DIY Control Arms, Control Arm Bushings, and Tie Rods

[Patrokloss]

This isn’t intended to be a full writeup as there are several out there already, but a few tips and comments for those who are thinking about doing this.

The entire job was very time-consuming and labor-intensive, but I wouldn’t say it was difficult. I was pretty intimidated at first since my prior experience included nothing more complicated than changing fluids and swapping brakepads, but honestly, if you move slowly and carefully there is nothing to be afraid of here, as long as you can get access to a few tools (more on that in a minute). The best advice I can give you is just to take it nice and slow.

So, let’s break this down into sections, starting with the easier stuff and moving down to the more difficult:


Tie Rods

I didn’t really have a writeup for this, other than the Bentley manual. But the whole procedure is pretty straightforward. You’ll need the following parts (all parts for a 1997 M3):


- tie rod assembly, left and right - $53.90 each from eap4parts.com
- self-locking hex nuts (two) Part # 32 21 1 139 078 – a few bucks from the dealer
- lock plates (two) Part # 32 11 1 140 464 – about $10 a piece from the dealer
- tension straps (two of each) Part # 32 11 1 137 132, and # 32 11 1 126 568
(I didn’t realize I needed these, had to use zip ties as a temporary solution)
A tie rod puller (http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/in_our_stores/loan_a_tool/pullers_specialized/tie_rod_end.jsp) isn’t really needed, but I used one anyway since AutoZone loans them out basically for free (just need to leave them a deposit). If you don’t have a puller, a hammer or rubber mallet should work just fine. Just remove the hex nut off the outer end of the tie rod, throw it away, and bang down on the tie rod end until it pops free of the steering knuckle.

Obviously, make sure you have a full socket set and torque wrench handy. You won’t need any unusual tools, other than a very thin 32mm open-end wrench for securing the inner tie rod to the steering rack. I found a bicycle headset wrench that worked perfectly, but it cost me about $15. You could just use a pipe wrench if you don’t mind chewing up the tie rod a bit. (It won’t affect performance at all and the nut is hidden by the dust boot, so no one would see it if you did.) The only problem with this part, and it’s a recurring problem throughout this entire job, is that without the special BMW tool there’s no way to get the proper torque value. I called a local independent BMW shop and they said they basically do the same thing I did: guess. After you’ve torqued it down, you’ll be using a hammer to permanently bend the new lock plate around the outer edge of the nut to prevent it from coming loose. I know this all sounds kind of vague and confusing on paper, but once you get under the car and take a look it makes perfect sense.


Control Arms + Control Arm Bushings

There are several good writeups for this, but I didn’t follow any of them exactly. If you’re going to do what I did and replace your control arms and bushings at the same time, my recommendation is that you replace the control arms first, and then replace the bushings after the new control arms have been installed on the car, using the procedure and homemade tool detailed by Chris at www.understeer.com on the lower control arm bushing (lcab) tech page. This will make it much easier to get the car back on the ground within the necessary 30 minute time limit once you have the new bushings pressed onto the control arms. The tool works pretty well, but it can be a tad awkward, so you may want to practice using it once or twice with the old bushings (before you remove/destroy them) until you are proficient at it.

In terms of tools, go down to the local AutoZone and rent a ball joint separator (http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/in_our_stores/loan_a_tool/steering_suspension/ball_joint_separator.jsp) fork, a gear puller (http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/in_our_stores/loan_a_tool/pullers_universal/jaw_adjustable.jsp) to remove the control arms from the old bushings, and a harmonic balancer puller (http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/in_our_stores/loan_a_tool/pullers_specialized/harmonic_balancer.jsp) to build the homemade tool referenced above. If you don’t have a torque wrench, you can rent that, too. You could just buy all this stuff at Sears, but why spend the money when you can do it for free? AutoZone is my new best friend… I borrowed $175 worth of tools (some of which I didn’t end up using) for four days and it cost me… zero. You just have to leave them a deposit for the full amount, and they refund it when you bring the tools back. This is a sweet, sweet deal. Check out the details at AutoZone.com (http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/in_our_stores/loan_a_tool/loan_a_tool.jsp)

In terms of parts, here’s what you’ll need:


- left and right control arms ($149 each from eap4parts.com)
- control arm bushing kit (contains a set of two bushings) - $42.95 from eap4parts.com
- self locking hex nuts for inner ball joint (two) – Part # 31 12 1 095 420
- self locking hex nuts for outer ball joint (two) – Part # 32 21 1 095 267
- self locking hex nuts for sway bar endlink (two) – Part # ???

