New Project Car - 2003 DINAN 5 M-Sport - TFSP, Maybe More issues. Help Appreciated

[AquilaBMW]

Okay... this is a funny / interesting story. I first encountered this particular car about two years ago. I actually worked on the car at my buddy's shop when it came in.

It recently came up for sale on CL and I watched the price coming down till it was down to $6900. Car has 204K miles on it, 3rd owner. very clean CarFax with complete service history and receipts. Car has rare combination of Squared 19" M-Pars from none other than Dennis Cooper. It also has StopTech St-4 BBKs on front and rear axels. Car is also a DINAN 5, but lowered with Bilsteins. Biltsteins were replaced 10K miles ago.

I met the owner and we were pretty much at $6K on the car, which might seem a lot for the high miles, but the car has brakes worth 1/2 that so I figured why not? Well, this morning just before taking delivery, the Seller called me to tell me the car displayed TFSP on the way to work and he pulled over with the car shuddering. After he turned it off, the car will not crank over anymore. Like ZERO response to the key. It doesn't click or anything at all. I ended up paying like $3k for it.

Now, I'd like to see if I can fix it or figure out the issue. Hopefully it is not the transmission that went out. I would appreciate any and all suggestions or ideas on this. I haven't pulled any codes yet, I will start checking the car out tomorrow. I was towed to me today.

Cheers!

SPECS:

Dinan High Flow Air Meter
Dinan Strunt Brace
Dinan High Flow Cold Air Intake
Dinan High Flow Throttle Body
Dinan Software
H&R Springs
Bilstein Sport Shocks Front & Rear.
Magnaflow 14816
StopTech 83.135.0047.51 Front & Rear / ST-40
M5 2003 Right & Left Door minors
Rear truck sportier
Very Rare M-parallels Wheels 19" all 4's Tire 255x35x19.

Pics:

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww171/ElaineBeemer/ElaineBeemer126/00R0R_93MIUdsFLk4_600x450.jpg

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww171/ElaineBeemer/ElaineBeemer126/00707_jVIJkfQtr4N_600x450.jpg

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww171/ElaineBeemer/ElaineBeemer126/00909_bS6LGEfPy0x_600x450.jpg

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww171/ElaineBeemer/ElaineBeemer126/00T0T_3ECqcsTV3Pv_600x450.jpg

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww171/ElaineBeemer/ElaineBeemer126/00v0v_iR7FjBnSVmB_600x450.jpg

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww171/ElaineBeemer/ElaineBeemer126/00E0E_1gJgKRSuuXb_600x450.jpg

[jp5Touring]

First thing I would do is swap out the BBK and 19's. The rest is bonus.
Good luck with it.

[AquilaBMW]

First thing I would do is swap out the BBK and 19's. The rest is bonus.
Good luck with it.

No plans to keep the 19's.

[Flounderasu]

Car is totaled - give me the Mpars.

[AquilaBMW]

car is totaled - give me the mpars.

he he :)

[justinca540i]

Those badges

[AquilaBMW]

Those badges

What the problem is? They iz M badges... LOL! :)

[Cereal]

Nice pickup

I'm sure you know, pretty rare wheels that will fetch ya good money!

[AquilaBMW]

Nice pickup

I'm sure you know, pretty rare wheels that will fetch ya good money!

Thank You. I first need to see if my 19" wheels will fit over the StopTech brakes, otherwise I need to keep these.

[dk500]

Pls put on BMW badges lmao. Otherwise looks clean haha. Maybe it is time for a 6 speed swap. I did see this car on a ricer thing for the ///M badges on car throttle haha.

[AquilaBMW]

Pls put on BMW badges lmao. Otherwise looks clean haha. Maybe it is time for a 6 speed swap. I did see this car on a ricer thing for the ///M badges on car throttle haha.

First priority is to see if I can get it running again. Then go from there.

[Mach540]

Put a new alternator and battery in it...... Good to go.

Then drive, stop, repeat.

[AquilaBMW]

Put a new alternator and battery in it...... Good to go.

Then drive, stop, repeat.

Alternator is relatively new. Car still has electric power, doubtful alternator is dead. I need to check the battery though. However, I suspect that there is no power to starter at all.

[mapleridge]

those are not stock 19's right? I have never heard of that.

[AquilaBMW]

those are not stock 19's right? I have never heard of that.

They are replica wheels. Dennis provided them a while back. This set came from him too.

