540i, Dropped transmission and found this MESS ( High Quality Photos! )

[Firefighter3244]

UPDATE ON PAGE 2! WITH MORE PHOTOS! Also, got questions and need help!
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We all love HQ photos! :P

Hey guys, Bought this 540i as a project. Last owner said valley pan was leaking, I confirmed was leaking from tranny weep hole.

Brought it home, Did VP job with all associated gaskets.
Valley Pan/Gasket
Water tube o-rings, even 1 new water tube
Intake mani gaskets, Intake mani front and rear cover gaskets
Intake mani tube, throttle body gasket, Rear Water Manifold Gaskets
and more and more and more. I did it, and I did it right.

Still leaks coolant. Dang... Must be the Rear Coolant plate on the back of the block then.
So, Out comes the transmission.

So, I pulled the transmission and I'm pulling the Clutch/Flywheel today to get to the actual mess... So this is part 1, stay tuned for part 2.

So I found from the leak the bell housing is a gross mess. Obviously I'll clean it up best as possible.
Should I be concerned from the surface rust on the tranny shaft, or on the throw out lever and stuff?
Also, the clutch has surface rust. It's suppose to be a new clutch. less than a thousand miles on it. But it had all that water/coolant leaking
Clutch engages and grabs great and shifts great... So there are no actual issues with it working. But, while I have it all what all do I need to do.

I have the Coolant plate gasket and a new rear main seal and rear gasket for the back of the block that has to come off when doing the rear main seal.
Do I need to get a new throw out bearing, or anything else???

The previous owner did a complete hack job to this car. He said he put new clutch and flywheel, among other things. He did, but used crapm gasket maker, cheapest bolts/nuts etc...

Photos of where I'm currently at/ I'll have more tonight when I remove the clutch and flywheel.


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FULL SIZE OF CLUTCH

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7312/26523951220_a045a939ba_o.jpg

From what I can see is behind the flywheel, it's a total gross mess.
Looks like he used home silicone to seal the coolant plate back up on the back of the block! :mad
We'll know tonight when I get it off!

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7353/26182138574_aaf3e6d72c_c.jpg




PART 2 Coming tonight!

[dannyzabolotny]

Yikes! This is why I'm always wary of buying a car where the owner claims to have changed the clutch, because I imagine it'll be a hack job like this. I'd almost rather buy a leaky car with a bad clutch and fix it myself, since it seems like nobody does the clutch job correctly.

This reminds me of a 2001 540i/6 that's on sale locally, it's a complete piece of crap and the owner claims to have changed the clutch. When I asked him if he changed the flywheel, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, rear main seal, etc, he said that he literally only did the clutch with whatever he could find for less than $300. Yikes.

[geargrinder]

Dont worry about the surface rust, no big deal. I mean you can clean it up but its not a problem on the clutch arm or the input shaft. Doesnt look so bad anyway, i am sure its from water dripping in there as you say. Unfort the formerly new clutch might be borked. New clutch will come with a new throwout bearing. Wonder about the flywheel... Hopefully salvageable.

[DoriDori]

Dont worry about the surface rust, no big deal. I mean you can clean it up but its not a problem on the clutch arm or the input shaft. Doesnt look so bad anyway, i am sure its from water dripping in there as you say. Unfort the formerly new clutch might be borked. New clutch will come with a new throwout bearing. Wonder about the flywheel... Hopefully salvageable.

Could the owner get the flywheel resurfaced? Or does dual mass FWs require replacing?

[geargrinder]

They can be done although people will say no. If it was my car it would depend on if that FW was replaced w clutch and therefore the dual mass guts are prob very solid, or, if it was the OEM FW. If the PO just put that FW in then worth looking into cleaning it up, otherwise good excuse to toss it and start fresh. If you are lucky the flywheel is fine. If its just some light surface rust then polish it up and put it back in.