Again, all parts are for a 1997 M3. You’ll also need a good set of open-end wrenches… I bought a 22mm combination stubby from Sears for the inner ball joint nut, only to find out that the new nuts have been updated with a smaller outer diameter. The 22mm won’t work on them. I’m not sure exactly what size they are, but I ended up using a 13/16” wrench that worked just about perfectly.

I found that in order to maneuver the wrench to get the inner ball joint nut off, I had to completely remove my sway bar, which isn’t something that was mentioned in ANY of the writeups I had. So, your results may vary I suppose. This is another area where it’s impossible to get a torque wrench in there too, so do this at your own risk.

Popping the ball joints free isn’t as hard as I feared. Just wedge the separator fork in there, then grab a sledgehammer and bang it straight in. Five or six good whacks knocked mine right out, and they’ve been stuck in there for eight years. Don’t be intimidated by this—it’s not as hard as some people have made it out to be. I'm a weak, scrawny guy with very little mechanical experience... so if I can do it, anybody can.


The control arm bushings were, by far, the most difficult part of this whole procedure. The old ones are REALLY tough to remove and getting the new ones in isn’t much easier. I secured the lollipop bracket in a bench vice and then used a sawzall to cut through the middle of the bushing. Basically, just follow Chris’ procedure at understeer.com. Cut the bushing in half, then turn the bracket sideways and use a hammer and chisel around the outside of the bushing to force it inward away from the bracket. After a while it will start to collapse and you can push it out. This is the only way I could get it to work without some kind of specialized hydraulic press. Some people have mentioned using a gear puller to get them out, but I don’t see how… They are freaking indestructible. I kid you not, I spent two hours working with a three-ton puller (I don't like saws) :D and it did nothing but strip the threads on the puller. The bushing stayed intact. Just use a sawzall.

To get the new bushings in, I put them in the freezer for a few hours, lubed them up, and then used a sledgehammer and a flat piece of wood to coax them into the lollipop brackets. The only problem here is that the bushing has to stick out about ¼” past the bracket on both sides... Try to use a smaller hammer to tap around the outside until the bushing is centered in the bracket, and do so quickly before the bushing thaws out and expands too much. Then grab your homemade tool, get the bushings onto the control arms, bolt the lollipops back up to the frame and get the car on the ground. You're done.

Oh, and the end result was GREAT. The car feels so much tighter now! Definitely worth the effort for a car like mine with 85k miles. :redspot

Anyway, those are my rambling, somewhat disconnected thoughts on this whole job. I went slow and spread the job out over several days, but it wasn’t too bad really. Now that I know what to do I’m sure I could do it all over in a single day. If you're going to try it, just give yourself plenty of time.

Perform any of the above at your own risk. As always, be sure to use safe and proper jacking and bracing procedures, and wear safety goggles and mechanics gloves at all times. :)

If anybody has any questions, feel free to PM me. Good luck.

[Dinan330ic]

wow, this is great. Thank you

I just found out that my CABs are bad, so i'll be changing that and the control arm soon.

Where in CA are you?

[rwindleyme02]

Awesome "write-up!" Why'd you replace your Control Arms? Any reason?

Thanks! :clap:

[Spencer]

Nice writeup.

I just did my tie rods, but re-used the lock plates... oops.

When you put the new lock plates in, do they function so the "locking" mechanism will only work once?? I'm wondering if I should put new ones in.

[YoWsup]

how often do the tie-rods and the CA's go out? Are they easily bendable? I'm assuming steering starts to feel a bit disconnected and loose...

[Patrokloss]

Where in CA are you?
Central Coast, mainly Cal Poly/San Luis Obispo.



Why'd you replace your Control Arms? Any reason?
I was driving around on bent rims for a while, and consequently I think I blew out my ball joints. I had a lot of shaking and wheel shimmy at highway speeds. The new control arms with integrated ball joints eliminated most of that. I still have a small shimmy coming from somewhere... hopefully I haven't bent another rim... :rolleyes:



I just did my tie rods, but re-used the lock plates... oops.

