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ColtonBH
06-22-2017, 05:53 AM
I'm Colton, I'm 19, and I'm a BMW-aholic. This is the third BMW I've owned, preceded by a 2002 525iT and a 1998 740il. I wreckeed my last e38 a month or so ago, and have been on the car search since then. I was mostly looking for a e34 540i, I love the styling of the chassis, and I fell in love with the M6X engine in my 740il. Then I saw this baby posted on craigslist and immediately emailed the guy for it. I told him, if it runs, can hit 55, and the body is straight, I'll give him the $700 asking. A couple days later we drive to Chicago, I drive it around the block a couple times, hand him the cash and I'm off with my brand new V12. I have to say, jumping immediately from the V8 to V12 is night and day. I love the V8, but the v12 is such a silk smooth engine and paired with the 5hp30 has the best torque curve of any engine I've ever driven. Anyway, without any further ado, Here are a couple pictures. I'll get some better with my Nikon at a later time, but for now the phone pictures will have to suffice.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4255/35421000676_0141b3b25e_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VY2Tsd)IMG_20170621_190553 (https://flic.kr/p/VY2Tsd)

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4237/35294413762_81dc4c6386_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VLR6zd)IMG_20170621_190746 (https://flic.kr/p/VLR6zd)

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4208/35461079245_5fd1dffa51_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W2ziq2)IMG_20170621_190750 (https://flic.kr/p/W2ziq2)

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4238/35294416932_3e23dc6190_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VLR7vS)IMG_20170621_190755 (https://flic.kr/p/VLR7vS)

I'll update this lists as things come up

Current to-do list:
Front and rear suspension
Driver door handle
Battery issues
̶C̶o̶r̶r̶e̶c̶t̶ ̶t̶i̶r̶e̶ ̶s̶i̶z̶e̶
̶B̶e̶l̶t̶ ̶s̶q̶u̶e̶a̶k̶ Distributor squeak
̶M̶u̶f̶f̶l̶e̶r̶ ̶d̶e̶l̶e̶t̶e̶

The good:
The engine seems to run perfectly
The trans shifts perfectly
Leather dash is in near perfect condition
Leather console is in very good condition
No major damage to body
No (none!) dead pixels in dash
Have yet to find any electronics issues

The bad (long list!):
EDC/SLS struts are completely dead on all corners (it drives like a 63 Cadillac, have coilovers to replace them)
The tires are the wrong size
ABS/Traction Control lights on (probably due to wrong tire size)
Rust on FR door
Rust on RL door
Missing left fog light (have from 740il)
Driver seat does not move forwards or reverse
Absurdly loud squeaking noise upon startup above 1K rpms, goes away after car is fully warm.
Interior in rough condition in general
Rear seat adjustment works partially
Other than dash and center console, all the leather in the car is in pretty rough condition.
lots of dings, paint chips, paint is in rough, irrecoverable condition
Front bumper is cracked beyond repair
rear bumper is cracked, probably repairable, but since the car needs paint anyway, I'll take the black of my 740il
missing engine cover
Windshield is cracked
one of the panes on the driver side quarter glass was shattered
Awful peeling purple tint on all the windows
Batteries may be iffy
Need brakes and sensors
Battery issues (isolator?)

Eventual Mods:
Re-dye / replace interior
Refinish wheels
Ultrasuede headliner, pilars, seatbacks
Strip, stain, and refinish all trip (testing now on e39 trim)


There's plenty more, I will add to this list as I think of things

328iFun
06-22-2017, 06:05 AM
I've always like the bigger BMW motors, v8/v12s but it's shame the majority of them are autos. I'd spring for one if it were manual.

Any who, nice find.

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Zedbimmer
06-22-2017, 07:45 AM
Lucky guy you are

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Sansouci
06-22-2017, 08:17 AM
The most expensive car is a cheap BMW. Good luck.

Sundaycruzer
06-22-2017, 10:05 AM
Sounds like a typical e38 owner. Happy resto!!! This time try not to roll it!!


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Grady in Texas
06-22-2017, 10:07 AM
$700/12 = $58.33... just saying. Good luck with the project.

Aitch
06-22-2017, 10:31 AM
Looking forward to restoration progress.

The ABS/TC lights may also be due to a bad wheel speed sensor. Sometimes they are just rusty/clogged with junk and a cleaning will fix the problem; if you need to replace, don't use cheap Chinese ones, they often will not solve the problem.

4liter
06-22-2017, 10:34 AM
602992

XAlt
06-22-2017, 10:55 AM
I've always like the bigger BMW motors, v8/v12s but it's shame the majority of them are autos. I'd spring for one if it were manual.

Any who, nice find.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using TapatalkYou can always make your own with the adapter plates. I'm saving up for a set now.

328iFun
06-22-2017, 11:10 AM
You can always make your own with the adapter plates. I'm saving up for a set now.
Sweet

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ColtonBH
06-22-2017, 12:06 PM
$700/12 = $58.33... just saying. Good luck with the project.
I was rounding XD

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ColtonBH
06-22-2017, 12:10 PM
Looking forward to restoration progress.

The ABS/TC lights may also be due to a bad wheel speed sensor. Sometimes they are just rusty/clogged with junk and a cleaning will fix the problem; if you need to replace, don't use cheap Chinese ones, they often will not solve the problem.
My 740il had a bad wheel speed sensor. The difference is, that threw abs/tc lights as soon as the car started, this doesn't throw them until the car hits ~3mph, which is right when the wheel speed sensor start picking up data. Anyway, I have a set of 235/60R16, where as these are 225/50R16 IIRC, so I'll test it out

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ColtonBH
06-22-2017, 12:11 PM
The most expensive car is a cheap BMW. Good luck.
If I didn't have a full e38 parts car I wouldn't have ever bought this, well, I probably would've actually.

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ColtonBH
06-22-2017, 12:13 PM
I've always like the bigger BMW motors, v8/v12s but it's shame the majority of them are autos. I'd spring for one if it were manual.

Any who, nice find.

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This motor and the chassis itself seem much more suited to an auto. Personally, I'd take an auto 750il over a manual conversation

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ColtonBH
06-22-2017, 12:48 PM
Dreams for interior. This has to be my favourite e38, I don't know who owns it, other than their Flickr is dominant_engineering. Since I would need to re-dye the interior black anyway, Might as well do a combo black and chocolate interior.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8127/29894500631_413c791e7c_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/MxF8wF)2016-09-28_12-05-37 (https://flic.kr/p/MxF8wF) by Dominic Biro (https://www.flickr.com/photos/46382132@N00/), on Flickr

haynes740
06-22-2017, 01:03 PM
Congrats on new purchase. I'll be watching your progress.

XAlt
06-22-2017, 02:19 PM
This motor and the chassis itself seem much more suited to an auto. Personally, I'd take an auto 750il over a manual conversation

Sent from my Nexus 6P using TapatalkI love my 4HP24 (forever jealous of fifth gear), but sometimes in life you just want to row your own.

ColtonBH
06-22-2017, 02:43 PM
I love my 4HP24 (forever jealous of fifth gear), but sometimes in life you just want to row your own.
The fact that the 750il has steptronic is a consolation

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purplecty
06-22-2017, 02:45 PM
Congrats! Look like you have some money to spend... A young bull like you should be able to tackle all of this and will be a fun restoration project for you...

StRaNgEdAyS
06-22-2017, 04:43 PM
Doesn't the 420G fit right up to that engine?

Absinthe makes the tart grow fonder

ColtonBH
06-22-2017, 05:06 PM
Congrats! Look like you have some money to spend... A young bull like you should be able to tackle all of this and will be a fun restoration project for you...
The purr of the V12 makes it worth all the trouble

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ColtonBH
06-22-2017, 05:13 PM
Begin dual battery trouble... Now!

It appears that the smaller battery for the auxillary power isn't charging, the symptoms are spelled out exactly in this person's post

I should also note that I took a spare battery and jumped it to the terminals on the top battery and everything was restored to normal. Also, the voltage on the dash diagnostics seems low, 13.5-13.7 with lights on and low 13s when at idle with lights on. My 740il was always at 14v
Is there a good, definitive test of the battery isolator that can tell me if it's bad and preventing it from charging? I do have two BMW batteries lying around as well that I could switch it with to test it out.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170622/546ed7bae5ddb70d6f4a7569c1edb80e.jpg

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ColtonBH
06-22-2017, 05:26 PM
$700/12 = $58.33... just saying. Good luck with the project.
I meant to type $58 XD
If a mod wants to fix that it would be greatly appreciated

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ColtonBH
06-22-2017, 05:38 PM
On a side note, I'm not going to build an exhaust yet, but mufflers will be chopped very soon. I can't stand how quiet this car is.

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Aitch
06-22-2017, 06:17 PM
On a side note, I'm not going to build an exhaust yet, but mufflers will be chopped very soon. I can't stand how quiet this car is.

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It makes a world of difference. The nice thing is it seems a bit better balanced than V8s with muffler deletes, which seem a bit over the top to my ear.

dannyzabolotny
06-22-2017, 07:46 PM
It makes a world of difference. The nice thing is it seems a bit better balanced than V8s with muffler deletes, which seem a bit over the top to my ear.

A V8 with a muffler delete is over the top? I have a muffler delete on my 540it and I can still barely hear the engine. Needs more loud.

psjr
06-22-2017, 09:29 PM
Begin dual battery trouble... Now!

