[NEWBIE] 95 540i questions

[bigray122]

Hey all,

I posted in this forum because I don't know if I have an E34 or an E39 how do I determine which car I own. I bought a 95 540i sedan from a friend. Naturally it has a myriad of issues. I do know its had a new trans cooler installed this year and supposedly the brakes....(likely just pads and even more likely generic).

It was explained that it doesn't shift or slips when its cold, however shifts fine once its warmed up. I'm guessing both shift solenoids need replaced as well as trans filter and having the band (?) tightened.

Here is a list of known issues I've encountered after drive the last few days.

1) When braking it seems to oscillate and I'm guessing its the right front. (probably needs a new rotor). It only does this when braking and not while driving it normally.

2) There is a "break linings" warning or something that comes up on the dash. (Also tag light and low beam, but both of those lights work fine???)

3) Between the speedo and tach there is a triangle light illuminated and I've no clue what that is...

4) The stock radio randomly works when it wants, when it does work it randomly drops the passenger side audio.

5) There seems to be a massive leak from one of the hoses coming off the power steering reservoir.

6) The info display to the right of the radio is completely non-working.

7) Headliner on just the sunroof is peeling away. (likely some spray 90 adhesive or just tear it off)

8) Almost none of the windows go down, rear passenger goes down but will not go up without assist.

9) Switches for reading light and overhead light seem to be done. If you push and hold the switch in the "ON" position the light will illuminate. Once you let off it goes back off. Where can I find this whole assembly.

10) When I click the "ASC" switch, nothing appears to happen. (I'm assuming this is some type of traction control.

11) How do I connect a phone to this system. There is some phone icon on the blinker switch....

12) It looks like below the heated seat button there is another set of buttons that are for some type of airbags in the seat (appear to be non-working).

13) Where can I get an Owners Manual.

14) Fuel pedal is very stiff and even when driving it seems to stick. Even at idle if I step on the pedal it seems to stay at a higher idle and deceleration is delayed.

I think this is about all. If one or more of you folks could help this newbie out I'd appreciate it. Once I get back to work in 2018, I'm gonna dump like $5000 into it to restore it back to OEM condition. Any ideas where to focus the money would be helpful as well.

Thanks a bunch

[edjack]

You have an E34. Post on their forum.

Sounds like an E34 at end-of-life. Good luck.

"A friend?" Hope you got it cheap. How many miles?

Get the Bentley E34 service manual.

The yellow triangle indicates a problem with the ABS.

The problem here is that the E34 is not OBD-II compatible. Diagnosis requires a BMW-specific scan tool, and a cable that will connect to the 20-pin connector mounted at the right shock tower.

[bigray122]

End of life? Its got 136K and relatively easy issues.... just a lot of them. Sorry I don't give up that easy...

[tantumaude]

End of life? Its got 136K and relatively easy issues.... just a lot of them. Sorry I don't give up that easy...

Good, as long as there is no rust it should still have plenty of life left. You've got an E34, one of BMW's better products, especially in 540 flavor. If the transmission has slipping problems, I recommend a manual swap. It's cheaper than fixing the auto, and yields better results.

I'll try to address your points in order

1. Not sure what you mean by oscillate--if a vibration or a grabbing feeling, it could be anything from thrust arm bushes to worn pads warped rotors to a seized caliper.

2. "Brake linings" is a warning telling you your brake pads are worn out. This could explain no. 1.

3. That would be a warning telling you some component of the ASC (traction control) is inop. It could be a computer or mechanical fault, as edjack mentioned you need a specialised tool to diagnose it. That would tie into no. 10. Normally when you press the ASC button the light should come on (it would be off normally) and ASC is turned off. There are three components to the ASC system: the input system (wheel speed/ABS sensor), the throttle control (secondary throttle plate) and the brake control (ABS pump). Try to eliminate two of these as possible faults.

4. Sounds like a bad headunit. Used ones are plentiful and cheap. You could also have problems anywhere between the headunit and the speaker if they cut out, but I suspect the former.

5. Typical BMW problem. They need replacing (I suggest you change the reservoir as well, it has a one-time use filter built into it)

6. Is it inop or just dim? The backlights are known to fail.

7. Hi-tack 90 should work, but I suggest getting new fabric.

8. A typical E34 problem. Regulators have gone bad. Not a difficult fix.

9. Sounds like some contacts need to be cleaned. Try that first.

10. See above. Normally it switches off traction control.

11. That would be for the awesome 1990s vintage car phone, which would have included hands-free operation. Someone likely took the phone out a decade ago when the AMPS networks it would have used went offline. No way to connect Bluetooth unless you retrofit another headunit and Bluetooth module--the existing system is antiquated.

12. These are for lumbar support. Hold them down and you should feel movement in your lower back. Very nice on long road trips.

13. Ebay, members here parting out, or craigslist.

14. Check throttle cable bushings in the engine compartment. These are a common E34 problem, there was a recall issued in the early 2000s as the cable could become jammed with the throttle wide open. there should be a retaining clip on the throttle cable where it meets the throttle body. If not, look up that retrofit on the forums here. It's a very good idea to do it.

