New flywheel necessary for clutch replacement?

[TougeM540]

Yooo..

I just got back from korea, found a tree landed on my car, but anyhow, my clutch is due for replacement.

Imma just put OEM replacement sachs clutch kit.

The flywheel however, does it really need to be replaced?

I don't feel any issues on my drivetrain, other than it doesn't really grab anymore and free revs, I think it has a stock clutch (200k+)

There is a shop 30 min from my place that can resurface dual mass.

I have 3 options
just leave the flywheel, or get it resurfaced or buy a new one.

Unexpected tree landing will cost me a lot of money now that I need new windshield and a hood (and paint too!) and I don't want my insurance to total my clean title car lol.

So I'm on a budget.

What are your honest advice? Other than 'go die' cuz I'm Tougem5

[AHenry014]

Well, you have a fourth option, which is service the flywheel on the car/engine. Use a die grinder with a scotch bright pad to LIGHTLY deglaze the surface. Ive done this a couple times without issue. Keep in mind, you need a 'special' tool to remove the b40 flywheel. Getting it resurfaced is always a the best option for a new clutch on a used flywheel, but you have to get it off first. Unfortunately you wont know if the flywheel needs replacing with a new/different one until its apart. You may find the surface totally trashed; i.e. grooved, in which case youd want to replace it or have it resurfaced. Some feel you shouldn't be able to move the surface of the flywheel too easily. A 'knocking' flywheel is a worn out flywheel. Though, i am not sure how one quantifies a failure, as I ditched my dual mass in favor of a JBR flywheel.

[TougeM540]

Well, you have a fourth option, which is service the flywheel on the car/engine. Use a die grinder with a scotch bright pad to LIGHTLY deglaze the surface. Ive done this a couple times without issue. Keep in mind, you need a 'special' tool to remove the b40 flywheel. Getting it resurfaced is always a the best option for a new clutch on a used flywheel, but you have to get it off first. Unfortunately you wont know if the flywheel needs replacing with a new/different one until its apart. You may find the surface totally trashed; i.e. grooved, in which case youd want to replace it or have it resurfaced. Some feel you shouldn't be able to move the surface of the flywheel too easily. A 'knocking' flywheel is a worn out flywheel. Though, i am not sure how one quantifies a failure, as I ditched my dual mass in favor of a JBR flywheel.

Wait what special tools? I thought it's just held by flywheel bolts lol

[E38740iMD]

Wait what special tools? I thought it's just held by flywheel bolts lol

i think i remember reading it was a slim narrow torx bit that hold something. but dont take my word on it. if on a budget, just resurface my mans

[mboor]

The special flywheel bolt tool is a long T55 torx socket i believe. How ever the heads of the bolts changed through out the years, so it may be a long T60 torx. Iirc the early B40's in the E34's take the T55 torx. I just went through this. I broke 2 snap on sockets trying to get them out. I found a set of impact grade medium length torx sockets at harbor freight that did the trick. Bought the whole set for $10 less than what i paid for the 1 snap on socket.

If your on a budget, "resurface" the flywheel yourself with a scotch bright pad as Ahenry014 suggested, as long as the flywheel isnt too torn up. Thats what i did on mine, because im poor. If you can resurface it on the engine, you'll save yourself the hassle of dealing with the stupid special flywheel bolts. By chance, did the tree knock off your M5 emblem?:stickoutt

[TougeM540]

Thanks for the advice guys, I'll resurface mine.

[AHenry014]

yea the tool is a narrow shank, long necked t50, 55, or 60. I think I borrowed the tool from a forum member here to get mine off. /
last post, 1st page:
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1773084-540i6-Clutch-slipping-options

[TougeM540]

Any long t55 would do ?

- - - Updated - - -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-T55-N-Extra-Long-Engine-Head-Bolt-Socket-Tamper-Proof-/252078591240?hash=item3ab10e0d08&item=252078591240&vxp=mtr

?

[AHenry014]

not sure. the reason the bmw tool has a narrow shank is because the bolt holes are not aligned with the bolt heads, but that tool may work. ive heard of people using local auto parts store/harbor frieght tools

[Martinator]

I've got Zdmak 114180 Flywheel Bolt Torx Socket if need borrow. On eastside.
http://tse1.mm.bing.net/th?&id=JN.61rrU8fKAyLdO6076QiXEw&w=300&h=300&c=0&pid=1.9&rs=0&p=0&r=0

[Bimmerick]

I have been researching clutch kits and flywheels (http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2204117-1995-540i-6-Speed-Clutch-Flywheel-Options) for a manual swap and my understanding was that a dual mass flywheel was basically a "consumable". With its moving parts, springs, etc. If it needs to be resurfaced, it probably needs replacing. And with 200k miles on it, its likely time to go.

I haven't pulled the trigger yet, but I think I've settled on a TTV Racing E39 one piece light weight flywheel (http://ttvracing.com/engine-types/?manufacturers=bmw&type=flywheels#prettyPhoto[iframes]/23/) (15lbs and $470 delivered), and a LUK 03042 E39 M5 clutch kit (~$220 delivered from RockAuto).