It appears that the smaller battery for the auxillary power isn't charging, the symptoms are spelled out exactly in this person's post

I should also note that I took a spare battery and jumped it to the terminals on the top battery and everything was restored to normal. Also, the voltage on the dash diagnostics seems low, 13.5-13.7 with lights on and low 13s when at idle with lights on. My 740il was always at 14v
Is there a good, definitive test of the battery isolator that can tell me if it's bad and preventing it from charging? I do have two BMW batteries lying around as well that I could switch it with to test it out.

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The top battery is probably just dead, as is often the case on 750s.
There is nothing that can stop it from charging, as the alternator is hooked directly to the top battery.

ColtonBH
06-23-2017, 12:43 AM
The top battery is probably just dead, as is often the case on 750s.
There is nothing that can stop it from charging, as the alternator is hooked directly to the top battery.
Not too familiar with it all, is it top battery starter, bottom is electronics, or the other way around?

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ColtonBH
06-23-2017, 01:49 AM
A V8 with a muffler delete is over the top? I have a muffler delete on my 540it and I can still barely hear the engine. Needs more loud.

Agreed. My I6 was a bit too loud and drone-y with a muffler delete, but I think the m62 sounded wonderful with it, especially with the dual exhaust on the E38. Gave a nice rumble at idle, wasn't excessively loud, even at WOT.

ColtonBH
06-23-2017, 01:55 AM
Not too familiar with it all, is it top battery starter, bottom is electronics, or the other way around?

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I might just throw it on the charger tonight. The car was bought by the PO originally for an engine transplant into a 840i, he decided against it for whatever reason, but anyway, he told me the car had been sitting for 8 months without being started.

ColtonBH
06-23-2017, 02:24 AM
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4282/34636592184_a475f72aba_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ULHA8S)

I'm pretty thrilled that I managed to grab one of the last sets of 6 digit plates in Wisconsin after the switchover to 7, I can't stand 7 digit plates, so now I have 4 sets of them to my name for future vehicles

Aitch
06-23-2017, 10:53 AM
A V8 with a muffler delete is over the top? I have a muffler delete on my 540it and I can still barely hear the engine. Needs more loud.

It's all personal preference :) To me, my V12 with the delete is bang on. Sometimes I'd like a system that keeps the lower end volume the same as I have now, but allows more of a loud wail on the top end. But for $free it's just right at the moment.

I'd heard both V12 and V8 muffler delete videos online, and averaging them out, the V8 was definitely louder. While it sounded great when you're really leaning on it, I didn't want that day-to-day. I think if I'd had a V8 I'd have had to do a muffler swap, not a delete.

ColtonBH
06-24-2017, 12:31 PM
This was kinda funky, never got the chance to swap out batteries but I start it yesterday, and get this
Car is running, no tach, fuel, or dash lights, and it has reverted to Germanhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170624/cea9e7ad7dd89ac8735d0bb4064317c2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170624/5a844ea415bc4ce3a0e686e2be53809f.jpg

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ColtonBH
06-24-2017, 12:31 PM
Start it after work that night, all back to normal https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170624/17181a3b6d3ad748e1b97f1026f23e13.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170624/1400b085fdba4912a1172fbd8993bea7.jpg

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XAlt
06-24-2017, 12:35 PM
Ze battery ist kill

psjr
06-24-2017, 01:01 PM
Ze battery ist kill

+1...

ColtonBH
06-24-2017, 01:17 PM
Ze battery ist kill
Good, new one will go in ASAP

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ColtonBH
06-24-2017, 01:18 PM
Have brake parts in my shopping cart. I need to check the condition of my rotors, and see f they need to be replaced. I will at the very least have them turned

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Sundaycruzer
06-24-2017, 06:31 PM
Have brake parts in my shopping cart. I need to check the condition of my rotors, and see f they need to be replaced. I will at the very least have them turned

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I've been told by many BMW tech's not to turn rotors, yes it can be done but calipers have a greater tendency to have sticking issues when the pads wear down. I'm sure I'll catch flack for it but that's what I've been told. I buy irotor off eBay and throw them away when done 250-270 with pads all 4 move on


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ColtonBH
06-24-2017, 08:28 PM
Few more pics. And no, I will not cut my hair.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4231/34667738223_6148c91283_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/UPtdLx)IMG_20170622_185708 (https://flic.kr/p/UPtdLx) by Colton Hatcher (https://www.flickr.com/photos/143762283@N06/), on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4282/35477700615_5a251223a9_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W43unn)IMG_20170622_185620 (https://flic.kr/p/W43unn) by Colton Hatcher (https://www.flickr.com/photos/143762283@N06/), on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4283/35091169410_53f4a91a1c_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VsTq7f)IMG_20170622_185701 (https://flic.kr/p/VsTq7f) by Colton Hatcher (https://www.flickr.com/photos/143762283@N06/), on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4278/35477678405_477c279b12_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W43nLr)IMG_20170622_185738 (https://flic.kr/p/W43nLr) by Colton Hatcher (https://www.flickr.com/photos/143762283@N06/), on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4284/35437724916_f3705f48ce_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VZvAZb)IMG_20170622_185755 (https://flic.kr/p/VZvAZb) by Colton Hatcher (https://www.flickr.com/photos/143762283@N06/), on Flickr

alkumaish
06-24-2017, 09:09 PM
Wow.. that rust.. the pain

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ColtonBH
06-24-2017, 09:58 PM
Wow.. that rust.. the pain

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For a 700 car I think I can afford a new door. Anyway, it needs a repaint around the entire thing

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purplecty
06-24-2017, 10:14 PM
For a 700 car I think I can afford a new door. Anyway, it needs a repaint around the entire thing

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I saw this car for sale locally... looked pretty rough...

ColtonBH
06-24-2017, 10:41 PM
I saw this car for sale locally... looked pretty rough...
It is. But it runs like a dream.

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scrib99
06-24-2017, 11:33 PM
I'm following this thread I'm interested to see how this turns out. Been really wanting to pick up an E38. Love the body style since I was a kid

dannyzabolotny
06-25-2017, 01:27 AM
If it's a somewhat common color I'd just replace the door with a good, rust-free one. Or just get a black door which will be close enough for the time being until you repaint the car. The rest of the car looks to be in decent shape though! I'd change the wheels, those just don't look very good on a car as classy as a 750il.

Oh and I love the hair! Mine's not quite at that length anymore, but I'm growing it back out. It's pretty much shoulder-level at this point.

ColtonBH
06-25-2017, 01:30 AM
If it's a somewhat common color I'd just replace the door with a good, rust-free one. Or just get a black door which will be close enough for the time being until you repaint the car. The rest of the car looks to be in decent shape though! I'd change the wheels, those just don't look very good on a car as classy as a 750il.

Oh and I love the hair! Mine's not quite at that length anymore, but I'm growing it back out. It's pretty much shoulder-level at this point.
Wheels currently on will be sold, the tire size on them is wrong. Next summer I will hopefully paint it, I would like to do either current paint color, or Ferrari black (mainly because I want the license plate BLK SDN)

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ColtonBH
06-25-2017, 01:32 AM
Also, I have some 18 inch OZ wheels I really like. Currently striping all the paint, then I need to find a good alloy wheel shop that can straighten two of them. Then I need spacers. They they need to get powder coated, so it will be a while yet. For now, it's just going to get the basket weaves off of my 740il

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ColtonBH
06-25-2017, 01:33 AM
Front coils coming out of the 740ilhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170625/1eed67d39e262ab16aa966f31deee9c3.jpg

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ColtonBH
06-25-2017, 01:55 AM
No wonder my abs/tc lights are on. There are at least two different tire sizes on the car, and this is just on the front

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ColtonBH
06-25-2017, 02:02 AM
FR: Yokohama YK420 235/55
FL: Continental Touring Contact 235/60
RR: Continental Sport Contact 235/50
RL: Fuzion Touring 225/60

Not a single one of the tires are the same size.
Not a single one of the tires are the same model
There are three different brands of tires on this car


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ColtonBH
06-25-2017, 02:21 AM
On a better note, other than struts, everything on the front end is in better condition than my 740il. Center tie rod looks nearly new. All bushings look okay. Lower control arm looks to be the oldest piece, and it doesn't even look terrible. Brakes on the front are nearly new, so it must be the rear that are squeaking and have worn through the sensor. I'm pretty thrilled with this purchase, overall, the car is in pretty good condition. It just needs some love

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Aitch
06-25-2017, 10:47 AM
FR: Yokohama YK420 235/55
FL: Continental Touring Contact 235/60
RR: Continental Sport Contact 235/50
RL: Fuzion Touring 225/60

Not a single one of the tires are the same size.
Not a single one of the tires are the same model
There are three different brands of tires on this car


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There's your problem lol.

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NordmanMg
06-25-2017, 11:45 AM
Use same wheels at leas on the rear axle, or it can kill the differential ,
...
with all that problems with 750 you better start making 8-10k a month

XAlt
06-25-2017, 12:50 PM
Use same wheels at leas on the rear axle, or it can kill the differential ,
...
with all that problems with 750 you better start making 8-10k a monthHe has a parts car lol.

Colton, watch KTMP 24\7. 105C stat leaves absolutely no room for failure.

ColtonBH
06-25-2017, 01:31 PM
He has a parts car lol.

