85 635csi Trouble

[EddieV]

Hey everyone,

I've been holding off posting for awhile, hoping I'd just keep reading around and troubleshooting and figure it out, but hasn't been fixed yet.

My father owned and babied his 6 since he got it around in '01/'02. He passed away in Oct. '12 and it sat until I had the courage to get back to it late last year. 88k miles. I one day parked it somewhere, came back out, started it, and it wouldn't start. Towed it somewhere and was told clogged cat and dead cam sensors. Got it running, but it ran like shit. Kept it there and told him to do whatever needed to be done, and after looking everything (I mean everything) over according to him, everything is at spec, but it still didn't idle or drive right.

Spark plugs, icv, dist. cap and rotor, cat, and wiring harness (he said there was a short) were all changed out. He said fuel pressure was spec (starting to doubt him). He upped the throttle to mask the low idle issues, but there's bogging and hesitation while driving. Especially if in gear and at less than 1k or if trying to accelerate quickly. Also, when I hit around 5k, the car acts as it has a limiter there and takes some more revving to get passed it. Once you do that, it'll go to redline, like something was stuck and it had to get it out.

Car died a few months ago, I figured out it was the obc relay and got a used one from ebay. Runs again, but still the same issues I described above. I tried to check speed and ref. sensors again, but resistance is in range between terminals 1 and 3.

Forgot to mention, car died once before the cam sensor replacement, and was told it was the icv by a different place, which is why that was replaced.

I'm desperate and any help would be greatly appreciated.

[bkats]

Fuel: Fuel pump, FPR, fuel filter, bad gas

Spark: Ignition coil, plug wires (unless that's what you meant by harness)

Air: Vacuum leak (it'd have to be a big one), AFM

Maybe an ECU thing. Personally, since the car has had long stints of sitting, I would go through the fuel system first. A new tank of gas and a new fuel filter is as cheap as it gets, to start.

[EddieV]

Fuel: Fuel pump, FPR, fuel filter, bad gas

Spark: Ignition coil, plug wires (unless that's what you meant by harness)

Air: Vacuum leak (it'd have to be a big one), AFM

Maybe an ECU thing. Personally, since the car has had long stints of sitting, I would go through the fuel system first. A new tank of gas and a new fuel filter is as cheap as it gets, to start.
Appreciate the response. Been driving it on and off for a year, always use Top Tier gas. FPR (3 bar) and AFM have been replaced, vacuum lines don't look old. Replaced AFM intake boot last year as it had a leak at the bottom. Me and the mechanic went over the ECU as that was his guess after a week of working on it, but he said he tried another and no change.

Been through the diagnostics on the hiperformance motronic page, plug wires look good, and they were tested before. Was told by two bimmer places that the filter was fine.

I forgot to mention it has a long crank to start and it revs its way up to the starting idle; it doesn't explode there as it should. If I were to run it for a bit, shut it down, and start it back up, it grinds. I'll keep trying and it'll explode to idle as it should. The long crank happens regardless of temp though.

[rlkrlk]

... and coolant temp sensor. Maybe.

Good luck,

Ray

[bkats]

Appreciate the response. Been driving it on and off for a year, always use Top Tier gas. FPR (3 bar) and AFM have been replaced, vacuum lines don't look old. Replaced AFM intake boot last year as it had a leak at the bottom. Me and the mechanic went over the ECU as that was his guess after a week of working on it, but he said he tried another and no change.

Been through the diagnostics on the hiperformance motronic page, plug wires look good, and they were tested before. Was told by two bimmer places that the filter was fine.

I forgot to mention it has a long crank to start and it revs its way up to the starting idle; it doesn't explode there as it should. If I were to run it for a bit, shut it down, and start it back up, it grinds. I'll keep trying and it'll explode to idle as it should. The long crank happens regardless of temp though.

^^^ very well could be the temp sensor. A long crank like that seems like a fuel issue. You may have a leaky injector, apparently not the ICV. It sounds like your rail is empty after sitting. Can you do a leak-down test on the fuel pressure after shutdown?

[RSheiman]

OK I will admit this, I reversed the crankshaft sensors once, the car ran absolutely horribly (obviously). If by cam sensor, you meant crank sensor, just make sure you did not reverse them. They look exactly the same.

[DesktopDave]

I'd guess fuel pressure too. I learned how to, uh, "rebuild" the injectors on an old 633CSi and it ran incredibly well after that. I didn't test them or anything. Just a dip in my dental surplus ultrasonic bath, new o-rings & basket filters.

