View Full Version : Worth buying a 750iL with a build date before 6/97?
Toying with getting a 750iL, would like the option of getting a tune. Not that an extra 20HP or whatever will make or break the car in my eyes, but I like the reports of better driveability and responsiveness. I prefer the facelift cars but not so much that I couldn't own a pre facelift copy.
I had a short sport and did a decent amount of work to it and am familiar with most E38 quirks, I loved the car but felt the M62TU was more trouble then it was worth. Considering giving a V12 a
Whether I even get a tune or not, I would think if the DME has been cracked it might be easier to support even just from a maintenance standpoint?
opinions? Or did I just answer my own question.
samsonevickis
07-16-2017, 05:40 PM
Well I have an 11/95 750iL, no tune, I had an E32 V12 and its easier to service than that, but I believe there are tunes you can get. The 850 had the same engine and trans so there are chips for them.
I don't see why the Wokke chip wouldn't work.
Thanks, didn't know about that.
I just learned DSC is pretty much only on facelift cars, yet another feature that sways me towards the later cars. But trying to keep options open as the pool of serviceable cars isnt huge, even accounting for the whole model run.
Easiest to service, no-dual battery setup, muh unrestricted cats, and I personally love the glass-lenses. The Transporter and James Bond drove preface so that's what I remember the E38 as. In the E32 V12 that I got to drive for a while, I had zero complaints in terms of control but then again it had an LSD.
Good luck with the R, I'm banging myself on the head with a charge pipe right now.
Thanks, didn't know about that.
I just learned DSC is pretty much only on facelift cars, yet another feature that sways me towards the later cars. But trying to keep options open as the pool of serviceable cars isnt huge, even accounting for the whole model run.
All E38 750s have DSC.
DSC was not put on the 740 until 98 model year.
I'm not certain I'm buying yet. While I finally gave up on the third car needing to be a convertible, I was stuck on an '03-05 S55, S600, or a CL version. But although slower, E38 V12's are a better value than the MB's and I'm not racing. The short sport was plenty powerful in town; a dog on the highway, but I hear the M73 is much better. Loved everything else about the E38. Eventually I'll drive a 750.
The DSC is more a preference than need; I never had traction control intervene much less the stability contol on the short sport, but I rarely had bad weather during its time with me. I tend to push it a little more in cars that have it, and even though a 750 is more of a cruiser it would be a nice cusion to have. But not shopping quite yet, still spitballing. I will give pre facelifts a look if I decide to proceed, was just interested in other perspectives, and I appreciate you taking the time to add yours, thank you.
you on swedespeed xalt? That site is a good resource. So far so good with the latest R, I just installed the IPD sways, redid the LCA's, replaced the subframe with one with delrin mounts, and refreshed every engine mount. Thinking about turning the 4C struts into coilovers so I can keep stock ride height but tailor the springrates to a firmness of my liking while retaining the function. But progress is slow, lots of life getting in the way.
Besides tunes and all, you'll miss out on step but that can be retrofitted.
Yea I'm on Swedespeed to look at RVAE's thread, just fixed an awkward PCV clog, and now I'm replacing 14 y/o coils.
whats step?
Edit: guessing steptronic
All E38 750s have DSC.
DSC was not put on the 740 until 98 model year.
Thank you, I almost missed that. So to clarify all E38 750's have stability control in addition to traction control?
pumpedTSI
07-17-2017, 09:13 PM
I'm actually going back to my 00 750 as my daily from my 04 S55 AMG........the Mercedes has to go.....waaay too many issues. I get it all sorted and another pops up every other week and I do my own wrenching and have overdone the preventative on this thing. I love the car, the looks, the ride and the HP but my 750 has NEVER let me down....The S55 has 2 flatbed AAA trips so far and Ive only had it less than 2 yrs....the E38 is mega quiet inside compared to the AMG....
I'm actually going back to my 00 750 as my daily from my 04 S55 AMG........the Mercedes has to go.....waaay too many issues. I get it all sorted and another pops up every other week and I do my own wrenching and have overdone the preventative on this thing. I love the car, the looks, the ride and the HP but my 750 has NEVER let me down....The S55 has 2 flatbed AAA trips so far and Ive only had it less than 2 yrs....the E38 is mega quiet inside compared to the AMG....