Colton, watch KTMP 24\7. 105C stat leaves absolutely no room for failure.
Is there a lower temp stat available for the m73? 105 is worryingly high

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ColtonBH
06-25-2017, 01:32 PM
Use same wheels at leas on the rear axle, or it can kill the differential ,
...
with all that problems with 750 you better start making 8-10k a month
They will be swapped tomorrow. Like XAlt said, parts car :)

The only money I've spent on the car so far is registration, and I already have tires and front suspension sorted

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xboss
06-25-2017, 01:55 PM
Nice, the V8 guys do not know what they are missing! A chromeline as well!

NordmanMg
06-25-2017, 02:06 PM
Nice, the V8 guys do not know what they are missing! A chromeline as well!

I have wood trim nobody else ever seen, who needs a chromeline lol,
and if I remember then there was something you was planning to mail to me? haha :D

ColtonBH
06-25-2017, 04:21 PM
I have wood trim nobody else ever seen, who needs a chromeline lol,
and if I remember then there was something you was planning to mail to me? haha :D
Me or xboss?

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NordmanMg
06-25-2017, 04:24 PM
Me or xboss?

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X know what I'm talking about lmao :D

xboss
06-25-2017, 04:25 PM
Me or xboss?

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I have some wood tissue holders coming out, I promised Nord one of the first since he sent me a wood part.

NordmanMg
06-25-2017, 04:26 PM
I have some wood tissue holders coming out, I promised Nord one of the first since he sent me a wood part.

Lol I thought it was a secret OMG :D :D :D

bluptgm3
06-25-2017, 05:11 PM
I meant to type $58 XD
If a mod wants to fix that it would be greatly appreciated

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You can edit your own post…


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ColtonBH
06-25-2017, 05:25 PM
You can edit your own post…


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I didn't think I could edit my title. Over 2000 posts and I still have no idea how to use a forum.

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auaq
06-25-2017, 06:32 PM
Lol. You look like the lead singer of Rage Against the Machine.

ColtonBH
06-25-2017, 07:00 PM
Lol. You look like the lead singer of Rage Against the Machine.
I've been told quite a few times I look like Jim Morrison XD

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ColtonBH
06-26-2017, 02:20 AM
I'm gonna start keeping a lookout for Orient Blue partouts, while I would love to repaint the car and get the dings out, being completely realistic, I'm gonna have to settle for replacing the passenger door and both bumpers, and giving the entire car a good wetsand and polish.

franco90
06-26-2017, 02:45 PM
Dreams for interior. This has to be my favourite e38, I don't know who owns it, other than their Flickr is dominant_engineering. Since I would need to re-dye the interior black anyway, Might as well do a combo black and chocolate interior.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8127/29894500631_413c791e7c_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/MxF8wF)2016-09-28_12-05-37 (https://flic.kr/p/MxF8wF) by Dominic Biro (https://www.flickr.com/photos/46382132@N00/), on Flickr

wow that's hot and love the color and steering wheel

ColtonBH
06-26-2017, 04:00 PM
Alright, so I have an incredibly loud squeaking coming from the engine engine bay. Seems to be coming from the distributors. From what I can tell, it's more from the driver side, but there is some from both. I'll pop those open asap and check for play. Are the bearings replaceable, or are we looking at a whole new unit?

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ColtonBH
06-27-2017, 02:40 AM
wow that's hot and love the color and steering wheel
I'm gonna try to go sort of OEM+. I like the steering wheel, but I would miss the heater in it way too much to even put a sport wheel in it. My plan at the moment is to try and find some Canyon Brown dye to match one of the newer BMW colors. I plan on doing center console, lower dash, and seats to start with, leaving everything else black, and I might do black alcantara on headliner, pillars, and setbacks, but that is $$$. If that turns out well, I might do some of the leather on the doors in the brown as well. For the trim, I have some badly cracked e39 trim lying around, I want to see if I can strip the clear off that and stain it black. If results are sub-par, I will just go gloss black on the trim.

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ColtonBH
06-28-2017, 02:02 PM
Seems the passenger rear wheel bearing is shot. I think I might pull the whole rear apart on my 740il, rebuild that, and then transfer it over to the 750il so I have minimal time with it out of service.

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psjr
06-28-2017, 02:38 PM
Unless your 740iL has SLS, there might be some differences.

ColtonBH
06-28-2017, 02:54 PM
The sls will be leaving my 750il shortly, I will run through realoem to check PNs, but I think most things should be the same

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ColtonBH
06-28-2017, 05:11 PM
Main things to fix right now are rear suspension, distributor seals, and tires

Tires, I have a few options, none of them are good.
I have a set of 15s with good tires, which obviously don't fit
I have the 16s that came with the car, but all mismatched tires
I have the 16s from my 740il, but they are badly flat spotted from my accident
I have 18s with bad tires, and 74.1 center
I have 18s that I need to finish refinishing, and I have a set of good tires for those
I have a couple assorted 16s from my e39

So out of all that, I don't have a single good set of wheels and tires at the moment :/
I'm running the flat spotted tires right now, which is fine because my I don't go over 50 going to work, but over 60 they are a nightmare. Considering buying snow tires while they are fairly cheap and running those until my 18s are done, at least they will be round

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M73PWR
06-28-2017, 05:22 PM
Main things to fix right now are rear suspension, distributor seals, and tires

Tires, I have a few options, none of them are good.
I have a set of 15s with good tires, which obviously don't fit
I have the 16s that came with the car, but all mismatched tires
I have the 16s from my 740il, but they are badly flat spotted from my accident
I have 18s with bad tires, and 74.1 center
I have 18s that I need to finish refinishing, and I have a set of good tires for those
I have a couple assorted 16s from my e39

So out of all that, I don't have a single good set of wheels and tires at the moment :/
I'm running the flat spotted tires right now, which is fine because my I don't go over 50 going to work, but over 60 they are a nightmare. Considering buying snow tires while they are fairly cheap and running those until my 18s are done, at least they will be round

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Sell the wheels and tires that you do not use and buy a set of tires off Craigslist to fit the wheels you want to keep :)

ColtonBH
06-28-2017, 07:37 PM
Still having battery troubles, replaced the top battery with the one out of my 740il. Now it will not start with that one in, I'm running just on the bottom battery right now. Im hoping it's just a charge issue, it's been sitting in the car for a month or two now without being started, so I have it on the 20a charger at work (my home charger is a wimpy 2a), so hopefully that gets it charged enough where I can start up with both batteries installed

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ColtonBH
06-29-2017, 05:12 PM
Is there a DIY on doing the distributor seals?

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ColtonBH
06-30-2017, 12:14 AM
Loads of used basket weave wheels around $200/set. Cheaper than buying a new set of tires, and when the tires are spent, I can scrap the wheels, or sell them for $100 or so

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NordmanMg
06-30-2017, 01:49 AM
Loads of used basket weave wheels around $200/set. Cheaper than buying a new set of tires, and when the tires are spent, I can scrap the wheels, or sell them for $100 or so

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If you keep going this route your 750 will end up parked on your lawn without any chance of being back on the road

ColtonBH
06-30-2017, 03:04 AM
If you keep going this route your 750 will end up parked on your lawn without any chance of being back on the road
I have a set of good wheels and tires, but the wheels need to be refinished before I mount tires. I need something temporarily that I can turn around and sell when I'm done. The only tires I have now that fit the e38 right now are flat spotted, and rather than buy brand new tires for a set of 16s that I'm not gonna put that many miles on, I'd rather get some for cheap that aren't flat spotted, and spend that money on getting the rest of the car in better shape.

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NordmanMg
06-30-2017, 10:48 AM
You have few nice sets for sale in your local cl

$600 with looks to be nice tires,
https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/wto/6179981640.html
https://images.craigslist.org/00X0X_ejDoanlLJxC_1200x900.jpg

$450 for the set of looks to be very clean wheels with tires you can use for a season
https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/wto/6193294537.html
https://images.craigslist.org/00T0T_iApwM3c4mCP_1200x900.jpg

if this would pop in Denver they would be in my garage already !
factory M5/6 fully forged wheels with nearly new Michelins? Oh boy
https://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/wto/6196299103.html
https://images.craigslist.org/00I0I_eM80kmGkX8a_1200x900.jpg

ColtonBH
06-30-2017, 03:28 PM
Might spring for that top set, I missed that one. I'll throw a couple sets of wheels I don't need or that don't fit up for sale, and see where we go from there

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ColtonBH
07-03-2017, 04:35 AM
Okay, attempting to figure out the squeal now.

First off, my year old, off brand battery doesn't seem to be doing a good job of holding a charge, so I put my several year old genuine BMW battery in, right now its on real low charge, so that seems to be the reasons for my low voltages.

There is an incredibly loud squealing/chirping sound coming from the front of the car. Originally, it seemed too correlate for the most part with engine temp, going away when fully warmed up. Now with the lower charge battery, it would not go away for more than a short time, even with the car fully warmed up. I had voltage up on the dash, and I noticed, whenever the voltage when under 13v, the car started squeaking, above 13.5v, the car did not squeak.

I realize correlation does not equal causation, but should I be thinking alternator? I should mention, this is with HVAC entirely off, so no AC kicking in, I can't come up with anything else that would affect both the serpentine belt and voltage, but if anyone has ideas, it would be a great help.

oldroller
07-03-2017, 05:59 AM
sounds like serpentine belt from alternator load. Check all the pulleys and belt for dirt/grime packed in the grooves, condition of the pulleys themselves.
If the belt looks questionable replace it.

bluptgm3
07-03-2017, 06:06 AM
Could also be a lazy or weak or seized belt tensioner that cannot re-tension the belt right after startup.


