Jesus bolt and tool

[Tutti57]

I'm doing the chain, guides, and vanos seals right now and the crank lock tool just came in today. I already have the cams locked and the pin is in the flywheel at tdc, but this tool is not oriented in a way that is close to touching the ground.

My plan is to pull the flywheel pin and rotate the crank so that the tool is touching the floor. Then break the bold loose and move the crank back to tdc to insert the pin.

The chains chains are not on the motor now so this seems like the way to go unless I'm missing something?

[dannyzabolotny]

Theoretically if you remember how far you rotate your crank you should be fine once you put it back to how it was. Mark it in some way so that you can keep track of how much you've rotated it. Word of warning though, there are two ways to be in TDC, so make sure you're very careful to return to the exact same TDC you were at before removing the locking pin.

[rdl]

Aren't these interference engines, i.e. piston will contact valves if cams are not synchronized correctly with the crankshaft. Rotating the crankshaft more than a few degrees with the cams immobilized will bend valves. Even if you can get the tool in position without piston/valve contact I suspect the jump when the bolt breaks loose might well bent them anyway.

[topaz540i]

i put a block of wood between the frame and tool. If I remember correctly it was on the drivers side near some lines that you have to be careful not to crush.

[E39 Expert]

I have used the ground successfully but i remember that i didnt lock the crank and used the tool

[vinyldude]

Normally, the correct way to remove the bolt with the crank support tool is when the crank lock bolt and the cam blocks are not in place.
In your case, it becomes tricky now since you don't have the chains on.
If you move the crank without the cams moving in sync, you risk bending at least some of the valves.
One strategy would be to try to put the chains in place and time the engine, then move the crank and remove the bolt. (This is not an option, if you have the chains completely removed.)
Strategy #2 would be to try to use the support tool somehow now when the engine is timed with the crank bolt and cam blocks.

[JimLev]

The crank holder doesn't have to touch the ground. I had a piece of a 6" x 8" timber that I put a piece of a 2" x 4" on top of, that supported the handle while I removed the Jesus bolt.
You can slowly turn the engine a bit in either direction with a socket on the crank bolt until you feel a slight resistance.
If you do this take the plugs out so the engine will turn over easier so you can better feel if the valve and piston meet.

[Tutti57]

Ah, right. It is right about where the transmission coolant exchange is. So I can probably build something up there if I remove that part.

[NLu]

Take a floor jack and raise it so it is supporting the crank holding tool. Keep the crank at TDC.

[Tutti57]

That's a good idea. I'll probably got it a whirl tonight. Should I keep the flywheel pin in too?

[shenecke]

Got my Jesus bolt out! Need to lock down the flywheel & cams to proceed. Put the flywheel locking pin in and my mark is off a little clockwise. Is that normal? Front lobes of the passenger bank cams are pointing left one about 2:00 and right one about 11:00. Will the pin go into any other holes that the correct TDC hole? Could I be 180 degrees off? Help!!!!

[Tutti57]

The cam closest to the engine on the left bank will be a little off and need to manually be turned back for the cam tool to fit on. The other bank should line up though.

[Tutti57]

Got it off. No problem with a 1/2" HF breaker bar with a 5' pipe one it. One good pull broke it lose.

I was prepared to break the bar but it wasn't bad at all. I had a much harder time with a driveshaft bolt yesterday.

I ended up building some wood up on the tool up to the frame.

Thanks for the replies.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/10/664cd62a739dda680c6010ab36278e22.jpg

[dannyzabolotny]

Yep, mine came loose super easily too. 3/4" breaker bar from HF with a 3/4" drive 1 1/16" socket from a tractor supply store + a 6 foot 1.25" pipe made it super easy. I also hit the bolt with some PB Blaster the night before, so that might have helped as well. I was almost disappointed at how easy it was.

[shenecke]

The cam closest to the engine on the left bank will be a little off and need to manually be turned back for the cam tool to fit on. The other bank should line up though.
Had to take my flywheel locking pin out so I could wiggle the crank to move one cam enough to get the locking block on. Other cam moved with a wrench to get it's block on. Now I need another body to wiggle the crank and see If I can get the flywheel locking pin back in! Got it!