As long as your car is rust-free and has a decent engine, you'll eventually get it to a point where you'll really get to enjoy it. There's a wealth of knowledge on here about these; like I said, they are among BMW's better products. the best part is, you can run E34s with a wide range of budgets.

[Mach540]

Once I get back to work in 2018, I'm gonna dump like $50,000 into it to restore it back to OEM condition.

FIFY!

(Fixed It For You.)

Good luck with that.......:redspot

[ross1]

Welcome bigray. Sounds like you have a handful there.
While all those things are able to be addressed, and probably within your stated budget, I'm suggesting that unless the body(how many rust free 23 YO cars running around in Baltimore?) and interior are exceptionally nice you'll be better served by start over with a better car. $5k will buy a very nice one.
It's pretty clear this car comes from an uncaring home. Why punish yourself?
Take it from someone who has adopted more than a few orphans in his time.

[Sneezy]

Woof. While I applaud your energy and enthusiasm for what is, in my biased opinion, the best car BMW ever produced I would offer that you need a reality check. $5K will likely cover all of the deferred maintenance you describe and some I am willing to bet you don't know about yet. OEM condition will be a bit more spendy.

If she is cancer free and you really love the soul of the automobile then by all means carry on. These cars have been around long enough that nearly everything you need to know is contained in this subforum. There are people here that have forgotten more than I know about the chassis and we all love a good success story! Spend some time poking around and you will be amazed at what you learn.

Good luck and welcome!

[bigray122]

Hey all,

And especially Tantumaude, thank you for your responses. There are some very small surface rust specks here and there. Clearly nothing as cancerous as my old 93 Jeep Cherokee which yes would be indicative of a Baltimore based vehicle of its age. So yes, there is some soul left in what I believe to be one of the better engineered motors around. The transmission, I believe is actually a GM trans (I could be wrong). The slipping issue is easy to address as are most of the others. I subscribed for years and still do to Jeep Forums which has enabled me to become quite the shade tree mechanic when necessary. Again, thank you for your time and I'll keep you posted as to the progress of furthering this car....

[whiskychaser]

The trans will be a ZF 5HP30 which BMW call A5S560Z. (If you put your VIN number in realoem.com you can soon confirm it). It does not have a band. You don't say why the ATF cooler was changed but if it was because the trans was overheating, that is cause for concern. Nothing harms a trans more than getting too hot. Of course, there is a big difference between not engaging a gear and having a clutch slip. If it holds fine when warm, it may be just a clogged filter. What you find in the pan when you drop it may help a lot with diagnosis. So would some sort of ADS compatible diagnostic equipment. HTH

[bigray122]

$5,000

FIFY!

(Fixed It For You.)

Good luck with that.......:redspot

[bigray122]

Previous owner took it to a shop.... (lol). Previous owner really isn't such a bright fella, very loveable...just not bright. When I read your post, I text him with this question. His reply was this. "They told me the trans must be getting too hot causing the shift problems. I did go to realoem as you suggested. Unlike the E36 my trans only has one (1) "Solenoid". However I see two (2) pressure regulators. I'm wondering should I replace all of these as well. As I write this post, I'd gotten in the car this evening and without letting it run long, I had to leave. With the air outside being 11 degrees, I got a "TRANS PROGRAM" warning light. Started researching a bunch of stuff. Now I'm getting a brake light warning and a low beam warning to add to the other dash warnings..... FML.


The trans will be a ZF 5HP30 which BMW call A5S560Z. (If you put your VIN number in realoem.com you can soon confirm it). It does not have a band. You don't say why the ATF cooler was changed but if it was because the trans was overheating, that is cause for concern. Nothing harms a trans more than getting too hot. Of course, there is a big difference between not engaging a gear and having a clutch slip. If it holds fine when warm, it may be just a clogged filter. What you find in the pan when you drop it may help a lot with diagnosis. So would some sort of ADS compatible diagnostic equipment. HTH

[bigray122]

My apologies, I forgot to say thank you.
You have an E34. Post on their forum.

Sounds like an E34 at end-of-life. Good luck.

"A friend?" Hope you got it cheap. How many miles?

Get the Bentley E34 service manual.

The yellow triangle indicates a problem with the ABS.

The problem here is that the E34 is not OBD-II compatible. Diagnosis requires a BMW-specific scan tool, and a cable that will connect to the 20-pin connector mounted at the right shock tower.