Might be a typo, but I thought the critical measurement on the crank & ref sensors was 1KOhm or so between pins 1&2? 1&3 are important too, but as long as that's a good high resistance you should be OK. Verify that the flywheel pin is still there too.

I'm not sure what you meant by "grinding on a restart." Like the starter is going bad? The newer gear-reduction starters are really nice.

If he switched out the wiring harness, be sure it's securely socketed at the fuse box and that all the plugs go to the right places. The ref & speed sensor plugs are critical. If the DME coolant sensor plug (two pin, blue connector) was accidentally swapped onto the gauge coolant sender (one pin, IIRC black connector) at the coolant pipe neck, I'd bet it'd run poorly.

[EddieV]

... and coolant temp sensor. Maybe.

Good luck,

Ray


^^^ very well could be the temp sensor. A long crank like that seems like a fuel issue. You may have a leaky injector, apparently not the ICV. It sounds like your rail is empty after sitting. Can you do a leak-down test on the fuel pressure after shutdown?
I may glanced over the CTS once before, but I'll give a thorough look today. If it was leaky, wouldn't warm starts be more of the issue vs cold? I'll see when I can go rent a pressure kit to test. Just don't want to splice into a fuel line, but can't you test around the fuel filter somehow?

OK I will admit this, I reversed the crankshaft sensors once, the car ran absolutely horribly (obviously). If by cam sensor, you meant crank sensor, just make sure you did not reverse them. They look exactly the same.


I'd guess fuel pressure too. I learned how to, uh, "rebuild" the injectors on an old 633CSi and it ran incredibly well after that. I didn't test them or anything. Just a dip in my dental surplus ultrasonic bath, new o-rings & basket filters.

Might be a typo, but I thought the critical measurement on the crank & ref sensors was 1KOhm or so between pins 1&2? 1&3 are important too, but as long as that's a good high resistance you should be OK. Verify that the flywheel pin is still there too.

I'm not sure what you meant by "grinding on a restart." Like the starter is going bad? The newer gear-reduction starters are really nice.

If he switched out the wiring harness, be sure it's securely socketed at the fuse box and that all the plugs go to the right places. The ref & speed sensor plugs are critical. If the DME coolant sensor plug (two pin, blue connector) was accidentally swapped onto the gauge coolant sender (one pin, IIRC black connector) at the coolant pipe neck, I'd bet it'd run poorly.
I've been wanting to do something like that, and you made it sound stupid simple and painless. Any steps you found anywhere?

OK so really good catch because this may be important. I made two typos. I did mean the crank sensors and they were around 1k at terminals 1 and 2, but 1 and 3 and 2 and 3 were actually O.L. Apparently that's not supposed to be the case. You guys have readings on yours? Also, I can't tell which sensor is which. I tried looking. Up the numbers on them, but I've searched and found nothing. I can't even tell what brand they are. I found a UR logo on them, but I've found nothing.

Flywheel pin?

Yup, the starter, but only when warm.

K I'll check all that as well.

[DesktopDave]

I may glanced over the CTS once before, but I'll give a thorough look today. If it was leaky, wouldn't warm starts be more of the issue vs cold? I'll see when I can go rent a pressure kit to test. Just don't want to splice into a fuel line, but can't you test around the fuel filter somehow?



I've been wanting to do something like that, and you made it sound stupid simple and painless. Any steps you found anywhere?

OK so really good catch because this may be important. I made two typos. I did mean the crank sensors and they were around 1k at terminals 1 and 2, but 1 and 3 and 2 and 3 were actually O.L. Apparently that's not supposed to be the case. You guys have readings on yours? Also, I can't tell which sensor is which. I tried looking. Up the numbers on them, but I've searched and found nothing. I can't even tell what brand they are. I found a UR logo on them, but I've found nothing.

Flywheel pin?

Yup, the starter, but only when warm.

K I'll check all that as well.

I'd honestly send the injectors out for a refurb, it's pretty cheap. I figured I'd save a little money since my old E24 was pretty rough and it used pretty rare low-impedance injectors. It was fun & entertaining, and I already had the ultrasonic tank to clean bike carbs. I started here (https://www.rjnunnally.com/how-to-rebuild-fuel-injectors/) and used a kit like this from eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Injector-Repair-Service-Kit-Seals-Filters-Pintle-Caps-CSKBO18-/321276578769). If you want the TL;DR version I can track it down & post it on my blog. I was planning on an eventual upgrade to the updated 'gen III'/disk-type/plastic body injectors - they have 4-hole injectors can improve things a little, especially fuel mileage. I was planning on running slightly larger 22# capacity injectors on my current E24 project, but you have to be careful since EV1 injectors have several different formats & body lengths.

