Justin's LS E46

[Novablue454]

Hey everyone, I've been lurking around reading and learning, as well as asking some questions so I figured it was time to make a thread. I'm Justin, new to drifting, but not to cars. I'm a Subaru tech at a High Performance shop in Denver, and a month ago i picked up my first ever BMW. It's a 1999 328i, 133k, MT. Here's the night I picked it up.

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=541299&stc=1
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=541300&stc=1

The car spent its life in Utah and the Colorado mountains, so its pretty beat up interior/exterior wise, but the price was right and mechanically it's in great shape. All I have done so far is replace the spark plugs and change the oil, as well as spent hours trying to scrub years of ingrained dirt out of the interior. Heres a few more pics from today.

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=541301&stc=1
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=541302&stc=1
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=541303&stc=1
I have Powerflex trailing arm bushings in the mail, as well as a set of BC Racing Coilovers, Turner subframe/strut tower reinforcements, Achilles ATR Sport tires, and an extended wheel stud conversion kit. Long term plans include gutting the interior, racing buckets, a cage, bash bar, welded diff, and a SLR Drift Angle kit. Progress will be slow, as i've got a few other projects going on as well.

[Novablue454]

Everything has shown up now with the exception of my tires.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/BD4D3EAC-A251-4EEA-AD4B-C3875EE23EE6_zpszy1kfa0u.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/BD4D3EAC-A251-4EEA-AD4B-C3875EE23EE6_zpszy1kfa0u.jpg.html)
I am waiting to see about getting a 2 post lift installed at my house, then I'll get to work installing all of it.

[JesterMX6]

lookin good

[Novablue454]

Tires showed up today! Well, 2 of them did. The other two should be here tomorrow.
541735

Had the installation company come by and see about getting a lift installed. Turns out the concrete at my house is shitty and the only option is to lay a whole new pad, which is out of my budget, so that's a bummer.

[protomor]

The average home garage is far too shallow to put in full posts. Scissor lifts might be an option for you instead.

[Novablue454]

I was looking in to installing one outdoors in an RV type parking spot to the side of the garage (if you can picture that) and then building a carport roof over it. My neighborhood is on bentonite and the concrete has a few cracks right in the way of where the posts would need to be, so an entire new pad would need to be laid and that puts me over budget.

[Novablue454]

Got some work done last night today finally. Ran in to a few questions along the way.

Front Coilovers Installed
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/1EBFC9E0-6510-454C-97A2-234E6A3952B5_zpshhfk6ssy.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/1EBFC9E0-6510-454C-97A2-234E6A3952B5_zpshhfk6ssy.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/36A82797-2724-4D93-8D40-0D017649CF27_zps4xx9bnyv.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/36A82797-2724-4D93-8D40-0D017649CF27_zps4xx9bnyv.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/CF0954A6-FD74-4E4B-8B8A-0B9B0FAF54ED_zps5zcsw2tm.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/CF0954A6-FD74-4E4B-8B8A-0B9B0FAF54ED_zps5zcsw2tm.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/E998AB76-8416-4AEA-A39A-AD503C7F4FC7_zpsl1uvmaqo.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/E998AB76-8416-4AEA-A39A-AD503C7F4FC7_zpsl1uvmaqo.jpg.html)

I installed the strut tower braces from Turner Motorsport and they don't seem to let the tophats sit flush with the strut tower. Is this due to the strut towers being damaged already? If so, whats the fix to that?

On to the rear
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/01BD5F46-1722-445E-83EC-42ABFCBDCCC3_zpspz8fjaql.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/01BD5F46-1722-445E-83EC-42ABFCBDCCC3_zpspz8fjaql.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/3BEB1E9A-BBAA-4C3C-B8FE-8E081A18E9A2_zpsfqm1ddth.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/3BEB1E9A-BBAA-4C3C-B8FE-8E081A18E9A2_zpsfqm1ddth.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/F90B3D97-EEE7-44CA-A1D0-75C55F60C522_zpsbpgvaf5v.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/F90B3D97-EEE7-44CA-A1D0-75C55F60C522_zpsbpgvaf5v.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/FB8A9D4A-7E8B-4A8C-9131-13ABF1C07217_zpsbsjbnvww.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/FB8A9D4A-7E8B-4A8C-9131-13ABF1C07217_zpsbsjbnvww.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/A130C6B7-4BD7-4E03-B93B-D4DB8A929746_zpsqlo3d8ot.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/A130C6B7-4BD7-4E03-B93B-D4DB8A929746_zpsqlo3d8ot.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/9C4AA5AC-9D53-4ECF-885F-1003BD631839_zpsf9izh1ay.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/9C4AA5AC-9D53-4ECF-885F-1003BD631839_zpsf9izh1ay.jpg.html)

and a photo of the stock junk that I pulled out
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/D3BAA4A8-05DB-4F85-B740-9852586AC53A_zps06pd7zxf.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/D3BAA4A8-05DB-4F85-B740-9852586AC53A_zps06pd7zxf.jpg.html)

- - - Updated - - -

Going to have my roomate weld up the Diff and the subframe reinforcements this week sometime. The rear diff bushings are shot, so I have to get some of those on the way next week as well. We decided since it was half apart already we may as well do the clutch now before it dies completely. I am also going to build a new exhaust.

[Novablue454]

got the diff welded up. Not pretty but I'm confident it will hold.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/F1B29F31-5C3C-40D7-9FA5-977131837168_zpstp7rrmml.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/F1B29F31-5C3C-40D7-9FA5-977131837168_zpstp7rrmml.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/9849FCD2-BC95-44E8-A0A5-BA3118B349D5_zpsg7d0ovcw.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/9849FCD2-BC95-44E8-A0A5-BA3118B349D5_zpsg7d0ovcw.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/16FA108F-8182-4A84-8F36-2BF169B8CCDB_zpsw3auaesg.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/16FA108F-8182-4A84-8F36-2BF169B8CCDB_zpsw3auaesg.jpg.html)

[Novablue454]

removing the worn out LTAB bushings for the Powerflex replacements
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/7B189821-3DA6-4A56-A106-87BB27B64EC3_zpsinbwlzxd.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/7B189821-3DA6-4A56-A106-87BB27B64EC3_zpsinbwlzxd.jpg.html)

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/BC44BC01-3090-4B0E-B9A6-F726575088FD_zpshe1jer0i.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/BC44BC01-3090-4B0E-B9A6-F726575088FD_zpshe1jer0i.jpg.html)

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/CF5F3326-CC6C-42A5-B8AC-6F2853599C19_zpsrdcxff2v.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/CF5F3326-CC6C-42A5-B8AC-6F2853599C19_zpsrdcxff2v.jpg.html)

got the diff back together

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/A1398FBF-FEFA-4A47-9CD3-E86C6EC27FC1_zpsl3eqvlwm.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/A1398FBF-FEFA-4A47-9CD3-E86C6EC27FC1_zpsl3eqvlwm.jpg.html)

Starting on the subframe reinforcements

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/7AE633B5-8CE3-4CAA-AB4E-C3D943C3640D_zpsokatguis.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/7AE633B5-8CE3-4CAA-AB4E-C3D943C3640D_zpsokatguis.jpg.html)

[protomor]

Please take great pictures of this reinforcement process! I can't tell if yours is cracking or that's just a stain from years.

btw, you have the same sears foam floor puzzle tiles I do.

[Novablue454]

Please take great pictures of this reinforcement process! I can't tell if yours is cracking or that's just a stain from years.

btw, you have the same sears foam floor puzzle tiles I do.

I think it is a crack, i'm going to weld over it just to be sure, however after hours of reading i've decided to panel bond on the reinforcement plates rather than weld them.


haha yeah, I had to get something to protect the floor from all the motorcycle kickstands.

[protomor]

Why panel bond? I figure nothing beats a strong weld.

[Novablue454]

After reading countless threads debating it it just seems like the better choice. Welding kills the rust protection between the layers of sheetmetal, can warp the existing metal, only creates a bond along the edges rather then the entire piece, and takes skill I don't have to weld thin metal overhead. I talked to some body guys who are friends of mine and they all said more and more manufacturers are specifying panel bond over welds these days. One even mentioned that Cadillac calls for front frame rails to be panel bonded on rather the welded on repairs. Not to mention I don't want the slag messing up the floor.

Found some time tonight to get in the garage for a few minutes and get the crack welded up.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/32CD16E6-5A85-4C93-8D55-D72704C7894A_zps1p05psfp.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/32CD16E6-5A85-4C93-8D55-D72704C7894A_zps1p05psfp.jpg.html)

Tomorrow night I am going to stick on the reinforcement plates and let them cure until Saturday, my Powerflex diff bushings will be here tomorrow, and then I can hopefully get the rear end back together Saturday. 2 of the exhaust studs broke off so i've got to fix as well.

[autowa]

After reading countless threads debating it it just seems like the better choice. Welding kills the rust protection between the layers of sheetmetal, can warp the existing metal, only creates a bond along the edges rather then the entire piece, and takes skill I don't have to weld thin metal overhead. I talked to some body guys who are friends of mine and they all said more and more manufacturers are specifying panel bond over welds these days. One even mentioned that Cadillac calls for front frame rails to be panel bonded on rather the welded on repairs. Not to mention I don't want the slag messing up the floor.

Found some time tonight to get in the garage for a few minutes and get the crack welded up.


Tomorrow night I am going to stick on the reinforcement plates and let them cure until Saturday, my Powerflex diff bushings will be here tomorrow, and then I can hopefully get the rear end back together Saturday. 2 of the exhaust studs broke off so i've got to fix as well.


You can bond/ glue the plates in however you still have to cut out the truck floor and weld there to tie in the 3 pieces of sheet metal of the unibody. Do that first then glue the plates on underneath. Doing just the plates won't help.

Sent from my SGH-I337M POS

[Novablue454]

You can bond/ glue the plates in however you still have to cut out the truck floor and weld there to tie in the 3 pieces of sheet metal of the unibody. Do that first then glue the plates on underneath. Doing just the plates won't help.

Sent from my SGH-I337M POS

I know. i'm just debating back and forth on doing the plates from above or doing some sort of reinforcement bar. Something like this

542777

[Novablue454]

Finally got around to starting on the upper parts of the reinforcement. I don't know why but I could not get my welder set right, perhaps it was the rust coating in there,

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/4B879F01-AA31-4FD9-B30E-D7E3850C49E6_zpsufpg6ptb.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/4B879F01-AA31-4FD9-B30E-D7E3850C49E6_zpsufpg6ptb.jpg.html)

got the powerflex diff bushings in the mail, installed them, and got the diff back in the cradle
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/4C8D0680-B91B-4460-B76D-6ED0FA9583D3_zps5jnn949y.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/4C8D0680-B91B-4460-B76D-6ED0FA9583D3_zps5jnn949y.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/F0465369-5BAF-4E44-87C8-7A80A2A9A66B_zps939unjlb.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/F0465369-5BAF-4E44-87C8-7A80A2A9A66B_zps939unjlb.jpg.html)

[Novablue454]

got the panels bonded in tonight, now I am sort of wishing I would have welded them. I have no doubts on the bonds strength, however I am afraid the bolts used to hold them in place while they cure may get bonded as well. I liberally applied anti-sieze to them first, but I am still very paranoid about it.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/4EA0250D-536A-4F6E-80B0-46764157F1F6_zpszgzsohvm.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/4EA0250D-536A-4F6E-80B0-46764157F1F6_zpszgzsohvm.jpg.html)

[Novablue454]

Well, its been a while and I sort of forgot about this thread. I got the car back on the ground. I didn't go low (I actually didn't adjust the coilovers at all)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/79680873-74A6-4827-BE6A-7972B6C77D41_zpsyz2d36sa.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/79680873-74A6-4827-BE6A-7972B6C77D41_zpsyz2d36sa.jpg.html)
I was planning on running duals, but got lazy and had a local shop make me a 2-1 with a high flow cat. I love how it came out.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/5C5A843E-C1E7-49BD-AE8D-7E42182B0462_zpsvomdxsa5.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/5C5A843E-C1E7-49BD-AE8D-7E42182B0462_zpsvomdxsa5.jpg.html)
Got it aligned
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/53DD5DD7-6311-4D96-9A25-EF5672178234_zpsu6bt0wn4.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/53DD5DD7-6311-4D96-9A25-EF5672178234_zpsu6bt0wn4.jpg.html)
Then it was time to hit the road for the 7 hour drive to my first track day ever!http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/9D346982-52B4-497A-910F-BBC4160D2093_zpsijkvphtn.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/9D346982-52B4-497A-910F-BBC4160D2093_zpsijkvphtn.jpg.html)
first killed tire of my drift career, haha
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/DA5785EF-A570-4E88-8271-76BBAEC26F09_zpswph4m5lp.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/DA5785EF-A570-4E88-8271-76BBAEC26F09_zpswph4m5lp.jpg.html)
hanging in the pits
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/6444A272-EACE-4E19-94DC-45793B89722A_zpsqtlyfg6u.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/6444A272-EACE-4E19-94DC-45793B89722A_zpsqtlyfg6u.jpg.html)
this one went out with a bang!
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/D309DBED-AC7F-4246-85C1-D66F34F74C47_zps5mwjwii4.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/D309DBED-AC7F-4246-85C1-D66F34F74C47_zps5mwjwii4.jpg.html)
It was a blast, I've never had more fun with a car in my life. No Coast 2105 was perfect, and I will definitely be driving back down next year. On the way home I decided I really want to commit to this sport/car/build, so now we are starting to tear it down for the winter and (hopefully) have it ready for the next No Coast bash. I sold my SRT8 Jeep to fund the build, so lots of stuff will be happening in the upcoming weeks. I have an email in to J's swap shop about a 6.0 LQ9 with harness and programmed ECM that will be paired with the Vorshlag swap kit (and possibly an s/c), an email in to SLR about the drift angle kit, and a voicemail in to RallyBuild about a cage. Also planning on some Bride seats, rear radiator set up, bash bars, and a wrap.

Here are some crappy videos of a couple runs.

https://youtu.be/MfvMHokaCtw


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3wwdPCObV68&feature=youtu.be

[Novablue454]

Some updates on progress:

Ordered an LS6 w/ standalone harness, programmed ECU, all engine accessories, TBW pedal box, and a T56. I should see it in 4-6 weeks. I also placed an order with Vorshlag for their entire LS swap package including engine/trans mounts, headers, oil pan, and some other stuff. On top of all that, I have an appointment with Rallybuild for a full FD spec cage to be installed the middle of next month, so let the transition from weekend warrior to track ready start!