Thank you--good info, I was just commenting to a buddy that I'm not sure the extra speed is worth the $10k premium, especially if it comes with more headaches. Any goodwill goes fast if a car strands me, though ironically of all that the bolded part is what put another nail in the AMG coffin.
Based on supply, I may just have to go look at whatever is available. I know of one beautiful facelift 750iL sport very nearby, but I don't think the gentleman wants to part with it...
The older W140 literally had 100s of lbs of sound proofing in it. You can't hear anything inside a 600SEL.
Then again this is the same era Mercedes that managed to spend millions on downgrading a reliable and high performance V12 designed by engineers to a dog with less cams.
To me, seeing the 140 succeed the beautiful 126 was like, well, the bangle succeeding the E38: A crime. They might be objectively better in some ways but I can't look at them, and could never own one.
My fave MB's were 126's, and I like the 220 too. Euro 116's are alright too. Too bad there was never a 126 6.9....
I like E32's and E38's, but just like the 126 might be too primitive, not sure I can do an E32. I seem to keep coming back to the E38. That da mn short sport just had to get under my skin... I just don't want to deal with the V8 issues though.
E32/8 M60 Shorty 40. Has goodies like keyless, but it's still a dated car compared to the 750.
Muh options
I'd avoid between 9/97 and 3/98, tbh.
Getting pieces for the DSC3 system is a bitch.
What came before, and are parts easier to source? There is one available with a build date of I think 4/97.
clivesay
07-18-2017, 08:08 PM
I love my '96 750il. I don't care what all you big meanies say about it!! :D
GMCPaul
07-19-2017, 05:04 AM
I love my '96 750il. I don't care what all you big meanies say about it!! :D
I'll take 95-98 any day over 99-01. Never had a trans fail safe Ever with a 95-98, nor brake module problems with them being inside the car behind glove box. 99-01 though seem to throw trans fail safe so easily, and brake module failure from heat under the hood is guaranteed eventually. I'd trade either my 2000 or 2001 any day for the same mileage 95-98 750iL. The 99-01 just seem to finicky and with heated cats that's a real battery hog they ear batteries quicker. My preference is the 1995 trouble free, I never use Navigation so not needed and I prefer the rear gearing found in the 95
Thank you for the input--owner perspectives from people who own (or owned) both is invaluable to me.
I suppose I should be less concerned with tuning, since my plans would be limited to mostly factory upgrades like shadowline trim (depending on paint color), wheels if the 750iL in question does not come with M-Pars, very slight drop, repop Alpina lip & with the lowers painted bodycolor, maybe sport wheel, maybe sport seats, etc. Otherwise, maintain, drive, and enjoy.
We have NAV in one of the Volvos, and honestly I can't be bothered with non-touch screen stuff nowadays. I have never seen a car for sale that has anything but the 4:3 and I don't see myself using that; but I hate kludges so without a stock looking modern solution I'd just leave whats there.
What are the usual suspects for trans fail safe with the 5HP30? I was under the impression they don't have the input drum issues like the 5H24's, but am not sure as I only had a 5HP24.
Usually it's the battery/alt going nuts, water, connectors, selector switch, DSC related or actual failure. The 30 technically has all the issues of the 24, but in practice they're much stronger, change your fluid.
E38s eat batteries, facelift 750s make them mincemeat.
There is what *looks* like a super clean black/black '01 750iL on CL for $3500, that says it triggers failsafe. It has 155K on it though, which is a bit much to start out on for what will be a keeper. If it were local (I'm in IN currently) I might go there with a voltmeter (or better yet bug a guy that lives 10 min from me that has INPA, to see if I could have him come check it out with me). I return to Chicagoland regularly, if its still around next time I might consider looking at it. But there are a couple lower mile ones out there that I'd look at first.