I don't see why you couldn't pressure test at the fuel filter output - it's just more convenient. Pressure should be the same pressure anywhere upstream of the FPR, right? You probably couldn't do an accurate flow test unless you did it at the rail.

The speed & ref sensor pins should be really high resistance except for that 1Kohm between 1&2. Open circuit/infinite shouldn't cause a problem since pin 3 is the EMF grounding jacket. IIRC it's a "floating" ground, only shared with the DME. The "proper" reading can also vary depending on your meter, some read out differently at very high resistances.

IIRC the speed sensor is located above & forward, closer to the motor. The position sensor is lower & slightly further back. I've seen some OEM parts that had little plastic indicators in gray or black at each end but otherwise they're totally the same. Carefully follow the wires to hook it up correctly if the two are identical. They're usually Bosch branded with their little armature symbol. I'm not sure about UR...Uro parts?

There's a step machined into the flex/flywheel, it has a small square protrusion for the position sensor so the DME can determine TDC. It's only held on by a roll pin and can be damaged by debris (I'd guess trapped against the sensor head when it's spinning). The speed sensor counts the teeth on the flywheel - it can't determine TDC at all.

[EddieV]

I'd honestly send the injectors out for a refurb, it's pretty cheap. I figured I'd save a little money since my old E24 was pretty rough and it used pretty rare low-impedance injectors. It was fun & entertaining, and I already had the ultrasonic tank to clean bike carbs. I started here (https://www.rjnunnally.com/how-to-rebuild-fuel-injectors/) and used a kit like this from eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Injector-Repair-Service-Kit-Seals-Filters-Pintle-Caps-CSKBO18-/321276578769). If you want the TL;DR version I can track it down & post it on my blog. I was planning on an eventual upgrade to the updated 'gen III'/disk-type/plastic body injectors - they have 4-hole injectors can improve things a little, especially fuel mileage. I was planning on running slightly larger 22# capacity injectors on my current E24 project, but you have to be careful since EV1 injectors have several different formats & body lengths.

I don't see why you couldn't pressure test at the fuel filter output - it's just more convenient. Pressure should be the same pressure anywhere upstream of the FPR, right? You probably couldn't do an accurate flow test unless you did it at the rail.

The speed & ref sensor pins should be really high resistance except for that 1Kohm between 1&2. Open circuit/infinite shouldn't cause a problem since pin 3 is the EMF grounding jacket. IIRC it's a "floating" ground, only shared with the DME. The "proper" reading can also vary depending on your meter, some read out differently at very high resistances.

IIRC the speed sensor is located above & forward, closer to the motor. The position sensor is lower & slightly further back. I've seen some OEM parts that had little plastic indicators in gray or black at each end but otherwise they're totally the same. Carefully follow the wires to hook it up correctly if the two are identical. They're usually Bosch branded with their little armature symbol. I'm not sure about UR...Uro parts?

There's a step machined into the flex/flywheel, it has a small square protrusion for the position sensor so the DME can determine TDC. It's only held on by a roll pin and can be damaged by debris (I'd guess trapped against the sensor head when it's spinning). The speed sensor counts the teeth on the flywheel - it can't determine TDC at all.

Ah ok. All that makes sense.

Great call! It was Uro. I still can't find the parts online though to even verify they're correct. On one sensor, 0454 is printed, and 2813 on the other.

Coolant sensor seems to be in range.

Edit: still unable to find crank sensors for any e24 (or similar) made by Uro. Could that be a problem?

[mauryc]

I concur with sending the injectors off. Not likely your problem, but have it done and check that off your list. I bought a used set off eBay for next to nothing and sent them in so my car wasn't down. Takes no time to replace

[EddieV]

I concur with sending the injectors off. Not likely your problem, but have it done and check that off your list. I bought a used set off eBay for next to nothing and sent them in so my car wasn't down. Takes no time to replace
Anyone you guys can recommend?


OK so I've been talking to Uro parts and they say it's impossible that these sensors are theirs because they don't make anything for our cars. So that's interesting... It's definitely their logo though. Confused on this one.