[Firefighter3244]

Well... Previous Owner needs more than a kick. Dropped the clutch and flywheel and found
3 of the 17 bolts holding the coolant plate on the back of the block. That means 14 were missing!
He pumped as much silicone around it as he possibly could hoping it wouldn't leak.
He claims he put a new clutch in and flywheel. Not sure, both are stamped "LUK"

There are 3 broken bolts where they were missing and the rest just were empty.

I've got some work ahead of me... Pictures and video to come.

- - - Updated - - -

Photos - If too large please let me know!

Clutch and Flywheel both say LUK.
OEM supplier? Could be old, new, not sure.... Is the material on the clutch indicate it's new or old?

Pulled the clutch off, which had 1 torx bolt and the rest standard... Again mix/match crap.


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Back of the flywheel pulled off

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Alright, Here we go. The MESS


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14 of 17 bolts missing for rear coolant plate!!

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Really simple clean up. I just sprayed and wiped. I'll break out the wire/bristle brushes and spend a couple hours on it thursday to really clean it up.

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Considering bushings and an E60, that makes it short throw right?

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7782/26533677080_666535a4a1_c.jpg



So yeah.... Pretty crazy. But I guess at least i'm fixing it... I have video of it as well, also me cleaning it off.

- - - Updated - - -

SO heres what I gotta figure out.

-Rear coolant plate Bolts
Type, Size and thread info so I can buy a rethread kit and a tap/screw/pull to get those broken ones out
-Clutch bolts
-Rear Main seal and seal for the cover surrounding the rear main seal
-Clutch and flywheel, replace? Clean up and then make a decision?
-Transmission input shaft seal replace?
-Replace any bushings for the shifter while it's out? E60 shifter for oem short throw?

and some more stuff

[gmak]

Some people should not be allowed to own wrenches - they should have to do 'security checks' like for guns. This is like seeing those puppy farms with mistreated dogs. Good on you for the hard work to nurse it back to health. :thumbup:

[E39540V8]

You Sir, are exactly what that car needed, just unbelievable. All that effort to get the gearbox off and then do that.

E39540v8

[joekitch]

e60 short shift kit is what you want
if you can put up with ECS, this is a decent kit
https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2581003/?gclid=CjwKEAjwu6a5BRC53sW0w9677RcSJABoFn4s2X1z3GR MShh-tPxTVwbWZ2kUWXkn8d5NHb-D_1T2GBoCZDLw_wcB

[geargrinder]

UNBELEEBABLE. Holy crap.

Yes that was very obviously a brand new Luk FW and Clutch set just put in.
Which are / were perfectly fine OEM grade parts for these, should have been not a problem.

Given that the FW is expensive, and doesn't have too much that can go wrong, I would salvage it.
Honestly the clutch surface doesn't look worn at all, I think you might be able to just wire brush / steel wool / etc. that thing and clean it up.
If you really want to do it right you could have it lightly media-blasted to get that rust off.
If you wanted to go above and beyond, find a place that does DM flywheels (requires a DM attachment to their grinding setup but not a big deal) but honestly the surface is barely worn.

Re: the clutch? The disk is probably fine given it has nothing to go wrong but personally I'd be suspect about the amount of rust in the pressure plate. And given that the whole thing comes as a kit I'd toss it in a box and just get a whole new setup. You coudl maybe save the clutch disk just in case as a spare or whatever.

I have a used like-new M5 clutch (few thousand miles) that I'd let go for a song if you want it. PM me if interested. It'd drop right in there. Pedal feel isn't notably different, but has a bit more holding power.

- - - Updated - - -

Oh and by the way unless you go new clutch out of the box, research SAC clutch reset procedure. A used clutch has to have the self-adjusting bit re-set in order to whack them back in and have them work properly.

[Only1Balto]

It looks a lot better then it did- great job. When I did my clutch I went ahead and replaced the DM flywheel since it had 230k on it and it has mechanical parts in it. I hate your PO.

[auaq]

Let's JB weld and rtv everything, Yo!