[tmvE39E53Z32TT]

.....
SPECS:

Dinan High Flow Air Meter
Dinan Strunt Brace
Dinan High Flow Cold Air Intake
Dinan High Flow Throttle Body
Dinan Software
H&R Springs
Bilstein Sport Shocks Front & Rear.
Magnaflow 14816
StopTech 83.135.0047.51 Front & Rear / ST-40
M5 2003 Right & Left Door minors
Rear truck sportier <- You have to show me what this look like :stickoutt
Very Rare M-parallels Wheels 19" all 4's Tire 255x35x19.



I HATE YOU as you keep having these amazing deals falling on your lap :D

[Smx55]

Very nice at a good price!

[AquilaBMW]

I HATE YOU as you keep having these amazing deals falling on your lap :D

He He.... There was just no way to say no to this car, even if it needed a new transmission. I am hoping it's something electrical that I can fix and drive it around for a bit. That trunk is the limited edition "Sportier" M5 spoiler... :) Total typo


Very nice at a good price!

Thank you much. Hope I can get it sorted out somehow.

[e34m50tu]

wonder if you're up for trades...

I'll trade you my Sterling Gray for this. I have lots of new parts! :D:D:D

[dannyzabolotny]

How about those timing chain guides though? A 2003 540i is bound to have some issues with them at 204k miles.

[vegaslightsss]

I would check the fuse block that has the five 30 amp fuses. I'm not sure where they are on the e39 but if it's like the e38 I would assume in one of the eboxes under the hood. Also I would check trans harness and twist connector for corrosion and and the neutral safety switch. You can check that just by turning on the key and watching the gear indicator in the cluster as you shift through the gears.

[AquilaBMW]

How about those timing chain guides though? A 2003 540i is bound to have some issues with them at 204k miles.

Ya know.... I once had a car with 278K miles when I got it, and the PO and shop that worked on it for years swore it never had the chains or guides replaced. I will wait to see if they develop into a problem. First I have to get it running.


I would check the fuse block that has the five 30 amp fuses. I'm not sure where they are on the e39 but if it's like the e38 I would assume in one of the eboxes under the hood. Also I would check trans harness and twist connector for corrosion and and the neutral safety switch. You can check that just by turning on the key and watching the gear indicator in the cluster as you shift through the gears.

I actually did check that fuse block you mention and indeed found a blown fuse in there (see my update for details). There is some work to be done, not fun as I hate tracking down electrical issues - ugh! I will check the transmission harness you mention and that safety switch, though I doubt they are the culprit at this point.

- - - Updated - - -

So…. I had a full day with the car. First thing I checked was the battery. It registered 11.9v on the multi-meter which would be an issue to start the car in the first place. Not enough juice. I put it on a charger till I was above 12v. I still got no response from the car. It would not turn over, not even click to indicate a weak battery.

I had a spare battery in the garage with 12.3v on it and tried that – still nothing. I put the spare battery on a charger till it registered 12.9v. I once again tried starting the car and got no response at all.

At this point, I now plugged the car into my computer to scan it with INPA. I was unable to scan it – there was no connection. The scanner was not talking with the DME. I realized then there was some other issue going on.

I then checked all the fuses on the car. I replaced all the DME related fuses with new ones just to be sure in case there was bad contact somewhere or had a corroded fuse. Still no luck.

I then opened up the hood and opened up the E-Box to see if there was anything happening there. I replaced the AGS / EGS to see if that would make a difference – nada. As far as I know, these car don’t need to have the AGS programmed or coded, you can just replace them. Again, the car did not respond.

I then proceeded to check the little cream coloured box that houses the 5 30A fuses which I know supply power to the DME. I did not notice any blown fuses. However as I continued my investigation, I replaced the 30A fuses and replaced the fuse box as well. This time, I noticed that there was a burnt fuse. At first I wasn’t sure if I had missed seeing it and might have put a blown fuse in the box. With the battery at 12.9v, I then tried to start the car again. Sure enough, there was a pop! The first fuse in line had blown after being replaced. I replaced it again and this time had a friend try to start the car while I observed the fused. Sure enough – POP! It blew again.

With further testing, I was able to confirm that anytime the key was turned to Position II, the fuse would pop or blow. So…. I believe I may have found my culprit. The car has developed a short somewhere. At the moment, my suspicion is a bad ignition switch.

I wondered about coolant seeping up the wire, however the DME and the entire E-Box is bone dry and there is zero sign of any moisture in there or on the DME connectors. I will be checking the harness more intently another day to be sure there was no coolant leak. The cooling system was replaced about a month or so again, so who knows.