Pulled out the perfectly good 2.8 and transmission

https://youtu.be/TPZvQ7URP9I
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/88B1D662-5F00-4C54-8AC5-7DCEAAF953E7_zpsfvaicrwn.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/88B1D662-5F00-4C54-8AC5-7DCEAAF953E7_zpsfvaicrwn.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/2F3D3E9D-B89F-46A1-9B83-3382E1275775_zpskgzmzepw.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/2F3D3E9D-B89F-46A1-9B83-3382E1275775_zpskgzmzepw.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/E2ED8BEF-1716-4A68-878B-7749523DF82B_zpsizgovxke.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/E2ED8BEF-1716-4A68-878B-7749523DF82B_zpsizgovxke.jpg.html)
Then we started pulling the interior apart (with some help from our foster dog, Sherman)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/0B0A7E79-A925-463C-9B14-2ED40A83334F_zpsbyxhfmp2.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/0B0A7E79-A925-463C-9B14-2ED40A83334F_zpsbyxhfmp2.jpg.html)http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/B583C3F6-E679-4BE5-A0B3-375646F860B0_zpshnasgg4h.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/B583C3F6-E679-4BE5-A0B3-375646F860B0_zpshnasgg4h.jpg.html)
Need to finish pulling out the carpet and various plastic bits, and then it's time to strip the sound deadening. Here she is resting for the evening.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/6C58AB2A-A63F-4F51-9DC6-B7DFF4DD0CF1_zps5vuyvvqh.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/6C58AB2A-A63F-4F51-9DC6-B7DFF4DD0CF1_zps5vuyvvqh.jpg.html)

[e46cruiser]

Damn can't wait to see this done! I'm glad there's more non-m e46's drifting out there! I'll see you at no coast bash next year!

[Novablue454]

got most of the interior out, and began removing the sound deadening today. The dry ice method is working great.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/B8F5114A-EB52-426B-AFE7-DAE28B6092F0_zpsnmntpgzc.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/B8F5114A-EB52-426B-AFE7-DAE28B6092F0_zpsnmntpgzc.jpg.html)

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/6624504F-2427-4612-8236-54C4AEC27390_zpsit9er77c.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/6624504F-2427-4612-8236-54C4AEC27390_zpsit9er77c.jpg.html)

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/DC072B17-6834-4676-8409-8D68F9BF2758_zpsan6ivvjm.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/DC072B17-6834-4676-8409-8D68F9BF2758_zpsan6ivvjm.jpg.html)

Ran out of dry ice before I finished, so I decided to save the rest for next weekend.

[TeXJ]

Very nice and looking forward to the details on the LS swap!

[Novablue454]

Thanks! Just a matter of waiting on everything to get here now. The first round of parts from Vorshlag arrived and look very nice.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/5439E878-B277-4778-A5F5-1808884B0512_zpsraevpcyu.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/5439E878-B277-4778-A5F5-1808884B0512_zpsraevpcyu.jpg.html)
I also decided to give up on anything BMW wiring wise after learning how integrated the DME is, so I ordered a Painless Chassis harness.

[jalopi]

here's to you having good luck with hearing back from sean love (guy who runs SLR), but it's been nearly two months since i emailed/called about upgrading my half kit to a full kit. still no response. the dude is damn near impossible to get a hold of

if you have someone in the shop that's good with TIG you'll probably be better off cutting the knuckles - the welder that i went to described the arms (e36) and knuckle material as being made of good quality steel and apparently welds no different from mild

[Novablue454]

Actually, Sean called me last night and talked to me on the phone for about 45 minutes about all my options, past builds, even helped out with some tech advice about the LS swap. Really nice guy, just real hard to get a hold of I guess. I got an invoice for the Ultra Angle kit, so I'll hopefully be placing my order tomorrow.

[jalopi]

he IS nice, but it takes ages to get a hold of him or for him to process orders. hopefully it doesn't take 1-2 months to get your angle kit like it did my half kit

[Novablue454]

We will see I guess. The car will be down for the swap until December (very optimistic) so I don't mind waiting on a quality product. It seems their isn't much of an option either, the only other kit I've found is Wisefab which costs almost double and has awful reviews.

More parts! My Painless chassis harness arrived in the mail today. I'm blown away by the quality of it, and it seems like its going to be pretty simple to install.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/69C8ECBC-3B49-4D8E-A401-FC9C5DA054BD_zpsorhwh5sf.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/69C8ECBC-3B49-4D8E-A401-FC9C5DA054BD_zpsorhwh5sf.jpg.html)

[jalopi]

there's a guy on one of the BMW drift facebook groups who's talking about making CNC'd aluminum control arms/ angle kit for $800. doesn't seem like it'll be ready until spring though


BTW if you've never had a v8 car before, you're gonna LOVE the swap. i had a v8 e30 for a while and man, was that thing fun. the only thing i'd worry about with your car is the frame. i know you did the turner subframe reinforcement plate stuff, but do a forum search for subframe failure. a bunch of guys who reinforced their subframe mount points ended up ripping the entire trunk floor out because the subframe mount points wouldn't budge. it seems the only way to fully cure this e46 problem is to do one of those triangle setups in between the rear shock towers, run bolts through the rearmost subframe holes and into the cabin, then secure them via sleeves welded to the triangle support

[Novablue454]

there's a guy on one of the BMW drift facebook groups who's talking about making CNC'd aluminum control arms/ angle kit for $800. doesn't seem like it'll be ready until spring though


BTW if you've never had a v8 car before, you're gonna LOVE the swap. i had a v8 e30 for a while and man, was that thing fun. the only thing i'd worry about with your car is the frame. i know you did the turner subframe reinforcement plate stuff, but do a forum search for subframe failure. a bunch of guys who reinforced their subframe mount points ended up ripping the entire trunk floor out because the subframe mount points wouldn't budge. it seems the only way to fully cure this e46 problem is to do one of those triangle setups in between the rear shock towers, run bolts through the rearmost subframe holes and into the cabin, then secure them via sleeves welded to the triangle support

Good looking out. I'm having the roll cage weld a bar between the rear shock mounts and then triangling them to rear subframe mounts. There's a BMW drift facebook? It won't come up when I search.

I've had lots of v8 cars, just never an LS. I have a 5.7 Hemi Jeep, and I sold an SRT8 Jeep to fund this build. I also have a 73 Nova with a 496 Stroker.

- - - Updated - - -

Got a TON done this weekend, what a pain removing all the sound deadening out. Tried both dry ice and a torch (mapp torch worked best), and it still took almost 10 hours to get cleaned up all the way.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/98A0B17E-5ADD-409B-9DDE-79B16909A784_zpsxvd8nrbk.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/98A0B17E-5ADD-409B-9DDE-79B16909A784_zpsxvd8nrbk.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/1C7BAEEA-CDD3-44CF-A225-7E797FB9E03B_zpsfyem2jmo.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/1C7BAEEA-CDD3-44CF-A225-7E797FB9E03B_zpsfyem2jmo.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/E0605226-F4BE-4D8B-8B98-5D440A123245_zpsgfmxdszk.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/E0605226-F4BE-4D8B-8B98-5D440A123245_zpsgfmxdszk.jpg.html)

Then we painted it all with VHT Roll bar and Chassis paint in gloss black.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/D7F076ED-BA82-43AA-BCB1-69E1E2DEA81A_zpshoahlgoy.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/D7F076ED-BA82-43AA-BCB1-69E1E2DEA81A_zpshoahlgoy.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/C2A96DCF-6413-46DF-A0A5-B9FC0C6545C3_zpsywpdayj9.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/C2A96DCF-6413-46DF-A0A5-B9FC0C6545C3_zpsywpdayj9.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/1A5CBECF-2DAC-47BA-9334-0E9E61DF33C6_zpshfer6xty.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/1A5CBECF-2DAC-47BA-9334-0E9E61DF33C6_zpshfer6xty.jpg.html)

I ordered the S2R sunroof delete panel in fiberglass last night as well.

Just for fun I stole my fiance's scale and did some weighing.
OEM wire harness - 53lbs (painless 10lbs)
Sound Deadening - 40+lbs
Sunroof - 34lbs
Heater box - 15lbs
Seats - 65lbs each!

I'm going to try to get some more weights of things in the upcoming week, just because I am curious how much actually came out. That carpet is HEAVY + the airbags and all the small stuff, i'd bet there is 500lbs out of the cabin.

Nothing left to do now but put it on a trailer and send it to RallyBuild!

[jalopi]

oh my... this is gonna be one of those clean, minty fresh builds. are you building this for pro-am or something? car will be gnarly when done

in a straight line, the bmw's obviously gonna be slower than your nova. i had an old coworker who swapped a big block in, i think after he bored it out it was a 460 or 468. that thing was wicked fast. the turn in of the bmw, on the other hand, will obviously be a night and day difference :)

so apparently it's a closed group (and also called e30 drifters, not bmw drifters), but i took a screenshot of the post about the new proposed kit for you

http://s13.postimg.org/c088vplnr/face.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/bapgjcl43/full/)

[Novablue454]

Pro-Am is the end goal. And I appreciate the link! I am just really trying to pay attention to detail on this build. I've cut corners on past builds and been unhappy with the end results, so I'm being pretty anal about everything as I go. I just really want to do this one right.

[jalopi]

just a suggestion in case you weren't planning for this already - seriously consider a road race pan with the addition of an accusump. not sure which pan will fit the e46 (IIRC the sump needs to be shortened a few inches compared to an e36) but if one's available, get it. too many people i know (myself included) have lost v8 engines to oil starvation issues. the odds of something happening are low, but at the very least an accusump is significantly cheaper than another crate LS6

[Novablue454]

I will look into that! Part of the Vorshlag swap kit is the Holley pan:

http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_8_281&products_id=596

It's not cheap, so I really hope it's sufficient.

[jalopi]

ask the vorshlag guys if they know of anyone who makes a trapdoor baffle for that pan. or actually, if you call holley up they'll probably know. the baffle pictured is a very very very basic baffle, it won't do much for longitudinal or lateral G forces sloshing the oil around. who knows, you'll probably be fine with it as-is, but it doesn't hurt to be safe.

[Novablue454]

It appears Holley makes one for it.

https://www.holley.com/products/accessories/oil_pans/parts/302-10

Looks like i'll be getting that before the engine goes in!

[jalopi]

http://cdn.meme.am/instances/11518290.jpg

[bimerok]

I actually had to remove the one I installed with my LS2 swap.

When I was upgrading my LS1 to LS2 in e36 I ordered similar baffle with trap doors from a known supplier for F-Body pan. The oil starvation issue was horrible with the baffle in place at the road race track. So I had to go through removal of the oil pan to install the stock oil pan baffle. After doing that, the oil starvation actually became way less of an issue. This is my experience with baffles.

[Novablue454]

Weird. Well I will definitely be installing a pressure gauge, so i'll keep an eye on it!

[jalopi]

just double checking, but that wasn't a drag race baffle was it? because they don't do much for lateral Gs

[bimerok]

just double checking, but that wasn't a drag race baffle was it? because they don't do much for lateral Gs

No, it was not. Pictures of it in post one of my build thread.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2098938

After talking with the company and letting them know about my results with their baffle, they were nice enough to refund me the 100% of the price after I sent it back. Also I worked with them when they wanted to troubleshoot their product in my car and get every little spec of info and details, but after sending everything back I never heard about updates to the baffle. So, I'm still using stock one.

[jalopi]

double weird. it's pretty baffling that you had that issue, most people have really good results with the road race setups

[bimerok]

Yeah, I really had high hopes for it... Oh well. I just have to take it easy in the left hand turns and braking lol

[jalopi]

accusump?

[stealthbeam]

Looks good man, Looks real good Nice work

[Novablue454]

Thank you!

Not much to update. My sunroof delete panel arrived from S2R Tuning, looks to be a very nice piece and i'm stoked to install it! Unfortunately FedEx decided it was too much of a hassle to not bend it, so it arrived broken in 3 different places with obvious creases in the box.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/2E8E60DD-C71B-4B32-B2B4-19410B87E55F_zps7yfc8uwg.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/2E8E60DD-C71B-4B32-B2B4-19410B87E55F_zps7yfc8uwg.jpg.html)

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/0F90B4AE-8174-4D60-BC22-A09036CED23B_zpsuqupgh9w.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/0F90B4AE-8174-4D60-BC22-A09036CED23B_zpsuqupgh9w.jpg.html)

He is sending me out another one and we are dealing with FedEx to get it taken care of.

Car leaves next week to get the cage done, and hopefully the engine will show up in the meantime so I can get to work on that.

[JesterMX6]

ugh. that sucks dude. i've had that happen on parts before and it's always frustrating.

[jalopi]

i didn't notice a rubber seal in that box... does it come with one? i'm assuming it's supposed to have one?

[bimerok]

i didn't notice a rubber seal in that box... does it come with one? i'm assuming it's supposed to have one?

It does not come with rubber seals. It is a tight fit right against the metal edge of the opening in the roof and then you use the sealant to prevent it from leaking.

I have his carbon fiber version that I'm very happy with after 2 or 3 years. It weighted a wooping 2.8lb :)

[Novablue454]

It does not come with rubber seals. It is a tight fit right against the metal edge of the opening in the roof and then you use the sealant to prevent it from leaking.

I have his carbon fiber version that I'm very happy with after 2 or 3 years. It weighted a wooping 2.8lb :)

I'm doing a wrap once the car drives, so I didn't even think about a seal, haha

[MDRracing13]

Subscribed. Starting my LS3/CD009 swap in my e46 this weekend. Are you planning on running the painless switch panel as well? I'm curious to see how difficult the wiring will end up being.

[Novablue454]

I didn't get the painless panel because I was hoping to retain some of the factory switches, so I am going to end up just making my own panel in either the radio hole or the one underneath it.

Dropped it off at Rally.Build to get the cage started on. I'm just copying the photo example from the FD rulebook, with the addition of a rear strut bar tied in to the crossmember mounts.

Now I just have to wait on the rest of the parts while the cage is getting done.

