RPM's stick for a moment like as if the transmission was slipping.

[Matt Kahle]

Good evening all,

I am experiencing problems with RPM control in my car. (I have the standard transmission) I first notes this last night when I had my car in forth gear and I was pushing 3.5 RPM's I was trying to increase speed the speed of the car while still in forth, and it seems that the "RPMs" stick for a moment then they rise, Its kinda like when you have an auto transmission and the transmission is slipping from gear-to-gear. Now tonight this is happening in every gear from 3ed on up. This has never happened before until now. I should also add that the idle limiter when i start up the car will sometimes idle right on that limit or a little above, but in the last two weeks i find here and there that the idle will be a little below the limiter.....I'm not sure that this has anything to do with my main problem but it might be a part of it. I was wondering if this could be a fuel pump problem, or maybe computer problem? I just want to address this problem before i find my self on the side of the road with a dead car lol.

[shwy]

Sounds to me like the clutch is worn. Especially if it is getting progressively worse. What mileage has the car covered?

Edit:
Maybe I misunderstood. Applying power from a given speed and nothing happens for a short time and then it accelerates normally, is that what your describing?
Has the idle control valve ever been cleaned?

[Matt Kahle]

The car has around 173000, the clutch was replaced 20,000 miles ago I was told......this problem happens after I'm in gear, I can be in gear for 10 seconds then try to speed up, and the problem still happens. What I should say is, it happens when I accelerate hard. As you stated above, "Applying power from a given speed and nothing happens for a short time and then it accelerates normally, is that what your describing"Yes that is what is happening, I did not clear the idle control valve, as I only have owned the car for the last three months. Well the car shifts just fine, I think it shifts really great compared to hearing how people whine about this transmission sucking in the cold weather.

[Matt Kahle]

So, I'm imagining that this won't be the replace the fluid fix? Okay, now after a little time has passed, I think this problem is getting a bit worse. So Shwy, I believe you might be correct about a failure in the clutching system, or at least the disengaging system in the transmission. So does this mean I have to rebuild the whole clutch system?

[Flounderasu]

Clutch is on it's way out...

[Matt Kahle]

Is there any particular clutch brand I should buy, and should I get a whole kit or just the clutch.

[Flounderasu]

LUK clutch kit and LUK FW are going to be your cheapest OEM options.

While you're in there you might want to do your RMS and coolant plate directly above the RMS.

Oh, and Guibo, trans mounts, shifter linkages, CSB...

[Matt Kahle]

My question is, is LUK the best being the cheapest? I found this from another post
http://www.amazon.com/LuK-03-042-Clutch-Set/dp/B000CICYRC/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1416628245&sr=&tag=viglink20399-20


But I did find a kit, but I don't know what the brand of the clutch is.

http://www.bavauto.com/fland.asppart=CK%20E39%20540&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=CKE39540-540I-1997-155969&gclid=CL6Jv42kuckCFQsWHwod2e8EIA


I want to rebuild every thing inside whiles its apart, Yes I want to stay cheap, but get the best OEM parts, not something that will break in the next 20,000. Also is there a good link to the process of the full rebuild, including the rear main seal?

[Flounderasu]

Reason I said go with M5 was it's slightly beefier. But the FW MUST be for a 540i. For whatever reason the 540i clutch is slightly more expensive...plenty of people running LUK clutch and Fw's here and on M5board.
I have 25k ish on my LUK setup.

You'll need this too:
http://www.amazon.com/LuK-DMF020-Clutch-Flywheel/dp/B000CIAWJ4/ref=pd_sim_263_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=51qdkrpK5bL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0MVC337A2EPY5MB9QHH4

Rear main seal - it's pretty straightforward - I bought the entire Assy with carrier rather than popping out the gasket only. You could save some $ buying just the seal.
Coolant plate - straight forward. It's a $7 gasket maybe?

Check the DIY sticky links at the top - I think there was a clutch DIY in there.

[Matt Kahle]

Do I need to buy a new FW? I was going to have it resurfaced. So I can buy M5 clutch and pressure plate? Sorry for all these questions, as mush as I love this car, I am no expert, PS first "car" not being an SUV with auto.

[Flounderasu]

Depends - these are dual mass FW's. There are internal springs. You could check to see how much play you have but not sure on the spec - and not sure if it's ever been answered. To me, I didn't want to do the job twice because it went kaboom. Plenty of people have just changed the clutch and didn't replace the FW <shrug>.

Also - call around as not everyone can/will resurface a DM FW. I have my 103k mi one sitting in my shed as I was going to have it resurfaced at some point.