When you put the new lock plates in, do they function so the "locking" mechanism will only work once?? I'm wondering if I should put new ones in.
You should only need to do this if you replace the complete tie-rod assembly like I did. If you're just replacing the outer tie rod, I don't think you need to bother with it. But they shouldn't be re-used... Not unless you manage to screw in the new tie rod assy in such a way that the nut is lined up in the exact same position that the old one was. Not exactly easy. Much better and safer to just replace the lock-plate IMO.



how often do the tie-rods and the CA's go out? Are they easily bendable? I'm assuming steering starts to feel a bit disconnected and loose...
Depends on circumstances... See above. I think the general consensus is they should be replaced around 80-100k miles. The control arms themselves don't go bad unless you bend them somehow, but the ball joints wear out, and on the M3 you have to replace the control arm/ball joint assemblies as a complete unit.

[kaiservon]

Wow. Thanks for taking the time to write all that up :buttrock

[slcook54]

Awesome write up, I am also suffering from bent rims which has led to premature wear of my bushings? Do I have to replace the control arms also, or with tie rods and CAB's suffice? Wouldn't mind saving $300.

[Patrokloss]

Awesome write up, I am also suffering from bent rims which has led to premature wear of my bushings? Do I have to replace the control arms also, or with tie rods and CAB's suffice? Wouldn't mind saving $300.

The first thing to do, if you haven't already, is to get those wheels straightened or replaced. Then be sure to keep your tires inflated to 40-44psi to prevent it happening again.

From what I have been told in the past, the issue of bent rims is most likely to cause premature wear on the ball joints and/or tie rods, and we all know that in order to replace the M3 ball joints, the whole control arm must be replaced. The control arm bushings seem pretty tough to me... That's probably the last thing I would change. It's the cheapest, but by far the most difficult of the three.

[slcook54]

The first thing to do, if you haven't already, is to get those wheels straightened or replaced. Then be sure to keep your tires inflated to 40-44psi to prevent it happening again.

From what I have been told in the past, the issue of bent rims is most likely to cause premature wear on the ball joints and/or tie rods, and we all know that in order to replace the M3 ball joints, the whole control arm must be replaced. The control arm bushings seem pretty tough to me... That's probably the last thing I would change. It's the cheapest, but by far the most difficult of the three. Yeah, I should be picking up my new wheels next week (97 Doublespoke II's) 40-44psi seems really high! It is unfortunate but looks like I will have to pick up some control arms. :(

[OldM3]

I just performed this same work using the methods outlined here and understeer.com.

The bolts for the control arm are 19mm and 22mm, you may not have those wrenches. You can get the bolts out without removing the sway bar, there is just very limited room.

The 22mm deepwell did me no good, it just butted up against the the car. A 22mm and a small 3/8" ratchet did the trick. I also used the 19mm and 22mm wrench to assure they were torqued well.

Tie rods are a fairly straight forward job. I used a pair of channel locks to remove the end from the steering rack. used ball joint fork to remove the other side.

As far as the CA bushings. I pulled them off with a gear puller. To get them out of the bracket I removed the inner metal core by drilling it out. Then I took a chisel and deformed bushing down on both sides. Then I took a mini-sledge(great tool to have) and pounded a couple of flat head scew drivers through. This deformed the bracket and then i just pounded the bushing out with the mini-sledge.

To put them in i used a board and the mini sledge to pound them in. To put the assembly on the control arm you should definitely build the tool on understeer. Follow his instructions and you'll have the car down in under 30mins no problem.

[M3_boogie]

Nice writeup Patrokloss - I'm doing the same thing this winter.

Just an FYI - you can order all those misc. nuts/bolts/locking plates/tension staps/etc from EAP4parts.com even though they are not on the website. Just put the part #'s (some of which have been superceded, see below) and a brief description in the "Comments to us" field when ordering and Dave will take care of you (on the cheap too!).