[Tutti57]

Check out the procedures on the beisan page on vanos replacement. There is a 200 page document on the procedure that is helpful.

[shenecke]

I have read most all of the other procedures and watched the videos. I still find a few things that have not been addressed. I will post them as I come across them. You and I are both doing this at the same time so hopefully we can help each other as we find things!

- - - Updated - - -

Ok, three observations so far from the start of my guide replacement project that I did not see in any of the other videos/
DIY's that I have found so far:

1. Don't worry about the J bolt! If you have the right tools, comes right off.
2. Have to turn you wheels to move the steering center link (http://viglink.pgpartner.com/rd.php?r=30862&m=1456416484&q=n&rdgt=1447173748&it=1447605748&et=1447778548&priceret=189.90&pg=~~3&k=069fe3a68f07e5632f4bde985360c324&source=feed&url=http%3A%2F%2Frd%2Ebizrate%2Ecom%2Frd%3Ft%3Dhtt p%253A%252F%252Fwww%2Eamazon%2Ecom%252Fdp%252FB004 A305Y4%252Fref%253Dasc%5Fdf%5FB004A305Y43976057%25 3Fsmid%253DATVPDKIKX0DER%2526tag%253Dshopzilla0d%2 D20%2526ascsubtag%253Dshopzilla%5Frev%5F121%2D20%2 53BSZ%5FREDIRECT%5FID%2526linkCode%253Ddf0%2526cre ative%253D395093%2526creativeASIN%253DB004A305Y4%2 6mid%3D184056%26cat%5Fid%3D22000200%26atom%3D10681 %26prod%5Fid%3D%26oid%3D5668338888%26pos%3D1%26b%5 Fid%3D18%26bid%5Ftype%3D4%26bamt%3D8086a9d9f3c0e3e f%26cobrand%3D106%26ppr%3D03ab456bca1fd81a%26rf%3D afp%26af%5Fassettype%5Fid%3D12%26af%5Fcreative%5Fi d%3D2932%26af%5Fid%3D613705%26af%5Fplacement%5Fid% 3D1%26dv%3Df49075b22c02c284b16bfb37c95ff465&st=feed&mt=~~~~~~~~n~~~) out of the way to insert flywheel locking pin.
3. I had to remove the flywheel locking pin to wiggle the crank shaft get my cam lock blocks on the non vanos cam. Other cam you must rotate with a wrench to get the locking block on. I think with my cam locking tools, this would be impossible with the crank lock pin in!
4. Flywheel locking tool only goes in about a 1/4" or the length of the narrow step on the end. Inserted after cams are locked in place!
5. Check and adjust the slack in the oil pump drive chain while the oil pan is off!

[Tutti57]

All good info here. I just got the covers off and am working on the vanos seals again tomorrow. I am worried about that since I ruined the first set it got trying to get them seated with a pick.

I've got more info on what I've been doing in my build tread in the touring section.

[shenecke]

Torx head bolt that holds the passenger chain tension rail is on tight! Soaked it in penetrating oil and will try again tomorrow. Hoping it does'nt break as I have seen on other members cars! I am at about 20 hours on this project so far and still need to take the old guides off. From what I can see they don't look too bad even though I had found a few small pieces in the oil pan. No bad for 140,000 miles. I change my oil twice a year but only clock about 10,000 miles. Pictures of the guides to follow tomorrow when I get them off!

[Tutti57]

My center guide was destroyed! Heading out there now so I'll get a pic.

[E39 Expert]

It wouldn't hurt if you do.

[Tutti57]

Here is the center guide. There was only one small piece in the pan but this one was toast. I've got about 150k on it right now.

[Tutti57]

@shenecke are you doing vanos seals too?

[gmak]

Here is the center guide. There was only one small piece in the pan but this one was toast. I've got about 150k on it right now.

The pic is missing.

[shenecke]

@shenecke are you doing vanos seals too?
No. My vanos units spit out oil when I rotated them so I am assuming the seals are still good and holding pressure. I previously did the valley pan, intake manifold and water pump about a year ago so I am not doing those also. Just guides and seals.

[Tutti57]

The pic is missing.
Oops. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/13/e6aac0693d5a651551d04a5d37507291.jpg