I am a believer in ATF changes, I am one of the few that does (in fact I have pics of how I changed the ATF in my prior R, an '07 S60R GT, on swedespeed), have changed it most recently in our XC90 through the trans cooler connections, using a 5 gal bucket I 'graduated' myself in quart increments. I actually bought the short sport with a bad input drum and rebuilt in my yard, but not something I want to do again without a lift and proper trans jack, plus I bet the 30 is heavier and it looks like the V12 exhaust would be even harder to get around. Either way I'd try to get one before its broken, and keep the fluid fresh and possibly do the main pressure regulator update kit pre-emptively (though not sure that exists for the 30--I never checked).
Yea, it's fun to pump it out and refill 04 has a dipstick luckily. I love not having to deal with a filter either.
The 30's pan is huge, the exhaust wraps around it.
Well, I would put in an aux or inline filter. I did a magnefine in the '07 R, though I think next time I will do a full size spin on using a remote mount engine oil filter kit. XC90 has none, not sure where to actually mount it. Though I do still have a second magnefine...
Wonder if there would be room on a 750iL, though perhaps arguably superfluous since the pickup is a filter. The presence of a drain plug is refreshing, coming from many cars that didn't, makes changing the filter much less unpleasant.
GMCPaul
07-20-2017, 07:47 AM
What are the usual suspects for trans fail safe with the 5HP30? I was under the impression they don't have the input drum issues like the 5H24's, but am not sure as I only had a 5HP24.
Any dip in voltage at all trans-fail-safe appears. Our 95, 97, & 98 NEVER 1 trans fail safe EVER. The 2000 & 2001 and they seem to be regular occurrence's for minor low voltage & at times it seems it's just a glitch that causes it. Both the pre-facelift & facelifts use the same transmission but the modules & electrical system are different. In my opinion BMW failed when they changed the modules & programming on the 750iL facelifts.
Our 95, 97, & 98's can be left sitting for a year or more no battery tender they fire right up. leave a facelift sitting 30 days without a battery tender and you can be sure it'll need a assist to battery to start. Facelift electrical Sucks IMO! Oh and in regards to eating batteries expect to replace the top battery every 12-24 months on facelift 750's on 95-98 we easily go 5-6 years on a battery.
Paul
Aitch
07-20-2017, 10:04 AM
Funny someone counseled me that facelifts would have less electrical glitches before I bought mine. For the dual battery and e-cats alone I'm happy I got a 98.
Sent from my XT1572 using Tapatalk
So Speak of the devil, the 98 I've inquired about has some DSC issue.
Ive tried to search but cant seem to find what generation system this car uses, nor am I certain that the system is complete, current owner says there are some lines off of the master cylinder that look capped/crimped, and mentioned he saw some reference to a precharge pump, which doesn't seem to be on the car.
build date is 4-30-1997. I can't seem to find the right combo of keywords to figure out what generation system it has, and its makeup, so I'd at least know what to look for if I go see it.
the car has some other issues expexted of a used E38; a bad rear window regulator, leather wear on the driver seat, and some failing clearcoat. Honestly the clearcoat is what bugs me the most, as I wasnt expecting that from the pics and was hoping to avoid bodywork. But, if there is a good chance the DSC issue can be solved without costing an arm and leg I will at least go look at it.
GMCPaul
07-24-2017, 04:25 PM
So Speak of the devil, the 98 I've inquired about has some DSC issue.
Ive tried to search but cant seem to find what generation system this car uses, nor am I certain that the system is complete, current owner says there are some lines off of the master cylinder that look capped/crimped, and mentioned he saw some reference to a precharge pump, which doesn't seem to be on the car.
build date is 4-30-1997. I can't seem to find the right combo of keywords to figure out what generation system it has, and its makeup, so I'd at least know what to look for if I go see it.
the car has some other issues expexted of a used E38; a bad rear window regulator, leather wear on the driver seat, and some failing clearcoat. Honestly the clearcoat is what bugs me the most, as I wasnt expecting that from the pics and was hoping to avoid bodywork. But, if there is a good chance the DSC issue can be solved without costing an arm and leg I will at least go look at it.