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ColtonBH
07-03-2017, 11:35 AM
Okay, cool. I will probably just buy both belts and tensioners, then I won't have to worry about it, I don't want to have to pull the whole front end apart more than once

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KSEADUB
07-03-2017, 12:29 PM
Might want to think about the alternator too while your in there. A healthy one shouldn't be putting out anything below about 13.5, even under full load.


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ColtonBH
07-04-2017, 05:23 PM
Might want to think about the alternator too while your in there. A healthy one shouldn't be putting out anything below about 13.5, even under full load.


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It's weird, the voltage will be anywhere from 9.0 to 13.8, its such large swings.
Anyway, I lost half a belt on the drive home from work, so I can't do anything until I get parts in the mail

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NordmanMg
07-04-2017, 07:19 PM
It's weird, the voltage will be anywhere from 9.0 to 13.8, its such large swings.
Anyway, I lost half a belt on the drive home from work, so I can't do anything until I get parts in the mail

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Maybe sometimes, before you got the car, the alternator been replaced with a V8 one?
You have to measure alternators pulley, V8 have larger pulley, V12 have smaller one due to lower idle rpm range
if so, it will not gonna charge or give enough power to keep battery alive

XAlt
07-04-2017, 08:48 PM
Both pulleys work, in practice it doesn't really make a difference.

NordmanMg
07-04-2017, 08:57 PM
Both pulleys work, in practice it doesn't really make a difference.

V12 with V8 pulley discharging battery on idle rpms

ColtonBH
07-05-2017, 03:41 AM
Driver side hood latch isn't opening :/

This car really isn't playing nice with me
Anyway, I ordered a used alternator, I'm guessing that was the cause of my problems, considering my alternator belt shredded, and the weird voltage crap. If the one on the car currently is just a bearing issue, I'll put in new bearings and keep it as a spare. Anyway, with both belts and tensioners, as well as an alternator in the mail, I'd like to think all my issues will be solved.

Since the car is out of commission for a few days, I'll start getting rear end parts pulled off of my 740il to go in this car, I'll get the rear coilovers in, sls deleted, and with any luck, I'll be good for a little while.

I should note that I'm getting a P0740 code, torque converter lock up something or other, which is fortunately the only code the car is throwing. Since I don't drive highway that much anymore, I'm not going to worry about it for a while. It hasn't affected anything that I can feel with the car.

ColtonBH
07-05-2017, 06:25 PM
Also, if anyone in the southern Wisconsin/northern Illinois area wants to do a facelift conversion on an orient blue e38, hit me up. I like the pre facelift front end better personally

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franco90
07-06-2017, 09:01 AM
I have some wood tissue holders coming out, I promised Nord one of the first since he sent me a wood part.

WELL i AM ALSO WAITING BUDDY

ColtonBH
07-06-2017, 11:27 AM
2.81 rear in 750il, 2.93 in 740il, right?

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ColtonBH
07-08-2017, 08:37 PM
Got new tensioners and belts in, so now I just have to wait on the alternator, and I get her up and running again. Until I get into the rear suspension, then we'll be back into it.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4214/35636984562_0e89594ed9_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Wi7RWj)

ColtonBH
07-08-2017, 08:48 PM
Here is my first interior mod for the car. This is a piece of e39 trim that I had lying around, so before I destroy my e38 trim, I would test it out. Boy is that finish tough, it took me many coats of aircraft stripper to get that far, I might have to try out a few more strippers just to keep my sanity. There is a little bit of the finish left on, but some stripper on that should get rid of it easy, and then I will do one more coat all over in order to pull as much of the original color out as possible. I also need to figure out a finish to go over, I would like to do a one part, since doing many coats of a 2 part would be a huge pita. I'm planning on spar urethane, and maybe baking it for a few hours to see if i can get it reasonably hard.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4254/35806129195_e5e03166c9_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Wy4LK6)IMG_20170708_192619 (https://flic.kr/p/Wy4LK6) by Colton Hatcher (https://www.flickr.com/photos/143762283@N06/), on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4277/35806128265_52f2bae802_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Wy4Lt4)IMG_20170708_192615 (https://flic.kr/p/Wy4Lt4) by Colton Hatcher (https://www.flickr.com/photos/143762283@N06/), on Flickr

- - - Updated - - -

I should note as well, the cracks that were in the original finish seem to go all the way through the wood, so there will be a couple lines coming through when it's finished, however, since it will be black, I don't think it'll be noticeable to be worth finding a full set of uncracked trim to strip and refinish. I am also very happy that the stripper isn't pulling whatever glue or epoxy is used to hold the veneer to the backing.

ColtonBH
07-08-2017, 10:21 PM
Seems as though my cable has either come unhooked from the latch itself, I can't get it to open by the usual methods. Next step, I'm going to try to break the hood latch with a crowbar or something, I just really hope I don't have to cut open the hood.

NordmanMg
07-08-2017, 10:46 PM
Seems as though my cable has either come unhooked from the latch itself, I can't get it to open by the usual methods. Next step, I'm going to try to break the hood latch with a crowbar or something, I just really hope I don't have to cut open the hood.

You can try to cut hood hooks , remove kidney grills off and you might be able to cut with saw blade

ColtonBH
07-08-2017, 10:54 PM
You can try to cut hood hooks , remove kidney grills off and you might be able to cut with saw bladeI'll try that first, I can just barely see it so maybe.

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ColtonBH
07-09-2017, 02:38 AM
Got the hood open, did have to break some stuff in order to get it open, but everything other than the left grill I should be able to pull off of my 740il. Hood is now slightly dented from the inside, I'm sure it will bother me once the rest of the car in better shape, but for now, it is what it is. Pics of the damage:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4255/35808848215_14dd31abfc_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WyiH1K)IMG_20170709_011751 (https://flic.kr/p/WyiH1K) by Colton Hatcher (https://www.flickr.com/photos/143762283@N06/), on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4208/35639650592_f74087807e_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Wimwsm)IMG_20170709_011647 (https://flic.kr/p/Wimwsm) by Colton Hatcher (https://www.flickr.com/photos/143762283@N06/), on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4283/35676813521_5e0a348933_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WmCZGv)IMG_20170709_011701 (https://flic.kr/p/WmCZGv) by Colton Hatcher (https://www.flickr.com/photos/143762283@N06/), on Flickr

Anyway, at least I can get started on the larger of the problems.

KSEADUB
07-09-2017, 12:35 PM
Got the hood open, did have to break some stuff in order to get it open, but everything other than the left grill I should be able to pull off of my 740il. Hood is now slightly dented from the inside, I'm sure it will bother me once the rest of the car in better shape, but for now, it is what it is. Pics of the damage:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4255/35808848215_14dd31abfc_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WyiH1K)IMG_20170709_011751 (https://flic.kr/p/WyiH1K) by Colton Hatcher (https://www.flickr.com/photos/143762283@N06/), on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4208/35639650592_f74087807e_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Wimwsm)IMG_20170709_011647 (https://flic.kr/p/Wimwsm) by Colton Hatcher (https://www.flickr.com/photos/143762283@N06/), on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4283/35676813521_5e0a348933_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WmCZGv)IMG_20170709_011701 (https://flic.kr/p/WmCZGv) by Colton Hatcher (https://www.flickr.com/photos/143762283@N06/), on Flickr

Anyway, at least I can get started on the larger of the problems.

Aw man. That sucks. Is that really the only way to do it when the cable breaks on these things?


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ColtonBH
07-09-2017, 12:40 PM
Aw man. That sucks. Is that really the only way to do it when the cable breaks on these things?


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkUsually it's much easier, however, my cable didn't even break, it popped out of the clip inside the latch, which made the usual method not easy or possible to do. I probably could've found a better way to do it, but it's open which is what's important

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KSEADUB
07-09-2017, 03:00 PM
Usually it's much easier, however, my cable didn't even break, it popped out of the clip inside the latch, which made the usual method not easy or possible to do. I probably could've found a better way to do it, but it's open which is what's important

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Bummer! Glad you have a parts car to pull from :)


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ColtonBH
07-10-2017, 04:04 AM
Since it started storming and I had to take a break from finishing up my car, I'll spell out everything with my belts.

First off, I was expecting extremely cracked and dry belts, they weren't. In fact, they both looked in very good shape (other than the fact that half the alternator belt shredded).

What's left of the alternator belt, it was OE:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4215/35443855810_e70ed0d7fa_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W142uf)IMG_20170709_234831 (https://flic.kr/p/W142uf) by Colton Hatcher (https://www.flickr.com/photos/143762283@N06/), on Flickr
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4264/35663162222_d6d199b1d1_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Wkr2Dh)IMG_20170709_234856 (https://flic.kr/p/Wkr2Dh) by Colton Hatcher (https://www.flickr.com/photos/143762283@N06/), on Flickr

Here was the A/C belt, which looked nearly brand new, but was a generic belt, and the cross section looked slightly different than my OEM replacement:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4277/35663167762_30f9006cb1_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Wkr4hN)IMG_20170709_234736 (https://flic.kr/p/Wkr4hN) by Colton Hatcher (https://www.flickr.com/photos/143762283@N06/), on Flickr
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4234/35443860940_d7bf7acc1c_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W1441G)IMG_20170709_234718 (https://flic.kr/p/W1441G) by Colton Hatcher (https://www.flickr.com/photos/143762283@N06/), on Flickr

Now onto the tensioners. The alternator belt tensioner seemed very good, slight play but not significantly more than the replacement. The hydraulic tensioner appeared to be fine, and working correctly. I reused this. The A/C tensioner had significant play in it, and the hydraulic tensioner seemed to be exerting less force than it should have been. I replaced the tensioner pulley, and put in an old style spring tensioner from out of my 740il, not permanently, but for now just to see if it solves my issues.

