URO center support bearing, should I risk it?

[gdavid]

I've used some URO parts before and 50% of the time I regret it, I'm about to replace my center support bearing and one again I'm tempted to cheap out and get a URO because it is $14 and the alternate is $56. Their strut mounts I used were crap but the water pump and steering pump pulleys were fine. Has anyone used their CSB?

I doubt mine is bad but I've got a squirrel nest crammed between my transmission tunnel insulation and the sheet metal of the tunnel so I'm dropping the exhaust and the transmission support bracket to be able to access above the transmission and figure I should replace it while I'm in there. I can't see what is going on up there but there is an intermittent sound like a dragging brake pad coming from the driveshaft area when the car is rolling, when I got under the car to look, I noticed the insulation above the transmission is sagging and acorns came falling out when I tried to adjust it. I suspect the nest is pushing a heat shield into the drive shaft or the CSB is going out.

For what it's worth, my car is an auto which I understand is easier on these bearings.

[pbonsalb]

If you don’t mind losing the money and doing the job over again.

[gdavid]

If you don’t mind losing the money and doing the job over again.

Thanks, you're right. I went with something else.

I guess I shouldn't run with scissors either?

[samy01]

doesnt really make sense to me to replace it because of that. its not like you already did the biggest part of the job by going under there. especially when its not bad anyway

[gdavid]

doesnt really make sense to me to replace it because of that. its not like you already did the biggest part of the job by going under there. especially when its not bad anyway

As long as I have the exhaust out, I would like to have the part on hand in case I need it. Unlike my other cars, few parts are readily available at my local auto parts stores.

[jmo69]

I replaced this part this summer and bought one at AutoZone, had it pressed onto the drive shaft and found out the mounting holes were too close together. Put a Meyle from FCP in instead.

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[gdavid]

I used a precision branded unit I bought off of amazon. The one on the car was probably original and was bad and the inner race was seized on the shaft so it came off with a grinder and chisel. The insulation above the transmission hanging down into the guibo making an annoying racket. The worst part of the job was definitely getting the nuts off of the header pipes. I wrung off 5 of 6 and ruined at least one O2 sensor in the process of removing the broken studs. I put no-foul spark plug adapters on the post cat O2 sensors, hopefully this will prevent the occasional P0420 and P0430 codes I get.

[jmo69]

I replaced this part this summer and bought one at AutoZone, had it pressed onto the drive shaft and found out the mounting holes were too close together. Put a Meyle from FCP in instead.

Sent from my SM-G950U using TapatalkAs far as I know the one I bought at Autozone was their own brand and not a Uro.

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[URO Parts]

Hi everyone, we sell several thousand of these Driveshaft Supports annually and have recently improved the design with better bearing retention within the rubber diaphragm. The updated version should be available in a month or two.

The bearing is a high-quality INA bearing, as we try to use name-brand bearings whenever possible. Most URO idlers and pulleys contain NTN or NSK brand bearings, which gives us an edge over the competition since the bearing is typically the point of eventual failure for this type of part. If anyone has any questions or needs any assistance with any of our parts, please don't hesitate to send a PM or email "sales at uro parts dot com" (remove spaces).


Their strut mounts I used were crap but the water pump and steering pump pulleys were fine.

How long ago did you get the strut mounts? These have been revised twice over the last five years, hopefully we've already corrected the issue you experienced. Will send PM to make sure you've been taken care of.

[gdavid]

I appreciate that you're following up and shame on me for not returning the strut mounts at the time (last summer) my time and effort to swap them back out was a greater concern and I left them in place. They still make the occasional crunchy sound and feel when I'm making sharp turns. One day I will get around to it. The center support bearing is a similar part in this respect, relatively low cost part but a lot of effort to access and change out. Like the vast majority of people on here, I do my own repairs so my labor is cheap but the time it takes to repeat jobs due to faulty parts is infuriating, I would prefer to be spending time with my family. For a part that is easy to replace or won't leave me stranded, sure I'll go cheap but otherwise my time and concern for reliability outweighs cost.

I am very much a capitalist and realize how cut throat the auto parts business is especially as more non-traditional vendors are selling them. I hope you are successful at raising the quality and being profitable.

[328 Power 04]

Hi everyone, we sell several thousand of these Driveshaft Supports annually and have recently improved the design with better bearing retention within the rubber diaphragm. The updated version should be available in a month or two.

The bearing is a high-quality INA bearing, as we try to use name-brand bearings whenever possible. Most URO idlers and pulleys contain NTN or NSK brand bearings, which gives us an edge over the competition since the bearing is typically the point of eventual failure for this type of part. If anyone has any questions or needs any assistance with any of our parts, please don't hesitate to send a PM or email "sales at uro parts dot com" (remove spaces).



How long ago did you get the strut mounts? These have been revised twice over the last five years, hopefully we've already corrected the issue you experienced. Will send PM to make sure you've been taken care of.

While you're at it, the rubber of the intake boots is very subpar and doesn't last even half as long as OE. I have seen new ones crack and fail within half a year.

[URO Parts]

^ Thanks for the feedback 328 Power 04, which one of these E36 boots are you referring to?
13 54 1 740 073
13 54 1 703 588
13 71 1 726 325
13 71 1 726 205
13 54 1 703 694

[328 Power 04]

^ Thanks for the feedback 328 Power 04, which one of these E36 boots are you referring to?
13 54 1 703 588 (https://www.uroparts.com/uro/inventory/show/8201)


E36 non ASC.