[Spec3HOR]

Yeah, I really had high hopes for it... Oh well. I just have to take it easy in the left hand turns and braking lol

Lost an LS1 at Summit I think between the sustained high revs (rod bolt issue maybe?). I had the baffle you talked about, it never popped an oil pressure light, so interesting to see what you found. Either way I wouldnt be running an LS1 on track. Accusump is way better solution than the baffle.

[jalopi]

Lost an LS1 at Summit I think between the sustained high revs

right there with you bud, that's exactly where/how i killed my 302 e30. did you have an oil cooler on your car? because i think my oil may have gotten too hot an started foaming or something

regardless, +1 accusump again. i personally plan on wiring up a light or a buzzer that lets me know whenever the accusump valve opens up, seems like a good double insurance

[bimerok]

Lost an LS1 at Summit I think between the sustained high revs (rod bolt issue maybe?). I had the baffle you talked about, it never popped an oil pressure light, so interesting to see what you found. Either way I wouldnt be running an LS1 on track. Accusump is way better solution than the baffle.

Did you use just a stock BMW oil pressure switch for the light in your LS1 or did you have a dedicated oil gauge?

Also, not sure why you wouldn't be running LS1 at the track?

[TeXJ]

Subscribed. Starting my LS3/CD009 swap in my e46 this weekend. Are you planning on running the painless switch panel as well? I'm curious to see how difficult the wiring will end up being.

and where is your build thread?

[Novablue454]

Nothing much happening around here. Some parts slowly showing up. Engine/Trans should be leaving to come to me sometime next week, still trying to get a hold of SLR and find out where my angle kit is at. S2R hooked it up with a new sunroof and gave me a huge deal on the cracked one so I can mess with trying to put a roof scoop in it.

I removed a quick release set up from a customers 2.5RS because he didn't like the wheel placement and he gave me the quick release. Now I need to find a hub.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/1291EB82-B8D1-4E65-8CEA-A3FF6EF687E7_zpsnqyhnak4.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/1291EB82-B8D1-4E65-8CEA-A3FF6EF687E7_zpsnqyhnak4.jpg.html)

also, I found a roof scoop on the shelf in the shop off an old rally car we had, I'm going to use it as a mold of sorts and try to make a fiberglass one to graft in to the cracked sunroof, and also might try molding lexan over it for some rear window scoops as well. We'll see.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/E138FD14-D697-474E-BD29-7A271D776586_zpshhpbpajr.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/E138FD14-D697-474E-BD29-7A271D776586_zpshhpbpajr.jpg.html)

Also, the oil pan, baffle, and header bolts showed up, now Just waiting on the actual headers and the steering shaft from Vorshlag.

[jalopi]

did that baffle come with its own pickup tube?

[Novablue454]

did that baffle come with its own pickup tube?

the baffle did not, It uses the one that came with the pan.

[jalopi]

mmkay, just wondering if that might have been the issue bimerok was dealing with. apparently you need about .5" of clearance between the screen and the bottom of the pan. too much or too little clearance can lead to starvation issues

[bimerok]

mmkay, just wondering if that might have been the issue bimerok was dealing with. apparently you need about .5" of clearance between the screen and the bottom of the pan. too much or too little clearance can lead to starvation issues

The baffle does not alter the clearance between the pickup and the oil pan. The pick up and oil pan come as a combo. The baffle is only there to prevent oil slushing under braking and turning G's... So the pick up is not an issue.

[jalopi]

the pickup tube clearance is actually very critical in preventing oil starvation. since the trap doors actually restrict oil flow into the baffle to some degree, i'd argue that proper gap is just as important, if not more, than on a non-baffled car

http://s18.postimg.org/57ex0m0zt/oil.jpg (http://postimage.org/)

this is something of an extreme example, but you're literally the only guy i've ever heard from that had negative results from a baffled oil pan. something had to have been wrong for you to have the issues you had

[bimerok]

:) So what you're saying is everyone who used the baffle had to replace the f-body oil pan pick up tube? I doubt that. I installed a brand new, original GM f-body pan, pickup tube and dipstick.

On the other hand, I have never heard of anyone even bringing up aftermarket pickup tube with that baffle. It is pretty plain and simple in my case - baffle in - major oil starvation. Baffle out - minor starvation issues. My opinion, and again, it is only my opinion without any tests, is that oil had issues getting down into the baffle pool fast enough. It looked to me that the top of the baffle is designed with to much of a restriction for oil return.

It is similar to fuel starvation, where some people use dual fuel pumps inside the tank and are happy that the problem went away. Others, including myself had no fix in adding second fuel pump. It did very little for me as for a lot of others. For me, to solve the fuel starvation, I had to make myself a surge tank. That fixed my problem 100%, where I can run my tank down to fumes without having any issues (that one was annoying to have but fun to solve). A lot of it is dependent on the driving style, car setup, track you're on, etc...

[jalopi]

i'm gonna guess from your response that you didn't check your pickup tube clearance. do a little bit of reading on the subject and you might start to see what i'm talking about.

if the baffle success rate was 50/50 then i could see where you're getting your standpoint from... but during the two odd years that i've been doing research on the best way to optimize a wet oiling system, you're the first person i've met that had something bad to say about an oil pan baffle. i'm not saying that the pickup was your issue, but there definitely was some kind of problem. maybe yours had a manufacturing defect? all i do know is that the canton or moroso road race pans + an accusump seem to be the way to go for wet oiling system great success

[Novablue454]

Update, I picked up a sheet of Lexan on the way home and after doing some research on forming temps, secured it to the scoop and popped it in the oven. Don't try this, haha. It was working and I was getting pretty excited, but then the actual scoop i was using as a mold started getting soft, and then all the paint peeled off it and stuck to the lexan...so that was a waste of $40.

[jalopi]

man that sucks :(

aren't you supposed to use wood or something as a mold though?

[bimerok]

Jalopi, by now I'm fairly familiar with how LS1/2 oil pickup tubes look and if it has a slight bend or disproportion anywhere it will be pretty obvious, not to mention the steel construction is extremely sturdy. There is a huge difference between doing a research and actually trying something out and looking at it in your own car. I've talked to people who actually use their car at a road coarse track (not a drag strip as majority of people on the net) who said that this baffle did absolutely nothing for them, as well some who said they saw improvement, so... By all means, if you determined or want to use this baffle, go for it. I don't car one way or the other. All I did is shared my experience with it. I'm not advocating for or against it...


Nova,

If you're trying to use your blue scoop as a "hot" mold, have you though of trying to do a fiberglass mold from it and then use that as a template? Maybe just a few layers and it should be strong enough and not affected by heat much....

[protomor]

Dave and his oil starvation. Lose ONE 302 motor and he's preaching proper oiling at all costs.

:-*

[jalopi]

imo losing one engine to oiling issues is one too many. and just because something looks straight and sturdy doesn't mean it was produced right... machining and manufacturing tolerances are a thing too. every successful engine builder i've ever talked to or read one of their posts really stresses how neglected and important the pickup clearance is. you may have seen a bunch of different pickup tubes, but by itself can you really eyeball one that's only off by 1/2"? without actually measuring the tube you'll probably have just as much luck as slapping OE sized main/rod bearings in during a rebuild because "the crank doesn't look worn". some people magically have great luck with that, others end up spinning a bearing within the first couple thousand miles.

i will concede that improved racing doesn't even mention pickup clearance in their instructions. though that doesn't really say alot about a company that designed a product to prevent oil starvation. maybe that could be part of the problem

also, just as a reference and proof that i'm not just blowing some forum talk out of proportion, here's milodons' thoughts about pickup clearance:

"Once the pump and pickup are installed on the motor you must check for the proper pan to pickup clearance"

http://www.milodon.com/instructions/pickup-installation-chevy.pdf

stay slippery my friends

[Novablue454]

I wish I could just find something similar to purchase, but all I can find is the NACA style ducts like this:
http://www.plastics4performance.com/accessories/naca-duct.html
And I would prefer more of a scoop like these
http://www.americanmuscle.com/painted-quarterscoops-9904.html

only I want them clear so my rear windows aren't complete blind spots. Surprised no one makes them.

[jalopi]

the second scoop is dope. unfortunately that's life as a BMW owner though... too much cool stuff is not made for our cars

seems like the second scoop would be fairly straight forward to make out of wood though (for a mold)

[Novablue454]

I think I found a way to do it by building a DIY Vacuum form machine. I think this will work pretty decent. I'll also be able to duplicate some of the interior pieces to make blanks for switch panels and gauges.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-good,-cheap,-upgradeable-sheet-plastic-vacu/

UPDATE
------------------------

It worked! ...Sort of. I built the design above, but didn't have the proper clamps so I attempted to use some bigger clamps not realizing how much air was going to get around them. Also my air nozzle was too big. Shaved it down and am going to get the right clamps and try again. Also, Lexan bubbles like crazy with the heat, so I am going to try to find a sort of plastic that won't.

a quick DIY on the vaccum form.

got a 1 1/4 PVC fitting that close to fit the nozzle on my shop vac. Bored the inside of the fitting out until the shop vac was a snug fit.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/E7504B2E-34A4-4419-8054-3A56AE1E8207_zps3plmxo25.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/E7504B2E-34A4-4419-8054-3A56AE1E8207_zps3plmxo25.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/B653EEB6-28FB-42D4-AA2B-93506625B7A3_zpszwmbcbsp.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/B653EEB6-28FB-42D4-AA2B-93506625B7A3_zpszwmbcbsp.jpg.html)

Got a piece of wood that was about the size of my oven and drilled a 1 1/4 hole in it, then bored that slightly oversized so the PVC fitting would fit. Used a bit of silicone to make it airtight.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/AABBA5EE-58DB-41AB-B6C4-21A4AC73A21E_zps8wtkx4ka.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/AABBA5EE-58DB-41AB-B6C4-21A4AC73A21E_zps8wtkx4ka.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/0E5FB2BB-CA04-4650-A060-41217FC131CE_zpsx3qhwggt.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/0E5FB2BB-CA04-4650-A060-41217FC131CE_zpsx3qhwggt.jpg.html)

the finished product!
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/6AD40502-DB0B-4A6B-9597-791AFDEECF42_zps6xnzgw4w.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/6AD40502-DB0B-4A6B-9597-791AFDEECF42_zps6xnzgw4w.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/0C6A5324-6C5B-4109-9302-4F6C7A331C87_zpsklu65lij.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/0C6A5324-6C5B-4109-9302-4F6C7A331C87_zpsklu65lij.jpg.html)

Like I said, it only sort of worked. I need to get some different clamps, and some foam tape to make a decent seal around it, as well as figure out a type of plastic that won't bubble up at molding temp.

[Novablue454]

Just waiting on parts like

553000

[jalopi]

whaaaaatttt


pretty cool how that plastic turned out. sucks about the bubbles, but it's not too bad. if i had to make a bet on it, i'd say that those bubbles cropped up due to the material temperature. why use a gauge cluster though? that the new template you're using for the scoop?

[Spec3HOR]

Did you use just a stock BMW oil pressure switch for the light in your LS1 or did you have a dedicated oil gauge?

Also, not sure why you wouldn't be running LS1 at the track?


Oil didn't get hot. It was maybe 5 laps in. Early LS1s are known as having weak rod bolts. I did not have a dedicated oil gauge, so I can't tell you where specifically it was oil starving. Hell, don't really know if it was oil starvation or the rod bolt just letting go, but it definitely was having rod knock before it let go (about 6 turns before the rod went out the side of the block). Just make sure you take care of the rod bolts on theese motors.

John Khoury encountered oiling issues that didn't get fixed until dry sump. I think you will be fine with just a track day car, but when you start adding aero and the extra grip of As or R compounds, you might have different issues you never expected.

[Novablue454]

whaaaaatttt


pretty cool how that plastic turned out. sucks about the bubbles, but it's not too bad. if i had to make a bet on it, i'd say that those bubbles cropped up due to the material temperature. why use a gauge cluster though? that the new template you're using for the scoop?

yep, it was from heating the material too fast. The OEM cluster won't work with my swap, so I was just messing around with some scrap plastic to see if I could make an empty cluster to throw some Autometers or something into that would fit in the dash opening.

[Novablue454]

It feels like Christmas morning!

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/52DF3F66-C254-4418-A974-DCAC437E0AF2_zpszzv7vy8l.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/52DF3F66-C254-4418-A974-DCAC437E0AF2_zpszzv7vy8l.jpg.html)

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/EBB1DE55-00FF-4BC7-918C-BBF8956FEA20_zpskjluebvv.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/EBB1DE55-00FF-4BC7-918C-BBF8956FEA20_zpskjluebvv.jpg.html)

[bimerok]

The heart have arrived!

[Novablue454]

So, still not too much going on around here. Divorced the engine/trans to take a look at the clutch, it was in OK but holy crap the CTS-V clutch/flywheel combo is HEAVY.(google tells me its 80lbs). I am planning on some power mods next winter, so I decided to go ahead and upgrade now. I ordered the Monster Iron 11" Clutch package (rated at 950hp) with the Monster 18lb flywheel and their billet release bearing support. The clutches are built after ordering so I should see it in 2-3 weeks.

Installed the Holley LSx swap pan with the Holley trap door baffle:
windage tray mods:
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/22C87452-DE4A-4FE2-98B5-05C544EE7C42_zpsyq66ucnp.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/22C87452-DE4A-4FE2-98B5-05C544EE7C42_zpsyq66ucnp.jpg.html)

baffle installed
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/D11A156D-3923-47B0-96E8-1398F000CC05_zpszxzrns6n.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/D11A156D-3923-47B0-96E8-1398F000CC05_zpszxzrns6n.jpg.html)

pan on
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/25D20911-C9DB-4AAF-A832-FDF41419EA68_zps0jb1tatf.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/25D20911-C9DB-4AAF-A832-FDF41419EA68_zps0jb1tatf.jpg.html)

I am still waiting on Vorshlag to send out the steering shaft and the headers. Still waiting on my SLR angle kit as well. I also ordered a fire supression system from Bimmerworld. I am also going to go see if I fit in a set of Bimarco seats they have at the roll cage shop and will probably get those on order as well.