A missing pre-charge pump would cause the DSC warning light to come on and the traction control & ABS lights should also have been triggered........ Hopefully they capped the lines and didn't cut them as you'll want to replace it if you get the car. BUT if they removed pre-charge pump as a fix I'd be worried about everything else they might have done to the car. So unless it's selling DIRT cheap run away don't walk.
Funny, when talking with the guy I stated removal would be a hack, and asked whether he had observed any other hacks on the car as this brings such concern to the forefront.
The seller doesn't sound familiar with BMW's (not that I'm some expert either), so he may be misinterpreting some things. He said he saw some crimped lines off the side of the master cylinder, and I think that is what he's basing his presumption that the pump is gone on. Subsequent pics he sent show they are plastic extensions of the reservoir itself, on the lower part of the back drivers side which is how I think they all are (I was expecting hard lines crimped).
like this:
https://www.autopartsapi.com/eEuroparts.com/images/parts/lg_9d412ee1-81ee-4fbd-97a0-36828cfd4b44.jpg
The Bentley manual shows the precharge pump next to the master cylinder, however in the sent pic of the car in question that space is empty. Again googling underhood shots of pre face lifts it looks like that area is indeed empty(Aitch I think its pics of your underhood I found)? But its hard to tell since none of the pics on line are focusing on that area.
https://flic.kr/p/NUwzBA
Seller states that once the car is turned on, warning lights don't stay lit, says he feels the car pulse the brakes when he starts to move and that then the DSC triangle lights up. Says if you turn it off the car drives normally (albeit w/o DSC). And the cruise control doesn't work. My initial thought was it sounds a wheel speed sensor issue, but I have to imagine the dealer would have found that. Small town, probably only one dealer within 100 miles, and at this point I doubt anyone at the dealer is familiar with E38's anymore.
On the other hand, seller states no leaks and that the car is very clean, and there is a stack of receipts from prior owners.
I think the bottom line is I have to get eyes on it, and go over it with a fine tooth comb and just use common sense, and at the end of the day keep in mind buyer beware. Asking is $3800; based on what I have seen go thru CL that might be a decent starting ask based on what the car actually looks like and if its not hacked. There are several with more miles, and/or in visibly worse shape asking $5-6,500, and some nut with one asking $15K. Any cheaper ones are in visibly worse shape with more miles which at the end of the day would cost me as I don't want an eyesore (so how bad the clear coat fail is will also have a bearing on my feeling towards this one). I expect to have ongoing bills with control arms, joints, cooling system parts, and other maintenance items to some degree on any of these at this point. I can't tell if talk of lower prices here are just tongue in cheek or if clean 750iL's really do pop up for less?
My loose plan is to go see it, and see what my gut says. But interested in any feedback on the above, to help my gut...
GMCPaul
07-24-2017, 06:34 PM
Sorry for some reason I thought you were looking at a 2001....... ( I should have paid more attention Sorry ) 1995-98 no pre-charge pump so its missing nothing in those regards. For DSC to be lit and no cruise I'd suspect a right rear speed sensor, But if it were a speed sensor the ABS light should be on.... If he not taking it to a good shop that's familiar with these cars and have the software to diagnose properly by reading faults & live *& saved data it could be basic.
No prob--and thanks for your help thusfar. I mentioned an 01 which actually turns out to be a 99:
https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=461999506&zip=46074&referrer=%2Fcars-for-sale%2Fsearchresults.xhtml%3Fzip%3D46074%26showcas eOwnerId%3D3944403%26startYear%3D1981%26sortBy%3Dd erivedpriceDESC%26maxPrice%3D11000%26incremental%3 Dall%26engineCodes%3D12CLDR%26firstRecord%3D0%26en dYear%3D2018%26modelCodeList%3D750IL%26makeCodeLis t%3DBMW%26searchRadius%3D0&startYear=1981&numRecords=25&maxPrice=11000&firstRecord=0&endYear=2018&modelCodeList=750IL&makeCodeList=BMW&searchRadius=0&makeCode1=BMW&modelCode1=750IL
and I have to say a 46k 750 for $8,500 is tempting, but I sure wish the car had turned up privately. However I'm not relishing the prospect of a fly n buy, even though I've done it before. Posted it in the 'finds' thread, I guess if its still around if the 98 I'm looking at falls through, I might reconsider.
