1985 325e / Failed smog, but emissions "PASSED"

[kajmac]

Hello all, this is my first post to the community!

Recently picked up a black 1985 325e with about 190k miles on it. I picked it up very cheap, because it failed smog.
The numbers all came back pretty decent, some were higher than I would like to see, but overall - they at least passed.
The reason for failure was due to black smoke during the test.
The smog technician wrote at the bottom in pen and highlighted it: "Failed for visible black smoke on the B.A.R snap on test -"
Owner of the car told me it never smokes on the road, it was only during the test.

The seller recommended changing the O2 sensor, but I wanted to hear what you all have to say. What do you think? I know every smog test shop will tell me bad cats...but I want to work my way up to that if I have to.
Below are the numbers: (sorry they are so hard to read - formatting got totally jacked. The bolds are the actual measurements, and they match up in order with the bold titles).

%CO2 %O2 HC (PPM) CO NO (PPM)
Test RPM MEAS MEAS MAX AVG MEAS MAX AVG MEAS MAX AVG MEAS Results:

15MPH: 2533: 14.3 0.3 138 50 43 .85 .38 .43 1148 729 614 PASS
25MPH: 2413: 14.4 0.2 79 39 70 .65 .26 .39 978 590 769 PASS

"Failed for visible black smoke on the B.A.R snap on test -"

Also, what do you guys think about the HC numbers increasing with higher MPH, rather than decreasing like the AVG and MAX?

Thanks, anything is much appreciated!

[dohcdoh]

Take it somewhere else and test it. If it passed everything but that black smoke bs it's fine. My ix passes smog with flying colors but occasionally will let out a puff of black when romping on it.

[Tom D]

I'd say bullshit too. I can't imagine passing a sniff test and visual equipment test and then failing the test based of some guy's personal opinion. the test equipment doesn't lie, clean is clean and I would protest this one!

- - - Updated - - -

I often have inspectors try to fail my test (not smog) because they "would like to see.....", at that point I pull out the code book and ask him to point to the rule that says his personal opinion trumps over written code!

[kajmac]

555578
I finally pulled the trigger! After over a year of searching, I found the example I wanted. It's a 1985 325e, 5 speed 193k miles. All gears shifted smoothly and the temp needle stayed perfectly centered the entire drive home from LA to SD. Every seal looks perfect, no rust, 100% complete tool kit, all electrical switches work, A/C blows cool. However, as stated earlier, it failed smog this year - which is why I got it for the price I got it for - $1,000 flat.
Here are the few issues, any input is greatly appreciated:
1: The emission numbers all passed on the smog test, however it failed the visual inspection due to a black puff of smoke on the dyno. After hearing from you kind enthusiasts, as well as a few mechanically inclined friends I have, I am confident it will pass at another location. (I have heard to drive it hard for 30 minutes before test?)
2: The car is smooth as butter on the freeway, however at about 80+ mph in 5th gear and about 2500 rpms the ENTIRE dash and steering wheel vigorously shake. Is this alignment? Tire balancing? Suspension?
3: Check engine light flickers on and off, I reset it using the "Check" button above my head. I will plug in a scanner when I get the chance - (any advice on the best scanner for bmw and mercedes would be appreciated also).
4: There is a mild engine tick, which I assume to be lifters. Should I go straight to a valve adjustment or try a fuel injector cleaner like "Lucas" first? (I have a shop where I can work on my cars)
5: Lastly, I need to replace the front bumper as it's cracked. Should I just find a metal bumper on craigslist for $50 bucks and stay original, or should I go for a conversion? (Or as a compromise, could I replace the metal bumper and add a front and back valence? Or do I need to do all plastic if I want to do that?)

Thank you in advance for the input and advice!

[estoguy]

Can't offer any insight on your emissions issue - In Ontario my Eta does not need testing anymore.

That shake... since it seems speed related, I'd check your wheel balance first, then move into the more complicated stuff.

The "Check" light is for the panel above your rear view mirror. It's not diagnostic related and the Eta did not have OBD.

The tick is just the engine. Properly tuned, that six should sound like a sewing machine.