[jalopi]

http://x3.cdn03.imgwykop.pl/c3201142/comment_bS8PCJaOv6W0KGcwlzCcZI8BbM8cA05I.jpg

[Novablue454]

Went and visited the car over at Rally.Build tonight, there's a bit of progress made on the cage but my phone broke so no pictures. I mainly went to try out a seat they carry there called the Bimarco Grip. HANS compatible, FIA approved, "Halo" style, for significantly less than a comparable Sparco. It was extremely comfortable (which is rare for a race seat when you're my size) and has good reviews from people who have been using them, So I decided to get one on order. I also ordered the non halo version for the passenger seat. I am working with Rally.Build on a pair of harnesses to compliment them, as well as a steering wheel, hub, and Hydro brake. Decided just to tie in to the rears this season and then look at going dual caliper next winter.

[ButteDorFrank]

you are funny, your garage is way too clean and you take care of that floor way too much ! haha ... very very interesting build, looks like you are doing things right .... but welded diff ? looks like it's holding up but doesn't look like much reinforcement ... the middle plate is useless ... what you want to do on a welded diff is weld the spider gears together, and then weld them to the "casing", and that can take a whole lot of beating.

I would also advise against tying a hydro hand brake into your existing braking system ... now I can't talk about cars but on a stunt motorcycle, it doesn't work well when you split the line into the existing caliper, the feel of the brake is not there, it's just not working like it should.

the LS engines are so awesome, the torque is very nice, and they are super easy to make 400hp, the stock bmw engine in your videos seemed like it was lacking power/torque. won't have that problem no more. I have a lq4 and ls3 intake waiting to go into my e21 ... I am shopping now for DOM tubing for the roll cage ...

do you know what size tubing they are using on your roll cage ?

keep the updates coming, lots of good info on this thread, I think I started my thread in the wrong section !

[jalopi]

inline hydros work just fine with cars - only downside is if you want to slow the front wheels down while you're getting on the ebrake - it just really doesn't work. justin you'll be fine with an inline hydro for now, but i think having dual rear calipers is part of the proam safety inspection. or maybe that's formula d, i can't remember which.

canada guy, you'd be surprised as to how much of a beating those welded diffs will take. you may have glazed over the picture of the spider gears after seeing the metal plate, but it does look like OP welded the gears together. somewhat. i don't know how well it's gonna hold up under LS drift powah though. my plan is to figure out how to get a ford 8.8 IRS in. those are fairly cheap and you can pretty much get any gear ratio for them

[Novablue454]

He is using 1.5" per the rulebook

Roll Cage Material must be Seamless SAE 1020 or 1025 mild steel tubing, DOM, and or chromoly. ERW tubing isnot permitted. All roll cage tubing in the requirements listed below must be a minimum of 1.5 x .095-inch for allmaterials. The minus tolerance for wall thickness should not be less than .010-inch below the nominal thickness./QUOTE]

As far as the hydro goes, I know it's not the most ideal setup, which is why I say I'm going to sort out dual calipers next winter (if I have a problem with it inline). I just don't have time to add that to my to-do list before the season opener. The FD 2015 rulebook states that [QUOTE]Secondary hydraulic e-brake systems are allowed either as a fully separate system or as a pass through system.Secondary Brake system / E-brake must only operate the rear wheels. so I think I am ok to run an inline?

The LS6 is rated at 400hp stock, and 450hp with an intake, header, exhaust, and a good tune. Im hoping to make 420ish wheel for now. There are plans for a supercharger eventually though.

When I did the diff, I welded the corner gears to each other, then the center gears to the plate. I see a lot of people just weld the 4 corners of the gears together, but the way I did mine is what's recommended on a lot of the crawler forums. I don't think it will be an issue, as Jalopi pointed out in a different thread, my axles are my weak link back there.

I am such a baby about that floor, haha.

[btaLSM3]

does you dip stick lineup with the holley oil pan? If not what are you doing for that?

[bimerok]

The LS6 is rated at 400hp stock, and 450hp with an intake, header, exhaust, and a good tune. Im hoping to make 420ish wheel for now...

Not that it matters much, but these numbers are more of a wishfull thinking. With a track type of tune you'll be lucky to get 370whp.

6.0L LS2 with CAI, headers, dual 3" exhaust made just over 370 at the wheels with a very good track safe tune. Now if you're talking about dyno-queen tune, that is a different story.

[Inflame]

Based off research, I did as much as I could short of going accusump/drysump on the LS to prevent oil starvation.

-Improved Racing Baffle
-Improved racing crank scrapper
-Drilled lifter trays
-Drilled oil pan return hole
-AN-10 19 row oil coole
r-Mellings high pressure oil pump

My oil pressure is 40+ with occasional drops to 25-30 during hard left handers on 275 r-comps. I am a bit worried that with better suspension and stickier tires next year that I'll be hitting way too high lateral G's to track without an accusump.

I'd like to be able to data long my oil pressure, but I'd have to buy a $2000 data logging system.


The LS6 is rated at 400hp stock, and 450hp with an intake, header, exhaust, and a good tune. Im hoping to make 420ish wheel for now. There are plans for a supercharger eventually though.

You'll hit 370-380 depending on the dyno.I have LS6 heads, intake and cam. I made 365rwhp and 407rwtq. I'm going to sit down with my tuner and see if we can make more torque in the higher RPM's and drop the torque down in the lower RPM's, it's destroying diff bolts left and right

[Novablue454]

does you dip stick lineup with the holley oil pan? If not what are you doing for that?

I didn't have a dipstick. The Holley specifies to use the LS3 dipstick, P/N 12634547 and P/N 12625031 with their pan. The dipstick hole is in the side of the block by the starter.

- - - Updated - - -


Not that it matters much, but these numbers are more of a wishfull thinking. With a track type of tune you'll be lucky to get 370whp.

6.0L LS2 with CAI, headers, dual 3" exhaust made just over 370 at the wheels with a very good track safe tune. Now if you're talking about dyno-queen tune, that is a different story.

I mean, that's fine with me too. I don't really care much about numbers, I'd rather have a safe well set up car then a high dyno sheet. Like I mentioned earlier, engine mods are coming next season once we know the engine is in good shape.

[bimerok]

^ that is exactly right. Numbers don't mean much. It's all in your enjoyment and performance of the car.

[Novablue454]

Based off research, I did as much as I could short of going accusump/drysump on the LS to prevent oil starvation.

-Improved Racing Baffle
-Improved racing crank scrapper
-Drilled lifter trays
-Drilled oil pan return hole
-AN-10 19 row oil coole
r-Mellings high pressure oil pump

My oil pressure is 40+ with occasional drops to 25-30 during hard left handers on 275 r-comps. I am a bit worried that with better suspension and stickier tires next year that I'll be hitting way too high lateral G's to track without an accusump.

I'd like to be able to data long my oil pressure, but I'd have to buy a $2000 data logging system.



You'll hit 370-380 depending on the dyno.I have LS6 heads, intake and cam. I made 365rwhp and 407rwtq. I'm going to sit down with my tuner and see if we can make more torque in the higher RPM's and drop the torque down in the lower RPM's, it's destroying diff bolts left and right

Dang, all I did was the Holley road race trap door baffle. Couldn't you just install a mechanical gauge and point a gopro at it? Not exactly "logging" but that's what I was planning on doing at first. Hopefully that's sufficient.

[jalopi]

a 3 quart accusump will help with those oil pressure drops, it's a bit pricey at $500 for a full kit (or $300 if you have access to a lathe) but that's very cheap insurance for saving a multi-thousand dollar engine

[ButteDorFrank]

He is using 1.5" per the rulebook
[QUOTE]Roll Cage Material must be Seamless SAE 1020 or 1025 mild steel tubing, DOM, and or chromoly. ERW tubing isnot permitted. All roll cage tubing in the requirements listed below must be a minimum of 1.5 x .095-inch for allmaterials. The minus tolerance for wall thickness should not be less than .010-inch below the nominal thickness./QUOTE]

As far as the hydro goes, I know it's not the most ideal setup, which is why I say I'm going to sort out dual calipers next winter (if I have a problem with it inline). I just don't have time to add that to my to-do list before the season opener. The FD 2015 rulebook states that so I think I am ok to run an inline?

The LS6 is rated at 400hp stock, and 450hp with an intake, header, exhaust, and a good tune. Im hoping to make 420ish wheel for now. There are plans for a supercharger eventually though.

When I did the diff, I welded the corner gears to each other, then the center gears to the plate. I see a lot of people just weld the 4 corners of the gears together, but the way I did mine is what's recommended on a lot of the crawler forums. I don't think it will be an issue, as Jalopi pointed out in a different thread, my axles are my weak link back there.

I am such a baby about that floor, haha.

well that's good, I wasn't sure what rule book you were going off of ... so formula D right ?
and yeah about the plate in the diff I've read that before too, it's extra bracing, I just don't think it is necessary if you did weld the spider gears together and weld the gears to the casing... but either way, if it's not the weakest point you don't have to worry ...

well that's good to know that it works well on a car to just split the line !

I know you said your stock clutch setup weighted at around 80 lbs and that your new flywheel was 18lbs, how heavy was the complete new setup compared with the stock ?

- - - Updated - - -


inline hydros work just fine with cars - only downside is if you want to slow the front wheels down while you're getting on the ebrake - it just really doesn't work. justin you'll be fine with an inline hydro for now, but i think having dual rear calipers is part of the proam safety inspection. or maybe that's formula d, i can't remember which.

canada guy, you'd be surprised as to how much of a beating those welded diffs will take. you may have glazed over the picture of the spider gears after seeing the metal plate, but it does look like OP welded the gears together. somewhat. i don't know how well it's gonna hold up under LS drift powah though. my plan is to figure out how to get a ford 8.8 IRS in. those are fairly cheap and you can pretty much get any gear ratio for them

well hopefully the car breaks loose before the diff takes too much of a beating ... I don't think he will have a problem, it's not like a drag car with big slicks that pulls wheelies ! haha

[jalopi]

yeah, i think his axles are gonna go first. about 400 wheel is what i hear the limits of the non-M axles are

on another note, it's interesting to see LS guys actually talking about their engines putting down realistic power figures. most of the forums/posts i'm used to go something along the lines of "so i put a cam and headers on my otherwise stock LS1, now it puts down 600 wheel"

[Novablue454]

At the event I went to, there was a long straight in to a slightly uphill long bank. I was initiating at about 3000 rpm in 4th, Not sure what speed that equates to. Basically I was downshifting to almost rev limiter in 3rd, and staying at WOT through the whole bank. If I managed to carry enough speed to make it across the bank, I was bogged down to almost stalling by the end, even though I never lifted. I just want enough power to be able to maintain speed through situations like that. If 370 does it, perfect, less to worry about. If I feel like I need more, then i'll be looking in to forced induction.

I could be totally wrong, but I am thinking that drift wont pull near the G's of road race. I see guys with super wide sticky tires grip racing and saying the LS oil system is junk and can't live on a track. I am also hoping that the lack of grip might help my axles/diff last longer. The only reason I've gotten away with running a 496 Stroker through a stock 10 bolt with a spool is because it wont grab at all.

- - - Updated - - -

Oh, and I haven't gotten the clutch in the mail yet, when I do I will weigh it complete vs the stock one and let you know! And yes, I'm basing everything off the 2015 Formula D rulebook, the Pro-Am series I am going to participate in doesn't have a separate one anywhere I can find, so I assume they just use the FD one since it's an affiliate series.

- - - Updated - - -

Oh, and this showed up today!
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/712E852F-F858-496B-B862-9BBCF872D3DF_zpsqjbenlru.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/712E852F-F858-496B-B862-9BBCF872D3DF_zpsqjbenlru.jpg.html)

[Inflame]

I agree, I don't believe drifting has the same forces that are factored into road racing though I always see LS swapped drift cars with accusumps.

[Novablue454]

It's definitely something to look in to doing, that's for sure. This project is getting more and more complicated by the minute. I am now looking in to doing an electric remote water pump (Meziere WP316s has good reviews) along with their adapter plates on the block. It concerns me how small of hose all these companies use for their water pumps though.#12an (.75id) seems really small for radiator hoses. I am also toying with the idea of electric p/s, but that's a project for next winter. I'm looking in to the Chase Bays Brake Booster delete/proportioning valve as well, but I am going to test fit the engine before I go that route.

Is it necessary to remove the ABS pump, or will the brakes still function normally with it unplugged?

[jalopi]

yeah, 12AN is a bit on the small side, but just remember that the water passages going from the block to the water pump aren't that big either. i'd still use 16AN though, regardless of what the manufacturer recommends.

you also gotta remember that most of these parts are made and advertised with drag racers in mind, they don't need the cooling for as long as we do

on the subject of brakes, they'll work just fine with the ABS pump disabled, though it wouldn't be too hard to reline the car and save (maybe 5 pounds?) some weight by removing it

that booster is no bueno though. well, as they picture it anyway. for a single master setup, you really need a tandem master cylinder for safety. i mean, a single piston wilwood master will function just fine, i had one for a few years. i do cringe when i think about what could've happened if one line started leaking though

[Novablue454]

yeah, 12AN is a bit on the small side, but just remember that the water passages going from the block to the water pump aren't that big either. i'd still use 16AN though, regardless of what the manufacturer recommends.

you also gotta remember that most of these parts are made and advertised with drag racers in mind, they don't need the cooling for as long as we do

I was under the impression I needed to run like 20an or so for the coolant hoses, but every single high flow pump (both engine mounted and remote) are 12an. It's weird.

I'm not too concerned about the brake booster elimination unless the LS valve cover contacts the booster, then i'll have to start seriously looking at options.

[ButteDorFrank]

I agree, I don't believe drifting has the same forces that are factored into road racing though I always see LS swapped drift cars with accusumps.

I talked with a guy that was drifting a ls1 chaser and he said that what some people do when drifting with LS engines is run them with extra oil to help the starvation issue ... and I believe he said that even with drifting there's enough G's to run into starvation problems ...

- - - Updated - - -


It's definitely something to look in to doing, that's for sure. This project is getting more and more complicated by the minute. I am now looking in to doing an electric remote water pump (Meziere WP316s has good reviews) along with their adapter plates on the block. It concerns me how small of hose all these companies use for their water pumps though.#12an (.75id) seems really small for radiator hoses. I am also toying with the idea of electric p/s, but that's a project for next winter. I'm looking in to the Chase Bays Brake Booster delete/proportioning valve as well, but I am going to test fit the engine before I go that route.