Poor boot lasted maybe 6 months. Not sure if there have been upgrades (as they would be very welcome), but it was much worse than stock.

[ZEKTI]

Just purchased an Uro CSB. I can confirm the rubber is different and slightly stiffer than Febi. I have both in hand to compare for what it’s worth. Per Uro

“we approved our new stronger CSB design (the rubber isolator was strengthened) in May of 2018, and the production run for the CSB you have occurred in September 2019 (code 7501), so it looks like you have the updated version. Production code 7889 ran in June 2020”

Hope it helps.


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[URO Parts]

E36 non ASC.

Poor boot lasted maybe 6 months. Not sure if there have been upgrades (as they would be very welcome), but it was much worse than stock.

Thanks 328Power04, how long ago did you try that boot? After receiving reports of the material cracking several years ago, we improved the material of Air Intake Boot 13 54 1 703 588 (https://apaindustries.com/parts/8201) in early 2019, and the return rate of these boots has been quite low since.



Just purchased an Uro CSB. I can confirm the rubber is different and slightly stiffer than Febi. I have both in hand to compare for what it’s worth.

Awesome ZEKTI, let us know how it works out!

[xxxxxxx]

Neat to see URO here and working on parts quality.

[spyderg0d]

I've had uro csb for 6 years now or so. It hasn't managed to make it's way onto a driveshaft yet, but its grown minimal rust in the parts buckets than everything else. Storage capability is 5 star.

[tjm3]

A little info on bearings. Repost it if you think it'll do some good.
Bearings have ratings, the most common one you'll see are the ABEC ratings/grades 1, 3, 5, 7, etc. The higher the number, the more precision is built in, the longer it lasts. We're taking roller or ball type bearings here.
If you get a part with a bearing and it doesn't mention the grade then it's most likely an ABEC 1 or 3. Low grade, low manufacturing tolerance. If bearings are grade 5, or 7, or higher then the supplier will surely brag about that.
Take a common bearing like a 6206. They're used in alternators and stuff like that. Look them up on Ebay or Amazon. The grade 1 and 3 bearings can be had for 5-10 bucks, give or take. Move to the grade 5 or 7 and the price jumps to 75-100 bucks or more. That should tell us something right there. I've found unofficial reports that many Chinese manufactured bearings don't meet the specs. Many do, though, if you do the research. As an example, an alternator repair kit or any similar type kit with bearings, and that includes the CSB stuff, at super low pricing, like an alternator rebuild kit with the voltage regulator and bearings for 30 or 40 bucks, then it's very likely you're not getting a precision bearing. There's a reason why the BMW factory parts cost 3, 4 or 5 times the price of cheaper knockoffs and also the reason why they last a LOT longer. Keep that in mind. I've used a lot of URO parts with very few issues but I noticed that the URO contributor didn't mention bearing grades in the CSB. A lower grade bearing is gonna run hotter and take it's toll on the rubber. Is it cheaper to change the rubber or use a bearing that cost 3 or 4 times as much?


tjm3

[ZEKTI]

While I don’t have the part in hand to show the INA bearing model and thus specs, perhaps Uro can comment it’s part#.

I’ve found working that it all depends on what a customer requests from a manufacturer to determine “quality”. I say quality because rating classifications exist for a reason and it’s not the manufacturers fault if a bearing is used outside approved specs. With a manufacturer like INA in 2020 I have little doubt the berating they make, regardless of final assembly location, are outside their own specs.

When you mentioned BMW parts vs aftermarket, other costs come into play than just materials and labor. For one aftermarket and knock off are not the same thing. I’m sure you know but they go to OEs, sometimes multiple, request a part and specs. This why often you’ll find AM parts with the rounded etched out as they cannot be sold with the roundel. Tbf I’ve got a few parts where one didn’t :) BMW maintaining their own parts supply adds cost. The warehousing, new place in NJ iirc, staffing, updates all come at a premium to pay BMW people to work it. Also they want parts for their dealerships, they’re not trying to supply everyone.

Overall a BMW part isn’t necessarily the best and Chinese made bearings have a wide range of quality/price.


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[tjm3]

Hey, that post was for information only. Anyone can use or rationalize the use of any part from anywhere or any supplier and while I don't use BMW parts exclusively, unless I can verify what I'm getting there no way I'd be convinced that BMW factory parts are not the most reliable way to go. And if it survives storage in NJ it's gotta be good.

[ZEKTI]

BMW 90s water pumps would like a word with factory is best ;)

I know what you mean, it’s built by accountants not engineers.

I think a good takeaway is that China from a manufacturing perspective is not the same China from 2010 or even 2015, sometimes I wish the US could move at that speed.

Fwiw the Uro CSB shows made in TW, not China. Which is its own separate geopolitical issue.

Thanks Uro for continuing to support and modify your products. Look forward to new product releases!


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[URO Parts]

Thanks guys. There will always be a wide variety of performance aftermarket and high-end dealer parts parts that are better than ours (but as everyone knows, certainly not all OEM parts are good), but our goal is to provide the best value for your dollar. For those with a slightly bigger budget, we offer many items in our URO Premium line that are actually better than OEM thanks to improved materials and/or design.

[URO Parts]

While I don’t have the part in hand to show the INA bearing model and thus specs, perhaps Uro can comment it’s part#.

No problem, just grabbed a unit from the warehouse, here's a photo of the part number on the INA bearing.

681187