Heater Valve internals Info

[JThomp33]

I am in the process of rebuilding my heater valve - pt #64118391417 and am struggling finding a gasket/o-ring repair kit. There is a seller LRNJ on Amazon/eBay-

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075TJ65DT/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1516205602&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=e34+heater+valve&dpPl=1&dpID=4182GJkzlrL&ref=plSrch

But the kit listed seems to be for an E38/39 heater valve pt # 64118374994. My question is- does anyone know if the internals for the solenoid are identical/interchangeable?

There is one other option- from the Ukraine:

https://m.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Heater-Valve-Repair-Kit-E39-E38-E53-E34-E32-E31-E65-E66-E60-E61/112177753023?hash=item1a1e50abbf:g:8rsAAOSw3RZaL-c5

Does anyone have experience ordering either? Suggestions? Wish I caught Furrulli when they offered the kit :/

Thanks all!

[shogun]

whichever you order from, they all are probably made in China and maybe even the same factory. The sellers in Ukraine and Lithuania just buy them in large quantities from the wholesellers.
I would order a kit where it says made for E32, E34, E31 heater valves, and including the cone valves. (just in case yours are broken)
When you install the new cone valves, check and compare the shaft length of the cone valve. I remember a case on the German E34 forum last year where one bough such a kit and the shaft of the supplied cone valve was shorter, did not work with these. So he used the old cone valves with the new seals and that worked fine.

[JThomp33]

Thanks Shogun!

I ended up purchasing the following kit which did include the E34 and E32 in the listing:

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Heater-Control-Valve-Repair-Kit-for-BMW-E39-E38-E53-E34-E32-E31-E65-E66-/112167734289?txnId=1762753444001

I took apart a used heater valve (Bosch) and the cones / internals are all fine (cleaned them up as best I can). I plan on pulling the OEM heater valve from my car and do not want to do so until I have a solid gasket set. Photos to come!

[moroza]

I'd be interested to see photos of the overhaul.

[DamnedYankee34]

Just a note to add... My heater control valve failed on my '95 E34 this spring. I ordered a replacement seal kit online and when I removed the control valve from my car I found the seals to be shot but it was obvious that the seals in the replacement kit were not the same as the seals in my factory control valve. I replaced them anyway and the control valve did not work.

It seems that there are aftermarket replacement control valves (made in China) that will replace the factory Bosch units but the internal seals are different. Most of the seal kits available online appear to be for these aftermarket kits and will not work in the Bosch control valves.

There are no replacement seals for the Bosch control valves, you have to replace the whole unit. I got one from NAPA for about $220.00. The Chinese units are about $75-$100.

The new control valve worked fine.

Also the control valve is a snap to replace if you take a minute to remove the bracket that holds the two diagnostic connectors just in front of the control valve.

[q20v]

Thanks for the info everyone, I've been meaning to do this for a while now and just ordered the same kit as JThomp33.

[JThomp33]

Back to the rebuild. After I pulled the OEM broken unit, I realized a few 2 of the 6 screws were rusted and no longer had threads. Did the old dremel trick -cut a slit into each and used a flat head to remove. Pulled the OEM apart - which was slightly different than the Bosch replacement unit. Some photos below:

Valve Kit from the URL above:
637402

Guts of a heater valve:
637403

Both units disassembled and gasket comparison:
637404

[JThomp33]

... My post above got a little messed up after deleting attachments.

Moving on- all items disassembled, I then proceeded to clean everything internal. Photos below:

Cleaned plungers, springs and cones:
637407

Cleaned top plate:
637408

And now the fun part began. If you do this- please use a tremendous amount of care and patience. Initially, I could not figure out where the middle gaskets went. Further investigation revealed I would need to remove the brown valve sleeves. This turned out to be a complete PITA:

Removed/broken/slightly damaged, etc - you get the idea:
637409

I needed to do all 4 (2 in each unit) due to one breaking and one cracking - hence patience.

View down the valve cylinder:
637411

Removed, new gaskets installed for the cones and placed back in:
637410

.... to be continued courtesy of the 5-photo upload rule.....

[JThomp33]

Final view of the unit before assembly (Sorry for the wacky upload - saved the image all 4 ways and still uploads upside down. 1st world problems....)
637417

Heater valve assembled along with replacement aux water pump:
637418


Bought all new hoses, and the 3 rubber mounts for the heater valve. Keep in mind this was all done and replaced in mid-February (Mid winter in PA)- and has been working ever since. I bought a Behr heater core that I planned to do all summer, and still have yet to take on. I plan to use this DIY as a reference:

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1328893-*DIY-E34-heater-core-R-amp-R-(IHKA-content)

Side note: I have a bunch of photos from last summer from when I my car mysteriously cut off while driving down the road. Electronics were fine, but it would not start. This was shortly after I installed a Walboro 255 Fuel pump. I ended up doing the following:
- pulling and cleaned the fuel rail
- replacing both in and out fuel lines
- replaced fuel pressure regulator
- Pulled, cleaned, and "rebuilt" my fuel injectors (kit from Dr. Injector)

Ended up working and still never found out what the real "issue" was.

[jehu]

great post.

I recently replaced the original water valves with one from ebay. These had a German flag on the box, cost about $50 and they do not allow sufficient fluid through to create the same degree of heating..

I do not have the aux pump in line but even when getting RPMs up it clearly isn't getting as hot at with originals so I'll be trying this repair since now new BMW ones are over $500

[JThomp33]

Thanks!

It is unfortunate that the OEM heater valves can cost more than a used E34 or parts car, although I am fairly certain the OEM BMW heater valve was stamped with the 'bosch' logo. I may be wrong is saying the OEM may be bosch?

All this work due to two small pieces of plastic decided to break:
637471
(Top of the water pump and the middle of the lower heater valve assembly)