E36 M3 Won't Start

[wahwill]

My 97 E36 M3 with 188K miles won't start. The last few times I started the car, I noticed the cranks got slower and slower but it I didn't think much of it.

I cleaned the battery terminals and all lights on the dash, HVAC, OBC light up but when I turn the ignition, there's no crank at all. The battery is fairly new as well. Are there things I could check for before I resort to changing the starter? Starter replacement on this car looks to be a PITA... :(

[AJLM34A]

If the cranks got slower and slower, your battery might not be getting charged enough, or there is a current draw. Get the battery and charging system tested first.

[boarder2k7]

Just check the battery voltage, if low, charge it and see if it starts normally.

If the battery is fairly new it is possible that the alternator is getting weak. That wouldn't be too bad as they're much easier to change!

[AlpineM345]

You could jump start your car to see if it is your battery.

[wahwill]

I just tried jump starting it and it doesn't work. Not a single crank or sound. Lights on dash, OBC, headlights work though.

[AlpineM345]

Sounds like starter. Try to whack the starter and see if it cranks.

[MauiM3Mania]

Don't be throwing parts at the car based on guesses. You might hit the target but you might spend money on things you didn't need.

a) Buy or borrow a digital multi-meter (DMM). A decent one will last you years and save you headaches.

b) To check the car's battery, disconnect the battery's cables from the car and charge it overnight. Next day, disconnect the charger and wait at least 30 minutes and then check the voltage of the battery with the DMM. It should be 12.7v. If it is, battery is good. If it less, it is not holding a charge. Even though 12.0 volts sounds close to 12.7, it really indicates that the battery is 95% discharged. So, if much less than 12.7, the battery is bad and needs replacement. Is it old or was the alternator not keeping it charged causing it to die?

c) Checking the alternator. Use the DMM at the battery while the car idles. You should see around 13.5v. Hold the engine at 2500 rpm and you should see about 14v. The 2500rpm reading should drop very little if you load the system by switching on the headlamps and the a/c with the blower on high. If you don’t see those voltages the alternator isn’t working correctly.

If both units check out, then start looking at wiring, starter, etc.

[pbonsalb]

I just tried jump starting it and it doesn't work. Not a single crank or sound. Lights on dash, OBC, headlights work though.

Sometimes you have to wait about 10 minutes with cables connected before cranking. But if you tried that, Id say the starter is bad.

[wahwill]

I brought the battery to Autozone to get it tested. They said it was a little low on juice and they charged it for me for about an hour. I also borrowed a multimeter and tested the battery after getting it back from autozone and it read 12.1V. Is this still a bit low?

Anyway, I put the battery back in my car, waited 10min and gave it a try and still, no life whatsoever. Headlights, dash lights, OBC works though. Should I try a brand new battery? The current one I have is 3 year old interstate (rated for 6 years).

[pbonsalb]

12.1 is bad. 12.6 is good.

- - - Updated - - -

Try jumpering it for 10 minutes with other car running before trying to crank. If it does not crank then, Id suspect the starter. An E36 Interstate should last more than 3 years.

[wahwill]

Tried a brand new battery and it still doesn't start. I guess it's the worst case scenario, the starter.

- - - Updated - - -

Did some research and found that some other people with similar issues had success by bypassing the EWSII system.

Does it make sense that this is due to EWS considering the fact that the last couple of times I started the car, I noticed the cranks slowing down?

[pbonsalb]

If ews is interfering, you will not have the cel illuminated with key in position 2 but engine off. If cel is lit, ews is not your issue.

If clutch switch is not working, I dont think engine will crank. You could check the switch, but its failure does not match up with your noticing slow cranking before the no cranking.

[wahwill]

CEL is illuminated with key in position 2.


If ews is interfering, you will not have the cel illuminated with key in position 2 but engine off. If cel is lit, ews is not your issue.

If clutch switch is not working, I dont think engine will crank. You could check the switch, but its failure does not match up with your noticing slow cranking before the no cranking.

[m3boost]

check for chassis ground.

[Crustashio]

Find a few friends and try to do a push start? That's how I've always narrowed down bad starters.

[Cy101]

PROBLEM SOLVED - my E36 M3 had same issue. It always seem to not want to start, like a weak battery. The battery light on the dash comes on when I crank, and it felt very weak to crank. Battery is new and starter Replaced with brand new but issue continues. Especially when it’s hot, I turned the key to on position, and I had to hold it for like 3 seconds before it starts cranking slowly crank, like a bad starter.

The problem is because of a slowly dying EWS, that is causing the car to have a hard time to turn over, causing the battery light to come on when it’s cranking like a weak battery. What you need to do is remove the glove box and get to the EWS module. Then jump or connect the two big wires together. It’s pin 1 & 3. The car fires right up normally and no more weak battery cranking.