So I may get Bosch ones on Amazon and see if there's an improvement. I'll test the fuel pressure first though.

[tschultz]

I use MEPEH he is on ebay and has his own site too. He will rebuild or sell new/rebuilt.

[mauryc]

cruzin performance for injector cleaning. I've had good results with them

[Technician117]

I use MEPEH he is on ebay and has his own site too. He will rebuild or sell new/rebuilt.

+1 for MEPEH. I used him for cleaning a spare set of injectors for my M5 that I then swapped out. Zero issues, fast turn around.

[EddieV]

Question: for the coolant temp sensor, if the resistance moves up and down with the warming and cooling of the engine, it's good, right? Reason I ask is because I have no idea what the coolant temp is at any time, so I can only guess that the resistance values are in range

[rlkrlk]

http://www.bigcoupe.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=18335

[EddieV]

http://www.bigcoupe.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=18335
That didn't help, unfortunately.

[rlkrlk]

Oh? It does give an indication of range and direction...

Cheers,

Ray

[EddieV]

Oh? It does give an indication of range and direction...

Cheers,

Ray
Ah. I see what you were pointing me to. Yea I was just verifying. Thank you. The CTS is fine then.

I'm just waiting for the fuel tank to get low so I can rent a fuel pressure test kit to test the fuel pressure, in-tank pump, and do a leak-down test to see if there injectors are leaking as was previously suggested.

Speaking of MEPEH, I'm waiting for him to get the later M30/M42 injectors to put those in.

[EddieV]

Anyone try the Gen/Design III Ford injectors on an M30 that used 0280150203? P/N 0280155710

I've read around, and have heard mixed things. It should work fine, ust wanted to verify before I order them from MEPEH. I figured might as well get those for the price instead of having these rebuilt. I've seen rich running, perfectly fine, or high idle from some people using them.

[RSheiman]

Can you drive this thing at all??? I always carry a spare ECU (ending in 059), we can give it a shot. Also have the set up to test fuel pressure. I'm probably just a few miles from you. Rob

[EddieV]

Can you drive this thing at all??? I always carry a spare ECU (ending in 059), we can give it a shot. Also have the set up to test fuel pressure. I'm probably just a few miles from you. Rob

Awe man, that'd be awesome, but I'm actually in South Florida right now, unfortunately/fortunately lol

But yup, I can drive it, just drives rough

[RSheiman]

Just send me a PM if and when.

[EddieV]

Just send me a PM if and when.
For sure!


Bought the 0280155700/710 injectors from MEPEH today. Once I get the shipment in, I'll install and update.

BTW, anyone have any ideas as to why neither of my headrests go down? Motor works, but it sounds like they're off the track.

[RSheiman]

Try this, courtesy of Taylor Marshall. http://members.cruzio.com/~glennco/s_headrest_11.htm (http://members.cruzio.com/%7Eglennco/s_headrest_11.htm). It actually works, I just did it a month ago.

[DesktopDave]

+1 on the headrest repair. It's the same in many other BMWs, worked for me on an E34.

As for the continuing rough running troubles, I'm thinking of quick & cheap tests. Did you ever check out the AFM or plug wire resistance? I had a bad coil lead once that caused me a lot of had scratching. It tested OK but there was some internal damage. When I gave it a little wiggle, resistance jumped all over the place. IIRC 3Kohm for the coil wire, 6Kohm for the rest of the plug wires.

[slofut]

If you replace those injectors, and other bits in the fuel path without cleaning out that fuel tank first (not just draining and refilling), it'll be for nothing. Just sayin' ...

[EddieV]

Try this, courtesy of Taylor Marshall. http://members.cruzio.com/~glennco/s_headrest_11.htm (http://members.cruzio.com/%7Eglennco/s_headrest_11.htm). It actually works, I just did it a month ago.
Thanks!! I'll give this a shot ASAP.

+1 on the headrest repair. It's the same in many other BMWs, worked for me on an E34.

As for the continuing rough running troubles, I'm thinking of quick & cheap tests. Did you ever check out the AFM or plug wire resistance? I had a bad coil lead once that caused me a lot of had scratching. It tested OK but there was some internal damage. When I gave it a little wiggle, resistance jumped all over the place. IIRC 3Kohm for the coil wire, 6Kohm for the rest of the plug wires.
Yup! Everything checked out. I'll check the plug wires again just to be sure though.