:astromile

[gmak]

Let's JB weld and rtv everything, Yo!

:astromile

AIn't it the 'murican way to include duct tape?

[TUDM]

Your user name should be BRAVEHEART! :ninja

[MattyL]

Wow, what a joke the previous owner was. You're doing good work, keep at it! Let us know at the end if you encountered any "gotchas" while doing the clutch job, as a whole.

[vinyldude]

Just wow. It must be incredibly gratifying to first of all find a logical reason to the problems and then be able to pull it apart and fix it better than even any so called professional mechanic would have done it.

I guess I have a related question if anyone knows the answer. How easy is it to replace the transmission input shaft seal? Can it be done without taking the whole 420g apart?

[geargrinder]

fix it better than even any so called professional mechanic would have done it.

Well. I'm not sure anything is getting "fixed better than a pro mechanic". Not sure why we're taking shots at pro techs at this point. A hack is a hack. Plenty of crap pro techs and great pro techs, just like amateurs.


I guess I have a related question if anyone knows the answer. How easy is it to replace the transmission input shaft seal? Can it be done without taking the whole 420g apart?

Absolutely done w/o disassembly.

Can be fussy but not more or less than any tricky seal drive situation. BMW has some special seal driver but we didn't use it, used some generic tool I think. Last time we did mine my buddy pushed the seal in too far and we had to do it again, but just the usual tricky seal-drive situation, nothing unique about it. Gotta be careful to push it in square, not drive it in too far, etc.

http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/3_series_e46/m3_s54_coupe/2_repair_instructions/23__manual_transmission_(mech)/12__bearing_in_housing_sealing_ring/3_ra__replacing_radial_seal_on_input_shaft_(s6s_42 0g)/page_1075/

[vinyldude]

Well. I'm not sure anything is getting "fixed better than a pro mechanic". Not sure why we're taking shots at pro techs at this point. A hack is a hack. Plenty of crap pro techs and great pro techs, just like amateurs.
That wasn't really meant to be a jab at pro mechanics, but just a realization that time is money for them. Quite often in a messy situation like that when the fix is not just throwing parts to a parts washer, the overall cleanup may be adequate but not very good. They really don't generally waste elbow grease on customer vehicles. Some repair tasks an amateur can do better since more time can be spent on it.

[vinyldude]

Absolutely done w/o disassembly. Can be fussy but not more or less than any tricky seal drive situation. BMW has some special seal driver but we didn't use it, used some generic tool I think.
Thank you for this info. I'm planning on a manual swap, therefore the interest.

[geargrinder]

Yeah. You still kinda takin' a shot at pro techs. though. "They really don't generally" etc. I would agree the owner will take extra time to wipe and clean and shine dirt up most of the time but...

The mechanics I use always do things right. Stuff looks clean and tidy and dirty and dust is all cleaned up where they've been in, and all proper and no shortcuts. And its not a problem because these guys have standards and pride in their work. The techs I use and am friends with refuse to do a crap job absolutely no matter what the economics are. Not saying bad ones don't exist obviously nightmare techs are all over the place, but there are plenty of techs who have high standards and won't do a job if it means cutting corners. Two shops I use now for instance will refuse to install parts if they feel those parts aren't up to standard i.e. a non-OEM part that isn't up to snuff. And it doesn't have anything to do w/ profits (they'll install a cheap part every time if they know it'll work) it has to do w/ "doing the right thing". Hell yes "time is money" but in the case of the 'good' guys they make MORE money on me because they bill me for the time they spend doing it right! Just ask my bank account...

Just saying. Techs are all over the map and there's good and bad but there's definitely good ones and people should patronize them and not reward the hacks.

Phenomenal balls to put that back together with so many fasteners missing and then 2 tubes of cheapo RTV!