Planning at looking at the 98 either Friday or toward the end of next week.
Well I went to see the 98, it was a 'run dont walk' car, a Monet, a 20 footer. Maybe a $1,200 dollar car to be generous. In addition to the funky DSC prob, EDC bad, seats very bad, dash leather cracked, snadbeige faded to various shades of artificial limb color, clunks in frontend despite being 'refreshed,' dented sill, motor was replaced with a 'salvage' engine (mileage & provenance unknown). Dirty, smelled like gas, just did not look cared for.
boggles my mind how some people (don't) look after cars.
had plans to see a couple facelifts in Chicagoland next weekend, but their ads are gone suddenly. Im a bit more cautious with remote buying when its non late model stuff, as variance of condition is much wider spread.
GMCPaul
07-29-2017, 04:17 AM
Well only facelift that's advertised around Chicago that may be worth looking at is priced about $2000-$2500.00 to high in my opinion
https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/d/bmw-il/6220629654.html
"Bulletproof windows" warrants schooling the owner and then lowballing him.
The original owner of a 151k mi 94 750 in Bloomington wants 8k, I fell off the chair laughing. Deprecation is the greatest thing to ever happen.
Well only facelift that's advertised around Chicago that may be worth looking at is priced about $2000-$2500.00 to high in my opinion
https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/d/bmw-il/6220629654.html
Yeah, that seems to be the most plausible one one left.
There was a black/sandbeige '01 with around 100k and a bunch of recent maint specified in the ad, advertised for $6K. Trees in the pics were still bare, so I imagine it had been advertised for a while, but ad disappeared this week.
I'll see whats around that way when I'm there next weekend, if the one in the ad you posted is still there I may go check it out.
"Bulletproof windows" warrants schooling the owner and then lowballing him.
Funny, that crossed my mind with the 98, but when I saw it, it was clear that it was in way worse shape than anything I want, and its priced so out of line vs condition that even if I wanted a project in my experience trying to bring dreamy eyed sellers back to reality to offer 1/4-1/3 asking is too heavy a lift.
This was the car, its basically a running parts car IMO:
https://peoria.craigslist.org/cto/d/bmw-il-cylinder/6190597527.html
GMCPaul
07-29-2017, 09:24 AM
"Bulletproof windows" warrants schooling the owner and then lowballing him.
The original owner of a 151k mi 94 750 in Bloomington wants 8k, I fell off the chair laughing. Deprecation is the greatest thing to ever happen.
LOL my thinking also when I read his ad....
If you need a laugh, check this ad out:
https://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/cto/d/bmw-il/6221100964.html
The Blue E38 has been on sale for a very long time, since December or so. Started at 9k and worked his way down, for $1500 it's a decent beater, raid junkyard 740s to keep a V12 on the road.
The Blue E38 has been on sale for a very long time, since December or so. Started at 9k and worked his way down, for $1500 it's a decent beater, raid junkyard 740s to keep a V12 on the road.
Well, E38's are kind of scarce in junkyards where I am currently (Indy). To move forward with it it'd most likely make best sense to try to find a parts car with a good interior & swap everything, get new shocks, go through the suspension completely, figure out the gas smell, and wrap or paint it. And of course fixing the DSC issue. In addition to a general once over of all maint. Parts including cooling system, etc. that I would give any purchase--Thats a TON of work, and would probably end up costing more than just buying a clean one upfront, even if patiently waiting for deals on necessary parts.
I half heartedly Consider offering the seller ~$1,200 if it gets to that point as it would be a blank canvas, but to me a big part of the draw is the prospect of getting a complete clean car for around $4-7k. Not sure I want to undertake a project of this scope at the moment.
Sorry for some reason I thought you were looking at a 2001....... ( I should have paid more attention Sorry ) 1995-98 no pre-charge pump so its missing nothing in those regards. For DSC to be lit and no cruise I'd suspect a right rear speed sensor, But if it were a speed sensor the ABS light should be on.... If he not taking it to a good shop that's familiar with these cars and have the software to diagnose properly by reading faults & live *& saved data it could be basic.
