleeding if have the patience to let any air rise and work itself out. Pumping the pedal a zillion times will sometimes do it.
If filling and bleeding resolves or improves the situation you have your answer.
If it's still tough to disengage the clutch and no leaks I'd strongly suspect the clutch master cylinder.

[TalianStalion13]

You have either a not fully DIS-engaging clutch, probably a hydraulic issue, lazy synchro(s) or too slick a gear oil, not likely in a box that calls for ATF.
Is it difficult to engage first coming to a stop, or any downshift for that matter?
My money is on the clutch hydraulics failing. Start by checking clutch hydr. fluid level. Does it share the reservoir with brakes?? I've seen shared reservoirs get low due to brake wear or leaks which starve the clutch hydraulics and cause the symptoms you describe.
If fluid is low, fill and bleed the clutch hydraulics. Also check the clutch slave and master for leaks. Keep in mind a failing clutch master doesn't need to leak externally to be bad.
The clutch is somewhat self bleeding if have the patience to let any air rise and work itself out. Pumping the pedal a zillion times will sometimes do it.
If filling and bleeding resolves or improves the situation you have your answer.
If it's still tough to disengage the clutch and no leaks I'd strongly suspect the clutch master cylinder.

No problem when downshifting to first or other gear. The reservoir is shared with the brakes. The fluid is right below max, right where I remember it being a few months ago.
Are there any noticeable symptoms to a failing clutch master cylinder aside from what I have described? Also, if that is the issue, shouldn't I experience problems shifting into other gears?

[TalianStalion13]

Last thought on this, I am wondering if it possible that the slave rod isn't fully extending? Despite the pedal feeling fairly good. Could a small amount of air cause this? What would happen if I extended the length of the rod somehow? Otherwise I think I'll have to live with this for now.

[ross1]

No problem when downshifting to first or other gear. The reservoir is shared with the brakes. The fluid is right below max, right where I remember it being a few months ago.
Are there any noticeable symptoms to a failing clutch master cylinder aside from what I have described? Also, if that is the issue, shouldn't I experience problems shifting into other gears?
Try pumping the clutch a couple of times when engaging first, see if that improves things. If so then I'd think the hydraulics need attention, bleed or if no leaks then I think it's pointing to a failing master unable to displace enough fluid to actuate the clutch slave. Otherwise gearbox problem, maybe just inappropriate lube.

Does it ever grind when you engage first? You said no noises, a whirring would indicate a busy synchro.
Is this your first manual shift car? I'm just wondering if you aren't just experiencing normal gearbox behavior. Selecting a gear while at a standstill often require s nudge of the gear lever.

[bmwdirtracer]

I would recommend a manual transmission fluid. BG SynchroShift is particularly good at assisting synchros regain a bit of grip.

https://www.ebay.com/i/401107536454?chn=ps

[TalianStalion13]

I removed the slave and did some manual pumping to make sure there wasn't any air in there. I felt the fork and it was solid in place. I guess I'll have to either try some manual fluid or just wait to see if any symptoms pop up. At its most difficult, shifting into first doesn't feel like any other manual I've had. Other times yeah there is that slight push required. Anyhow thanks all for the help. I'm sure I'll be back if anything gets worse.