Turbo?

[smashervt]

Hey so I am planning to Turbocharge my m30b32 633csi. Was thinking of getting this kit? http://turbochargingdynamics.com/?wpsc-product=m30-stage-1-kit

What do you guys think? Is it worth it and is there any thing I should do to my car before thinking of turbocharging it? I want to get a paint job but I would rather have performance and make my car look like a sleeper.

[alpinacsi]

http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=136543

[dcains]

On such a nigh mileage car?

[smashervt]

Yea my engine only got 100 000 miles on it so id rather turbo it then get a new engine.

[Shipper]

Lovely kit, TCD are the people to go to.

[dcains]

Yea my engine only got 100 000 miles on it so id rather turbo it then get a new engine.

I think you totally missed my point. 100K, even on an M30 motor, is not necessarily a good candidate for forced induction. At least do a compression and leakdown test, and check bearing clearances, before spending any $ on a turbo system.

[smashervt]

Well $1500 is a good deal for a engine and already turboed but my issue is that is says he is from Seattle. Which I would not mind shipping it to a local drop off place in the US and driving accross the border to pick it up. But not sure how to transport that. Ugh man I am tempted. Would be better then my m30b32.

[tschultz]

How much are you really willing to spend and willing to tinker?

[IB635]

I think you're looking at $1500 as a base to rebuild. Add $$$ to that $1500, if you don't have building skills, add $$$$...

[Shipper]

Well $1500 is a good deal for a engine and already turboed but my issue is that is says he is from Seattle. Which I would not mind shipping it to a local drop off place in the US and driving across the border to pick it up. But not sure how to transport that. Ugh man I am tempted. Would be better then my m30b32.

grow some balls. My S38B38 was in Iceland. I shipped it to a northern UK port, trucked it to a southern UK port, shipped it to Sydney Australia, trucked it to a a depot, trucked it from the depot to Melbourne, drove my 633CSi to Melbourne (1100km) spend 18 months getting it put in, mechanic goes belly up so I truck the car another 120km to Dromana, get engine finished off. No distance is too far if you really want it. And my engine cost me $11k landed.

Call a freight company and make it happen. If there's one thing I have learnt playing with BMW's is that good engines only come along every 5 or so years. If you want this engine, it can be in your driveway in no time. It's finished, ready to go and probably runs 280hp plus. What's not to like????

If picking it up from a driveway is too hard, pay someone to pick and crate. Then ship. Simples.

[smashervt]

Well i have balls thank you very much but im 19 and do not have as much money as i also have a daily i pay for $260 for lease and $500 for insurance per month as a student.

[Shipper]

ah, the dreaded no cash option.

as a student, you are either going to need good mechanic skills and the ability to work on the car yourself or you are going to need to really save, which as a student is as hard as hell. I believe your options are more than likely;

1. save heaps for as long as possible. The turbo engine will more than likely no longer be available for sale by time you have saved up.
2. commit to a road trip this Xmas, with trailer, pay the $1.5k asking price and drive down and pick it up. Gees, how many weeks would that take? Post picking it up, get it ready, save some more, and then put it in the car for summer.
3. save even more and spend the $7.5k plus to turbo your own motor.

$1.5k for a good turbo motor is a good buy (assuming in condition as described). It will cost you far more to build your own. Expect $7.5k to $10k to turbo your own engine. Costs easily blow out when you are rebuilding an engine and turbo'ing them.

Yes I'm positive you have balls. Taking on study plus a 6'er rebuild at 19 is a good effort. Now just grab a mate, hire a car and trailer and do that road trip.

wait wait wait, you pay $500pm for car insurance? $6kpa????? wooooooowzzas!!!! And you want to take on a 6'er turbo build. You must really love that 6'er. again "road trip, road trip", how much fun would that be?

[IB635]

Just my .02 cents, spend the money fixing what ya got. If you're looking for lots more speed, there are other cars out there that will be a lot less work on a budget and start off faster. Not knocking the coolness factor of a six, but from a practical point of view from someone who's 43 and been fixing up stuff since 15, unless you've got cash to follow through on stuff that is going to be a lot of cash (several thousand still on my credit card from my last engine build..), you might want to revise your goals a little closer to home.. That said, if that's what you're set on, build up your tool box and F-ing go for it..

[alpinacsi]

Hey so I am planning to Turbocharge my m30b32 633csi. Was thinking of getting this kit? http://turbochargingdynamics.com/?wpsc-product=m30-stage-1-kit

So you are thinking about a $4000 kit but a $1500 kit with motor is out of the budget?

[smashervt]

Yea insurance rates here suck. Im lucky to even have classic car insurance since im under 24 in Ontario. I'd love to do a turbo engine build but I have honestly never been in the US in my life. I'd love to go on a road trip but it would have to be in april. Im still thinking of what to do with the car. Make it a show car with air suspension and clean classic look or make it a sleeping beast of destruction. Guess for now Ill have to steer towards finishing the interior as I got my paint in the mail.

[Shipper]

Sleeping beast of destruction... sleeping beast of destruction!!!!!