There was a pre-charge pump from 9/97 to 3/98...
Sansouci
07-30-2017, 09:27 AM
The most expensive BMW is a cheap used one.
clivesay
07-30-2017, 10:03 AM
Well, E38's are kind of scarce in junkyards where I am currently (Indy).
Boy, ain't that the truth! Hard to find parts cars around here.
Boy, ain't that the truth! Hard to find parts cars around here.Drive here.
There was a mint black interior in the Pick N Pull, Summit.
Oh good, summit is still around. Used to go there ALL the time when I lived (survived?) in Brighton Park. Then moved SW, used to be several JY's in Lemont but they've all been shut down.
Im actually working on moving back to the Chicagoland burbs. It *should* happen eventually, but trying to make it sooner than later.
The most expensive BMW is a cheap used one.
I would say that depends on what someone considers cheap. It seems E38's are all $6-8k cars, no matter the asking, pay now, or pay later. Thats a pretty cheap all in for what you get, IMO.
Well only facelift that's advertised around Chicago that may be worth looking at is priced about $2000-$2500.00 to high in my opinion
https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/d/bmw-il/6220629654.html
Looked at this car this afternoon, thumbs down.
Ends up being a gas station mechanic who is evidently a dealer on the side (strike one). It is not 'super clean' and 'mint' as the ad claims; paint is okay except dull on the roof, clear failing on the hood, rear passenger door dented, trunk dented. Mostly shiny, M pars look good. Then I open the door, and am immediately PUNCHED in the face by the stench of some nuclear air freshener (strike two). Good lord, who would do that. Door sill trim missing, dirty carpet, entire DS seat cracked up. Various areas of door tops and dash cracked.
Seems to run well, pixels work, no dash lights, radio plays, air works, didnt try heat, nor nav. Figure what the hey, might as well drive it. Steering is heavier than it should be, somethings not right there. Smooth and good power, but when you let up after gunning it, it had a strange whine from under the center of the car. S-EDC button does not have any effect, and the car rides firmer than I remember my short sport, so guessing the shocks are dead. He said it got new brakes and a thrust arm, Almost guarantee it needs most of the rest of the front end parts still, and like the steering, the brakes needed more effort than I expected, as if theres a leak in the vacuum line to the booster or something.
At this point all that is strike three and I'm completely not interested, so I didnt look under it to check for leaks and such, nor scanning codes.
I couldnt see paying more than $1,500-2,000 for it, it would need PDR and some paint touch up on the outside, but a full interior extraction (maybe several), replace at least the drivers seat, & repair or rreplace several door panels, dashtop, find a missing DS quarter window shade, in addition to whatever mechanical stuff I found above.
Whenever I shop for cars I always encounter puffery, Seldom has it ever been this bad. Its amazing how poorly the two cars Ive looked at so far were kept, not just worn, but neglected. One more localish prospect I plan to see in the next week or two, seller insists its mint (dont they all). If it doesnt pan out I will consider either moving on the 46k 99 750il in SF, or expanding the search to include lower mile V8 E38's, or even (gulp) E65/66's.
It may come to that--not excited about the prospect of changing all door glass.... but will depend on what the last local-ish car looks like
rgao007
08-07-2017, 10:50 PM
Looked at this car this afternoon, thumbs down.
Ends up being a gas station mechanic who is evidently a dealer on the side (strike one). It is not 'super clean' and 'mint' as the ad claims; paint is okay except dull on the roof, clear failing on the hood, rear passenger door dented, trunk dented. Mostly shiny, M pars look good. Then I open the door, and am immediately PUNCHED in the face by the stench of some nuclear air freshener (strike two). Good lord, who would do that. Door sill trim missing, dirty carpet, entire DS seat cracked up. Various areas of door tops and dash cracked.