I am ruling out the transmission at this point. It was replaced last year, so I doubt it has already gone back. I also have a list of things that I am eliminating from the culprit list:

1. Transmission – Again, it is a recently replaced transmission.
2. Battery – I have a strong battery in there, so it should not be a factor
3. CPS – Even if the CPS was bad, the car should still crank, just not fire.
4. Fuses – there isn’t a single blown fuse in the car other than the one in the E-Box
5. Starter – no way to tell at this point as the car is not even trying to start at all.
6. Alternator – If it was dead, it should have drained the battery completely and the car would just have lost all power.

Can anyone think of anything else? My thinking is to first check the wiring harness in the engine bay, particularly from the thermostat to the E-Box to see if any coolant may have wicked up on it or see if there is damage somewhere.

Next, I will replace the ignition switch. Right now, that is my main suspect with this situation. I have reviewed the car’s records and it was very well maintained. Things like gaskets, cooling system, suspension and such were changed in the last year or so. I haven’t checked on timing chains and guides, but I am still going through the records so who knows what I will find.

I DEFINITELY don’t want to part this thing out. It is a great looking car with some very nice modifications on it and it certainly deserves to still spend more time on the road.

[vegaslightsss]

Which fuse keeps blowing out of those 5? That will tell you what circuits/harnesses to check. There is either corrosion, a short, or a faulty component somewhere that keeps blowing that fuse

[AquilaBMW]

Which fuse keeps blowing out of those 5? That will tell you what circuits/harnesses to check. There is either corrosion, a short, or a faulty component somewhere that keeps blowing that fuse

I concur with you there. I now how to figure out what is causing this situation. It is one of five fuses in that block that keeps blowing out. Since it occurs as soon as the key is turned to Position 2, I suspect the ignition switch at the moment.

Here is the fuse block:

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww171/ElaineBeemer/ElaineBeemer127/IMG_3035.jpg



Here is the one that keeps blowing:

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww171/ElaineBeemer/ElaineBeemer127/IMG_3042.jpg



Help me save this beauty:

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww171/ElaineBeemer/ElaineBeemer127/IMG_3038.jpg

[tmvE39E53Z32TT]

Help me save this beauty:

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww171/ElaineBeemer/ElaineBeemer127/IMG_3038.jpg

Sure. Ship it to me. I'll pay the shipping :D

[AquilaBMW]

Sure. Ship it to me. I'll pay the shipping :D

When do i get it back? LOL

[vegaslightsss]

Not sure if this applies to your year /engine software but it is for an e39 m62. This is what each fuse is for but not sure how accurate.

EF1 = 30A, MAF, Cam sensor #1, DME, T-Stat, Evap emission valve (some say it's 30A - DME, Injectors, SMG Hydraulic unit)
EF2 = 30A, Fuel injectors, Both Vanos solenoids, Cam sensor #2, SAS pump electrical valve (some say it's 30A - DME, Idle control valve, Fuel tank ventilation valve, Fuel pump)
EF3 = 20A, Cam sensors, MAF, Crank Sensor, Heated O2 sensors (some say it's 30A, others say 25A - E-box fan, Transmission RPM sensor, CPS, MAF sensor, Fuel pump relay, SAP relay, A/C Compressor relay, Fuel tank leakage diagnostic module, SMG selector lever)
EF4 = 30A, DME (some say it's 30A - Oxygen sensors and oxygen sensor heater circuits)
EF5 = 30A, Unloader relay, power to coils (some say it's 30A - Fuel injector relay)

[Plattus1000]

Look under the passenger seat, at the power distribution box under the carpet. Might be, water got down there. It caused my obd II port to fail and a list of other stuff until it dried and I sealed the rear doors again.

Or not.

Glad you're back in the game.

[MrDucky]

If it is going to be parted out i am intressted in the strut brace! but would be a shame if it has to be taken appart.
Hope you can fix it.

[tmvE39E53Z32TT]

When do i get it back? LOL
When I'm DONE with it :D

[AquilaBMW]

If it is going to be parted out i am intressted in the strut brace! but would be a shame if it has to be taken appart.
Hope you can fix it.

No plans to part it out anytime soon. Details coming. Cheers!


Not sure if this applies to your year /engine software but it is for an e39 m62. This is what each fuse is for but not sure how accurate.