Alternator tensioner:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4208/34991998154_c54548e4f2_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Vj88X1)IMG_20170709_234749 (https://flic.kr/p/Vj88X1) by Colton Hatcher (https://www.flickr.com/photos/143762283@N06/), on Flickr

A/C tensioner:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4233/35699729311_5de51495a1_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WoErLk)IMG_20170709_234646 (https://flic.kr/p/WoErLk) by Colton Hatcher (https://www.flickr.com/photos/143762283@N06/), on Flickr

Now this brings us to the question, where is the obnoxiously loud squeaking coming from, and why did the alternator belt shred.
I'm not convinced that alternator is good, It seems like the charging circuit isn't working correctly, however, it spun freely. In fact, everything spins very smoothly with the exception of the power steering pump, which takes a bit more effort to turn, but I think thats more the nature of the vane pump than an issue with bearings or something. I have the car 95% put back together with new components, pretty much all that needs to be done yet is finish connecting the cooling system and bleeding it, then we will see if the problem is solved or not.

ColtonBH
07-10-2017, 11:37 AM
Ran and bled the car today, runs wonderfully. No belt screaming, and alternator is putting out between 13.5-13.7 volts

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ColtonBH
07-10-2017, 01:45 PM
Once I finally got it apart, I realized that I could've done it that way. It's good to know for the future, although I'll get all new cables in so hopefully it will no longer be an issue.

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ColtonBH
07-10-2017, 01:48 PM
Now more issues, I finally got in to get an emissions test, and naturally, failed. I could've sworn I passed on my V8 while I had a CEL, but apparently not, that's what's killing me. I'll see if I can find someone to code in the area, just to fake it temporarily. I think it is visual only, so I might be able to go to one of the more sketchy test places and see if if I can pay the emissions guy a couple $20s to "repair" the issue

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purplecty
07-10-2017, 02:44 PM
Now more issues, I finally got in to get an emissions test, and naturally, failed. I could've sworn I passed on my V8 while I had a CEL, but apparently not, that's what's killing me. I'll see if I can find someone to code in the area, just to fake it temporarily. I think it is visual only, so I might be able to go to one of the more sketchy test places and see if if I can pay the emissions guy a couple $20s to "repair" the issue

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You'll never pass any emission test with a CEL...

dannyzabolotny
07-10-2017, 04:05 PM
Somehow my 1995 750il passed the dyno sniffer emissions test here in Arizona, despite not running all that well and having a pretty massive exhaust leak.

ColtonBH
07-10-2017, 04:24 PM
I missed a code before, P1404, heated catalyst current too high. Now I'm not quite sure hot to fix that, but I might go to the local BMW Indy and see if they can force emissions readiness and see if that makes the CEL go away, if all else fails, I'll temporarily register the car to the next county over

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ColtonBH
07-10-2017, 05:39 PM
Why can't all BMW ECUs be as easy as an MS43

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Ruskii
07-10-2017, 10:58 PM
Since it started storming and I had to take a break from finishing up my car, I'll spell out everything with my belts.

First off, I was expecting extremely cracked and dry belts, they weren't. In fact, they both looked in very good shape (other than the fact that half the alternator belt shredded).

What's left of the alternator belt, it was OE:
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4215/35443855810_e70ed0d7fa_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W142uf)
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4264/35663162222_d6d199b1d1_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Wkr2Dh)


Did you figure out what caused your Conti belt to shred like that? My brand new belt (also Conti) got destroyed due to a slightly bent outer lip on the alternator's pulley.

NordmanMg
07-10-2017, 11:33 PM
Check all pulleys, one of them might be misaligned, and it will cause extensive belt wear

Sundaycruzer
07-11-2017, 09:58 PM
Somehow my 1995 750il passed the dyno sniffer emissions test here in Arizona, despite not running all that well and having a pretty massive exhaust leak.

Exhaust leak will put more oxygen in the tail pipe... which means lower emissions untapped loophole lol


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Sundaycruzer
07-11-2017, 10:02 PM
Check all pulleys, one of them might be misaligned, and it will cause extensive belt wear

Even the mounts for the alternator, idler pulleys possibly crank pulley. has to be alinement issue. For sure


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ColtonBH
07-12-2017, 02:39 AM
I got my new to me alternator in the mail. I did tensioners without pulling the front end off, but I think I'm gonna take the whole front off and make sure everything lines up, get my new alternator in, and clean up the engine.

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NordmanMg
07-12-2017, 09:13 AM
Yea, not much room in a v12

KSEADUB
07-12-2017, 11:56 AM
I got my new to me alternator in the mail. I did tensioners without pulling the front end off, but I think I'm gonna take the whole front off and make sure everything lines up, get my new alternator in, and clean up the engine.

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Yeah. A good clean can be so satisfying.


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ColtonBH
07-14-2017, 01:59 PM
I think I'm gonna try out the 2.93 from my 740il in my 750il, and if that's not enough, I'll find a 3.15. this car is not angry enough like the V8s are, I need something to make it more aggressive XD

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dannyzabolotny
07-14-2017, 02:06 PM
The 3.15 really wakes these V12's up, but you have to remember that you're losing some of that cruising capability if you do that. Most of my driving is highway driving so the 3.15 in my 540it and 3.91 in my X5 4.6is get old pretty fast.

ColtonBH
07-14-2017, 02:13 PM
I'm not terribly worried about it, the cruising rpm is so low on these cars to start with, and a 2.93 might be a happy medium. My 740 cruised at around 2700 rpm iirc, so this would be the same, assuming the 5hp24 and 30 have the same gearing

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asianvenom
07-15-2017, 03:29 AM
3.15 is nice I have them in both of my 740 and 750, 2.91 from 2.80 isn't that big of a difference. 3.93 is just nuts lol

ColtonBH
07-15-2017, 11:18 PM
Not sure why I didn't think of this sooner, but I should just swap the entire rear subframe assemblies between my two e38s. That would pretty much take care of everything that needs taking care of suspension and brake wise, but as a bonus I would already have the 2.93 swapped in, and it would be much less tedious than swapping all the parts individually, even if I had to do something like swap driveshafts as well.

- - - Updated - - -

I should note as well, as much as I would like to do a full suspension refresh, I have to write a nice big check to a college pretty soon, so that would not be financially smart at this point, and swapping everything would get me well past the "good enough" mark in terms of suspension.

ColtonBH
07-15-2017, 11:27 PM
One more thing, after clearing codes, P0740 has not come back, which makes it seem it was a fluke, especially, since the TC seems to lock and unlock as one normally would.

ColtonBH
07-16-2017, 01:27 AM
Also, my wood trim project is going along, sort of. I got my test piece fully stripped, sanded, and stained with Zar's Black Oynx, and have to say, it looks great. I also tried VHT Engine Enamel Clear on it, mainly because I was impressed by the hardness of the finish on my brake calipers. The finish isn't coming out particularly well, even with sanding, so I think I will go to a brush on spar urethane. I will get pictures of how it looks compared to stock trim color in the daylight.
The main drawback is the stripping, this single e39 center console took about 10 coats of aircraft stripper, and nearly as many hours of work to get where I am today. I don't have the sanity to do that for 20 or so pieces. I'm gonna see if I can find a good container to put them all in, and just let it all soak in stripper, and hope that works.

ColtonBH
07-16-2017, 02:07 AM
part
740il
750il


Subframe
Same
same


Swing Arm
same
same


Integral link
same
same


front suspension link
same
same


Wishbone
same
same


Carrier
same
same


Hub
same
same


Sway bar
same
same


Output shafts (different pn's, should both be 94mm)



33207504708 (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part?id=GJ03-USA-01-2001-E38-BMW-750iL&mg=33&sg=25&diagId=33_1063&q=33207504708)



33211229214 (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part?id=GJ83-USA-03-1998-E38-BMW-740iL&mg=33&sg=25&diagId=33_1063&q=33211229214)


Guibo
same
same






















































































































































33207504708 (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part?id=GJ03-USA-01-2001-E38-BMW-750iL&mg=33&sg=25&diagId=33_1063&q=33207504708)


I'll add more to this list if needed, but it looks like there should be no problem. The one questionable thing is the driveshaft, they won't swap due to the 5hp30 being slightly longer than the 5hp24, but if for whatever reason the 750 driveshaft is a different size than the 740 diff input shaft, I could make a frankenshaft using the first half of the 750 shaft and the rear half of the 740 shaft, but I don't forses that being needed. This might be easier than I had originally anticipated.

ColtonBH
07-16-2017, 03:06 AM
Updated my sig, about damn time.