32 11 1 140 464 - tie rod lock plates [2]
32 11 1 137 132 - tension straps [2]
32 11 1 126 568/32 13 1 094 100 - tension straps [2]
32 21 1 139 078/32 21 6 756 327 - locking hexnuts [2]
31 12 1 095 420 - inner balljoint locking hexnuts [2]
32 21 1 095 267 - outer balljoint locking hexnuts [2]

[BMWManiac]

maybe we can sticky this...? I have all this ready to go, but I am just worried I won't get the car back down in 30 minutes...what is with the timelimit anyways?

I guess I should be ok, but is it worth the risk...

[M3_boogie]

maybe we can sticky this...? I have all this ready to go, but I am just worried I won't get the car back down in 30 minutes...what is with the timelimit anyways?

I guess I should be ok, but is it worth the risk...
If you do the control arms, you can put the bushing in the lolipops and put them on the control arms, THEN put the arms back on the car. This is my plan and should make it a lot easier to get the bushing onto the arms since you aren't under the car and can use leverage to help. Getting the arms back on the car within 30min should be a lot easier than using Chris' tool to pull them onto the arms while the arms are on the car.

[Patrokloss]

If you do the control arms, you can put the bushing in the lolipops and put them on the control arms, THEN put the arms back on the car. This is my plan and should make it a lot easier to get the bushing onto the arms since you aren't under the car and can use leverage to help. Getting the arms back on the car within 30min should be a lot easier than using Chris' tool to pull them onto the arms while the arms are on the car.
Using the tool is perfectly simple... Then when you're done all you have to do is bolt the lollipops to the frame and drop the car back down. VERY easy to do in 30 minutes... actually more like 5 minutes.

On the other hand, putting both control arms and both lollipops on the car in under 30 minutes could be a real challenge. There isn't really a lot of room to work, which makes the whole procedure both awkward and tedious. On the inner ball joint nuts I couldn't crank the wrench more than about a quarter-turn at a time. Then you have to worry about torquing them properly, etc. Not saying it can't be done, but it wouldn't be my preferred method.

[JClark]

Great write-up. I've been meaning to do a massive bushing replacement soon.

[bimmerzone]

Patrokloss, Very nice write up...
Could we put this on our website? If you want us to display your real name and info, we would be happy to do so. Please let me know

Thanks!

Vince

[Patrokloss]

The whole purpose of this thread was to help people out, so by all means, feel free to post it anywhere you like. :cool

[bimmerzone]

Thank you :)

[linuxrick]

yeah nice write up, im doing some much needed work on mine soon, this will help! :buttrock

if I think about it and keep my camera somewhat grease free, I will try and take some pictures during.

[orangechicken]

I just wanted to add some notes to this for posterity. Just having finished the exact same replacements here are some things that I learned:

CONTROL ARMS
- For the inner ball joint nut, get a Craftsman 19 x 22mm 12 pt Ratcheting Box-End Offset Wrench!! This makes *ALL* the difference in the world when trying to get that inaccessible nut off (you shouldn't have to remove anything to get access to it with the offset wrench). Plus, because it's a ratcheting box-end wrench you don't have to take reseat the wrench. It makes *very* quick work on that damn nut.

- If your ball joints are frozen and aren't responding to the good ol' pickle fork (I was able to actually hammer mine *all* the way in and it still didn't break the joint somehow), get out the crowbar, seat it properly, and raise the jack under it (thank goodness for hydraulics)

- If you have a local independent BMW service shop, by all means take your (empty) carrier and new bushings to them and have them install the bushings. I was charged all of $15 and it saved me gobs of time I would've spent trying to center the carrier with a hammer.

- Install both control arms first then go back and install the bushings

- If you have a convertible (mine is a '94), to make the end of the control arm accessible I had to remove the steel skid plate that attaches to the subframe (?? don't know what it's called... don't even know why I have one - thought convertibles came with X-braces...)

- To get better access to the attach the bushing once the control arms are installed, use a jack to raise the control arm near the outer ball joint - this swings the bushing "attachment point" down

- When using the tool that understeer.com shows you to make, ensure that the bar is centered through the first hole on the control arm. This will make sure that the bushing slides straight on and keeps your tool from binding

TIE RODS
- I found that the Bentley-suggested method of "pushing back the dust boot" didn't work. So I removed the tension strap on the inner side and slid the whole boot down towards the outside

- Definitely get that bicycle head-nut wrench (32mm). The one I got was from REI and was less than $10 I think

- Tieing up the outer end of the tie rod (with a now-straightened tension strap) gave me more working room


Hope that helps someone out there! Remember that this will likely take about three times as long as you planned (took me three days - one in the rain YECH)

On to the RTABs!!!

