New Battery BMW 2009 328 xi

[Sayuushi]

Hi!!

I did my research and i am aware that i need a new battery registered.
So i want to buy a new battery off of Advance Auto Parts (about $150), have my local mechanic put it in ($30) and then register it at the BMW dealership ($150) = TOTAL of $330 VS. $425-$500 done all at BMW dealership - makes sense, right?

Now my question: which battery would you guys recommend? And has anyone used the autocraft brand?
I'm thinking to get the the "Autocraft Gold Battery, Group Size 49, 900 CCA" - 900 CCA is the same that's currently in it (OEM BMW), i'm now not sure about the Group Size.
If you could please help me out, because i'm really not sure about the size of the battery and i want to get the right one of course.

which battery do you guys recommend for my 2009 328 xi. I want to most likely get it off of Advance Auto Parts, because they have a 20% coupon. I was thinking of this one: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-gold-battery-group-size-49-900-cca-49h8/2130012-P?navigationPath=L1*14920%7CL2*15000.
An yes i know to get registered - i want to have that done at the dealer.
Thanks!

[cheech1]

Save the $30, install it yourself, and take the car to an independent BMW shop to register. Just take your time removing & installing, it's not that hard at all. Just be very careful with the red box on top of the battery, as if you damage it, it's going to cost you.

[Sayuushi]

Thanks! I'm actually now still looking for the right battery and even if i ask all the stores like advance auto parts - they always give me multiple battery options with a group class of H8 or 49, which differ in price by $50. Is there a way somehow to really find out what is ok?

[Old525i]

Bosch has a new diagnostics scan tool: OBD1200 CodeConnect, that in addition to P code scanning, reset, etc., does battery registrations for BMW, Ford trucks, Mini Cooper and other vehicles with this "feature". Not tied to VIN numbers. About $200. There are two battery types: flooded cell and AGM. This tool will work if you replace the original battery with one of the same type and same Ampere-Hour rating and same CCA. If you switch battery types, you need to visit the dealer to change the software that handles your battery. If you stay within the same type, but change battery parameters (Ampere-Hours or CCA), you need to visit the dealer to change the software that handles your battery.

[cochise325]

Is your current battery white or black?

You can read the battery output on the top of your battery. You need to match these numbers.

[trohde78]

I can't find the post right now, but a lot of people have had good results with the Walmart Maxx H8 (including myself), which is only around $120, and is 1000CCA.

- - - Updated - - -

And as others have said, don't have the dealer code it for $150. It literally takes 2 minutes, so have an Indy do it (mine did it for free), or tell the dealer you'll pay them like $30. :-)

[Saltql]

Battery registration? Ive never heard of this. I installed a new battery about a year ago and haven't had any issues until just recently.

Sputtering crank but what its fires its good, my battery indicator on my radar detector shows a low battery after sitting a while, could the battery reset be causing the issue?

[trohde78]

Battery registration? Ive never heard of this. I installed a new battery about a year ago and haven't had any issues until just recently.

Sputtering crank but what its fires its good, my battery indicator on my radar detector shows a low battery after sitting a while, could the battery reset be causing the issue?

Registration is basically just telling the car that there is a new battery installed. The computer uses this information to adjust the charging cycle (less for a new battery, and more for an old one). The theory is that if it isn't registered, then the computer will overcharge the new battery (thinking it's still the 5 year old battery), which could then reduce it's life.