Is it necessary to remove the ABS pump, or will the brakes still function normally with it unplugged?

just curious as what is the advantages of running an electric water pump ? what is wrong with the original one ?

[jalopi]

i mean, i'm personally using 1.5" hose on all my stuff, but i'm not using braided hose on my car (too damn expensive)

go for the 20AN then, it's probably a good idea. what i was trying to get at is if you put real front tires on a dedicated drag car and took it out drifting, most of them would have much bigger cooling issues than we do. many of the electric pump guys are only rocking the 20-30GPM pumps, as that's all they need to cool their cars. some guys even half fill their coolant passages with concrete or epoxy so that they can run big power adders without risking splitting the block. once again, absolutely no way this would work on the street or on a drift/roadrace track.

i haven't done this myself yet, but i'd do some research to see what people do for electric setups on road race cars... that's even if they do use electric water pumps on road race cars, i wouldn't know. but odds are if it works good enough on a road race car, it will probably work just fine on your drift car


butte, the real big plus about electric pumps is that you can finish your run, shut the engine off but leave the fan and water pump running (doing that with a mechanical pump will heat soak the hell out of your engine). very nice to have if you're running hot. the downside is you have to spend alot of money on an electric pump to even compare to the performance of a mechanical pump

[Novablue454]

Butte, I'm looking at an electric pump for a few reasons. #1 being that I am doing a trunk mounted radiator. From what I've found the OEM pump is about 35gpm @ 4000 rpm. The Meziere I listed above is rated at 55gpm, so it will help with flow to/from the trunk and through the much larger then OEM radiator. #2 being that I want to run AN hose from the engine to the pipes running to the trunk. With the OEM pump I will have to remove it, take it to someone with a TIG, and get AN fittings welded in to it. It just doesn't look as clean that way. #3 being that it frees up a negligible amount of HP from the engine. I'm sure it's not a noticeable amount though.

[bimerok]

Stock LS1 water pump is about 52gpm at 4000 RPM and about 58 gpm at 5000 RPM.

[Novablue454]

Stock LS1 water pump is about 52gpm at 4000 RPM and about 58 gpm at 5000 RPM.

Sweet, and the Meziere is 55gpm at idle up to redline, so I think it should be fine. I have an email in to them about their 55GPM HD remote pump, their 16"x25"x6" double pass radiator with fan and shroud, their LSx remote pump adapter plate, and the adapter fittings to run 20an hoses.

UPDATE:
After speaking with Meziere and some other people, we ended up going with:
Meziere MEZ-WP337S, Electric 55GPM Dual Outlet remote pump
Meziere MEZ-WP89U LSx Water Pump Block Adapter -12an
CFR HZ-40016-X3 Modular Aluminum Radiator 31" x 19"
CFR HZ-6064 8"x 3' Aluminum Overflow Tank
CFR HZ-1009-31 Radiator Fan Shroud
CFR HZ 1009CU 16" Electric Cooling Fan

as well as a whole bunch of AN fittings and Lines.

[Novablue454]

Got bored waiting on everything, so I decided to paint my block.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/9DEEA2FD-DCCD-4530-91BB-39584259AC1D_zps55omeroh.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/9DEEA2FD-DCCD-4530-91BB-39584259AC1D_zps55omeroh.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/FD093F3E-30EF-48F4-89C0-C7EF73BEC886_zpsnowzhq80.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/FD093F3E-30EF-48F4-89C0-C7EF73BEC886_zpsnowzhq80.jpg.html)
Meziere water pump fittings came in (obviously these 90s aren't going to work)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/7E921CEF-17FE-4F33-9C87-B966691A05BC_zpsasabuzfq.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/7E921CEF-17FE-4F33-9C87-B966691A05BC_zpsasabuzfq.jpg.html)
Steam Vent Kit
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/1685FFFC-70CA-4C83-B6F7-2FFC8EFE1815_zps0vy279f7.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/1685FFFC-70CA-4C83-B6F7-2FFC8EFE1815_zps0vy279f7.jpg.html)
Radiator
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/2FAE1CBB-4883-4222-BA9C-D4A94A3D840D_zpsb2oncslg.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/2FAE1CBB-4883-4222-BA9C-D4A94A3D840D_zpsb2oncslg.jpg.html)
Fan and shroud
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/B02A1BE0-F97A-4492-9C0F-AEC78FE03B76_zpsg3ohiclk.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/B02A1BE0-F97A-4492-9C0F-AEC78FE03B76_zpsg3ohiclk.jpg.html)
Radiator parts
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/F61E22A1-A866-450A-9E11-EA86446CA5EA_zps6f6fuovn.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/F61E22A1-A866-450A-9E11-EA86446CA5EA_zps6f6fuovn.jpg.html)
Granatelli 0 Ohm wires with heat shields
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/69644BBC-8094-4D81-ABA5-9B1260886B79_zpsjmjkm8rj.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/69644BBC-8094-4D81-ABA5-9B1260886B79_zpsjmjkm8rj.jpg.html)
Meziere Remote water pump
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/3BE9FE5F-8C09-4686-8FFB-9E117B458593_zpshv2arxkt.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/3BE9FE5F-8C09-4686-8FFB-9E117B458593_zpshv2arxkt.jpg.html)

The Monster Clutch set up came in as well, but there was a miscommunication and they sent out the standard weight flywheel instead of the lightweight, but they got it taken care of right away and the correct one should be here early next week.

Still waiting on my SLR Angle kit, and the Steering Shaft and headers from Vorshlag.

[Novablue454]

So when the engine arrived the p/s reservoir had been damaged (a broken hose barb). One of my friends just got a mill, and he offered to machine me up a new one. I am converting it to -AN fittings so I can run all AN lines to/from the rack as well. Here is his initial drawing

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/0C629E7D-B452-4003-A376-6D8F2CF3FF03_zps****qxiv.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/0C629E7D-B452-4003-A376-6D8F2CF3FF03_zps****qxiv.jpg.html)

a look inside it
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/89CC2673-D444-4FE3-BC94-F666BBB5D6F8_zpsv3uh0wc5.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/89CC2673-D444-4FE3-BC94-F666BBB5D6F8_zpsv3uh0wc5.jpg.html)
and the finished product
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/1CB6F339-B199-4487-A84A-CD315F20528D_zpsqkd7zazr.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/1CB6F339-B199-4487-A84A-CD315F20528D_zpsqkd7zazr.jpg.html)
I think it turned out awesome!

Got it mounted up on the engine, I also converted the pump fittings to AN using a -6an Borgeson P/S fitting (925120) and an Earls Performance -10an compression adapter.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/6C559A1A-F4FA-485B-B133-0BF6CFA5FF31_zps27cpbwii.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/6C559A1A-F4FA-485B-B133-0BF6CFA5FF31_zps27cpbwii.jpg.html)

I also got the steam vent kit installed, and went ahead and painted the valve covers/throttle body/coil brackets. I think it's looking a bit better then before!
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/F5E72570-398F-49AF-AF70-EBA621CB0DE6_zpsyeasfbv9.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/F5E72570-398F-49AF-AF70-EBA621CB0DE6_zpsyeasfbv9.jpg.html)

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/EC8F1E16-1280-480B-82B1-459BD0B2C7B1_zpsuqemiwh8.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/EC8F1E16-1280-480B-82B1-459BD0B2C7B1_zpsuqemiwh8.jpg.html)

I picked up a set of CXracing headers from a member here in case Vorshlag decides to never make mine (seems like that's the case), and also Monster swapped out the 28lb flywheel sent for the 18lb one. Got an email that my Vorshlag steering shaft shipped today too!

[ButteDorFrank]

nice ! .... interesting choice of color
good to see it coming together

[Novablue454]

Well, I was going through photos trying to find a color of roll cage that I liked with a black exterior - that will also match the colors of my wrap when it's done, and settled on purple.
555168
555169
Plus, It matches my dad's old drag car.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/1508502_10201176603400274_512247616_n_zpsodefdoqa. jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/1508502_10201176603400274_512247616_n_zpsodefdoqa. jpg.html)

[jalopi]

lol that makes two guys with interesting color choices for their swap parts

guess i gotta come up with something weird, don't wanna be left behind

[ButteDorFrank]

I actually love purple for some reason ... it will look good

[bimerok]

Is it the angle on the pictures or the new power steering reservoir sits a lot higher? If it is much higher, check for hood clearance, it gets a little tighter in that area (at least on e36s).

Nice progress!

[Novablue454]

Is it the angle on the pictures or the new power steering reservoir sits a lot higher? If it is much higher, check for hood clearance, it gets a little tighter in that area (at least on e36s).

Nice progress!

Thanks! I think its just the angle of the pictures.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/C513CB8E-49A5-483F-9DB3-B57A9B6C3E27_zpsnxwtmevg.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/C513CB8E-49A5-483F-9DB3-B57A9B6C3E27_zpsnxwtmevg.jpg.html)

[Novablue454]

Well, the headers showed up, got them installed.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/062EA63C-18FB-4EAF-96F4-8FCE60F4FC4F_zpshtlxn9z2.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/062EA63C-18FB-4EAF-96F4-8FCE60F4FC4F_zpshtlxn9z2.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/923A5C07-5C2B-441E-B84A-CDB64B363F66_zpsxsntwrre.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/923A5C07-5C2B-441E-B84A-CDB64B363F66_zpsxsntwrre.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/37AA4288-5295-4A0D-9773-6C7779FFC51E_zpstrwuz84v.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/37AA4288-5295-4A0D-9773-6C7779FFC51E_zpstrwuz84v.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/EF6AEDA5-885B-443C-8CB5-6B7835374B9C_zpsfcshtas4.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/EF6AEDA5-885B-443C-8CB5-6B7835374B9C_zpsfcshtas4.jpg.html)
and the rear adjustable camber arms from Turner showed up
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/C85C3256-E928-4593-A16B-2A01E8436567_zpszxcwkble.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/C85C3256-E928-4593-A16B-2A01E8436567_zpszxcwkble.jpg.html)
Went to make a payment on some parts from the roll cage shop today and take some measurements for the bash bar. Still no bars in the car. Bummer. Still waiting on my SLR angle kit (almost 2 months now) and the projected completion time for the roll cage is mid-december. Bummer, I am dying to get this engine installed!

[Novablue454]

Got a start on my front bash bar today. It's not the best looking but I have no doubt it will do its job.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/53B54282-B3D2-468F-936A-28F590FBAC25_zpsvqquzxh6.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/53B54282-B3D2-468F-936A-28F590FBAC25_zpsvqquzxh6.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/98AFE7F9-EB4A-48A7-A5F8-5459FEAFF9A2_zpsni5gm9z7.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/98AFE7F9-EB4A-48A7-A5F8-5459FEAFF9A2_zpsni5gm9z7.jpg.html)

[jeepster]

Couple pointers from experience:
I have a LS6 stroker, forged internals, cam, tune, patriot stage II heads, LS6 intake etc. Made 420WHP with 415 TQ. These numbers were in denver. I use AIR (clint) for all my LS tunes in Arvada! Turns out the intake is my limiting factor right now! Also we gained 9 WHP by switching from and ITG foam filter to a similar sized Amsoil Air filter (Im a dealer now if you need one)

I also use the moroso remote filter LS pan. I have never had an oil starvation issue at all! two motors both with stock oil pumps 0 problems! I also prefer the moroso pan for the fact that its steel and it will dent rather than explode!

I didnt notice in the thread, but what ps pump are you using? I highly recommend using the BMW pump over the GM. There is a substantial pressure difference.

Also, I am running stock subframe, subframe bushings, and stock 325is axles in my E36 with no issues! 190k on the bushings and going strong LOL.

I need to stop by and check out this build!

[protomor]

How would you easily fit on the BMW PS pump? Seems like a lot of work for not much gain.

[Novablue454]

For now I am using the CTS-V pump, but apparently they are failure prone so I'll likely be changing to the KRC pump when it fails, or going electric.

Where is AIR at? I was planning on using Finish Line Performance to do the tuning. They did the tune on my Nova and I really liked their work as well as them.

I went with the Holley pan simply because Vorshlag says you HAVE to use it with their swap kit, and no other ones will fit.

You're welcome to any time! I should have the chassis back from the cage shop by Christmas (I hope).

[jeepster]

How would you easily fit on the BMW PS pump? Seems like a lot of work for not much gain.

I actually make a direct fit bracket! Its $100 It even uses the stock lines!

pm me for details

- - - Updated - - -


For now I am using the CTS-V pump, but apparently they are failure prone so I'll likely be changing to the KRC pump when it fails, or going electric.

Where is AIR at? I was planning on using Finish Line Performance to do the tuning. They did the tune on my Nova and I really liked their work as well as them.

I went with the Holley pan simply because Vorshlag says you HAVE to use it with their swap kit, and no other ones will fit.

You're welcome to any time! I should have the chassis back from the cage shop by Christmas (I hope).
AIR is American Intense Racing in Arvada. I have had a CTS-v and I did change the pump twice in four years! The BMW pump fits really easy with my simple bracket and uses the stock lines. Also I had the holley pan and I took it back off. It hangs way to low IMO. My first event gouged it pretty bad! I made my own headers, but my moroso pan fits awesome with a ton of ground clearance!

[protomor]

Maybe one day. My LS2 pump apparently puts out about what the bmw rack needs. At least my PS feels fine.

[MikeE36]

Awesome build thread! 370-400whp will be plenty for what you want for now. You can run tall gearing and 265 tires with no problem at that power.

Mike

[e30junky]

This is an awesome build! Great job!

[Novablue454]

Awesome build thread! 370-400whp will be plenty for what you want for now. You can run tall gearing and 265 tires with no problem at that power.

Mike


This is an awesome build! Great job!


Thanks guys!

i got back from vacation today to find out that the part of this whole car I am most excited for showed up!

SLR Ultra angle kit + Adjustable Lollipops
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/423433D9-0B3B-4FF8-8F3E-527E4AA90740_zpszddebkps.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/423433D9-0B3B-4FF8-8F3E-527E4AA90740_zpszddebkps.jpg.html)

Now I am just sitting around waiting to get the chassis back.

[jeepster]

Looks like I had better swing by and pick up that SLR kit. I mean we should test it out on my car before you waste time installing it on yours. You know, just for precaution!

[Novablue454]

haha! don't worry, I'll let you take it around the track a few times! Word is I'll have the chassis back by Christmas.