[M3_boogie]

I still don't understand why so many people are going through the trouble of putting the control arms on the car first, then using Chris' "special tool" to put the bushings on them. There is really no reason to do this. It is MUCH MUCH easier to put the bushings on the arms before you put the arms back on the car.

Many people are under the assumption that you need to get the car back on the ground within 30 minutes after putting the bushings on the control arms, and the difficulty getting to the nut for the center ball joint on the control arm leads them to put the arm on the car first. While I agree you should get the car on the ground relatively soon to let it settle, the 30 minute time limit simply does not apply <B>unless you are using the BMW kerosene-based lubricant to put the bushings on the arms</b>. The solvent (kerosene) in this lube slightly dissolves the rubber bushing and then evaporates quickly adhering the bushing to the control arm. If you use soap or something similar, the soap will eventually get washed away but will certainly be there longer than 30 minutes from application!

If you are ONLY replacing the bushings, then obviously you probably don't want to take the control arms off the car to put the new bushings on, so use Chris' handy tool. If you are replacing the control arms AND the bushings, there really is no reason to do it the hard way.

While I won't quote my private conversation with him in a public forum, I will say that I spoke to Chris directly and he agreed about putting the bushings on the arms before putting them in the car when replacing the control arms and bushings. The tool was designed keeping in mind it's use for replacing bushings WITHOUT replacing the control arms.

[Stinky]

I still don't understand why so many people are going through the trouble of putting the control arms on the car first, then using Chris' "special tool" to put the bushings on them. There is really no reason to do this. It is MUCH MUCH easier to put the bushings on the arms before you put the arms back on the car.

Many people are under the assumption that you need to get the car back on the ground within 30 minutes after putting the bushings on the control arms, and the difficulty getting to the nut for the center ball joint on the control arm leads them to put the arm on the car first. While I agree you should get the car on the ground relatively soon to let it settle, the 30 minute time limit simply does not apply <B>unless you are using the BMW kerosene-based lubricant to put the bushings on the arms</b>. The solvent (kerosene) in this lube slightly dissolves the rubber bushing and then evaporates quickly adhering the bushing to the control arm. If you use soap or something similar, the soap will eventually get washed away but will certainly be there longer than 30 minutes from application!

If you are ONLY replacing the bushings, then obviously you probably don't want to take the control arms off the car to put the new bushings on, so use Chris' handy tool. If you are replacing the control arms AND the bushings, there really is no reason to do it the hard way.

While I won't quote my private conversation with him in a public forum, I will say that I spoke to Chris directly and he agreed about putting the bushings on the arms before putting them in the car when replacing the control arms and bushings. The tool was designed keeping in mind it's use for replacing bushings WITHOUT replacing the control arms.
I would have done it that way if I knew this beforehand. Either way, it's easy to do.

[orangechicken]

Very good to know, Boogie. I'll keep that in mind the *next* time I do the job (wink).

[Broken325is]

I hammered on my outer ball joints all day and got nowhere. The pickle fork popped the inner ball joints loose with hardly any force. Tomorrow I think I will put a torch to the housing around the outer ball joint post to see if I can expand it enough to pop out the ball joint. I thought this would be a breeze!

[forksports]

I feel you man, I hate doing ball joints on any car. They tend to seized up over time, but usually hammering and shaking it for a long time does the job for me.

[orangechicken]

Go get a pitnam puller that fits! It makes life about a billion times easier!

[Patrokloss]

I couldn't find a puller that would fit the outer ball joint. The clearance over the steering knuckle is nonexistent.

A pickle fork / ball joint fork WILL work, though. Just make sure you have a good heavy sledgehammer to go with it. Wedge the fork in there as far as you can, and then pound it straight in.

Not to be condescending, but make sure you use the fork the way it's meant to be used. I had two different people giving me WRONG instructions on how to use it. The first one said to use a rubber mallet, which will never ever work (ask me how I know). The second one said to wedge the fork into the ball joint and then pound DOWN on it like a lever, which is also *completely* wrong. You want to pound it straight in like you're hammering a nail into the ball joint. It's crazy how many people are running around these boards issuing stupid bad advice. I swear some people are out to sabotage us DIYers.

