View Full Version : 82 633CSI Barn Find - Newbie Here
Safari Beige
10-06-2015, 09:13 AM
Hello boys and girls.. Just purchased a single owner shark with many miles but almost flawless in appearance. Motor has 200K but runs like a champ and no apparent oil leaks. Has a few electrical issues, but I am willing to sacrifice some time to resolve them. Hopefully some quality feedback here will suffice! Build date: 12/81
https://dannen.smugmug.com/My-First-Gallery/i-2ph6z3B/0/L/FullSizeRender-2-L.jpg
carnut1947
10-06-2015, 10:54 AM
Nice car! great find. Electrical issues? Please explain.
Safari Beige
10-06-2015, 11:47 AM
Nice car! great find. Electrical issues? Please explain. All four power windows do not operate as well as the sunroof. Have not really had the opportunity to start the troubleshoot, but a quick glance at the fuse box indicates the fusing looks proper and no indication of being open. I really do not want to start pulling door panels first, any thoughts?
grantray
10-06-2015, 11:55 AM
Not too long ago, I also just bought a 633CSi built the same month as yours. And it's also in incredibly great shape. Regardless, don't trust any of the old fuses and replace them all. Just because they look okay doesn't mean they are.
alpinacsi
10-06-2015, 11:55 AM
All four power windows do not operate as well as the sunroof. Have not really had the opportunity to start the troubleshoot, but a quick glance at the fuse box indicates the fusing looks proper and no indication of being open. I really do not want to start pulling door panels first, any thoughts?
Check the circuit breaker on the lower panel above the right knee. Also; if anybody has had that lower panel removed: the wires could have been knocked off the back of the switch.
Safari Beige
10-06-2015, 07:23 PM
Check the circuit breaker on the lower panel above the right knee. Also; if anybody has had that lower panel removed: the wires could have been knocked off the back of the switch. Than you AlpinaCSI, I will look for the circuit breaker within the lower panel this evening.
if it is not there the circuit breaker may be under the stereo on the center dash
alpinacsi
10-06-2015, 09:30 PM
if it is not there the circuit breaker may be under the stereo on the center dash
I don't remember any of the early cars being anywhere other than the under dash panel.
DesktopDave
10-06-2015, 09:56 PM
The power window breaker is a great place to start. If it's not that, check the switches internally too. They're prone to oxidizing over the years; not difficult to fix with a steady hand, some contact cleaner and a bit of fine sandpaper. The rear windows are also prone to seizing up, pull the lower panels out to lube the slider post.
The old bullet-type fuse contacts can also "relax" over the years. A quick fix is to use o-rings as springs to increase tension.
Safari Beige
10-07-2015, 09:16 AM
The power window breaker is a great place to start. If it's not that, check the switches internally too. They're prone to oxidizing over the years; not difficult to fix with a steady hand, some contact cleaner and a bit of fine sandpaper. The rear windows are also prone to seizing up, pull the lower panels out to lube the slider post.
The old bullet-type fuse contacts can also "relax" over the years. A quick fix is to use o-rings as springs to increase tension. Hello Dave, are you saying you can wrap an "O-ring" around the fuse clip to hold the bullet type fuse securely? Could you show me a picture of the quick fix. Sounds like a good idea, I am kind of paranoid to use a needle nose plyer to adjust clips in fear of breaking them. Old fuse box, right!
FireDevlin
10-07-2015, 10:07 AM
Looks fantastic, great find.
alpinacsi
10-07-2015, 11:38 AM
http://www.mye28.com/tech/rods_pages/id22.html
Second pic should explain all you need to know.
castironphil
10-07-2015, 11:50 AM
Beautiful find!
carnut1947
10-07-2015, 01:58 PM
If the circuit breaker is popped, it will have a red ring around the base of the push button switch.
alpinacsi
10-07-2015, 04:00 PM
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/~OEAAOxyhS9Tfb1N/$_57.JPG
There is no red ring around the switch for the early cars.
Looghis
10-07-2015, 04:05 PM
if you didnt already try it, its worth squirting a bunch of contact cleaner into the switches, the passenger window didnt work at all when i bought my 6 but some contact cleaner into the top of the switch got it working great.
You could also upgrade the switches with lit ones from later models
alpinacsi
10-07-2015, 04:56 PM
if you didnt already try it, its worth squirting a bunch of contact cleaner into the switches, the passenger window didnt work at all when i bought my 6 but some contact cleaner into the top of the switch got it working great.
You could also upgrade the switches with lit ones from later models
The car in question is an early model: you can not replace the switches with lit ones from later models.
Early (e12 chassis) cars most times have completely different parts from the later (e28 chassis) cars.
Shipper
10-07-2015, 07:37 PM
http://www.mye28.com/tech/rods_pages/id22.html
Second pic should explain all you need to know.
This link is a gold mine.
Mike323i
10-08-2015, 07:25 AM
Yeah, careful with that myE28.com link, since this is an E12 car.
Safari Beige
10-09-2015, 09:04 AM
The power window breaker is a great place to start. If it's not that, check the switches internally too. They're prone to oxidizing over the years; not difficult to fix with a steady hand, some contact cleaner and a bit of fine sandpaper. The rear windows are also prone to seizing up, pull the lower panels out to lube the slider post.
The old bullet-type fuse contacts can also "relax" over the years. A quick fix is to use o-rings as springs to increase tension. Power issue resolved now, was not the 15A breaker, just a switch issue. Operation of windows are sluggish. I used the manual crank, open - close - open -close, feels tight. What type of lube would you recommend for the window guides after I pull the panels?
- - - Updated - - -
Thanks for the pic! This is the style breaker installed. The red test button worked as intended. It is located below the dashboard dimmer switch, thank you.
DesktopDave
10-09-2015, 08:39 PM
I'd use a nice lithium "white" grease for the motor gear, linkage, pivots & slides inside the door. Avoid lithium grease aerosols, get it in a tube. It's highly compatible with plastics too, but don't use white grease on rubber. Gummi Pflege (http://www.autogeek.net/1z-einszett-rubber-care-stick.html) is nice for that. The rear windows have a single central metal spine that's always caked with old grease.
The switches can be dismantled and cleaned if you're careful. I usually spray them with DeoxIT (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BBVN2/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687582&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0002BBV4G&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1V5AEKSQPPZZ16WBNPNS), then buff the contacts with some very fine wet/dry paper to restore them. Don't go crazy though.
BTW, that Safari is a really nice color on an E24. Great find!
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