EF1 = 30A, MAF, Cam sensor #1, DME, T-Stat, Evap emission valve (some say it's 30A - DME, Injectors, SMG Hydraulic unit)
EF2 = 30A, Fuel injectors, Both Vanos solenoids, Cam sensor #2, SAS pump electrical valve (some say it's 30A - DME, Idle control valve, Fuel tank ventilation valve, Fuel pump)
EF3 = 20A, Cam sensors, MAF, Crank Sensor, Heated O2 sensors (some say it's 30A, others say 25A - E-box fan, Transmission RPM sensor, CPS, MAF sensor, Fuel pump relay, SAP relay, A/C Compressor relay, Fuel tank leakage diagnostic module, SMG selector lever)
EF4 = 30A, DME (some say it's 30A - Oxygen sensors and oxygen sensor heater circuits)
EF5 = 30A, Unloader relay, power to coils (some say it's 30A - Fuel injector relay)

Thanks for this, very helpful information and was vital to my diagnostics and subsequent solution.


Look under the passenger seat, at the power distribution box under the carpet. Might be, water got down there. It caused my obd II port to fail and a list of other stuff until it dried and I sealed the rear doors again.

Or not.

Glad you're back in the game.

Thankfully it was not a water issue - at least for now. Chees. And yes, I think you can say I am back in the game... somewhat. :)

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww171/ElaineBeemer/ElaineBeemer128/IMG_3051.jpg

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww171/ElaineBeemer/ElaineBeemer128/IMG_3047.jpg



How is your project progressing? I've been peeking in.




When I'm DONE with it :D

Okay... Ya gotta pick one though. :)

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww171/ElaineBeemer/ElaineBeemer128/IMG_3052.jpg




- - - Updated - - -

The culprit...



http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww171/ElaineBeemer/ElaineBeemer129/IMG_3053.jpg

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww171/ElaineBeemer/ElaineBeemer129/IMG_3054.jpg

[tmvE39E53Z32TT]

So it's fixed? I'll take the IR M5 then :stickoutt

[E39 Expert]

Awesome. Are you gonna replace the whole thermostat assembly or just the sensor?

[auaq]

When did you get the red one?

[Msport540]

Time to brake out the multimeter and check ohms, im going to say its most likely a ground out.

[justinca540i]

I could always "hold-on" to the Imola if you run out of space.

[augustballer]

Awe man.. Mine had the same problem 3 days after I did my timing chain guides this summer. I was driving down 680 during peak commute hour and my car went into engine and trans failsafe. Temp shot straight to red. I would have said something but you never mentioned if you smelt anything burning from the engine bay (I did, burnt hair/wire smell) or anything about failsafe. I didn't read that you had any of these symptoms.. maybe I missed it. The same fuse was burnt in that cream colored fuse clip. I ended up splicing in a new connector and putting in a new thermostat assembly. Didn't have to take the whole water pump out. Haven't had any problems since.
Good to hear you have your problem figured out.

[BMW540san]

I switched to conventional thermostat on my 540 and X5 in order to avoid this exact problem.
You're lucky, could have been worse like this scenario:
http://www.meeknet.co.uk/E31/BMW_M62TU_Engine_Failsafe_Problems.htm
I'm happy with conventional 95 C thermostat on both of my cars:
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2038422-Philly98540-I-ve-installed-thermostat-and-it-works-well
http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/99242-spal-electric-fan-conversion-clutch-fan-delete-part-2-a.html

[NordmanMg]

Thermostat sensor can couse TFSP?!

[rahee006]

i'l take the BBK off your hands, it must be bothering you alot, i will also give you $800 for it. Lol

[AquilaBMW]

So it's fixed? I'll take the IR M5 then :stickoutt

HAH! :) Yes, it is fixed. Drove it home for the first time today. Car is pretty awesome. So.................... How long you need the IR M5 for?:evil2


Awesome. Are you gonna replace the whole thermostat assembly or just the sensor?

I replaced the whole thermostat assembly. I don't believe you can replace just the sensor and that is probably not worth it to be honest.


When did you get the red one?

A few days ago - need to fix it's running issues. Ever since you succeeded in invading the HO8, i've had to keep and extra set of cylinders handy. :D


Time to brake out the multimeter and check ohms, im going to say its most likely a ground out.

Actually it was the Thermostat switch. Fixed it now. Thanks.


I could always "hold-on" to the Imola if you run out of space.