[e30junky]

Count me in too!

[Novablue454]

Stopped by Rally.Build today to get the seat placement marked to build the mounts, as well as the steering wheel spacing figured out. The cage is a bit over half done, still needs a dash bar, harness bar, door bars, and rear supports, but the seats are there, the wheel and quick release / short hub are there, and the handbrake is there! Just waiting until January to order the harnesses so I can get another year out of them. They are thinking i'll be able to pick the car up Tuesday night!

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/92B626DE-D71E-4791-8394-4004A5771EB2_zpskbex1o0j.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/92B626DE-D71E-4791-8394-4004A5771EB2_zpskbex1o0j.jpg.html)

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/8F700327-B0B9-466E-9C8F-9F4312CB4A6A_zpscmhduk7e.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/8F700327-B0B9-466E-9C8F-9F4312CB4A6A_zpscmhduk7e.jpg.html)

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/6BCF8FF0-CCBE-4F43-9739-151D1FE4DE8C_zpsf2xq6jfd.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/6BCF8FF0-CCBE-4F43-9739-151D1FE4DE8C_zpsf2xq6jfd.jpg.html)

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/87CFACCE-2138-4B5B-AA5A-10742C0AF8F0_zpsdejhjaca.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/87CFACCE-2138-4B5B-AA5A-10742C0AF8F0_zpsdejhjaca.jpg.html)

[Novablue454]

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/AF868D43-ECDB-49FD-A7FD-C316A26406B6_zpsklua2loo.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/AF868D43-ECDB-49FD-A7FD-C316A26406B6_zpsklua2loo.jpg.html)

This sure is going to suck getting in and out of!

[Massive Lee]

Can't wait to see how the engine fits in there, and the clearance with the brake booster. ;-)

[Novablue454]

Rumor has it it fits no problem. If not Chase Bays makes a nice booster delete I've been eye balling.

[jalopi]

i'd like to address two things here:

1. lee - you're a smart guy, why do you keep trying to promote a booster delete on cars that don't need it? it's well documented that LS and 302 swapped e36/46 vehicles can retain their brake boosters with zero issues. the only people i've seen complain about this is the jags-that-run people, and i think they had the engine right up against the firewall or something, unlike vorshlag

2. that chase bays booster delete might look nice and pretty, but it isn't a very good design IMO. aside from the plate being on the thin side, it comes with/is designed for a single pot master cylinder. this is the equivalent of banging a broad raw, who claims it's a safe day, "probably". that, and a 7/8" master is gonna need some fairly serious pedal force to stop normally

if you wind up needing to delete your booster (which you shouldn't) order up lee's old style booster delete and a mk1 golf 17mm master. with a simple 330i brake upgrade, it'll feel like you're driving a stock boosted car again

[doktor b]

awesome thread/build.
i'm on the fence about selling my 5.3 (and cd009) and just buying an LS1 or LS6 dropout with a T56.
hoping to see you get this thing driving soon!

[Novablue454]

My problem at the moment (first of hundreds, i'm sure) is that I can not figure out a way to mount the p/s pump and alternator. Every accessory drive on the market rely's on the water pump pulley being there, and without it routes the belt either right through the middle of the throttle body or right across the water inlet/outlet ports on the block where it would interfere with the hose. I thought I got it figured out last night, but the belt will rub on the lower alt mount bolt, so no luck. I'm not really sure what to do. I'd like to run it set up like this, only with the p/s pump where I have the alternator, and the alternator around where I have the P/S pump. The smaller alt pulley would give me more wiggle room around the water ports, and moving the p/s pump lower would give me room for the AN p/s line from the res to the pump (they are too close right now)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/C0328551-2F2D-4E98-AEE4-082DF986AE0B_zpsbct0a7nx.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/C0328551-2F2D-4E98-AEE4-082DF986AE0B_zpsbct0a7nx.jpg.html)

[doktor b]

Can you mount a pulley/roller in the position of the top right alternator bracket bolt?
(next to the top alternator bolt)

[jalopi]

i can't think of anything other than this:

http://s30.postimg.org/ygx4iis81/C0328551_2_F2_D_4_E98_AEE4_082_DF986_AE0_B_zpsbct0 a7nx.jpg (http://postimage.org/)

every other belt setup i can think of either hits the tensioner you've made or interferes with the water lines

[Novablue454]

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/66377A6D-19FF-400B-A417-F15F1A4CBDCB_zpszmorlhcw.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/66377A6D-19FF-400B-A417-F15F1A4CBDCB_zpszmorlhcw.jpg.html)

This is the best I can come up with, but I'm worried that the belt won't make good enough contact with the alt pulley and will slide on it rather then spin it. If I could find a smaller diameter pulley for the lower one, I might be set.

[Iteachgolf]

You'd have to remove the tensioner to change the belt but couldn't you simply go above the bottom roller rather than below it?

[protomor]

558707

[e30junky]

558707
+1

[jalopi]

558707

http://replycandy.com/wp-content/uploads/This-Guy-Knows-His-Shit-Meme.jpg

[bimerok]

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/66377A6D-19FF-400B-A417-F15F1A4CBDCB_zpszmorlhcw.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/66377A6D-19FF-400B-A417-F15F1A4CBDCB_zpszmorlhcw.jpg.html)

This is the best I can come up with, but I'm worried that the belt won't make good enough contact with the alt pulley and will slide on it rather then spin it. If I could find a smaller diameter pulley for the lower one, I might be set.

I think instead of finding smaller lower pulley, you need to find a smooth one instead of ribbed so that the belt can go over it with the smooth/back side adding good wrap on the alternator...

[Novablue454]

I think bimmerok and iteachgolf solved it. Now to find another smooth idler and measure for a belt!

Thanks for the ideas guys!

[Novablue454]

Picked up the car and some parts last night!

Bimarco FIA seats (one halo one without)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/A719924B-AADA-44AC-8906-9DDA2979F13D_zpsx6vcvs3l.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/A719924B-AADA-44AC-8906-9DDA2979F13D_zpsx6vcvs3l.jpg.html)

18" hydraulic handbrake
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/C2C055C9-01A8-42DB-AD54-D0F9C09327A7_zpsisqpjrhk.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/C2C055C9-01A8-42DB-AD54-D0F9C09327A7_zpsisqpjrhk.jpg.html)

and a roll cage! You can also see the OMP wheel and NRG quick release in the photos.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/E89F2C7A-3C10-4B72-AACE-98535528F2D0_zpsj7ree81w.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/E89F2C7A-3C10-4B72-AACE-98535528F2D0_zpsj7ree81w.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/A335A20F-6885-4F19-95B1-938CB91B248C_zpsbypzonoa.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/A335A20F-6885-4F19-95B1-938CB91B248C_zpsbypzonoa.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/AFD8FAFA-36CD-438D-B94F-A2D43DEB435B_zpszn9esh54.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/AFD8FAFA-36CD-438D-B94F-A2D43DEB435B_zpszn9esh54.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/46442849-99E9-4E3C-B5F7-490571DC0EF2_zpsvaumgqbd.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/46442849-99E9-4E3C-B5F7-490571DC0EF2_zpsvaumgqbd.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/6C246EFC-4032-4DC3-95D4-01598D1FF755_zpsah79xmgl.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/6C246EFC-4032-4DC3-95D4-01598D1FF755_zpsah79xmgl.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/D40DEE37-35F5-4756-A715-6B155A9C2749_zpspgbmluuh.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/D40DEE37-35F5-4756-A715-6B155A9C2749_zpspgbmluuh.jpg.html)

Time to start moving along on this build, summer is only a few short months away!

[Novablue454]

Got off work early tonight and decided to install the SLR Ultra kit.

Before/After from above
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/062B5B9E-86D7-4504-95AA-0D7E550460F7_zpsj5mrunjq.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/062B5B9E-86D7-4504-95AA-0D7E550460F7_zpsj5mrunjq.jpg.html)
from the front
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/5A79BD87-D3CD-4F4E-8C68-81F38695D4FE_zpsvpt11im7.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/5A79BD87-D3CD-4F4E-8C68-81F38695D4FE_zpsvpt11im7.jpg.html)
and from underneath
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/19F34001-E423-47F3-8133-31F623FF00C1_zpseqrisbhs.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/19F34001-E423-47F3-8133-31F623FF00C1_zpseqrisbhs.jpg.html)

The kit still has more to go, but my tires are hitting the frame and swaybar, so looks like some new wheels will be next on the list.

I am not sure what I am supposed to do for end links with this kit? The control arms have tabs on them for the end link, but mine are really long and attach to the coilovers. With the new angles they don't work in their original positions at all, and are way too long to go to the control arm.

[Iteachgolf]

Get e36 non m3 end links. Get wheels that are et20-et0 up front

[protomor]

The coilover link for the sway bar causes binding on high angle. So the solution is to link the sway bar to the control arm. You need non M links like mentioned above. But that also makes your front sway bar much less effective FYI.

[Iteachgolf]

The coilover link for the sway bar causes binding on high angle. So the solution is to link the sway bar to the control arm. You need non M links like mentioned above. But that also makes your front sway bar much less effective FYI.

Definitely makes it effectively softer. Can easily run a bigger bar to make it just as still or even stiffer than it was

[Novablue454]

So like these?
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-2271-standard-front-sway-bar-link-for-e30-318i-325i-e36-318i-325i-328i-z3.aspx

Doesn't seem to be any beefier versions of the short ones out there.

[protomor]

Yea I think those. The links aren't what's beefier, you need a beefier sway bar to make up for the change in mounting location on the control arm. Too bad I've never found versions of that link with spherical bearings. Plz someone correct me if I'm wrong. plz plz.

[Novablue454]

Yeah, I was looking for something more like this, heck, I may have to take some measurements as these almost seem like you could make them work.
http://www.jscspeed.com/catalog/Whiteline_Front_Rear_End_Links_for_89_98_Nissan_24 0SX-7615-1.html

[Novablue454]

Well, finding wheels to work with this kit is turning into a huge PITA. My LTW's are 17x8.5 with a +41mm offset. Major contact front and rear. Drift_Dr was nice enough to let me borrow a pair of Style 42s (17x8 +20) and those clear in the rear but still contact the sway bar in the front. With a 20mm washer stack spacer (effectively 0 offset) they still hit the sway bar and frame in the front. So it seems I am going to be stuck with something like a +20 wheel and a 30mm spacer, as no one makes a -10 offset wheel for a reasonable price.

Took a break from that and got started on the rear radiator mounts.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/3EB90264-488D-40EA-862C-C8160274A5AE_zpsfbwwpwlo.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/3EB90264-488D-40EA-862C-C8160274A5AE_zpsfbwwpwlo.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/FCAE17C9-33CA-4E4A-A9AF-50FF8C4F34AC_zpsersis7pj.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/FCAE17C9-33CA-4E4A-A9AF-50FF8C4F34AC_zpsersis7pj.jpg.html)

fits in there perfect with some thick rubber from a slick innertube isolating the radiator from the steel bracket. Tomorrow I am going to finish up the upper brackets.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/AF95B4A7-3F72-4866-A042-3D45B03909AC_zpsnuokkbkz.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/AF95B4A7-3F72-4866-A042-3D45B03909AC_zpsnuokkbkz.jpg.html)

[jalopi]

maybe a dumb question, but have you "roughed in" the alignment since you installed the angle kit? via math, you should have more clearance than me, but it seems like you're having way more fitment issues. could be you've got too much toe out and that's causing you to hit the frame

[Novablue454]

I have not. Worth a try! But i mean i am hitting it HARD, not just grazing it, so I think I am still going to end up with a Style 5 + H&R 30mm + 215/40 to clear.

Got the rear radiator mounts done, just waiting for the paint to dry, then I am going to permanently attach the rubber to the lower portion.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/65391643-1C2B-46C1-8991-9E85BBD62D9B_zpspnvhmaho.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/65391643-1C2B-46C1-8991-9E85BBD62D9B_zpspnvhmaho.jpg.html)

Also got the Turner rear camber arms installed

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/020B8CDC-6870-4D98-8EEE-7D54509DB998_zps9hrpo0yz.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/020B8CDC-6870-4D98-8EEE-7D54509DB998_zps9hrpo0yz.jpg.html)

Now, I see in the rule book the trunk area must be "completely sealed to prevent the passage of fluids or flames from enteringthe driver’s compartment by a permanently mounted steel or aluminum bulkhead." Is there any rule I am missing about how it has to be attached? I want to panel bond it and rivet around the perimeter if that's allowable.

[jalopi]

sounds permanent enough to me. you could always ask one of the drivers how they've got their cars set up, i've heard chris forsberg in particular will actually respond to questions like this. most drivers are probably fairly willing to answer non-derp questions like this too.

either that or wait for protomor to chime in. he spends alot of time around fd cars, could be he knows the answer

[protomor]

I mean I've seen stuff. I wouldn't say I'm a rules expert. Ours was rivetted on. I don't think there was any bonding. Just can't be any huge gaping holes for stuff to get at you.

[Novablue454]

Perfect. I have the worst time trying to weld to this 20g sheet on the body of this car. Thanks!

[Mikestokman]

Bit late, but why not message Chelsea denofa and ask for his wheel specs? He's running a 245/40 with swaybar and has no clearance issues, so thand probably the best place to get your answer from

[Novablue454]

Bit late, but why not message Chelsea denofa and ask for his wheel specs? He's running a 245/40 with swaybar and has no clearance issues, so thand probably the best place to get your answer from

That would have been a good idea, but I know he's running 18's. I lurked his build thread on here for any hints and noticed he is running some big spacers as well. I also tried emailing Sean SLR asking what he recommended but no reply yet there.

[Novablue454]

Well, I scored a good deal on a set of Style 5's with 215/40's on 2 and 195/40 on the other 2. I'll have to replace the tires, but it will help me with deciding which tire size to run. I also ordered 30mm H&R spacers and 95mm Turner wheel studs to go with them, and finally the HARD motorsport fender flare kit to (hopefully) cover them.