Anyway, mine were pretty badly siezed up as well, but once I got the technique right five or six full-bodied whacks with the sledgehammer popped them loose. Try that if you haven't already, and don't be afraid to put some thrust into it (just don't miss and hit your fender, ouch!). Good luck.

[rocket808]

i didn't even use the fork. i just hit it with the 3 pound hammer till it came off. wasn't that hard.

[djbit]

Did the both tie rods and control arm bushings today. I have to go get it aligned tomorrow and I hope the re-centers the steering wheel.

[Dolemite]

tag.

I'll be doing this next weekend. Great writeup!

[///Mr. Three]

Does the car need to be re-aligned after doing all this work? I need to freshen up the front end soon.............

[.jordan]

i just did new control arms and bushings...its pretty easy to get the bushings on while they are off the car. All i used was some soap and my hands..prolly took about 5 secs for each one. Got both arms on in ~30 min. also.

[bimmeracer3]

subscribed

[Sadiq]

The second one said to wedge the fork into the ball joint and then pound DOWN on it like a lever, which is also *completely* wrong. You want to pound it straight in like you're hammering a nail into the ball joint.


you can do it this way if you get the pickle fork all the way in and the joint still hasnt separated. in fact, i had to resort to doing it this way on my brother's mustang last night. the pickle fork wasn't thick enough so i ended up pounding up and down on it. I eventually just gave it one good stomp with my foot and it came loose. improvisation is the key to good mechanicking.:alright

[JM3]

anyone in the bay area want to do this for me? :)

i'll pay you of course

[bimmeracer3]

im kind of stuck on the tie rods. in order to remove to inner tie rod do i have to use a skinny 32mm wrench or remove or break the lock around it and if so how?
also, is it required for me to use a skinny 32mm wrench or can i use the one i used on the fan clutch after i remove the lock?

[328iJunkie]

+1 about the wrench

[rootuddha]

You pretty much have to use a thin 32mm wrench on the tie rods...just ignore the lock you shouldn't have any problems. What fan clutch wrench are you talking about?

[bimmeracer3]

i used a regular 32mm wrench to remove my fan clutch to change the whole cooling system.
where can i find a skinny wrench locally?
also can anyone tell me more about this bicycle wrench?

[Johno]

Does the car need to be re-aligned after doing all this work?

Yes. With my car it felt not just out of alignment, but posessed. The car wanted to steer itself, and it made tire-squeal noises at highway speeds. Do not be surprised if it feels like you did something "wrong." You will want your first drive to be directly to the alignment shop.


also can anyone tell me more about this bicycle wrench?

It's a thin flat wrench that is handy to have. You can get one for about $15 by calling to bicycle shops. 50 percent of the two shops I called stocked one. The one I got is not robust. But it got the job done...

As for nut sizes, before you do the install, venture under the car and attempt to apply your socket or wrench to the target nuts. This is because different year cars have sizes that differ. My 99 did not match up to what is listed at the start of the thread. (I forgot what sizes mine required.) Another thing -- there is one of the metric nuts that is a near perfect match with an SAE socket or wrench. Again, I forgot that spec too. But the point is that if you have standard sockets and wrenches, chances are good you already have one of the bolts covered. By using the SAE wrench or socket, I was able to get by with a standard set of sears metric wrenches/sockets.


One final thing -- to get my control arms to drop out I had to hammer them as hard as I absolutely could with a 3-pound sledge. And I am a pretty beefy guy. Don't be afraid of "hurting" the control arms or you will not succeed.

[ChosenGSR]

Resurrecting a really old (very informative) thread as I want to add a few things for those tackling this in the future.

A few tips for control arms:

1. If you can't find a 22mm stubby a 7/8 will work just as well.
2. When hammering out the outer ball joint, sometimes you have to move the hub (as if you're turning the wheel) to get that sucker out. I had my steering wheel full lock when trying to hammer mine out with a fork and no dice, as soon as I adjusted the steering angle slightly the joint popped out.
3. When tightening the nuts on either of the ball joints there is a chance the the joint itself will be spinning wit the nut. If that happens to you then use a jack to lock the ball joint into it's place, that'll keep it from spinning as you're tightening it.