If you replace those injectors, and other bits in the fuel path without cleaning out that fuel tank first (not just draining and refilling), it'll be for nothing. Just sayin' ...
It's been driven about 4-5k since the injectors started giving troubles. Just poured a bottle of seafoam in there just in-case. I'm also replacing the filter Friday or next week. I had opened up the tank and didn't see anything, but about half a tank was in there. Do you think it's necessary at this point for anything else to be done? Suggestions?

[RSheiman]

You replaced the AFM but with what, a used unit or was it rebuilt?

Someone here posted about a loose wire at the fuse box which I think went to the fuel pump relay. Open the box, take a peek from below for worn or melted connections.

I re-read and saw you tried another DME with no change.

The end of the fuel road is the rail and injectors. I would make sure your pressure is ok before you put in the new injectors.

There's that small vacuum line that runs underneath the intake manifold, joined to a very small rigid plastic tube that then runs along the brake bomb, very easy to overlook it. Make sure it is intact.

Taylor M had an issue with a failing wire at the AFM connection so move it around during idle to see if anything changes.

I had similar issues with my 635 and my M6...one was a crappy AFM which did not respond to realignment of the arm on the carbon tract, the other was the cap with small microfractures you could see only when magnified. You cap was changed or just inspected?

Pull a plug and see if you are running lean or rich.

You looked in the tank...trust you looked at the in tank pump then, incl the screen to make sure it's ok.

[EddieV]

You replaced the AFM but with what, a used unit or was it rebuilt?

Someone here posted about a loose wire at the fuse box which I think went to the fuel pump relay. Open the box, take a peek from below for worn or melted connections.

I re-read and saw you tried another DME with no change.

The end of the fuel road is the rail and injectors. I would make sure your pressure is ok before you put in the new injectors.

There's that small vacuum line that runs underneath the intake manifold, joined to a very small rigid plastic tube that then runs along the brake bomb, very easy to overlook it. Make sure it is intact.

Taylor M had an issue with a failing wire at the AFM connection so move it around during idle to see if anything changes.

I had similar issues with my 635 and my M6...one was a crappy AFM which did not respond to realignment of the arm on the carbon tract, the other was the cap with small microfractures you could see only when magnified. You cap was changed or just inspected?

Pull a plug and see if you are running lean or rich.

You looked in the tank...trust you looked at the in tank pump then, incl the screen to make sure it's ok.

Rebuilt. Good ideas. I'll check everything when I can.

Quick thing I figured out and forgot to mention; when I start the car, it smells like fuel (injector o-rings?), and I have to hold WOT to start the car quicker, or else it'll crank for a few more seconds before it fires and slowly creeps up to idle RPMs NB before it steadies between 550/600- 800. So I figured leaky injectors.

Also, at first start of the day, throttle after shifting is jumpy instead of smooth as when warm. And when driving at a steady RPM, it somewhat jumps and jolts as if it's not getting enough gas/air.

WOT isn't much different from 30-40%, but it's not halting at 5k RPMs like it used to. So it's gotten better the more I've used it heavily.

[DesktopDave]

Hmmm. That is a good clue. Have you checked the cold start injector for a vac leak or a slight fuel line leak? Tricky little beastie to get at. It's in the center of the intake manifold plenum, between the manifold & block, under the throttle body mounting flange. It injects a spray of fuel into the central plenum on cold starts. Mine was sealed with an o-ring that was more or less a memory.

[EddieV]

Hmmm. That is a good clue. Have you checked the cold start injector for a vac leak or a slight fuel line leak? Tricky little beastie to get at. It's in the center of the intake manifold plenum, between the manifold & block, under the throttle body mounting flange. It injects a spray of fuel into the central plenum on cold starts. Mine was sealed with an o-ring that was more or less a memory.
Did a simple eye test, and everything seemed fine. I might have to pull it and replace the o ring and maybe do a homemade injector cleaning?


The cap and rotor were replaced. Thats what that plastic tubing is! Always wondered. Everything looks good there. Before I replaced the plugs a month or two ago, this is what they looked like. Oh, and the AFM wire seems fine. Nothing went awry while wiggling.

https://imgur.com/gallery/RbszR
Btw, what is that connection in the last image? I've plugged it in since, but can't tell.

Forgot to add, starter hasnt really grinded on warm starts since starting from position 2. If it does, it does it for a quarter of a second, not even. If I were to go from 0 to 3, chances are it would grind.

[EddieV]

Another update; just drove it and noticed yesterday and today, it's been difficult to shift. Looked at the driveway and saw fluid. Clutch slave cylinder is bad now I'm guessing. It's approaching 92k miles.