Got a little bit done on the car tonight. The idler pulleys for my stupid serp belt finally showed up, so I'll hopefully be getting a belt on it tomorrow.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/92A8B4F6-99AB-469A-A2BB-A7BB641033C1_zpshrdigwct.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/92A8B4F6-99AB-469A-A2BB-A7BB641033C1_zpshrdigwct.jpg.html)

Installed the Vorshlag steering shaft

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/4017A649-3BE2-4B14-9063-ED9343B5A5AA_zpszvzdtveu.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/4017A649-3BE2-4B14-9063-ED9343B5A5AA_zpszvzdtveu.jpg.html)

and played with the plasma cutter some cutting out the rear bulkhead (bonus cage color sneak peek)

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/B96A5BE9-4E12-4AC0-955E-0F96056663FF_zpskobpymjc.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/B96A5BE9-4E12-4AC0-955E-0F96056663FF_zpskobpymjc.jpg.html)

As some of you remember, I was going through hell trying to figure out a gauge solution, then tonight it dawned on me. If my engine harness has a DLC, I can just plug in an OBD cable and use Torque on a tablet! Sure enough it has the connector and posts over on LS1tech have PSI Conversion saying it works, so I am going to order up a Nexus 7 and mount it where the stereo/hvac used to be. I'll get a blank cluster block off from HARD as well, because I still want to run a mechanical temp and oil pressure gauge just to be safe.

[bimerok]

The digital gauge will look cool, but not too useful, especially on the track. OBD2 is way too slow for this.

[protomor]

Torque is annoying and the glare from the screen made me annoyed. There is a noticeable lag. My arduino has a super fast refresh time in comparison. I was so happy with that. I just need to finish coding it.

[Novablue454]

Bummer. Were you using the free version or the paid version? I've never used either but it seemed on other forums a lot of people had problems with the free version, and also the Bluetooth dongles were adding in some delay, so I was hoping an actual cable would speed it up a bit over Bluetooth

[protomor]

I have the paid version. I still use it or quick diagnostics and clearing codes easier than with a regular palm device. No matter what, I always got hefty delays with torque. Not sure why. Could just be the bluetooth baud rate.

[Mikestokman]

I can't imagine putting it in the centre of the dash being a good idea either , just think of using your phone on a sunny day, makes it hard to see anything. You're balling out on everything else for the car, why not use a racepac cluster or something of the like?

[jalopi]

I have not. Worth a try! But i mean i am hitting it HARD

do a "four post string alignment" and try it out then. gauging toe can be tough, especially when you've got as much poke as you [presumably] do. assuming your toe is off by about 2* (very easy to be that off after replacing so many suspension parts), roughing in the alignment will immediately net you about 21mm of extra clearance

maybe this isn't your issue, but you've got ultra-length arms and a reasonable wheel width/offset so... i'd say the alignment is definitely worth doing before buying new wheels/tires

[Novablue454]

I can't imagine putting it in the centre of the dash being a good idea either , just think of using your phone on a sunny day, makes it hard to see anything. You're balling out on everything else for the car, why not use a racepac cluster or something of the like?

There are lots of people out there using Ipads as stereo head unit's in their dash, and there are tons of anti-glare screen protectors out there. Here's a screen grab from a video on how to install in an E46

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8KjlvHGIK6g
559441
Frankly, the ones I looked at were insanely expensive. (1999.00 and 2299.00 on bimmerworld) No where even in the same world as a $150 Nexus 7 and an OBD cable. The IQ3 might be doable, but you still have to purchase a wiring harness for each sending unit, and all new sending units, so that price is going to go up exponentially to actually make it function.



But, if it wont work, it wont work, and back to analog autometers I go! haha

- - - Updated - - -


do a "four post string alignment" and try it out then. gauging toe can be tough, especially when you've got as much poke as you [presumably] do. assuming your toe is off by about 2* (very easy to be that off after replacing so many suspension parts), roughing in the alignment will immediately net you about 21mm of extra clearance

maybe this isn't your issue, but you've got ultra-length arms and a reasonable wheel width/offset so... i'd say the alignment is definitely worth doing before buying new wheels/tires

I will give that a shot tonight! I'm pretty sure I will still have to change wheels though. Every car I see with the SLR is running around a 20mm offset. I'd be stoked if I could keep my +41's, but I am not getting my hopes up.

[audioscience10]

There are lots of people out there using Ipads as stereo head unit's in their dash, and there are tons of anti-glare screen protectors out there. Here's a screen grab from a video on how to install in an E46

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8KjlvHGIK6g
559441
Frankly, the ones I looked at were insanely expensive. (1999.00 and 2299.00 on bimmerworld) No where even in the same world as a $150 Nexus 7 and an OBD cable. The IQ3 might be doable, but you still have to purchase a wiring harness for each sending unit, and all new sending units, so that price is going to go up exponentially to actually make it function.



But, if it wont work, it wont work, and back to analog autometers I go! haha


I am actually running a tablet as my gauges from megasquirt. With an anti glare protector its not too bad if you crank the brightness up.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j102/higdon2k3/20150909_172306.jpg (http://s78.photobucket.com/user/higdon2k3/media/20150909_172306.jpg.html)

[jalopi]

ooohh.... yeah, +41 is pretty bad man. you could use em just fine with like, 2.5" monster spacers, though that's a bit crazy

audioscience you've got a pretty cool "gauge cluster" man, pretty slick. does the speedo work?

[Novablue454]

From what I am seeing, the refresh rate is limited to what the ECM can handle, not the OBD connection, however some OBD connectors are slower then others. The list of approved connectors on the Torque website list the hard cable from Scangauge at 165 pids/sec, the approved bluetooth ones are 100 pid/sec, and the knock offs go down from there. Also, there is an option on Torque to us GPS for speedo.

Even if it isn't accurate enough for live gauges, I still think it would be nice to have in the dash for live sensor data, CEL reading, could even run Harry's lap timer on it (as long as the tablet has GPS, which the Nexus 7 does) and overlay gopro footage with PIP.

[protomor]

I agree. that's what I'm planning on doing with my arduino. The torque app annoyed me too much.

Here's mine - https://www.instagram.com/p/81NCsBTAcw/

[Novablue454]

That looks awesome!

I think I am going to get the Nexus 7. Harry's says it isn't optimized for tablet as most don't have GPS units in them, but the nexus does and some other forums say it runs fine on there. If Torque annoys me a lot of people seem to like Shadowdash as well. Now to take some measurements of my dash and see where I can get it to fit!

[jalopi]

Here's mine - https://www.instagram.com/p/81NCsBTAcw/

lol... the thrusting penis of justice

[audioscience10]

ooohh.... yeah, +41 is pretty bad man. you could use em just fine with like, 2.5" monster spacers, though that's a bit crazy

audioscience you've got a pretty cool "gauge cluster" man, pretty slick. does the speedo work?

Thanks. Yeah what novablue said. unfortunately my tablet doesn't have gps built in, so no my speedo doesn't work. I just deleted it from the cluster. I am going to install a garmin where the ac controls used to be though.

[Novablue454]

Well, I found an already made bezel, so I think I'm going to try it. If it doesn't work out, I can always just put Fast and Furious movies on it to watch in the staging lines!

http://mybimmer.net/CarPCLCD.htm

[protomor]

$150? Did I read that right? Bah!

[Novablue454]

$150? Did I read that right? Bah!

The one for the Nexus is $160, but HARD charges $80 for a solid cover plate and I'm sure I'd massacre that trying to dremel it out and make the nexus mount in it.

- - - Updated - - -

Picked up a set of Style 5's last night. The previous owner had some 195/40's on 2 of them and 205/50's on the other two. With a 15mm spacer, the 205/50 hits but the 195/40 has plenty of room. Obviously I wouldn't run the 195s, but it gives me some hope that I can run a decent sized tire with the 30mm spacers.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/BB530A88-1743-41D2-9F72-59ECFF6288F6_zpshpeveeng.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/BB530A88-1743-41D2-9F72-59ECFF6288F6_zpshpeveeng.jpg.html)

I'm posting tire size conversions below for my own reference.

23" Tire Diameter
125/70R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/125-70R17.htm) = 23.9X4.9R17
195/40R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/195-40R17.htm) = 23.1x7.7R17
195/45R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/195-45R17.htm) = 23.9x7.7R17
205/40R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/205-40R17.htm) = 23.5x8.1R17
215/35R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/215-35R17.htm) = 23x8.5R17
215/40R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/215-40R17.htm) = 23.8x8.5R17
225/35R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/225-35R17.htm) = 23.2x8.9R17
245/35R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/245-35R17.htm) = 23.8x9.7R17



24" Tire Diameter
125/80R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/125-80R17.htm) = 24.9X4.9R17
135/70R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/135-70R17.htm) = 24.4X5.3R17
205/45R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/205-45R17.htm) = 24.3x8.1R17
215/45R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/215-45R17.htm) = 24.6x8.5R17
225/40R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/225-40R17.htm) = 24.1x8.9R17
235/40R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/235-40R17.htm) = 24.4x9.3R17
245/40R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/245-40R17.htm) = 24.7x9.7R17
275/35R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/275-35R17.htm) = 24.6x10.8R17



25" Tire Diameter
135/80R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/135-80R17.htm) = 25.5X5.3R17
145/70R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/145-70R17.htm) = 25X5.7R17
155/70R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/155-70R17.htm) = 25.5X6.1R17
205/50R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/205-50R17.htm) = 25.1x8.1R17
205/55R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/205-55R17.htm) = 25.9x8.1R17
215/50R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/215-50R17.htm) = 25.5X8.5R17
225/45R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/225-45R17.htm) = 25x8.9R17
225/50R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/225-50R17.htm) = 25.9x8.9R17
235/45R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/235-45R17.htm) = 25.3x9.3R17
245/45R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/245-45R17.htm) = 25.7x9.7R17
255/40R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/255-40R17.htm) = 25x10R17
265/40R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/265-40R17.htm) = 25.3x10.4R17
275/40R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/275-40R17.htm) = 25.7x10.8R17
295/35R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/295-35R17.htm) = 25.1x11.6R17
315/35R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/315-35R17.htm) = 25.7x12.4R17



26" Tire Diameter
135/90R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/135-90R17.htm) = 26.6X5.3R17
145/80R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/145-80R17.htm) = 26.1X5.7R17
155/80R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/155-80R17.htm) = 26.8X6.1R17
215/55R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/215-55R17.htm) = 26.3x8.5R17
225/55R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/225-55R17.htm) = 26.7x8.9R17
235/50R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/235-50R17.htm) = 26.3x9.3R17
245/50R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/245-50R17.htm) = 26.6x9.7R17
255/45R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/255-45R17.htm) = 26x10R17
26X11.5R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/26X11.50R17.htm)
285/40R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/285-40R17.htm) = 26x11.2R17
295/40R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/295-40R17.htm) = 26.3x11.6R17
335/35R17 (https://tiresize.com/tiresizes/335-35R17.htm) = 26.2x13.2R17

[protomor]

On my E30, I run 215s up front. 17x8 effective ET -15 IIRC.

[Novablue454]

I'm also dumb and forgot to pull my camber up. It is maxed negative at -3.5 degrees with the oem LCAs. I should probably pull both adjustments fully positive and see where I end up.

[jalopi]

I'm also dumb and forgot to pull my camber up. It is maxed negative at -3.5 degrees with the oem LCAs. I should probably pull both adjustments fully positive and see where I end up.

wait what? i thought you bought an ultra kit? did you install a half kit instead??

[Novablue454]

I am on an ultra kit. However, the last alignment before I installed the kit was set at -3.5 degrees, which was pretty much maxed out negative. Then I installed the Ultra kit and didn't touch the camber adjustments, so the top hats and strut tower adjustments are still at max negative, which paired with the ultra arms is insanely negative.

[jalopi]

oh lol you're probably sitting at -8* then. yeah, drawing it back to 3.5 again might just give you the clearance you need

[Novablue454]

If not more haha. I maxed out both the strut tower adjustment and the top hat adjustment positive, and am still very obviously negative, but no where near as bad. My lug nuts showed up today and my spacers/lugs show up tomorrow, but unfortunately I won't be able to test clearance for a few days since I decided to take apart my wheels and paint them.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/7AB3ABE1-CF9E-4F00-ADE5-7C78ECC22610_zpstvggpuo7.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/7AB3ABE1-CF9E-4F00-ADE5-7C78ECC22610_zpstvggpuo7.jpg.html)

[jalopi]

dope color. did that come out of a can or a gun?

[Novablue454]

Can. It's the same color that's on my cage you can sort of see through the trunk. It's Valspar Premium "Satin Sumptous Purple" from Lowes.

[Novablue454]

Well, Today was a day of learning. Tried to test fit the engine and long story short, it doesn't.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/07A530B3-8B45-4D33-84EE-89550304D0B4_zpslysps4wi.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/07A530B3-8B45-4D33-84EE-89550304D0B4_zpslysps4wi.jpg.html)


Can't wait to see how the engine fits in there, and the clearance with the brake booster. ;-)

Clearance on the brake booster is fine. However, there is a metal shield thing that goes around the ABS pump and the booster that is keeping the engine from sitting properly. I am going to have to cut that entire shield away, and probably delete the ABS pump. I am thinking of doing a booster delete, just because I want the engine bay as clean as possible.

I also found out that the T56 I have isn't going to work without essentially a full rebuild. I did not realize the CTS-V T56 was different then the F-body, so now I have to find a transmission shop who is familiar enough with them to convert it. My research shows i'll need a GTO mainshaft, F-Body/GTO tailhousing, F-body/GTO Shift Rail, F-Body Offset lever, and an F-body detent assembly.

We also tried fitting the dash today.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/EBB9F726-A5FF-4FEC-80A6-D6A98CF02E38_zpsyzrbd1ya.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/EBB9F726-A5FF-4FEC-80A6-D6A98CF02E38_zpsyzrbd1ya.jpg.html)

What a PITA that was, and I am completely unhappy with how it turned out. It looks good from far, but far from good. I am probably going to get another dash off Ebay and try again.

