M30 cold start issues, help please

[Dannyblah]

New here, please help me out guys. So I live in Wisconsin and it gets a little cold sometimes. I drive a 92 535i manual and right now the weather has been about 0 for a high. I cannot get it to start in this cold. I already have a new battery, starter and alternator (140 amp) and it still acts like its dead. I go to start it and i get one good roll over with it. By my 3rd try it acts like the battery is dead. Waited a couple hours and tried again, did the same thing. Waited another couple hours and did the same thing. I have electric fans and i disconnected those to see if it would help but no change. Radio off, heat off, dome lights off and it stills does it. Its like the car can't recognize the battery's charge when its cold. It shouldn't have anything to do with fuel or intake sensors because it doesn't try to roll over. The first try between hours of waiting it fires up right away but doesn't stay running.

[moroza]

Welcome! I previously owned a 534i that started and ran just fine down to -17. The clutch hydraulics were semi-frozen but the engine did its job, cold. So the car should be able to take the prevailing conditions of Eau Claire.

I see two problems - not turning over, and then not staying running once it is. They may or may not be related. Can you elaborate on the first? When you first go to crank it, does it turn quickly? And on the second and subsequent attempts, does it turn slowly and laboriously with dimming lights, or just go click? And then you come back a couple hours later and it's like nothing happened, or is the battery weak by then?

When was the new starter put in?

Have you tried another battery? It's uncommon, but I think I've seen a battery so bad that it placed too high a load on the engine to run.

[Dannyblah]

First crank, yes quickly. Second and so forth attempts yes turns slowly with dimming lights. I think this past spring i put the new starter in.
The " too high of a load on the engine", could that have anything to do with the alternator being a 140 amp instead of the normal?

[moroza]

And then you come back a couple hours later and it cranks quickly again?

Probably has nothing to do with the alternator; I reckon you'd hear massive belt squeal. You could disconnect the alt belt and see what happens, but my hunch is a bad battery and probably something else. Try another battery and report back.

[ross1]

Are the battery terminals clean and tight? A poor ground connection also comes to mind.

[Flash799]

battery good?
have you measured it?

[Dannyblah]

Yes cranks quickly again after a couple hours. No, no belt squeal, belts are tight.
Battery terminals are good.
Tested the battery last night after a day of not driving it, just sitting inside shed. At first the battery read at about 11 amps. Threw the charger on it to start it. Tested the alternator, 14.14 amps, starter was the same reading as well as the battery ( while car was running btw). I also added a ground wire coming from the motor to the frame just for the fuck of it hoping it might help somehow.

All connections and wires are in good condition. I left my electric fans off because with them on the battery was getting a lower reading and it continued to decline slowly. Again though, this is only at idle so I am not sure if that is normal or not?

Left the charger on all night just in case, it fired right up first try this morning. The temperature is in the negatives but i keep it in an insulated shed. Drove it to work today and we will see what happens later in the day.

Question : I don't think my heated seats work. They light up as if they are on but i have never felt anything other than a cold ass. Could this have anything to do with any battery drain? Im sure its not much but was wondering.

[ross1]

Sounds like two problems. A drain while the car is off since only at 11 volts after being fully charged and the cranking problem.
My understanding of the cranking issue is that is will turn quickly but only briefly and that after standing a while(cooling?)it works well again. That, to me indicates a starter drawing way too much current. Is the starter hot after these attempts?
OP watch the language, mods take a dim view of the F word.

[Dannyblah]

Yes turns quickly on first attempt, second and so on turns slower and slower. And yes after a couple hours it would repeat the same said cycle. I really don't know if the starter is hot after? I guess i will check that next. Say the starter IS drawing too much juice, why would it only act up in the cold? Also, how would i know if the starter is drawing too much and what would be the issue ( the whole thing, a wire etc.). Like i said earlier I put my tester on the starter while running and it was the same as the battery reading ( it was 14.something ).

Thanks for the heads up on language

[moroza]

Where'd you get the starter? I've seen some really bad remans. A starter draws more current if it's turning too slow or has too much load, or is old or crappy.

I sure hope you measured 11, 14 VOLTS and not AMPS.

I still think you need to try another battery; sounds like this one is weak.

[Dannyblah]

Haha, yes volts not AMPS, my bad

[zubbie]

I would first confirm the condition of battery (load test) and alternator (volt meter when running ~ 14.5 - 15.25 v). Then check connections, ground wire etc to battery, alternator and starter and then check for a parasitic drain with a multimeter. (Google it)

Bench testing all 3 would be ideal but removing an M30 starter is not a fun job. Despite all 3 being new you may have a dud. A no start condition is not the same as a no crank. No crank can be a bad or undercharged battery, bad connections / wiring, or bad starter. No start can be a whole bunch of things. Good luck.