[RSheiman]

Clutch slave often dies when there is a sudden drop in outside temp, clutch hits the floor, poor brakes, brake fluid is low. The slave port on the reservoir is a few cm from the bottom so when the slave dies, fluid drops only to the level of the port and you still have some brakes. I have never had to change one in warm weather, tho I wish.

[EddieV]

Clutch slave often dies when there is a sudden drop in outside temp, clutch hits the floor, poor brakes, brake fluid is low. The slave port on the reservoir is a few cm from the bottom so when the slave dies, fluid drops only to the level of the port and you still have some brakes. I have never had to change one in warm weather, tho I wish.

Interesting. Clutch have hit the floor yet, reservoir looks ok, but definitely fluid in the floor and difficult shifting. Ha definitely lucky I have that warm weather right now! I have a clutch slave I needed to use on my e30, but I'll use it on this instead tomorrow or Sunday. It looks pretty straight forward. What size flare nut wrench is needed?

Let me know what you think of the pics I posted above.

[DesktopDave]

Did a simple eye test, and everything seemed fine. I might have to pull it and replace the o ring and maybe do a homemade injector cleaning?


The cap and rotor were replaced. Thats what that plastic tubing is! Always wondered. Everything looks good there. Before I replaced the plugs a month or two ago, this is what they looked like. Oh, and the AFM wire seems fine. Nothing went awry while wiggling.

https://imgur.com/gallery/RbszR
Btw, what is that connection in the last image? I've plugged it in since, but can't tell.

Forgot to add, starter hasnt really grinded on warm starts since starting from position 2. If it does, it does it for a quarter of a second, not even. If I were to go from 0 to 3, chances are it would grind.

Not a bad idea to clean the cold-start valve, but it's pretty difficult to get at. Last time I did it, I pulled the intake and replaced all the gaskets & hoses. The CSV isn't the same as the other injectors, more like a solenoid sprayer jet.

That last image is the sender wire for the low oil pressure light. It's at the farthest point in the oil galleries from the oil pump.

[RSheiman]

Plugs looked pretty good. I don't recall flare nut size but BMW is quite fond of 13mm.

[EddieV]

Not a bad idea to clean the cold-start valve, but it's pretty difficult to get at. Last time I did it, I pulled the intake and replaced all the gaskets & hoses. The CSV isn't the same as the other injectors, more like a solenoid sprayer jet.

That last image is the sender wire for the low oil pressure light. It's at the farthest point in the oil galleries from the oil pump.

Well damn. That'll have to be a project down the road then.

Ah thanks



Plugs looked pretty good. I don't recall flare nut size but BMW is quite fond of 13mm.

That's what I was thinking too

[EddieV]

Any tips on a block drain plug that won't budge? I can't really seem to get any leverage. The breaker bar doesn't have room to move either. Seems impossible.

[EddieV]

About to tackle the slave cylinder job, but can't find a moly based grease here as per Bentley. Is there anything else that would work just as well? Maybe any high temp wheel bearing grease?

[EddieV]

Since I haven't gotten to a fuel pressure gauge yet, I figured I'd jump the fuel relay to see if it's the pressure not being high enough at cold starts. Same issue.

Something interesting; took off the AFM and got a massive whiff of fuel from the boot, and this was before I started it in the morning. CSV?

Checked the slave. It's slightly leaking, but nothing major. It is pretty damn rusted though. Oddly, I'm missing the tranny cover I had last year...it couldn't have fallen off. Maybe a mechanic forgot it?

Anyway, I'll change the slave when I get back under to try the block drain plug again. It seems pretty seized, but got a u-joint to try from the top instead of below.

Green coolant is in there now, but I've got the Zerex to replace it.

[RSheiman]

I did the drain plug long ago so not sure about room but in situations like this, if I can, I'll use my low profile jack and angle my socket or box wrench and use the jack to push against it. I assume PB Blaster has been used for a few days??

[EddieV]

I did the drain plug long ago so not sure about room but in situations like this, if I can, I'll use my low profile jack and angle my socket or box wrench and use the jack to push against it. I assume PB Blaster has been used for a few days??
That's genius! Mine's not a low profile, but I'll see what I can do. I kept spraying it with PB over the span of several hours, but couldn't get it loose. I'll keep trying the PB. I'll spray it tonight and every night until I have time to get it done. By that point it'll hopefully be loose