On to tie rods tomorrow for me :)

[libravcs]

I went through this awhile back, but ended up doing the tierods, balljoints, struts, and rear shocks, rear shock mounts myself, and taking her in to have the local independent handle the Lower control arms/LCAB's and the alignment. Went with all OEM parts using CCA discount at the dealers parts department. The end result is amazing. Ride is as tight as new, ride quality is very good, and handling is still..many years later..world class. At 86k miles.

[HolE39]

anyone in the bay area want to do this for me? :)

i'll pay you of course

My friend has a shop in Fremont and did mine. Let me know if you or any bay area folks need a reasonably priced hook-up

///M3

[STL Avus M3]

What is the easiest way to get the bushing/lollipop back on the control arm when off the car? I trying hammering it on, but that isnt doing much.

[NollieStylz]

THANK YOU! Money saved = :buttrock

[rootuddha]

What is the easiest way to get the bushing/lollipop back on the control arm when off the car? I trying hammering it on, but that isnt doing much.

Soap it up and hammer it, or use a press? Should have went with a poly bushing ;)

Also if you have trouble getting the two holes on the lollipop lined back up on the car, use a screwdriver or something and pry on one hole.

[Kaiv]

FWIW check out my DIY over at E36-tech.
(http://forum.e36-tech.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1689)Has pictures.

[STL Avus M3]

Soap it up and hammer it, or use a press? Should have went with a poly bushing ;)

Also if you have trouble getting the two holes on the lollipop lined back up on the car, use a screwdriver or something and pry on one hole.



So hammering on it wont destroy the rubber in the bushing? I soaped the hell out of it, but it seemed the ole BFH wasn't the best route to take.

I am not too concerned about lining up the holes, just need to push the bushing on enough.

[rootuddha]

no just use a rubber mallet or put a block of wood over it.

[1992E36]

Hey guys im new to this forum and i was wondering if some one can help me out?? I have 92 325i and i recently just bought new tie rods, but the damn things dont fit and they are made for a 92 325i is it possible that a previous owner used a different steering rack?? and what other steering rack would be compatible to my car?

[Patrokloss]

Post the part number for the tie rods you bought, as well as the part number for the steering rack (if you can find it), and we might be able to help...

What exactly do you mean when you say the tie rods don't fit?

[///Mitch3]

Thank you!!! My FCABs LCABs RTABS and Control arms all need to be replaced. I plan on doing them very soon.

[whatthedealee]

Did my tie rods, control arms and bushings, and power steering hoses today. This and another DIY was key to giving me the confidence to attempt such a task. :buttrock

It's easier to remove the center Control Arm ball joint nut when the tie rods are removed, It took quite some time to remove them, they were on tight and there isn't much room. I was able to use a 22mm and 13/16inch wrench without removing the swaybar.

I bought new bushings and lollipop brackets because I didn't feel like dealing with taking out the old bushings, and I had Firestone press the bushings into the lollipops for me... they charged me $30.

I used the dish soap method to put the bushings onto the Control Arms, and reinstalled everything within an hour.

Use a jack to push up on the ball joints when securing the nuts, it keeps the shaft from turning, i did this on all the ball joint, even the one on the Tie Rod.

I used a ball joint fork from autozone to remove all the components, both tie rod and control arm. The outer control arm bushing needed quite a bit of pounding and swearing but it eventually fell out.

My car is steering to the right now and my wheel is off center... time for an alignment straight away tomorrow morning!

I also did my shocks, struts, RSM's, and rotors the last couple of weekends... hopefully this will eliminate the mysterious wheel shake I get randomly!

:redspot:alright

[BeemOn]

M3_boogie - I realize my reply is very late to the show, but maybe I can shed some light to those still searching for specific DIY's and fixes - in this case the specific removal/installation of the LCA bushing/bracket (lollipop) that can be bought as an assembly.