[shogun]

First of all check the voltage on your car, if not enough, strange things happen http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/obc_secrets/obc_secrets.html

[whiskychaser]

If you have a 5HP30, you have 8 solenoids. 3 are shift and 5 are pressure regulation. I would leave them all alone for now, particularly the main pressure regulator. FWIW, you can get shift problems with a duff trans temp sensor. But for now, try to get a level playing field and start with voltage as Shogun suggests

[shogun]

yes, 5HP30 has 8 solenoids, here shown on the website of my wrenching buddy when we repaired a 5HP30 valve body http://e32b12.blogspot.jp/2013/06/zfat5hp305hp30-valve-body-repair-pt2.html

[ross1]

Previous owner took it to a shop.... (lol). Previous owner really isn't such a bright fella, very loveable...just not bright. When I read your post, I text him with this question. His reply was this. "They told me the trans must be getting too hot causing the shift problems. I did go to realoem as you suggested. Unlike the E36 my trans only has one (1) "Solenoid". However I see two (2) pressure regulators. I'm wondering should I replace all of these as well. As I write this post, I'd gotten in the car this evening and without letting it run long, I had to leave. With the air outside being 11 degrees, I got a "TRANS PROGRAM" warning light. Started researching a bunch of stuff. Now I'm getting a brake light warning and a low beam warning to add to the other dash warnings..... FML.

Smart enough to unload this car

[bigray122]

That's debatable. I paid $1000 for a vehicle with zero rust (other than 5 pinhead sized dots on roof and door), a strong engine and something I can bring back to good speed. Because I want to. I literally joined this forum for some helpful insight. I suppose some will just choose to look past a call for advice/guidance and give me shit.... Not specifically you per se.

Smart enough to unload this car

[KingDavidsCourt]

A lot of people are/have been you... buy a car cheap and by the time they realized it, they had more into it than if they would have just bought a really nice one for the start. They likely thought like you ‘it was cheap... I’ll fix it up as I go along and just put in a little by little’. It’s not a knock on you. If it runs and drives and you can deal with the quirks until you fix them all... then I think you got a decent deal. Change it to a manual and it becomes a different machine... find a manual... save up some more... have it swapped...save some more... buy some suspension parts.... save some more... so on. I personally appreciate people bringing these old machines back to life as opposed to parting them too early. Good for you... keep us posted on progress.

[tantumaude]

I disagree, I think building up a car by one's self is the better way to go about it. Yes, it may cost more money, but I find it generally returns more smiles and a sense of satisfaction, as well as a good learning experience.

No matter which way you look at it, a clean shell is worth $1000. The fact the engine works and there are only a few relatively minor problems is just a bonus.

[ross1]

That's debatable. I paid $1000 for a vehicle with zero rust (other than 5 pinhead sized dots on roof and door), a strong engine and something I can bring back to good speed. Because I want to. I literally joined this forum for some helpful insight. I suppose some will just choose to look past a call for advice/guidance and give me shit.... Not specifically you per se.
Don't take offense. You took a stab at the PO and given the state of this car I couldn't resist pointing out that you were now owner of all these problems. Rust free is #1 in my book.
I'm happy to help as much as I'm able as are a bunch of others here. You're gonna need it

[KingDavidsCourt]

Don't take offense. You took a stab at the PO and given the state of this car I couldn't resist pointing out that you were now owner of all these problems. Rust free is #1 in my book.
I'm happy to help as much as I'm able as are a bunch of others here. You're gonna need it

And Ross is the resident E34 expert... So get in good cause you're definitely going to be asking questions that he'll be one of 3 people to answer :)

[bigray122]

Thanks Ross, also KDC. Its not the first time someone told me to switch it to manual. Wouldn't it be easier to get a remanned auto from Eurotransmissisions for $1850.00? Or will I just have further issues? I did order a new Main Relay as some of the issues I've been getting were symptomatic of a worn relay. Also took the shroud off the engine and goddamn if the cable mount and linkage isn't gerry rigged with zip ties... WTF? I travel 8-10 months out of the year and make enough make this my project to bring it back. It drives nice and sounds great. Again, some cash, TLC and you guys answering questions. lol
Don't take offense. You took a stab at the PO and given the state of this car I couldn't resist pointing out that you were now owner of all these problems. Rust free is #1 in my book.
I'm happy to help as much as I'm able as are a bunch of others here. You're gonna need it

[bigray122]

Sadly the OBC is non-working and the head unit fades in and out at will. Also, I have a dummy light now for SRS.... any help on this?
First of all check the voltage on your car, if not enough, strange things happen http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/obc_secrets/obc_secrets.html

[ross1]

Sadly the OBC is non-working and the head unit fades in and out at will. Also, I have a dummy light now for SRS.... any help on this?
The OBCs don't often fail*.The bulbs for the backlit LCD display do, there are three of them. Shine a bright light at the display to see if it is actually working but just dark.
SRS light could be a bunch of things, most common being the steering wheel slip ring for the connection to the air bag. Disconnecting anything related to the SRS system with the car powered up will set the light too. I've done this more times than I care to admit.
F the radio
I think you've checked pretty much every box as far as typical elderly E34 issues go. Makes me feel better about my own car's needs.
Carry on, sir, at the end of the day you'll have a great car. Looking forward to the day you can rub it in our faces.
*IF you do need a new OBC I have spare for sale, PM if so.