ColtonBH
07-17-2017, 05:29 PM
I found out that even without the rear coils on, I scrape driving out the bank driveway, so now I need to street park and walk in like a peasant

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ColtonBH
07-21-2017, 04:31 AM
Got Sofie's subframe mostly dropped. I was hoping that I could do it without completely unbolting the exhaust, which obviously was wishful thinking, so I'll drag out the sawzall tomorrow and chop it out. Completely forget about the parking brake line, so I need to disconnect that. Once I cut out the exhaust, I should be able to lift up the car and have real easy access to the driveshaft

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ColtonBH
07-21-2017, 04:32 AM
Also, even with welding gloves on to clear up this mess, I still managed to get a couple glass splinters :/https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/a3a53fcdfacb03045ccbf19f3b7d04a0.jpg

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NordmanMg
07-21-2017, 09:59 AM
Also, even with welding gloves on to clear up this mess, I still managed to get a couple glass splinters :/https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170721/a3a53fcdfacb03045ccbf19f3b7d04a0.jpg

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You use vacuum cleaner to lift that up

purplecty
07-21-2017, 10:46 AM
What happened? Dual pane windows broken?

ColtonBH
07-21-2017, 12:17 PM
What happened? Dual pane windows broken?This is in my old 740il, the one that I'm borrowing parts from. The wheel bearings, and suspension in general are much better on it, so it's getting swapped from Sofie to my 750il

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ColtonBH
07-21-2017, 12:19 PM
You use vacuum cleaner to lift that up2:00 am when I did it, can't be waking everyone up with loud stuff

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ColtonBH
07-21-2017, 04:34 PM
Put an OEM battery in out of my 740il, I'll leave it on a trickle charger for the next couple nights, but I'm getting 13.9-14.1v on the dash, so I think I'm golden as far as electricals goes

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MrRockaV12
07-22-2017, 01:36 AM
Congratulations buddy! I just picked up mine 3 weeks ago but not for such a great steal like you lol i paid after title transfer and tag $2800 and i just tonight finished putting in both brand new BMW 70ah and 110ah batteries. Took me about maybe 30/45 mins to learn it all and get it all buttoned up with still some codes and running very rough but i am working with her. Definitely subscribing to the build thread but post pics also lol i want to see the diff swap.

ColtonBH
07-22-2017, 05:03 PM
Congratulations buddy! I just picked up mine 3 weeks ago but not for such a great steal like you lol i paid after title transfer and tag $2800 and i just tonight finished putting in both brand new BMW 70ah and 110ah batteries. Took me about maybe 30/45 mins to learn it all and get it all buttoned up with still some codes and running very rough but i am working with her. Definitely subscribing to the build thread but post pics also lol i want to see the diff swap.I need to get better with posting pics for sure. My diff swap will be different than most, because I am moving the whole subframe from one car to another, but I'll still show pictures

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ColtonBH
07-22-2017, 05:04 PM
Get your own thread going as well!

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MrRockaV12
07-23-2017, 12:09 AM
Get your own thread going as well!

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Oh dont you know it! Once i really start going at it then i will but for now she just sits and waits for me patiently to gather the money up so i can spoiler her.

Looking forward to the pics though dude lol

ColtonBH
07-26-2017, 07:02 PM
Hood latch is fixed (sort of), bumper is back on, and I cleaned out the wheels. Just need to find a day to swap out rear axle and brakes, and fix the emissions equipment, and I should be set for a whilehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170726/e0d37d7f77b2f460d720915a97fffbd9.jpg

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MKIVJZA80
07-27-2017, 12:51 AM
the car is lowered in the front?

ColtonBH
07-27-2017, 02:18 AM
the car is lowered in the front?Coilovers in front, rears will go in with the new axle. I suppose you could say it's lowered in the rear as well, if you count leaking, bottomed out SLS lowered. I can't stand rake though, the rear needs to be low.

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dannyzabolotny
07-27-2017, 02:56 AM
I seriously think this 750il is the nicest car you've owned so far. Decent engine, what appears to be good paint, and has a fairly straight body.

ColtonBH
07-27-2017, 03:04 AM
I seriously think this 750il is the nicest car you've owned so far. Decent engine, what appears to be good paint, and has a fairly straight body.My E39 was without a doubt the cleanest car I had, I got that for a steal. Paint was beautiful, a total of two dings over the car. It was pampered the first 180k of its life, being a dealer car for about the first 60k. It was high mileage, but everything on it was in near perfect condition and very well maintained.

The body of the 750il isnt as good as it looks in pictures, paint is badly scratched over the entire vehicle, bumper is cracked in many places, the interior is very worn out, bad rust on two doors. However, I plan on making this $700 car into a $7000 car over the next several years.

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dannyzabolotny
07-27-2017, 01:45 PM
My E39 was without a doubt the cleanest car I had, I got that for a steal. Paint was beautiful, a total of two dings over the car. It was pampered the first 180k of its life, being a dealer car for about the first 60k. It was high mileage, but everything on it was in near perfect condition and very well maintained.

The body of the 750il isnt as good as it looks in pictures, paint is badly scratched over the entire vehicle, bumper is cracked in many places, the interior is very worn out, bad rust on two doors. However, I plan on making this $700 car into a $7000 car over the next several years.



You'd be surprised what a good paint correction could do. It may not make the paint perfect, but it'll probably make it a lot better.

And I'm excited to see what you'll do with this car long term.... as long as you don't crash it.

ColtonBH
07-31-2017, 12:58 AM
Playing catch-up a little bit, here's the work from last night, this hose from my O2 pump had pretty much dissolved

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4309/35445514084_7968b13a15_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W1cwrb)IMG_20170730_011414 (https://flic.kr/p/W1cwrb) by Colton Hatcher (https://www.flickr.com/photos/143762283@N06/), on Flickr


I found this, which would explain my my slightly rough idle.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4322/35884975670_93c6d86aeb_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WF2T45)IMG_20170730_010913 (https://flic.kr/p/WF2T45) by Colton Hatcher (https://www.flickr.com/photos/143762283@N06/), on Flickr


On to today, I got the 740il's subframe dropped-ish. I need to chop up the exhuast some more to get it out from under the car, but everything is disconnected.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4327/36146028381_086a413910_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/X56QVT)IMG_20170730_230659 (https://flic.kr/p/X56QVT) by Colton Hatcher (https://www.flickr.com/photos/143762283@N06/), on Flickr

dannyzabolotny
07-31-2017, 01:05 AM
Holy rust, batman. Good find on that intake boot, that'll definitely mess up your idle. That's the M73's achilles heel in my opinion— vacuum leaks. There are so many little hoses everywhere and everything is doubled so it's a lot of fun to track it all down.

ColtonBH
07-31-2017, 02:07 AM
Holy rust, batman. Good find on that intake boot, that'll definitely mess up your idle. That's the M73's achilles heel in my opinion— vacuum leaks. There are so many little hoses everywhere and everything is doubled so it's a lot of fun to track it all down.There's a lot of bad rubber on this car, not looking forward to replacing all of it :/

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dannyzabolotny
07-31-2017, 02:56 AM
There's a lot of bad rubber on this car, not looking forward to replacing all of it :/

Haha, I have lots of fond memories of replacing all the rubber fuel lines on my 750il. They just kept bursting one after another so I said "screw it" and replaced all of them at once, including the whole fuel tank (that was a LOT of fun). And then I had to replace the fuel pump shortly after. The new owner really appreciated it as he's well past 205k miles on the car now with no real issues (I sold it with 188k miles).

ColtonBH
07-31-2017, 05:44 PM
This two codes in conjunction have to mean I need a new cat, right? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170731/e95be16b16c0c3915d48b4b2e955549a.jpg

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ColtonBH
07-31-2017, 05:51 PM
I have 5 days to pass an emissions test, and I can file a 30 day extension for that yet, but I need this done soon. Since bank 1 seems to be fine as off now, I might take a resistance reading off of the cat heater, and make up a spoof for bank 2, and then post cat O2 spacers. Since I'd like to do an X pipe, cat delete, and glasspacks in place of the resonator anyway, this might be a good time to get emissions sorted out.

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M73PWR
07-31-2017, 06:41 PM
Cats are expensive and my $0.02 shotgunning parts as troubleshooting could become very expensive.
Can your scanner read out the AFR for both pre and post cat?
Both of my 95 and 98 m73 have original cats and still running strong.

I would check o2 sensors first.
Consider swapping the sensors from one side to another and see if the failure follows.

dannyzabolotny
08-01-2017, 04:22 AM
Yeah, I'd recommend checking the readouts of the pre- and post-cat O2 sensors to see if everything's behaving properly.

ColtonBH
08-01-2017, 04:38 PM
Can you do that in the hidden dash functions? I don't have a scanner that will do that :/

I wonder if that crack in the intake boot could be throwing it off as well, since that is post maf. Might run with both unplugged and clear the code to get it to go away

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ColtonBH
08-01-2017, 04:38 PM
Subframe in the daylighthttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170801/f10759a95f16466b866a299bc83e27fa.jpg

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NordmanMg
08-01-2017, 04:47 PM
Not sure why I didn't think of this sooner, but I should just swap the entire rear subframe assemblies between my two e38s. That would pretty much take care of everything that needs taking care of suspension and brake wise, but as a bonus I would already have the 2.93 swapped in, and it would be much less tedious than swapping all the parts individually, even if I had to do something like swap driveshafts as well.

- - - Updated - - -

I should note as well, as much as I would like to do a full suspension refresh, I have to write a nice big check to a college pretty soon, so that would not be financially smart at this point, and swapping everything would get me well past the "good enough" mark in terms of suspension.