557941

557942


557943

[9mil]

Hey so I am planning to Turbocharge my m30b32 633csi. Was thinking of getting this kit? http://turbochargingdynamics.com/?wpsc-product=m30-stage-1-kit

What do you guys think? Is it worth it and is there any thing I should do to my car before thinking of turbocharging it? I want to get a paint job but I would rather have performance and make my car look like a sleeper.


If youre going to turbo it, use TCD- you will end up spending that much money anyway- trust me. And his kit will bolt on and you will be running within the weekend. Not the 4 years I have been screwing with it. The M30 is a tank, don't go crazy with boost and you'll be fine. Add MLS head gasket and studs if you get the head redone and turn the boost up. These aren't temperamental engines- unless you have a >350ish at the rear wheel goal.
so- let's say you blow it up, there isn't really a cheaper motor out there to replace as a lump or just replace parts and rebuild- good experience.

Good luck - Todd is a great resource too, if you buy it from him- you get his support and that beats any forum of na-Sayers anytime.

go over the mye28 forced induction and check out the mileage on some of these lumps!

[smashervt]

If youre going to turbo it, use TCD- you will end up spending that much money anyway- trust me. And his kit will bolt on and you will be running within the weekend. Not the 4 years I have been screwing with it. The M30 is a tank, don't go crazy with boost and you'll be fine. Add MLS head gasket and studs if you get the head redone and turn the boost up. These aren't temperamental engines- unless you have a >350ish at the rear wheel goal.
so- let's say you blow it up, there isn't really a cheaper motor out there to replace as a lump or just replace parts and rebuild- good experience.

Good luck - Todd is a great resource too, if you buy it from him- you get his support and that beats any forum of na-Sayers anytime.

go over the mye28 forced induction and check out the mileage on some of these lumps!


Yea I was looking at the TCD kits. I did not want anything too crazy just up to 300 or so at the wheels. I am going to do the cylinder tests and pressure tests although the engine runs really well. Just I have the original radiator which I should really replace as any coolant i flush and put it comes back dirty and brown. I just hope its not any oil leaking into the cooling.

- - - Updated - - -

Speaking of radiators, Does anyone know a good place where I can get a good radiator replacement? Im looking at a few sites and they don't have any for sale.

[alpinacsi]

Speaking of radiators, Does anyone know a good place where I can get a good radiator replacement? Im looking at a few sites and they don't have any for sale.

Autohausaz, Pelican, ECS, FCPEuro, BavAuto, RockAuto and many others. Starting at about $150 so you have many choices. These are some of the standard go to places: where have you checked?

[smashervt]

I checked ecs and fcp. Didnt see any radiators

[9mil]

I checked ecs and fcp. Didnt see any radiators

I have been thinking of trying a summit racing universal aluminum unit to up capacity a bit. the stock one works, but I like overdoing everything and I live in the south- it gets real hot 'round these parts

[alpinacsi]

I checked ecs and fcp. Didnt see any radiators


https://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/633CSi/Radiator?year=1983&e=185&m=20&page=1

[smashervt]

Thanks Alpina. I was on my phone and it did not show it for some reason. On my pc now and I see it. Hopefully replacing the old radiator will fix the brown coolant. My engine looks clean no coolant in the oil so I really hope its not a head gasket.

[1986series6]

I would do a test to see what's brown in the cooling system.
A radiator on its own will not turn coolant brown.
Oil or rust will, so if the rdaiator flow is good, no need to change it.

Do a serious flush and fill with water only.

If it turns color and level rises, a pressure test of the cooling system is needed to determine if oil pressure is adding to the system.

I guess there could be gobbs of rust in the block, but a very serious flush should solve that problem.

Hope this helps. My thoughts anyway. That's what I would do If I had your problem.

[dcains]

I have been thinking of trying a summit racing universal aluminum unit to up capacity a bit. the stock one works, but I like overdoing everything and I live in the south- it gets real hot 'round these parts

Here you are:

http://wizardcooling.com/1977-88-bmw-e24-custom-aluminum-radiator/

[Shipper]

Try an E34 540 radiator. Additionally, run an oil cooler. Generally, M30's do not run hot but later models ran oil coolers for additional cooling. I've got an oil cooler and 540 radiator on my S38B38 to handle the higher performance.

The Alpina B7's ran a sump that had an additional litre capacity and an oil cooler. Makes sense to copy this as 300RWHP is around 365hp at the flywheel, 35hp more than Alpina's best.

[smashervt]

I noticed a oil leak from the head gasket right between the plugs and the intake. Uhh where the timing chain is. The coolant itself is not milky like I see in the online pictures but like a bit darker then milky. And the consistency of the coolant is not sludge or anything. Same consistency. And will a the radiator from an e34 directly fit or would I have to do modifications for it to fit?

[alpinacsi]

Just spend the $150 a get a new correct radiator from autohausaz which included free shipping and be done with it. Not sure where you're talking about the leak as the plugs and intake are opposite sides of the engine but, if you have a leak: get it fixed. Not really sure that you need to be concerned with a turbo at this point but it does sound like you really need to take care of some basic issues soon.