For any of you - please - don't get nervous from overzealous DIY's on a bunch of forums. While everyone appreciates DIY's that save thousands of $$$, M3_Boogie is right in his assessment. :alright
If you've never done this installation before, just read this and remove all doubts. You won't believe how easy it really is.
While the 'To Do' list below looks long - just read it thru. Trust me, it is so simple it is just silly. Print this, look under the car while reading this, and then get busy!
If you are on a tight budget - then only replacing the bushings themselves WILL require the old bushings to be removed (time/effort) AND new bushings pressed (in some way) into the existing lollipops (more time/effort). As some have noted - you either have this done (requiring REMOVAL OF THE LCA's!!! and a trip - is it worth it?) OR you build/buy a puller/presser (order time/cost?).
IF you buy the bushing/lollipop brackets assembled (for instance $90 Meyle heavy duty from BAVAuto for a pair), you CAN do this replacement in 30-45 minutes TOTAL. At 90 bucks and time/money saved - I do not see the value in just buying the bushings themselves.
I dont intend to be repetitive or take away from others, but after having just done this installation - it is far simpler than many DIY's on mulitple websites I've seen on the bushing/lollipop replacement.
"I am not reponsible for your safety!" (I hate saying stuff like this!)
Follow this: It goes fast, believe me.
YOU DO NOT REMOVE LCA's TO REPLACE THE BUSHING LOLLIPOP ASSEMBLIES!!!!!
- Run the car up on ramps for working space.
- Place jackstands about 6-8 inches aft of the LCA bushing/lollipop brackets (each side) under the strongest boxed part of the frame that runs the length of the pan. This is your backup safety in addition to the ramps.
- LEAVE WHEELS ON!
- LEAVE WEIGHT ON WHEELS! Don't overthink these points! I just now proved all this for myself!
- Remove the plastic splash pan under engine (phillips head screws).
- Remove the aluminum structural 'pan'. 8 - 16mm bolts (super easy removal for clearance to the lollipops)
- Remove all 4 - 16mm bolts holding the lollipop brackets (2 each side)
The aft end of the LCA's will then drop or can be pulled down a few inches for removal/installation of the lollipops.
**All the above literally took about 15 minutes**
- Make a mark on the NEW lollipops to match the angle (or clocking) of the old lollipops to align with the LCA's so that you won't have to twist them once on or preload them incorrectly. Make sure you have correct lollipop for each side of the car.
- You WILL need a cheap 2 prong puller now. I used an ancient piece of crap puller (seriously) and it worked perfectly. Make sure it has a depth of at least 3-4 inches to 'catch' the bushing to pull it off the LCA. I thought I could beat these off with a hammer and wood block. Don't be tough here...you are wasting your time. Buy a cheap 2 prong puller, it will last your lifetime! You do not need a mega puller - the bushings are not on there that tight.
- Clean off the ends of the LCA's of old rubbery debris that could hinder pushing on the new bushings/lollipops.
- GENEROUSLY lube the ends of the LCA's AND the inside of the new bushings with liquid dish soap.
- Making certain to notice my alignment marks for aligning with the LCA - I then pushed the new lollipop assemblies on WITH MY HANDS. I am not Superman! Not loose, correct fit. Make sure they are on all the way. If yours are stubborn - use a hammer and wood block.
- Now, notice the LCA's have shifted out of alignment from the protruding dowels (2 each side) they are to seat on at the chassis structure.
- Take a long screwdriver thru one of the lollipop holes with upward hand pressure to seat the lollipop on the dowels. Once on the dowels - the lollipop will stay in place while prepping the bolts.
- Use a dab of Loctite blue (in my opinion) on the lollipop bolts and torque appropriately. (It is noteworthy these 4 bolts did NOT have any 'adhesive' on them from the factory).
- If one LCA does not want to cooperate when aligning with dowels - perhaps the remaining side you choose to do - just jack up one side of the car <<a little>> to relieve SOME weight on wheel so that you can then align the lollipop with the dowels. (Notice you are moving the Toe In/Toe out in this process). But it does not change the adjustment. A front end alignment is not mandatory here.
- Replace panels removed at the beginning in reverse order. Ensure all bolts are properly tight. You are done. And you just saved no telling how much money in doing this yourself.
If this took you an hour - I'd be surprized.

Now for the icing: My wife just took the car out (with 103k miles) and said it "drives like a new car!" and that was just in $90 worth of bushing assembly replacements. BTW - the balljoints still felt stiff. That's good news! Don't throw away the old lollipops. Someone may need them on some forum somewhere....who knows.
Thank you for your time!