You have to wait for Tam to return it. :evil2


Awe man.. Mine had the same problem 3 days after I did my timing chain guides this summer. I was driving down 680 during peak commute hour and my car went into engine and trans failsafe. Temp shot straight to red. I would have said something but you never mentioned if you smelt anything burning from the engine bay (I did, burnt hair/wire smell) or anything about failsafe. I didn't read that you had any of these symptoms.. maybe I missed it. The same fuse was burnt in that cream colored fuse clip. I ended up splicing in a new connector and putting in a new thermostat assembly. Didn't have to take the whole water pump out. Haven't had any problems since.
Good to hear you have your problem figured out.

No worries man. It actually happened with the PO just before I was to buy the car. I got it non-running and had to fix it. Glad I was able to figure it out with help from this board.


I switched to conventional thermostat on my 540 and X5 in order to avoid this exact problem.
You're lucky, could have been worse like this scenario:
http://www.meeknet.co.uk/E31/BMW_M62TU_Engine_Failsafe_Problems.htm
I'm happy with conventional 95 C thermostat on both of my cars:
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2038422-Philly98540-I-ve-installed-thermostat-and-it-works-well
http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/99242-spal-electric-fan-conversion-clutch-fan-delete-part-2-a.html

I am going to be looking into the conventional thermostat in the future. This crap sucks!


Thermostat sensor can couse TFSP?!

Yessir! If the thermostat switch or connector shorts out, it can blow DME fuse which also powers the AGS for the transmission. When this happens, the TFSP will occur.



---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I decided to purchase an OEM thermostat and installed it today. I preferred to not drive it without one.

I was able to install the thermostat and it seems I was able to accomplish this without having any leaks. I drove the car home today for the first time, what an amazing car. It's the fastest M62TU I have driven. I did install a DINAN AGS so I know the shifting is improved, but this thing is like bat out of hell from the line. I'd dare say it would out accelerate my M5 off the line - I kid you not. I am going to have to find out if it is a Stage V Dinan or what differential it has. It's faster than my former full spec 1999 DINAN 5.

It has an annoying vibration around 65 MPH which does not abate with increased speed. It seems to be concentrated on the right wheel area - I am suspecting wheel balancing or tire issue. 19" and larger wheels are very susceptible to balance issues. There also seems to be a low speed rumble which I am hoping is not the wheel bearings. All in all, I am thrilled with the acquisition.

The Bilstein shocks are SUPER firm! On a smooth road they are fine, but on your average road, they rattle you pretty good. They will be ditched in favour of an Eibach suspension set. While the brakes are phenomenal, the pedal feel is lacking a bit. Not what I would expect from $6K brakes at all. The car also has steel braided brake lines. I will be under the car again to see what else there is under there. I am pretty sure that is not a stock 3.15 diff.

Thanks again for all the help guys - you rock!



Brand new OEM Thermostat:

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww171/ElaineBeemer/ElaineBeemer130/IMG_3057.jpg



The oold one is off. It was nice to see they had been using BMW Coolant:

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww171/ElaineBeemer/ElaineBeemer130/IMG_3060.jpg


new one installed and sealed:


http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww171/ElaineBeemer/ElaineBeemer130/IMG_3061.jpg



After cleaning the engine to get rid of the spilled coolant. I topped it off and buttong everything back. I forgot to bleed it and so I got the LOW COOLANT warning. I shut it off to cool it down then bled it and fillit up with coolant. It was good to go. Made it home without any fuss, except a burnt low beam light. Ugh! LOL!

[auaq]

Somebody should start spying on Aquila .... where does he find such cars????

[NordmanMg]

Somebody should start spying on Aquila .... where does he find such cars????

Use this to watch him and you will never miss the deal lol

http://ljplus.ru/img4/b/o/bobbasset/watcher-1.jpg

[AquilaBMW]

Use this to watch him and you will never miss the deal lol

http://ljplus.ru/img4/b/o/bobbasset/watcher-1.jpg


Dammit Nord - You gave away my secret!!!!

[BMW540san]

You're using rtv instead of new o ring to seal the thermostat housing? If so, you're asking for a leak. if you reused your old o ring and added rtv around, that's not such a good idea either.

[NordmanMg]

All thermostats have o-ring on them, I never had new OE thermostat without O-ring on it already in place

[AquilaBMW]

You're using rtv instead of new o ring to seal the thermostat housing? If so, you're asking for a leak. if you reused your old o ring and added rtv around, that's not such a good idea either.