[Shipper]

A bigger radiator will require a little modification but not much. Best bet is to pick one up from a wreckers cheap and fit. Then buy a new item knowing all is ready. Pretty much it is just the clamps holding the radiator in place as I believe the 540i radiator is thicker.

An oil cooler will make a big difference. Oil galleries run next to the water galleries in your block and as such heat up and have the potential to carry heat away. By taking the heat from the oil you significantly increase cooling capacity. If you do not have an oil cooler, this should be your first bet. Very easy to install. Swap oil filter canister for oil cooler version, attach oil radiator to front of car, hook up lines, ensure oil to top of dip stick line, run engine, check dip stick, place more oil to suit as radiator and lines will fill reducing sump oil level a little.

[smashervt]

I was thinking of doing a turbo not now but after I fix the issues. The leak is beside the intake plastic thing that goes into the headlights. Ive heard of some thing called Blue devil gasket sealer and it works. As I know 100% I can't take apart the engine to replace that gasket and paying the garage is too much. I can do more things with the car then I did 4 months ago so In due time. Im going to check out the oil cooler and see how to do it as That sounds like a good idea.

Edit: Where is the oil filter canister located?

[dcains]

If you have oil dripping from the air filter housing, gasket sealer isn't going to help. If you can't take things apart to even find the source, slathering sealer on the engine isn't the solution.

[alpinacsi]

The Alpina B7's ran a sump that had an additional litre capacity and an oil cooler. Makes sense to copy this as 300RWHP is around 365hp at the flywheel, 35hp more than Alpina's best.


The B7 used the factory stock oil cooler as was found on the euro 635 and the US and euro m cars. Also used the stock oil pan without an additional sump. Additional capacity was due to the lines and cooler. The setup from a US M6 can be added to the US models but the euro coolers would require the lines to be modified to clear the US bumper supports.

The Alpina models also used the factory radiators which were sufficient even with the additional demands.

I still feel that these mods are out of the realm that the OP is currently capable of. With the recent suggested use of blue devil gasket sealer: it only furthers my basis for this conclusion. It does not hurt to dream but he has a long way to go before any of these suggestions should be tackled. There is no need for us to complicate things by making suggestions that will only confuse and divert attention from the actual maintenance items that should be corrected first. First things first: learn what and where the oil canister is so even a simple oil change can be completed.

[Shipper]

Agreed. It sounds like the engine needs some serious love prior to looking at any performance upgrades.

[smashervt]

I found the canister. :). I know I am new to all this. Before 4 months ago I never owned an old car as my first car is a 2015 2.slow jetta with enough room to fit myself in the engine bay. Ive done a few things like replacing the fuel rail and its injectors as well as the thermostat and its housing except actually removing the original one because it would not come off. Also the oil is not leaking from the air filter. Here is where it is leaking. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWW75MGqaRM

[dcains]

That's the power steering pump. Could be the pump,itself, or one of the hoses. You need to get it clean first, and then ok for fresh fluid leaks.

[smashervt]

How would you recommend cleaning it? De greaser or something like that and power wash that or Try wiping it while being underneath the car or something?

[dcains]

I like Simple Green, but any degreaser will do, and you may want to use an old paint brush to help get it into all the small areas. Rinse with water and don't get the distributor or plug wires wet.

[smashervt]

Thanks man! I think I might have some engine degreaser at home. Any since my mom paints I have plenty of brushes to choose from. I also have a oil pan leak or something but it looks so old it may as well be older than me. Which I will probably just leave as it might be holding the leak. I guess I have got a night full of cleaning the engine bay and finish painting my glove box.

[bkats]

I think you might want to buy a Bentley manual.

[smashervt]

I think you might want to buy a Bentley manual.

I have been using the online versions of them. They get confusing at times

[bkats]

I have been using the online versions of them. They get confusing at times

You're going to want a hard copy. If you can't identify a PS pump, you need a physical reference you can take out to the car while you look at things. You are missing some basic mechanical diagnostic skill/knowledge. Increasing your vocabulary and learning how different systems work should be a priority, and having the manual will help with both. Otherwise, you are just stabbing blind at every leak. Moreover, if you can't properly identify parts/problems, it makes it harder for us to help you. Every time you come here, it is going to take 25 posts to find out what's wrong and how to help you fix it.

e.g. it will be infinitely superior to come out of this repair knowing precisely how the PS system works, rather than just knowing how to replace a PS hose (of unknown purpose).

[Sansouci]

Not to be a buzz kill. Spend your money on books and tuition and your time studying. Boring I know. But good effort now will allow you to afford better stuff later. Ask me how I know.
--Ken

[Shipper]

hmm...... Ken, do you know from good experience or bad experience? Or like most of us.... both?

[smashervt]

Ive went to college for computer system tech but left for it was boring and pay would have been $40k a year. I cant find anything worth doing as i like working on my car but wont be a mechanic. I have been working in famuly business for a while as i am a pretty good salesman and i sell cars at the top VW dealership in my province. As for now i just cant seem to have a will to learn something i dont want. And business programs are a waste of money. I have learned more by studying online and reading books without any professor to bore me in class.