Now, going back to this post right here .
you know that 740 and 750 have different-ish rear subframes right?
740 does not have rear sway bar, and also brackets to put one on it, plus left lower arm does not have bracket for sway link. So you need to transfer everything from 740 to 750 subframe.
Then 750 have thicker aka ventilated rear brake rotors and different calipers. So that's have to get back onto 750 as well

ColtonBH
08-01-2017, 04:53 PM
Now, going back to this post right here .
you know that 740 and 750 have different-ish rear subframes right?
740 does not have rear sway bar, and also brackets to put one on it, plus left lower arm does not have bracket for sway link. So you need to transfer everything from 740 to 750 subframe.
Then 750 have thicker aka ventilated rear brake rotors and different calipers. So that's have to get back onto 750 as wellI appreciate this, I knew about the rotors and brakes, I was planning on transferring them. I did completely overlook the sway bar, so this was a waste of time now. My main purpose in doing this was because my wheel bearings were better on the 740il, and she suspension was less worn overall. I might see how easy the carriers will swap, but I'll probably just do rear wheel bearings like I should've in the first place. Anyone need a subframe?

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ColtonBH
08-01-2017, 04:59 PM
I think the new plan of action is to swap axles with the carrier/hub whatever it's called, which will still allow me to avoid doing anything with wheel bearings for now. My 740ils we're replaced ~30,000 miles ago by the PO so they should be alright yet. The sway bar attaches to the swing arm?

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M73PWR
08-01-2017, 05:47 PM
I feel like your attempt to save money by swapping stuff around is costing you more at the end.

ColtonBH
08-01-2017, 05:57 PM
Right now it's only costing time

And I don't really consider this a waste, I'm learning with everything I do. I bought an E39 two and a half years ago knowing nothing about them, and now I know more than I ever expected. I'm fine with this not working out, now I know more, so next I'll try something else

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M73PWR
08-01-2017, 07:38 PM
Right now it's only costing time

And I don't really consider this a waste, I'm learning with everything I do. I bought an E39 two and a half years ago knowing nothing about them, and now I know more than I ever expected. I'm fine with this not working out, now I know more, so next I'll try something else

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More power to you, my dude!
Good attitude to have when tackling a project [emoji1360][emoji1360][emoji1360]

ColtonBH
08-04-2017, 05:25 PM
I think I'm going to drop the sway bar on the 750 until I can afford a suspension refresh. I don't track the car, and the coilovers with help with roll, not to mention other e38s don't have it so it's not that big of a deal. I can take as long as I want taking apart my 740il, but my 750 is my daily and I can't have it out for more than a day or so piecing suspension parts together.

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M73PWR
08-04-2017, 07:36 PM
Front or rear sway bar?

ColtonBH
08-04-2017, 07:46 PM
Rear. And then I'll just bolt in the entire 740il subframe as my original plan was

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computiNATEor
08-05-2017, 04:01 AM
Eliminating the rear sway bar would, in theory, A) increase understeer (so what) and B) improve ride quality, because the rear suspension is now more "independent." I don't think you'll have any problems.

ColtonBH
08-05-2017, 04:24 AM
Right. If it's okay for a 740, my 750 will just have to deal with it. It beats asking off work for two days in a row so I can get all this crap done

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ColtonBH
08-10-2017, 04:02 PM
Subframe should be ready to put on. While it was on the car, after 8 hours I still hadn't budged the lower strut mount. With the subframe off, a torch, a pipe wrench, and a 4 foot pipe, it took 5 minutes a side

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4336/35648500894_302008a851_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Wj8TkL)

"Yes mom, its supposed to be on fire"

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4397/35648494844_e9f1a7e766_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Wj8Rxs)


Tossed some wheels on to hopefully make it easier to install.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4426/36483754505_bd6c65c7ae_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XzWM96)


I also made some rubber gaskets to go on top of the rear coilovers in order to decrease road noise transfer. The fronts are more critical, as they have pillow ball mounts and thus have direct metal to metal contact throughout the entire strut, so I will make a pair for those as well.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4397/36349807721_147855a0a3_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Xo7gqM)

Cosmic E38
08-10-2017, 09:44 PM
I just noticed you're from Wisconsin too. I thought I recognized that rust in the pics!

computiNATEor
08-10-2017, 11:17 PM
Some POR15 and it'll be fine ;)

ColtonBH
08-11-2017, 02:51 AM
Some POR15 and it'll be fine ;)Didn't even try that hard, just took a wire brush and some black Rust-Oleum to the welds to help a little with future rust

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ColtonBH
08-11-2017, 04:15 PM
I just noticed you're from Wisconsin too. I thought I recognized that rust in the pics!You in the Milwaukee area?

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Cosmic E38
08-11-2017, 05:55 PM
I'm in Wausau. Too bad you aren't closer you could come use my shop.

- - - Updated - - -

Wanna find some body rust? Pull off the lower door moldings. I also found some rust under the belt molding. I'm sand blasting mine tomorrow.

ColtonBH
08-11-2017, 08:22 PM
Oh I'm way past that

Luckily, 2 doors have no visible rust, so I should be able to repair what's under the trim piece and call it good. The other two doors I will pick up the next time there is a Orient blue in the local yards.

It's also nice that the bad rust is passenger side, the only time i have to look at it is while I'm opening the door for my gfhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170812/fb1c39cdc1d4f60b9adc023b8bf39025.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170812/ec374ff9ed2374893024ac1dea58157f.jpg

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MKIVJZA80
08-12-2017, 06:49 AM
if the Orient blue is a 2001, i'm in need of that painted lower trim for left rear door!

Thanks

- - - Updated - - -

wish you were closer. i have a bunch of Orient Blue iL doors lying around, rust free. i need to get rid of them as they've been sitting forever. will let them go for cheap.

Cosmic E38
08-12-2017, 08:30 AM
Wow! Thats pretty bad. Too bad Wisconsin doesn't use sand instead of salt.

Cosmic E38
08-12-2017, 06:42 PM
If you sandblast that door the bottom is going to look like swiss cheese.

ColtonBH
08-12-2017, 07:01 PM
If you sandblast that door the bottom is going to look like swiss cheese.For sure. I'll get them from the yard sometime, I'm in no hurry

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ColtonBH
08-12-2017, 07:02 PM
Anyone off hand know the torque spec of the diff bolts?

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Cosmic E38
08-12-2017, 08:31 PM
You may want to pull of your rocker moldings too and see what kind of rust is lurking beneath. My car had a little but it cleaned up right away with the blaster. Another spot is beneath the rear bumper cover. There is a grommet that collects moisture and rusts. That was an easy fix too.

ColtonBH
08-14-2017, 01:32 AM
My 750il is going to lose the adjustable rear seats very soon. They're awful, half of the moving parts don't work, and they are ridiculous to get in and out. I'll pop in the black out of my 740 for now, and then pick up gray the next time I see some for sale so it matches and eventually dyes evenly

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dannyzabolotny
08-14-2017, 03:05 AM
Eh, I'd rather fix the moving bits, that's one of the coolest features of the 750il (aside from the V12).

ColtonBH
08-14-2017, 03:07 AM
It's a cool feature, but it's rare that there's anyone in my back seat to enjoy them. I'll probably keep them around and maybe fix them some day, or get working ones, but the cool factor of having them really isn't worth it to me. I'll transfer the seat heaters over to the non moving seats.

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ColtonBH
08-14-2017, 03:15 AM
Besides, I've been kinda been eyeing up W220s lately, so I might pick one up a few years from now (e34 540i/6 and l322 are still ahead on car want list) and make that into my ultimate luxo barge.

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ColtonBH
08-14-2017, 04:20 AM
Axle with SLS and 2.81 diff is out, coilovers and 2.93 will soon be in!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170814/6811af740e7a5b4e12146e2a7e035c97.jpg

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purplecty
08-14-2017, 09:53 AM
Why not 3.15?

ColtonBH
08-14-2017, 01:52 PM
Why not 3.15?Because my 740il had the 2.93, so I didn't have to spend any extra money on it

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ColtonBH
08-15-2017, 01:43 AM
New subframe is in! It went very well for one person, 3 bricks, and two Jack's used to get it in!

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ColtonBH
08-15-2017, 01:50 AM
If I just don't plug in the brake wear sensors, does the light go off? Or do I need to short the connection? I like to think I'm competent enough with maintenance to be able to check of the brakes are worn out without needing them, and one less light on the dashboard is always nice

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ColtonBH
08-15-2017, 02:38 AM
Rear coils inhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170815/877f10728437d2244280aa0217868c78.jpg

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computiNATEor
08-15-2017, 02:41 AM
Rear coils in

Aw, yeah, livin' the low life, I see! ;)

ColtonBH
08-15-2017, 03:02 AM
Aw, yeah, livin' the low life, I see! ;)It's the only way to live XD

It'll look much better after I finally get my 18s refinished. That'll put me at about half the sidewall tucked in the rear, and 1/4 of the sidewall tucked in the front, which is just where I want it. I'm sick of the rake!

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M73PWR
08-15-2017, 02:35 PM
With the rear seats and rear subframe out of the 740, if your m73 takes a dump are you also going to swap in the m62 out of your 740? Lol

ColtonBH
08-15-2017, 09:47 PM
That's basically the plan XD

The sway bar in the 750 is incredibly wimpy, it's barely even worth putting back in.