All thermostats have o-ring on them, I never had new OE thermostat without O-ring on it already in place

To answer both posts, the RTV was only used sparsely around the bolt holes. The new thermostat did indeed come with a new O ring.

[RVAE34]

Outstanding outcome!

[tmvE39E53Z32TT]

You can at least double your investment in that car now, Mike.

[AquilaBMW]

Outstanding outcome!

Thanks B! Car is kind of a beast I tell you. I swear it would take my M5 off the line. The BBK is nice, but I am not 100% thrilled with the pedal feel. I might replace the pads down the line to see if that helps with the sharpness.


You can at least double your investment in that car now, Mike.

I could, but this is going to be my DD for as long as it last. I kinda like the thing.

[RVAE34]

I had heard the stop tech pedal feel is a little hard to get used to. And I can see hot spots on them. Not sure if that translates to any vibration for you. I bought this tool which was awesome for removing the hotspots on my Brembo GT kit.

http://www.amazon.com/Brush-Research-Flex-Hone-For-Rotors/dp/B007SOW0WC

[BMW540san]

To answer both posts, the RTV was only used sparsely around the bolt holes. The new thermostat did indeed come with a new O ring.

I see. Not to sound like a smart *** but there is no need for rtv when you have o ring. Actually, it's more likely to leak since the design requires for o ring to slightly crush which creates even seal. With rtv, you might not be getting even seal.

[blarf]

I could, but this is going to be my DD for as long as it last. I kinda like the thing.

What happened with the 740? :confused

[AquilaBMW]

I had heard the stop tech pedal feel is a little hard to get used to. And I can see hot spots on them. Not sure if that translates to any vibration for you. I bought this tool which was awesome for removing the hotspots on my Brembo GT kit.

http://www.amazon.com/Brush-Research-Flex-Hone-For-Rotors/dp/B007SOW0WC

I am actually not getting any vibrations from the brakes themselves. The only vibration I am experiencing is from the tires and the stiff suspension. I noticed the front tires were cupped on the inside. I am guessing the car has been literally skipping over bumps and such due to stiffness of the suspension. I did rotate the wheels front to back.

I also replaced the Bilstein front strut assemblies with an Eibach Pro-Damper kit I have in the garage. It helped the ride a lot, the car was actually more compliant over bumps.

https://post.craigslist.org/imagepreview/00202_7pHWoNwsw5y_600x450.jpghttps://post.craigslist.org/imagepreview/00404_7ETwGt0leyf_600x450.jpg



As far as brakes, I am not too thrilled / impressed with the brake feel. I guess i expected more immediate bite from them, especially considering the brakes, the size and the fact they have still braided lines too. The brakes were recently serviced by the PO, so no hot spots that I can see - not sure if I would be able to spot them to be honest. I saw your previous post about that tool, thanks for the reminder.

The juicy StopTech Brakes:

Front:

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww171/ElaineBeemer/ElaineBeemer131/IMG_3067.jpg

The Rear rakes:

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww171/ElaineBeemer/ElaineBeemer134/IMG_3086.jpg




I see. Not to sound like a smart *** but there is no need for rtv when you have o ring. Actually, it's more likely to leak since the design requires for o ring to slightly crush which creates even seal. With rtv, you might not be getting even seal.

No worries man. I appreciate your comments. I am currently getting a CHECK COOLANT warning, happened twice today. When I first checked, it seemed like a faulty coolant bottle float or sensor. I will be checking on my thermostat though - just to be sure it's not leaking. Your words may yet prove prophetic - ugh!


What happened with the 740? :confused

The IR 740 is chilling with a buddy. :D

[Plattus1000]

Very happy to see you didn't give up. I likes your whips! Don't tell the touring guys but I kind of miss my sedan at times, rarely but there are times.
The assumption that you're faster off the line is interesting. I suggest a drag race !!!

[justinca540i]

Wow the E38 looks good in Imola.

[AquilaBMW]

Found a nice spot for the Hood Emblem that was replaced... :)

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww171/ElaineBeemer/ElaineBeemer132/IMG_3062.jpg

- - - Updated - - -


Very happy to see you didn't give up. I likes your whips! Don't tell the touring guys but I kind of miss my sedan at times, rarely but there are times.
The assumption that you're faster off the line is interesting. I suggest a drag race !!!

HAH! I might have to do a drag race, just need someone to drive one of the cars:D


Wow the E38 looks good in Imola.

Thanks man!

[RVAE34]

Curious what type of pads are on those as well. Might have something to do with the feel. They look great! Also, I don't see the hotspots in those photos but thought I spotted them in an earlier post.