Seems to run well, pixels work, no dash lights, radio plays, air works, didnt try heat, nor nav. Figure what the hey, might as well drive it. Steering is heavier than it should be, somethings not right there. Smooth and good power, but when you let up after gunning it, it had a strange whine from under the center of the car. S-EDC button does not have any effect, and the car rides firmer than I remember my short sport, so guessing the shocks are dead. He said it got new brakes and a thrust arm, Almost guarantee it needs most of the rest of the front end parts still, and like the steering, the brakes needed more effort than I expected, as if theres a leak in the vacuum line to the booster or something.
At this point all that is strike three and I'm completely not interested, so I didnt look under it to check for leaks and such, nor scanning codes.
I couldnt see paying more than $1,500-2,000 for it, it would need PDR and some paint touch up on the outside, but a full interior extraction (maybe several), replace at least the drivers seat, & repair or rreplace several door panels, dashtop, find a missing DS quarter window shade, in addition to whatever mechanical stuff I found above.
Whenever I shop for cars I always encounter puffery, Seldom has it ever been this bad. Its amazing how poorly the two cars Ive looked at so far were kept, not just worn, but neglected. One more localish prospect I plan to see in the next week or two, seller insists its mint (dont they all). If it doesnt pan out I will consider either moving on the 46k 99 750il in SF, or expanding the search to include lower mile V8 E38's, or even (gulp) E65/66's.
The whining after acceleration was the transmission. Happens when you don't use an OEM/Filtran filter, as aftermarket ones collapse and starve the transmission of fluid. Could also just be low fluid.
So there was a 2001 750iL in Chicagoland that looked promising on CL I wanted to see, that disappeared from CL a week before my trip. Bummed, it looked promising. Halfheartedly checked ebay, lo and behold it comes up there, so I spoke to the owner yesterday, and it sounded promising so I grabbed a car hauler and went to see it this afternoon:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/112519371797?ul_noapp=true
Lesson learned, until you see it with your own eyes, wait to get the car hauler. Ended up dragging a trailer to IL and back. Oh well.
I have yet to find a 750iL without a TRASHED interior, this is 0 for 3. Really discouraging any further trips over two hours, or anything I can't personally inspect.
This particular car the body was 6-7 out of 10 and could be brought back pretty easily, but tires bad, suspension clunks, EDC inop, weird jerky shifting trans, neglected leather, cracks on dash, console, door panels, rear windows inop, dirty, pixels busted, stuff broken under the hood, sludge under the oil cap, seat foam flattened, carpet and leather faded like it was in death valley, DIRTY... I mean, you're selling a car, F-in CLEAN IT.
I didn't even make an offer. Another where I'd have to change the ENTIRE interior, frontend rebuild, who knows whats up with the trans, etc. Stay away, unless you just want the body or are ambitious and can get him to take $1500.
So I bought a 750, but an Li, not an iL. In my quest I ran across a CL ad for an '06 with 117k, in trans failsafe, for $2,500 asking. Went to see it today and struck a deal for $2300, pulled it home on a trailer. White with tan, 19's from a 2008, fairly loaded.
Pretty sure it will need valvestem seals, an ABS sensor, and a CSB too, but it was in decent shape and seemed like a deal.
will be interesting to see if the failsafe is an electronic fault or if the trans needs a rebuild. If it needs a rebuild I may just pulloff the nose, pull the engine/trans as a unit, & do the valvestem seals at the same time.
I have pics but have not started a imgur acct since photobucket dropped the hammer.
So I bought a 750, but an Li, not an iL. In my quest I ran across a CL ad for an '06 with 117k, in trans failsafe, for $2,500 asking. Went to see it today and struck a deal for $2300, pulled it home on a trailer. White with tan, 19's from a 2008, fairly loaded.
Pretty sure it will need valvestem seals, an ABS sensor, and a CSB too, but it was in decent shape and seemed like a deal.
will be interesting to see if the failsafe is an electronic fault or if the trans needs a rebuild. If it needs a rebuild I may just pulloff the nose, pull the engine/trans as a unit, & do the valvestem seals at the same time.
I have pics but have not started a imgur acct since photobucket dropped the hammer.
My condolences.
Was gonna mention there was an exceptionally clean 750iL Sport Highline in Florida for 8.5, but I guess it's too late now :p
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