[philly98540]

I think I'm one of the guys that overdrove that tranny input seal. If you push the seal in too far, the inner lip of the seal will hit the internal C-Clip that is inside the tranny. That causes the seal to go bad. There is no stop in the bottom of the seal bore to prevent the seal from being pushed too far. The BMW tool sets the depth for you but the tool is hard to find and expensive. I ended up making a tool from PVC pipe with a pipe coupling on the end. I think its 1.5" pipe, but I forget. Fits the tranny shaft and seal perfect and allows a perfect drive of the seal. Take notice of the depth of the old seal. Its face sits at the end of the bevel on the seal bore. Drive the new seal to this same depth and you will be good.

571527

[joekitch]

I think I'm one of the guys that overdrove that tranny input seal. If you push the seal in too far, the inner lip of the seal will hit the internal C-Clip that is inside the tranny. That causes the seal to go bad. There is no stop in the bottom of the seal bore to prevent the seal from being pushed too far. The BMW tool sets the depth for you but the tool is hard to find and expensive. I ended up making a tool from PVC pipe with a pipe coupling on the end. I think its 1.5" pipe, but I forget. Fits the tranny shaft and seal perfect and allows a perfect drive of the seal. Take notice of the depth of the old seal. Its face sits at the end of the bevel on the seal bore. Drive the new seal to this same depth and you will be good.

571527



oh nice, definitely taking note of this whenever i get a getrag 420. i'm surprised such common diameters worked out

[geargrinder]

Lol nice Chris. We needed one of those when we did (both) my trannies

[JimLev]

I didn't have a puller, I used some sheet metal screws into the 2 locations, connected them with some tubing fittings to a slide hammer to pull the seal out.
Then tapped the new seal in using a block of wood and hammer.

571532

571533

[philly98540]

I used a slide hammer too Jim. The screw kept stripping out of the seal, but eventually I got it out. I forgot about the shaft damaging the new seal. I used electrical tape wound around starting at the tranny end.

GG, lol. I had to do this twice! The second go round of droping the tranny and redoing the seal only took a couple of hours. I was so mad and just whipped through it like someone possessed.

[Firefighter3244]

Thanks guys! Appreciate it!

Let's not argue about mechanics, but this wasn't by a professional mechanic.
Continue!

So, I was able to make some progress tonight over a couple of hours.

I think i'm going to call it, and be done even though it's not perfectly clean.

First up the coolant plate off after knocking the gunk off. While I cleaned it, I'm not done! I'll finish and probably give it some Silver engine paint.


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And here we go!

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With the plate off.

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Big Side by side

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[blarf]

I was worried I put too much silicone on mine when I did the transmission swap. But I just used a fairly thin bead on one side! That's absolutely nuts.

[gmak]

Is it worth getting a new plate - for unseen aesthetics.

[geargrinder]

I'd agree if the plate was easy to get but it's not an easy junkyard pickup. not often you have easy access to the backside of a junk M62.

Could clean it up more with a soft wire wheel (brass) if you have one but don't use a normal steel wire or even most of those synthetic brush wheels, they'll put big scratches in the soft alu. Honestly it'll be fine though and nobodies hopefully going to ever see that again.

Just hysterical what a mess that was. How possibly did he lose all those bolts!?! How is it even possible to be that stupid!? Dumbfounding.

[auaq]

Make sure to use a paper homemade gasket, a lot of super glue, and staple the plate back on the engine.

Brought to you by injinius BMW injineers, the Ultimate DIY Specialists. :D

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GirlyGirl, I blame the pro mechanics for loosing all of the bolts. :astromile

Op, carry on with your excellent work! :buttrock

[Firefighter3244]

I'm going to take the plate and get it sandblasted. Then I plan on using Hi-Temp Engine paint in silver to clean it up real nice. I think it'll be okay doing that, don't you guys?

this stuff.

http://www.truckutv.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/Duplicolor_Product_VHT.jpeg

example

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y1/budgandy/Engine%20Swap/037.jpg


My grandpa has a sand blasting machine and it's large enough a wheel will fit in it. I'll also take the Flywheel, and should I sandblast the pressure plate too?