[Smoky540i]

I have been researching clutch kits and flywheels (http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2204117-1995-540i-6-Speed-Clutch-Flywheel-Options) for a manual swap and my understanding was that a dual mass flywheel was basically a "consumable". With its moving parts, springs, etc. If it needs to be resurfaced, it probably needs replacing. And with 200k miles on it, its likely time to go.

I haven't pulled the trigger yet, but I think I've settled on a TTV Racing E39 one piece light weight flywheel (http://ttvracing.com/engine-types/?manufacturers=bmw&type=flywheels#prettyPhoto[iframes]/23/) (15lbs and $470 delivered), and a LUK 03042 E39 M5 clutch kit (~$220 delivered from RockAuto).
So did you end up going with the TTV racing single mass flywheel?

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[Bimmerick]

So did you end up going with the TTV racing single mass flywheel?

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I did go with the flywheel and clutch referenced above. I only have a few hundred miles on it but so far I am very happy with the set up. I recently drove another forum member's 540/6 with the original dual mass FW and stock clutch. His car has 72K original miles!!!

Anyway, super nice car but the dual mass FW felt much different; I like the the lightweight FW much better. The dual mass felt little heavy and numb in comparison. And yes once warmed up there is gearbox chatter in neutral with the clutch out but the purr of my awesome B&B exhaust drowns it out...

[papa t]

I went with the TTY flywheel as well, but I bought their 265mm flywheel for my 540i/6. with the exchange rate I paid $463 including shipping. I had the lightweight steel flywheel (18 lbs) in about a week after I ordered it. They responded quickly to all of my questions (well, quickly considering the time zone differences). I would recommend them as an alternative to the more expensive aluminum options.

[Smoky540i]

Nice! Thanks for the response. I just picked up a solid, but needy 540i6 and sold my 540iA. Going to start a build thread once I get some parts to slap on the new car...getting pretty excited :)

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[Bimmerick]

I went with the TTY flywheel as well, but I bought their 265mm flywheel for my 540i/6. with the exchange rate I paid $463 including shipping. I had the lightweight steel flywheel (18 lbs) in about a week after I ordered it. They responded quickly to all of my questions (well, quickly considering the time zone differences). I would recommend them as an alternative to the more expensive aluminum options.

Good point about customer service. My experience with TTV Racing was first rate. It definitely didn't feel like they were "across the pond". And FWIW the E39 flywheel is 15.2 lbs...

[Smoky540i]

Good point about customer service. My experience with TTV Racing was first rate. It definitely didn't feel like they were "across the pond". And FWIW the E39 flywheel is 15.2 lbs...
So from what I've read to switch from 265mm to 240mm I'll need at least: flywheel, clutch disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and a new slave cylinder. Does that sound about right? I see that the 240mm slave cylinder is different than the 265mm one...

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[Bimmerick]

So from what I've read to switch from 265mm to 240mm I'll need at least: flywheel, clutch disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and a new slave cylinder. Does that sound about right? I see that the 240mm slave cylinder is different than the 265mm one...

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That's right (this post may help) (http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2204117-1995-540i-6-Speed-Clutch-Flywheel-Options&p=28880075#post28880075). You will also need new flywheel bolts. I guess you should replace them anyway, but if you decide to go with a one piece FW, the bolts are different than for a dual mass. The one piece uses the same bolts as the automatic trans flex plate.

[Smoky540i]

^that's good info. Thanks Rick!

Other items I'm planning on while I'm in there are: flex disc, CSB, trans and maybe engine mounts, trans fluid, and maybe an E60 shift kit. Anything else you'd do while it's torn apart?

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[Bimmerick]

^that's good info. Thanks Rick!

Other items I'm planning on while I'm in there are: flex disc, CSB, trans and maybe engine mounts, trans fluid, and maybe an E60 shift kit. Anything else you'd do while it's torn apart?

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Definitely a new rear main seal and seal carrier gasket. The three seals on the transmission (input, output, and shifter) also. I made the mistake of using an aftermarket input shaft seal and it did not go well. I ended up with RP Synchromax all over my driveway. I had to drop the exhaust, heat shield, driveshaft, and trans AGAIN to replace it. Read the sad story here (http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2283352-6-Speed-Manual-Transmission-Leaking).

[ross1]

I'm curious about who re-surfaced this guy's flywheel.
OP, where are you ? Follow up please.

[Smoky540i]

^that's good advice too. I'll have to look up what the seal carrier gasket though. I had read about your nightmare with seals too, what a headache! So you recommend going with BMW brand seals?

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[papa t]

Definitely a new rear main seal and seal carrier gasket. The three seals on the transmission (input, output, and shifter) also. I made the mistake of using an aftermarket input shaft seal and it did not go well. I ended up with RP Synchromax all over my driveway. I had to drop the exhaust, heat shield, driveshaft, and trans AGAIN to replace it. Read the sad story here (http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2283352-6-Speed-Manual-Transmission-Leaking).

I agree. Take care of as many of the tough to get to seals as you can, even if they look good unless you know for sure they've been replaced. If you haven't done so already, you may want to consider replacing the cooling system accumulator gaskets as they are easier to access from the back when the transmission is pulled than from on top.