[AquilaBMW]

Not sure what brands are in there. Guess I'll just use them till they are worn. They stop the car well, just not enough bite for me. Almost feel like cool ceramic brakes.

[NordmanMg]

Brake pads themselves might be burnt as well

[AquilaBMW]

Brake pads themselves might be burnt as well

Does that happen?

[blarf]

How does the piston area of the stoptech calipers compare to stock? If there's more piston area and the master cylinder hasn't been changed, pedal feel is going to suck.

[AquilaBMW]

How does the piston area of the stoptech calipers compare to stock? If there's more piston area and the master cylinder hasn't been changed, pedal feel is going to suck.

I wish I could answer that question, I really don't know. I am no expert on brakes to that extent. I have heard of this issue with BBKs though. Something about the stock master not being able to fully cope with the higher capacity required of the BBKs, especially with a full set of 4.

[philly98540]

I'd check what pads are in there. It's really easy since you can slide them right out without removing the caliper. I bet they are low dust hard as stone pads with not good bite.

[AquilaBMW]

I'd check what pads are in there. It's really easy since you can slide them right out without removing the caliper. I bet they are low dust hard as stone pads with not good bite.

I can do that ?!?! Tell me how, please. I have to go check out the brakes again. I thought the caliper always has to come off.

[auaq]

There should be some kind of pins that you have to remove by first removing the clips at inner side of the caliper. Once you have the little clips out you should be able to slide those pins out of the caliper. You should then be able to pull/slide the pads straight out.

[AquilaBMW]

There should be some kind of pins that you have to remove by first removing the clips at inner side of the caliper. Once you have the little clips out you should be able to slide those pins out of the caliper. You should then be able to pull/slide the pads straight out.

Hmmm..... Gonna check that out tomorrow. Thanks!

[blarf]

I can do that ?!?! Tell me how, please. I have to go check out the brakes again. I thought the caliper always has to come off.

Sliding calipers, yes. Fixed ones like that, no. Take a look to see what's running through the top of the pads. Looks like it may be those two allen screws you can see in the pic.

[AquilaBMW]

Sliding calipers, yes. Fixed ones like that, no. Take a look to see what's running through the top of the pads. Looks like it may be those two allen screws you can see in the pic.

I'll check them later this week, actually maybe by the weekend. Need to do some other stuff first. I need that Silver parts car OUT of the Toy Store pronto!

In other news, I re-bled and refilled the coolant again yesterday. Then I went on a 600 Mile round-trip / secret mission. Car performed fine. I have a sneaky suspicion the trans is on its way out in the not to distant future or that a Non-Sport TU model transmission was installed on the car.

[AquilaBMW]

Installed E38 Sports Contour seats today.... I am happier :)

[NordmanMg]

Installed E38 Sports Contour seats today.... I am happier :)

Sweet upgrade

[AquilaBMW]

Sweet upgrade

They are such awesome seats.

[Flounderasu]

Found a nice spot for the Hood Emblem that was replaced... :)

Funny lookin trashcan :devillook

[AquilaBMW]

Little bit of success today, replaced the AGS and Steptronic is back in action. Car idles real low, almost to the point where it seems it is about too quit. Wondering if that might be MAF?

[AquilaBMW]

Making progress bit by little bit... checked the tyre pressures today. Decided to even them all out and that helped the slight vibration significantly - like duh! Should I don that first.

Putting a few accents on her here and there. Decided to snap a couple of pics today, just thought I'd share....

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww171/ElaineBeemer/ElaineBeemer137/IMG_3136.jpg

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww171/ElaineBeemer/ElaineBeemer137/FullSizeRender-31.jpg

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww171/ElaineBeemer/ElaineBeemer137/IMG_3131.jpg

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww171/ElaineBeemer/ElaineBeemer137/IMG_3143.jpg

[JimLev]

Look good......need lowering.
Nice wheels.

[gmak]

Looking good. One minor comment, if I may... The black BMW logo on the hood doesn't show well. Must just be the picture and the height. I'll bet it looks great in person. Where do you find all these cars (guess the luck is really having all that space so that you can grab one when you see it)?

[NordmanMg]

Car look fantastic, and those 19-m-pars, lovely

[AquilaBMW]

Look good......need lowering.
Nice wheels.