I need to figure out if I can re use the pressure plate or not. (I'm not trying to be cheap, obviously but I can't just spend money like crazy with my first child on his way in 2 months)

The other issue is, there are 5 broken bolts in the block for that coolant plate. I gotta buy something to remove those... I also need to figure out what threads those bolts are
so I can buy a threading kit to clean the rest of the block threads to accept the bolts for sure, just being safe.

This weekend I'll go back and start cleaning the transmission.

[auaq]

I think realoem should be able to tell you what size those bolts are. Just guessing but it could be like M8 or M10 by 1.0 or 1.5. Who ever worked on it must have over torqued those bolts enough to snap 'em in place and decided to leave 'em in there so that nobody will ever find out about several broken bolts.

- - - Updated - - -

Just get extractor drill bits and go slow with it. Keep it level too.

[theWalkinator]

I didn't know there is a coolant plate back there, what is the purpose of opening the coolant chambers and then sealing with a plate there? Same goes to valley pan, why it cannot be concealed?

[philly98540]

I believe they are M6 bolts. Be careful to center punch before drilling for the extractor.

[geargrinder]

GirlyGirl, I blame the pro mechanics for loosing all of the bolts. :astromile

Takes one to know one, Aquaman!


I'm going to take the plate and get it sandblasted. Then I plan on using Hi-Temp Engine paint in silver to clean it up real nice. I think it'll be okay doing that, don't you guys?

this stuff.

http://www.truckutv.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/Duplicolor_Product_VHT.jpeg

example

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y1/budgandy/Engine%20Swap/037.jpg


My grandpa has a sand blasting machine and it's large enough a wheel will fit in it. I'll also take the Flywheel, and should I sandblast the pressure plate too?

I need to figure out if I can re use the pressure plate or not. (I'm not trying to be cheap, obviously but I can't just spend money like crazy with my first child on his way in 2 months)

The other issue is, there are 5 broken bolts in the block for that coolant plate. I gotta buy something to remove those... I also need to figure out what threads those bolts are
so I can buy a threading kit to clean the rest of the block threads to accept the bolts for sure, just being safe.

This weekend I'll go back and start cleaning the transmission.



FiremanDan - few thoughts..

Actual sand will be super abrasive on alum like that, be careful - if you really mean "media" and he's running beads or walnuts or soda or something, thats better. Should be fine as long as you're careful.

I would NOT put the PP in there unless it's soft media, and even then... prob not. You'll never get all the abrasive particles out of the mechanism - could be a disaster.

At risk of getting flagged and ragged - again - PM me if you want a good deal on a like new M5 clutch... Maybe I'll PM you... then Philly can flag&rag me and we can continue on in privacy...

Re: extractors - strongly advise against the spiral-type which just seem to be good for breaking off in the hole and leaving hardened drill-proof metal in there. Look for the square ones. Drill the exact hole size they call for, otherwise they also can break.

For the bolts, Aqualad is right look at RealOEM it should say, if they aren't super asspenzivo you might nab OEM's, the OEM fastener quality is excellent vs what you usually find for metric fasteners unless you have a specialist near you.

[The Chucker]

Wow...the PO must have owned stock in Permatex.

[Mach540]

Not sure why you would waste the effort to sandblast the cover plate?? Get the gunk off and freshen up the sealing surface and be done with it.
Get some spray adhesive and stick a few sheets of 180 grit sandpaper on a large flat table surface or sheet of glass. Then rub the plate around on it to flatten out the mating surfaces. You will see very quickly where the high spots are. press harder there until the sand paper cuts completely across the surface. Then you are flat and true.