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ColtonBH
08-15-2017, 09:51 PM
Nothing about my rear seats is any good either, leather is bad, adjusters are bad. I really don't like the look of poofier, loose let her for auto seats, and it seems like that's more what most adjustable seats are like vs non adjustable. If I'm going to spend loads of time dying leather, I want it to look very good

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M73PWR
08-16-2017, 01:51 AM
Have you looked at leatherique products? They help restore leather pretty damn good

ColtonBH
08-16-2017, 01:52 AM
I've been looking at that for dyes, there seem to have some pretty damn good stuff

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computiNATEor
08-16-2017, 03:16 AM
Leatherique's Pristine Clean and Rejuvenator Oil are great, but I've come to love Griot's Garage Leather Rejuvenator, too. It's less expensive and less messy, though it does require more applications to achieve similar results to the Leatherique. It's a better option as a one-step product.

ColtonBH
08-16-2017, 06:36 PM
Here's the finished product. I still have a couple things to do, such as re install rear seats, wheel speed sensors, the like because I finished getting the mechanical bits with 5 minutes to spare before I had to leave for work. I'll probably double check torque on all the bolts once a week for the next couple weeks, but it feels so much better already. There is a noticeable difference going from the 2.81 diff to the 2.93, albeit not much. Also got a line on some good priced winter tires. The size is about 3% off (215/70R16) but they'll work for a couple winter's, if all goes well, I will pick them up Monday

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ColtonBH
08-16-2017, 06:37 PM
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170816/7cabcf499f88ac2edfb6d2300b660c5a.jpg

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XAlt
08-16-2017, 06:55 PM
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk607908

ColtonBH
08-25-2017, 06:13 PM
Not much done recently, trying to get my 740il disassembled and out of the drive. Rear subframe is behaving well, as well as coilovers. It's developed a shake coming from the rear when braking, so I'll have to pull that apart again. I reused everything, so one of these days I'll have rotors turned and I have a set of new pads to go on, hopefully that solves problems. I desperately need new tires, but I need to sell my 740il chassis to find them. I also think I'm going to change my long term plan on the interior. I'll do all black, I have everything from my 740il. Gray leather dash lower and center console will be sold, black non leather will take their place, eventually to be wrapped in ultrasuede/alcantara, along with pillars and headliner, which is failing on both cars. Trim will still be restained if I can figure out an efficient way to strip old clear off of everything. The black leather on my 740il seats is recoverable, so that will be transferred over to my gray front seats in order to keep the butt massagers, as well as my 740il driver seat has a short that burns a fuse whenever I move it. Rear seats from the 740il will be moved over, but will get the heaters from the 750il seats. Adjustable rear seat parts will be removed, as they are all basically broken, and I like the look and ease of removal from non adjustable seats better anyways

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MKIVJZA80
08-26-2017, 11:31 PM
leather dash in grey interior cars are the same shade as the black dashes. don't get rid of it, one of the biggest pluses the 750s have over the 740.

ColtonBH
08-26-2017, 11:48 PM
leather dash in grey interior cars are the same shade as the black dashes. don't get rid of it, one of the biggest pluses the 750s have over the 740.I should say, I'd be keeping the black upper dash, taking out the gray lower, and covering my black non-leather lower in alcantara and plopping that in.

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M73PWR
08-27-2017, 01:14 PM
So you're removing the leather interior for a plastic one?

ColtonBH
08-27-2017, 01:31 PM
So you're removing the leather interior for a plastic one?Sort of. It will be covered in ultrasuede though, eventually. I'd rather cover plastic than leather. The lower dash and center console are in good condition, but everything else is just plain worn out, rips war through, etc. I'm not gonna get rid of everything, upper dash is in very good condition, and it's black, so that'll stay. I might combine some of the still okay leather from the door cards and dye it black.

The main point is, in my opinion, an all black, good condition interior with a little bit of plastic bits looks about 100x better than an worn out, fading, ripped gray leather interior. I'm a college student, if I'm gonna spend money on stuff for my car, it's going to be to get mechanical bits running well, full black leather would be wonderful, but it's not an option right now, so I'm going to make the best with parts that cost only the time it takes to remove them from my parts car

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ColtonBH
10-04-2017, 04:05 PM
Wrap my non-leather console and lower dash in Alcantara or have my leather lower dash and console dyed black?

- - - Updated - - -

Also, are these cars really meant to be ran in the 95-105C range? It got chillier so I realized that my t-stat is stuck open because under 60F outside the car doesn't warm up to over 65C, but when its hot, it stays in the 80-84C range, which apparently is still very low. Is the clutch fan meant to be basically always on? Because mine kicks in right around 84-85C. Also, is 95C the coldest M73 stat available?

computiNATEor
10-04-2017, 09:19 PM
Vinyl dyes have gotten very good. I'd be concerned that the Alcantara will fade/wear/stain, especially in an area near beverages, and oils from hands and forearms.

They run hot for better emissions control; when my M54 thermostat failed (stuck around 85ºC), the heat didn't work properly. The hotter the combustion chamber, the more toxic gasses can be burned up by the catalytic converters more easily. If the engine is running cold, it will consume more fuel (than it already does), and it may shorten the life of the cats (because they are working harder to burn up the unburned fuel).

The clutch fans are always rotating a little bit; it doesn't fully disengage. My 2015 Behr clutch fan in my 530iA starts making a lot of noise (that heavy truck-like mechanical fan roar) around 94ºC (indicated in OBC test 7), but quiets down very quickly once the car moves off the line.

ColtonBH
10-05-2017, 02:20 PM
Alright, I'll have to get that thermostat in quick, especially with winter coming up. That would explain why my cats work like garbage

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computiNATEor
10-05-2017, 02:30 PM
Alright, I'll have to get that thermostat in quick, especially with winter coming up. That would explain why my cats work like garbage

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Yeah, if you can smell fuel like an old muscle car, you need a thermostat soon to avoid damaging the cats.

ColtonBH
10-05-2017, 02:39 PM
Yeah, if you can smell fuel like an old muscle car, you need a thermostat soon to avoid damaging the cats.The heaters are gone already, they will eventually get cut and get a DUDMD tune so I can pass emissions. We just have obd2, no visual or sniffer up here.

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aazevedo
10-05-2017, 04:28 PM
Congratulations! I'm excited that a millennial knows what a Nikon is, AND appreciates a nice BMW, AND is actually willing to put some work (love) into it.

Happy for you! Keep us posted on the updates.

Good luck!

ColtonBH
10-24-2017, 02:42 AM
Haven't updated this in a while, oil change a thousand or so miles ago, I'm up to 188k miles (182 when I bought it). I think I'm set on things that need attending to, still a ways to go on the to-do list. Put my Breyton Flames on, 8.5in with 235/50R18 Michelin HX MXM4 in front, 9.5in with 245/50R18 Pirelli run flat something or other in the rear. Rear rubs once in a while on very tight turns, I need to roll the fenders. T-stat is in the mail, I need that in so the car actually warms up. Over the winter I'm going to start collecting intake manifold gasket parts. Anyway, here are some recent pictures.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4499/24042906898_a280bfca15_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/CCAbzy)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4491/37637865130_ed87802ed5_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZkVU29)

computiNATEor
10-24-2017, 03:06 AM
Looks great! I dig these wheels on the E38 better than the E39. Lots of rear camber there; I'd recommend correcting that as soon as you can.

ColtonBH
10-24-2017, 03:32 AM
Looks great! I dig these wheels on the E38 better than the E39. Lots of rear camber there; I'd recommend correcting that as soon as you can.Thanks man, I agree, especially on the 750, they go well since there's lots of chrome on the car anyways. I will probably leave the camber for this set of tires, I just have used tires I've had lying around on all corners since the wheels need to be refinished before I spend some cash on new, quality tires. I adjusted the toe and the camber isn't ridiculous, probably around -3-4*, so the wear shouldn't be too bad.

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sooch
10-24-2017, 09:16 AM
That first pic looks killer. Looks so much like an e34 there...

I'd love to find a 750 in my area to tool around in. Love the feel of these boats as a DD, much more comfortable than an M. Keep up the great work!

XAlt
10-24-2017, 12:39 PM
1 case in 1000 needs new intake manifold gaskets, every other is solved by reinzosil. The gasket prices are nothing more than a scummy money grab.

ColtonBH
10-24-2017, 03:38 PM
1 case in 1000 needs new intake manifold gaskets, every other is solved by renzosil. The gasket prices are nothing more than a scummy money grab.I'll have to do that instead. I have a couple other vac leaks I need to clean up first. I'm just afraid im going to break one of the very fragile and expensive injectors

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ColtonBH
10-24-2017, 03:39 PM
That first pic looks killer. Looks so much like an e34 there...

I'd love to find a 750 in my area to tool around in. Love the feel of these boats as a DD, much more comfortable than an M. Keep up the great work!Thank you man! Speaking of e34s, I need to find a 530i/540i to wrench on and have fun with. The e38 makes a great DD but I want something to make fast and fun

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ColtonBH
10-24-2017, 03:59 PM
I forgot to mention one of the things I like about Breyton wheels, they're very streetable. I work/school in the Waukesha/Milwaukee area, full of crappy roads, and I don't have to worry about bending or cracking a set of expensive forged wheels, I swear things thins are more durable than the stock cast wheels.

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