Thanks Man. The car is actually lowered - at the moment it is on Eibach Springs and Struts up front, the rear still has the H&R Springs and Bilstein shocks. It sits about 1.8" lower than stock or something like that. Maybe the 19" make it look like it sits higher. If you look at the rear, you will see a slight tuck - PO actually had to have the rear fenders rolled.


Looking good. One minor comment, if I may... The black BMW logo on the hood doesn't show well. Must just be the picture and the height. I'll bet it looks great in person. Where do you find all these cars (guess the luck is really having all that space so that you can grab one when you see it)?

I hear ya on the Black emblems. It looks a lot better in person though :) To be honest, I don't think there is a method to my madness in finding cars, I win some and loose some. I am constantly prowling though - so maybe that plays a part.


Car look fantastic, and those 19-m-pars, lovely

Thanks Norm.

[Aryana]

Looking good!

[AquilaBMW]

Looking good!

Thanks Buddy! We need to do another canyon run soon.

[tmvE39E53Z32TT]

http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww171/ElaineBeemer/ElaineBeemer137/IMG_3131.jpg


Someone didn't follow instruction when putting the badge on.

[AquilaBMW]

So... this car is back in the stable, with a bit of a story. I need some of your help sorting her out.

At the moment, the car has badly leaking VCGs, they are so bad there is a healthy amount of smoke on the Passenger side when the car sits for a couple of days or more. You can smell the burning oil from the valve covers.

Also, the Power Steering is leaking like a sieve - it leaks about 1/2 a P/S reservoir every two days, I kid you not! Going to have to sort that out pretty soon.

Car runs, drives, etc. Some months ago, the initial engine literally blew up and I helped the owner at the time find a donor car. It was another 540i that had about 10K miles on a recently re-built engine with the chains and guides done.

The engine was healthy when we found it. At the moment, the car is doing something weird. The car will not idle at lower than about 1000 - 1100 RPMs. It idles that fast loudly. Today on a drive, I monitored the temps and it did not get above 110° as read from the KTMP reading from the cluster.

Anyone have any ideas what would cause an M62TU to idle this high? There is no way to adjust the idle speed on the M62TU so I am a bit lost here. Could be a vacuum leak? Badly sealed Valve Covers causing an air leak?

The car has DINAN Tuning as well as CAI, TB and MAF on it.

[dannyzabolotny]

High idle makes me think it's a bad vacuum leak. A quick way to check is by spraying starter fluid around the engine and seeing if the idle fluctuates. It's kind of a dirty way to check but it usually works. Also, try unplugging the MAF and seeing if that makes a difference.

Check for codes— vacuum leaks and poor fuel trims will often throw shadow codes that may not immediately trigger a CEL.

Also, how does one literally blow up an M62tu? I'm curious.

[AquilaBMW]

High idle makes me think it's a bad vacuum leak. A quick way to check is by spraying starter fluid around the engine and seeing if the idle fluctuates. It's kind of a dirty way to check but it usually works. Also, try unplugging the MAF and seeing if that makes a difference.

Check for codes— vacuum leaks and poor fuel trims will often throw shadow codes that may not immediately trigger a CEL.

Also, how does one literally blow up an M62tu? I'm curious.

Thanks for the ideas Danny. Maybe I'll just run some propane around the engine to see if there are any fluctuations to the idle. I don't want to unplug the MAF just yet as that might trigger the SEL light - but it should go out once that is resolved if that is the problem. I'm also going to check the TB just to see if it is working properly.

It's going to be a diagnostic journey, that's for sure.

- - - Updated - - -


Also, how does one literally blow up an M62tu? I'm curious.

Not quite sure how that happened. I believe the car over heated at one point and the water pump was replaced. Apparently, the car was driving up a hill in the city and the engine quite literally took a dump off a Green Light. I am wondering if the previous over heating compromised some components

[AquilaBMW]

Weird to read this thread again.... this car just came back to me - AGAIN! Amazingly enough, that darn power steering leak was never fixed.... and it still leaks like a sieve. Sadly though, the car now runs like crap, it now has 233K miles on it. Suspension is shot - rides like a horse chariot. Or maybe it's just the Bilsteins still on it.

The body is still in amazingly good shape, but the drivetrain I fear is on it's way out. Had flashing SES and now steady SES on last drive. Car also now has 55 Shimmy real bad. It needs work and sadly, I am not in a position to put the work in - time and cost just don't add up for me.

While I know it's probably not the most appealing option, I believe I will be parting this thing out in the future and using it to build / restore the AW M-Sport and turn that into a Signature DINAN car.