- - - Updated - - -

As for the busted bolts, heat and shock are your friends.
Get a small dremel grinding stone and get the broken area as flat as you can. A little scarring on the aluminum should not be a problem, as long as its kept to a minimum.
Then center punch it dead nuts center. Remember that the threads can give you a misleading idea of what is center. I'd put the cover on with a couple bolts and use it as a guide for the center punch.
Once you have a punch, get out your propane torch and heat them up as much as you can, then get the biggest, baddest hammer and center punch you have and whack each one as hard as you are capable of doing. DON'T smash your fingers......... Duh!

THEN, you can get out the drill bits and the square stud removers previously mentioned. They should come out easy.

[Firefighter3244]

Thanks guys.

I replied to your PM geargrinder.
It's actual sand if im not mistaken... so I guess I'll only use it on the flywheel when....
I could buy whatever media material I want and clean it out though since it's my grandpa's machine...

Mach540,
I cleaned that plate pretty damn well... Scrubbed it with a stainless steel brush. Still material on it. But yeah, you're right. I should just clean the mating surface and be done. I'm too
concerned with something that won't matter once I put it back together, but its one of those things for me the ole "I'll know it's there"

Thanks for the tips! I'll try to gather everything and work on that. It'll be a couple days before I can get around to it.

So is this what you're talking about using to remove them? Comes with the drill bit...
http://i5.walmartimages.com/dfw/dce07b8c-7103/k2-_f7f34394-6da0-4183-8c04-56b51ff0cfe4.v1.jpg

or like this

https://d2pbmlo3fglvvr.cloudfront.net/product/full/Z1-O6_fo5oy.JPG

this is going to suuuuuuuck

[JimLev]

I wouldn't sandblast the flywheel either. It's a dual mass unit that one section can move slightly when the clutch is released. Get sand in it and you won't get all of it out, you'll mess it up and have to buy a new one. Use some sandpaper.
If you re-use the PP it will have to be reset before you put it back in, it's a self adjusting unit.....so your screwed again.

Like Philly said, the cover plate uses M6 bolts. Be careful when you drill them, use a center punch and the consider some reverse drill bits, HF has them.
Good luck

[geargrinder]

Get a small dremel grinding stone and get the broken area as flat as you can. A little scarring on the aluminum should not be a problem, as long as its kept to a minimum.
Then center punch it dead nuts center. Remember that the threads can give you a misleading idea of what is center. I'd put the cover on with a couple bolts and use it as a guide for the center punch.
Once you have a punch, get out your propane torch and heat them up as much as you can, then get the biggest, baddest hammer and center punch you have and whack each one as hard as you are capable of doing. DON'T smash your fingers......... Duh!

More good tips here on the dremel / heat / whacking.

Another more obscure elaborate trick is this... if the stud is protruding a little bit, you can make a center-drilling jig out of a scrap of thick plate.

Make sure the plate shape will fit flat against the surface around the busted off stud. Mark the approx spot of the stud.
Using a drill press (must be square), drill a small pilot hole through the plate where the stud is - drill the size you want to use as your first pilot hole in the stud
Then using a drill bit the exact size of the stud, and using the pilot hole already drilled, and a drill press, drill a tiny recess in the plate just deep enough to allow the busted off piece to fit in the back.


You can then clamp that plate over the busted stud, and it should self-center, and provide a perfectly centered /concentric pilot drilling guide.

If the part in question has multiple studs, you can use the 'good' holes to bolt the plate to the mating surface. I've made jigs just like that for exhaust mani studs and it works great.

In case like this you could even make full drilling plate using your OEM part as the template. Cut the plate roughly to the shape of the OEM part. Through-drill the spots where you have 'good' stud holes now to mount it, then do the pilot-hole thing in the places you need to drill, using the OEM plate to guide location of the pilot holes. Measure a safe drilling depth for the whole stack so you don't damage anything, then bolt your drilling guide up, and drill pilot holes in all the bad dudes, then take the jig off and proceed from there.

- - - Updated - - -


http://i5.walmartimages.com/dfw/dce07b8c-7103/k2-_f7f34394-6da0-4183-8c04-56b51ff0cfe4.v1.jpg[/URL]


No that's the spiral kind.

I have no idea how they keep selling those POS's - every time I have ever seen one tried to be used it's broken.

I guess if you used it to remove a stud that wasn't actually seized it might work. If you were careful. Like if you had a loose hand-threaded bolt and cut the head off then maybe it would take it out without breaking.

This is the 'square' kind:
http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/SE25/5-PIECE-SCREW-EXTRACTOR-SET/

Crapsman sells a set too that's worked fine for me although I just broke one last week but that's because I was half-assed about the drill size I think and hole wasn't big enough. Dumbass.

[philly98540]

All really great tips in the few posts above. A good vs a great mechanic is knowing how to get out of a bind in times like this. Torqueing by feel and assembling stuff blind are learned skills that make a big difference between success and failure as well.

[Firefighter3244]

Okay guys, thanks for all the tips and advice.

I'm putting a list together of everything I need to buy.

1. Like new m5 clutch/Pressure plate from member here (Trying to make it happen, depends on final budget)
2. Pressure plate Bolts
3. Rear coolant plate Gasket
4. Rear coolant plate bolts
5. Extractor set for rear coolant plate bolts
6. Thread kit for factory rear coolant bolt holes
7. Thread kit for new side that didn't working taking out oe bolts (Haven't tried, just preparing for the worst)
8. Rear Main Seal, Gasket for Metal cover surround rear main seal
9. Input shaft transmission ( Should I buy this and replace it? )

[geargrinder]

Input shaft you couldn't find, nor replace if you did, (requires crazy jigs and presses and knowing how to disassemble tranny which is a big deal - major tranny shops can't do this for these boxes...) but you could do: pilot bearing, input and output shaft SEALS on the tranny.

[Firefighter3244]

Sorry, I meant the seal. LOL. I'm not opening up the transmission!

[Firefighter3244]

So Im kinda in a dead spot. having to redo my kitchen floors before out baby shower on the 29th. So once that's done I can get back to this 540i.
I haven't ordered anything yet either, I need to... My Local Oreillys had the square type bolt extractor, so I'll get that there I guess.

[Mach540]

Thanks for the update.
The left hand drill bits are an excellent suggestion. Might not even need the extractors if you do everything else right.

[Firefighter3244]

So I've been putting this off, we had our baby shower and I had some home projects to finish. Tiled the kitchen, dining room and laundry/pantry.


So, Back at it. I gotta get this done!

I'm thinking about pulling the motor, I mean what, a couple hours of work and its out?
Might make it A LOT easier to do this work. I don't know.

I still gotta figure out what threads these bolts have so I can buy a rethread kit and see how many of those are salvageable for oem bolts.

[Sleepyhead97]

Major props for cleaning all that up so well. What a shame how stupid people are. I get honest mistakes every now and again, but what I just witnessed here today was the result of stupidity.

Cant stop looking at that disaster you started with! lol.

If it was my car: I would replace the plate. Replace any seals I could get to. Replace any bushings that where in there.

Why replace the plate? Maybe not if you can be sure the surface is TRUE and clean without any pockmarks or divots.

[Firefighter3244]

To update this I sold the car.
As is, the guy towed it home obviously.

Let it go for like 1700, and the 300 he didn't have he traded me a 90 525i with mods. So i ended up with another car. lol damnit

[JimLev]

Probably a good move.
Hope the E34 is in much better condition.

[aspensilver540]

Big Side by side

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7571/26846860885_0a64fdab90_h.jpg

You are like a 540I Fairy Jesus swooping in for the save, Holy Toledo!



To update this I sold the car.
As is, the guy towed it home obviously.

Let it go for like 1700, and the 300 he didn't have he traded me a 90 525i with mods. So i ended up with another car. lol damnit

Wow, that's what the second project 540I you tore into some major problem on only to move on soon after? You are like the Danny of super problem cars. You love some massive challenge others would never get into. And on to the next, what's the deal there? :)