Last night I got around to cutting out the rear bulkhead and attaching some rubber to the lower radiator mount. I still need to trim it once the adhesive dries.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/C92D5271-441D-4A95-9D9F-E25E22F18851_zpswbon0uuh.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/C92D5271-441D-4A95-9D9F-E25E22F18851_zpswbon0uuh.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/F65108BB-B5DF-409F-98D6-D4E20CF97D77_zpsvhmoff3p.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/F65108BB-B5DF-409F-98D6-D4E20CF97D77_zpsvhmoff3p.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/AD98A619-F2F8-40D3-8A88-A09148E1301A_zpsuqycqqtx.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/AD98A619-F2F8-40D3-8A88-A09148E1301A_zpsuqycqqtx.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/th_0F82E5A7-43FA-4CDF-8F6A-D5BEFA44CB70_zpsdqztsuuu.mp4 (http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/0F82E5A7-43FA-4CDF-8F6A-D5BEFA44CB70_zpsdqztsuuu.mp4)

Got the wheels cleared and the barrels polished and then at the last minute decided I wanted to repaint all the bolt heads. Here's a mockup of how they're going to look.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/AE193720-8DBB-4FB4-AF6A-0458427CDD56_zpswuliqjy7.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/AE193720-8DBB-4FB4-AF6A-0458427CDD56_zpswuliqjy7.jpg.html)

and my lug nuts showed up!

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/CEFB40D1-0430-48BF-9DB3-C191146ED4B5_zpsgohi0isl.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/CEFB40D1-0430-48BF-9DB3-C191146ED4B5_zpsgohi0isl.jpg.html)

[jalopi]

maybe there was a problem when the mounts were being made? i'd call up simpson/vorshlag (can't remember who you went with) and ask them why you're having clearance issues, because for the money you probably paid that's bullshit

[Novablue454]

I went back and looked at Vorshlags site, and there is a note saying "There is some trimming to clear two tubes necessary on the driver's side inner fender panel, near the ABS hydraulic pump", I just didn't realize it beforehand. Using CXRacing headers with everything else Vorshlag probably isn't helping either.

[Iteachgolf]

You don't want ABS in a drift car anyways.

[Novablue454]

You don't want ABS in a drift car anyways.

There's no wiring for it so it's not like it would have worked anyway. And looking it at now I realize the way the OEM lines are set up won't work with a pass through handbrake system, so I would have had to ditch the pump and run new lines either way.

[jalopi]

if you're dead set on a passthrough, you can always leave the existing lines and us a "T" to turn the two lines into one. then go to the handbrake, then to another "T" leading to the brake lines again

[Mikestokman]

I tried that on an e28 missile car one time, didn't really work very well. It would lock but took a lot of effort. I'm kind of surprised that such a baller build with future plans for an fd built car, doesn't have dual calipers. I mean, if you can spend 150 on a plastic panel that you're chopping up to put your tablet in, couldn't you spend a couple hundred on some wilwood calipers and weld some tabs onto your rear knuckle?

[Novablue454]

It's in the plans to do dual calipers, but i'm going to run it as a pass through in the meantime. When I decide to go dual, it's as simple as putting a union in the existing line where the handbrake was. I can weld OK, but I don't trust myself with something that integral. Unfortunately, no one makes a dual caliper bracket for the 46. A lot of the local Rally guys run passthrough and all said it works fine. I was eyeballing the D2 dual function calipers (http://www.driftworks.com/d2-big-brake-kit-dual-circuit-handbrake-rear-footbrake-and-handbrake-in-1-caliper.html) but thats $2000 I don't have to spend at this point. I am sort of doing this car in 2 stages. The main build (swap/cage/wiring/suspension) and then using the 2016 season to test things and work out kinks. There are also some big plans for next winter, once we've had time to test the car some and recover a bit financially. At this point i've blown the entire amount I stashed away from the sale of my SRT8, and the bit I had saved before that, and things like a surprise transmission rebuild, plus the swap company disappearing and never shipping my parts/having to buy a second engine harness/ecu/pedal assembly have thrown a wrench in the big purchases for a while.

- - - Updated - - -

Got 2 of my wheels assembled, It's sort of tedious assembling them so I'll do the other 2 later this week. My H&R spacers and Turner studs should be here tomorrow, so I wanted to have 2 ready to go to check fitment.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/F38B4B28-FF31-44BD-8A0B-5253D0C2FB5A_zpshemoe9ye.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/F38B4B28-FF31-44BD-8A0B-5253D0C2FB5A_zpshemoe9ye.jpg.html)

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/89DEA806-C3B9-4D67-B255-F8D05F801A0E_zpsgzpij8fc.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/89DEA806-C3B9-4D67-B255-F8D05F801A0E_zpsgzpij8fc.jpg.html)

Decided since that I was cutting things already, I should "shave" the engine bay to get it as clean looking as possible. It isn't done yet, and I haven't pulled the ABS pump yet, as I want to bring my vacuum bleeder home from work and drain the entire system so pulling the pump makes as small of a mess as possible.

Before:
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/483A8F42-6D6E-4845-AFDD-F13B8E4260EC_zpsvtrqfasa.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/483A8F42-6D6E-4845-AFDD-F13B8E4260EC_zpsvtrqfasa.jpg.html)

In Progress:
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/2F949F9F-D75C-497A-9D89-4D7E22BFFF6C_zpsog4vdybb.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/2F949F9F-D75C-497A-9D89-4D7E22BFFF6C_zpsog4vdybb.jpg.html)

[jeepster]

I "half" shaved my bay. You dont realize how many nipples etc are all over the place LOL.

[jalopi]

holy crap. that's a pretty cool caliper setup. don't know how they came up with a $2500 price tag though, but you could probably block off the passover ports in a set of wilwood calipers and get the same end result, or i guess use a caliper that doesn't have crossover ports

[Novablue454]

Got the 30mm spacers installed along with the Turner 90mm wheel studs.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/B8D09083-8F09-4EEF-99BE-EB57A31D44F5_zpsjkyfbyoz.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/B8D09083-8F09-4EEF-99BE-EB57A31D44F5_zpsjkyfbyoz.jpg.html)

Lucked out and wheel is almost a perfect match to the lug nuts.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/43A275C1-681A-495F-9D79-7FBA09F1C4A0_zpsotipxmgn.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/43A275C1-681A-495F-9D79-7FBA09F1C4A0_zpsotipxmgn.jpg.html)

Holy poke! I hope those Hard flares are wide enough!

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/12FF1FC2-2784-4DEE-91C8-FB33DF6499BF_zpsumpyls6w.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/12FF1FC2-2784-4DEE-91C8-FB33DF6499BF_zpsumpyls6w.jpg.html)

Still, the 195/40 clears with room for days. the 205/50 hits the sway bar. This tells me I should be looking somewhere in the 24" diameter range. I am thinking maybe a 225/40 might be the ticket.

[Iteachgolf]

There are basically no options at 225/40. Like I said early I'd try 215/40 and 235/40 would likely work as well. 235/40 is 8.5mm shorter than 205/50

[Novablue454]

I took some measurements this morning. Looks like a 215/40 will work. Thanks!

I've been racking my brain trying to figure out how the heck Denofa is getting by with a 245/40-18 when I am having so many issues. This morning while lurking IG I finally saw that he is using rack stops to limit the steering and keep out of the sway bar.

Drift_Dr is going to let me try out a 245/35 some evening as well.

[Mikestokman]

I'd be a little Leary about using a 215/40 depending on what size rear tire you plan on running. You don't really want the back to out grip the front, it's a bad time.

[jalopi]

pics of said rack stop? scrolled on IG for a good while and didn't see anything

[Novablue454]

SLRspeed's comment at the bottom

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/4FE6F08F-1355-42D2-8CFA-AE132A23C06A_zpsuedsxwtt.png (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/4FE6F08F-1355-42D2-8CFA-AE132A23C06A_zpsuedsxwtt.png.html)

[jalopi]

aah, yeah i saw that little video, didn't read the comments though. was wondering how they set the rack stop up, if it was adjustable or proprietary

[protomor]

Do I see no front swaybar?

[Novablue454]

Do I see no front swaybar?

It's got a sway bar, even appears to be bigger diameter then stock.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/64134B7E-0B3B-481E-9251-CEC27C274EBC_zpsnftyfv1z.png (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/64134B7E-0B3B-481E-9251-CEC27C274EBC_zpsnftyfv1z.png.html)

- - - Updated - - -


aah, yeah i saw that little video, didn't read the comments though. was wondering how they set the rack stop up, if it was adjustable or proprietary

Not sure. Google is only turning up one link to any.
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-4226-turner-motorsport-steering-rack-stop-kit.aspx

Although it seems a little pointless to me to install an angle kit and then add rack stops to take angle away. I guess it's a push-pull of how much tire you want vs how much angle you want.

[protomor]

There's a point where it makes your car slow down a boat load. I don't normally get anywhere close to full lock unless I fiddled my diddle and need to untuck my dangling participle.

[Novablue454]

There's a point where it makes your car slow down a boat load. I don't normally get anywhere close to full lock unless I fiddled my diddle and need to untuck my dangling participle.

Yeah, I'm sure its better to have more rubber on the road and less angle then some narrow tire you're just going to push all over the track and more angle.

[Iteachgolf]

SLR kit literally double the stock steering angle. A 235/40 vs 215/40 is only an 8mm difference. An 8mm steering rack stop isn't going to drastically reduce the angle. Chelsea's car in that photo has roughly 65* of angle. Do you really need any more than that? Going from 38* to 65* is still a massive gain. Its not like you're like you're losing the angle you gained by putting on the kit by anything other than a tiny amount. Chelsea has no issue doing reverse entries. The majority of the time you are going to be using more than the stock angle but less than full lock

[Novablue454]

Yeah, it's looking like a rack stop is going to be the way to go. I'm looking at tire options on tirerack and there is almost nothing in the entire 23" diameter range, maybe 4 brands in each size. Stepping up to a 24" diameter adds like 70 models to the sizes. I don't mind doing a rack stop, it just hadn't crossed my mind.

[protomor]

24 inch rims son? Daaaaaaaaayum

[Novablue454]

Turner rack stops are on their way. There aren't different sizes available though, so I have no idea how big they are.

[jalopi]

it's weird. their instructions say 16mm, but the pictures in the instructions make em look more like 1"

[Novablue454]

I messaged their customer service about it. the add says "Our rack stop length is the approximate length that will be removed from the outside tire wall’s path. For example, if a 16mm rack stop is used, there will be 16mm more clearance for a brake duct between the fender well and the edge of the tire" and no where in the add does it even say what size they actually are. Customer Service just said "there is only one size available" but still didn't say what size they are. If they're too big, I can always hit em with a grinder.

[protomor]

Looks simple enough that you can just make your own.

[Novablue454]

Slow going lately. Spent 3 straight days so far cutting tabs off, smoothing stuff out, and cleaning up the engine bay. Just a few more spots to go then it's time to paint.

Took some time today to make a handbrake mount. It's not the prettiest thing, but it's probably overkill strength wise. I think it'll look better once it's primed and painted.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/269E6C53-8BD5-44ED-AB72-6A491282EB9B_zpslhywefxk.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/269E6C53-8BD5-44ED-AB72-6A491282EB9B_zpslhywefxk.jpg.html)

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/3D8D000D-54A5-4E50-91E1-E7D87CE39311_zpsnxcche2d.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/3D8D000D-54A5-4E50-91E1-E7D87CE39311_zpsnxcche2d.jpg.html)

[jalopi]

why's the brake master mounted upside down?

[bennyfizzle]

probably because it doesnt matter at that point lol

[Novablue454]

probably because it doesnt matter at that point lol

Exactly. I slapped it together to mock it up and didn't care. They cut the wrong threads on the part that attaches the lever to the master anyway, so I've gotta take it to work and rethread it tomorrow.

[Novablue454]

Turner rack stops showed up! Since they never mentioned the size, now I know. 38mm.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/A70B727E-55FE-4CC1-8890-7504A4375B6F_zpsuzcw7usv.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/A70B727E-55FE-4CC1-8890-7504A4375B6F_zpsuzcw7usv.jpg.html)

They take so much of the angle out that now the 205/50s clear with tons of room, but a massive decrease in angle.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/987C1837-46E4-4E37-A43B-02699489C5CF_zpsh0rgvjpl.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/987C1837-46E4-4E37-A43B-02699489C5CF_zpsh0rgvjpl.jpg.html)


http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/00D4303E-B9A9-4224-BF7F-0600002F14FF_zps6j0gvnqi.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/00D4303E-B9A9-4224-BF7F-0600002F14FF_zps6j0gvnqi.jpg.html)

So I think I'm going to go for a 245/40. 1/2" smaller then the 205/50 that's on there now but 1.6" wider. Then I should be able to trim the rack spacers a hair to dial in the sway bar clearance. Feel free to tell me if I'm being stupid about this

[Novablue454]

Also, how are people normally mounting their master disconnects? Drag cars they want it by the taillights, easy enough, but it looks like the rulebook wants it "outside the vehicle, on the right side cowl, just below the windshield" My hood is off right now so i'm not positive, but i'm 99% sure the hood covers the cowl panel? I'm looking at Chelsea's car and it aappears to be mounted straight to the hood. I can't seem to find it on Alex Heilbrunn's car.

[protomor]

I've seen them poking through the hood. I think I've seen them on the A pillar inside the car but easily accessible from the outside. Most people do a pin on the bottom of the windshield that goes under the hood to pull the real pin.

[Mikestokman]

I've always done it by making a bracket that mounts to the inner fender rail(or whatever the technical term is), and to the firewall with the switch, and then drill a hole in the hood for it to poke through.

[Novablue454]

Cool. I ordered this guy http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fla-fr1013 so I guess i'll just have to see how it mounts up when it gets here.

I also ordered a pair of 245/40 Federal 595s for steer tires. I really want to run the R888s on the front, but I don't want to spend that money until I am confident in the sizing.

My trans has been in the shop for a week and a half and they haven't started on it yet. so I am seriously debating on if I can get away with installing the engine with the clutch/bellhousing on it, and then popping the trans in from underneath whenever I get it back. I would like to start working on my mounts for stuff around the engine, making all my AN hoses, routing wiring and hoses, etc and not having the trans is holding me up.

Also, mounting this GM gas pedal is going to be interesting. The BMW pedal mount is a circle and the steering column passes through it, and the column is in the way of any decent pedal placement. I'm either going to have to mount the pedal on the other side of the column and build a new pedal linkage, or possibly mount it upside down. We will see.

[Novablue454]

Started working last night on my heel plate and trying to figure out how to mount the GM gas pedal assembly. I still need to make spacers for the plate, and then I think I am going to wrap it in grip tape. I think I got the gas pedal mostly figured out by putting some cuts and bends in the linkage. I want to check the placement with a seat in it before I mount it though.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/C051F6F2-FD87-4D58-8FED-B8CEA7940B0B_zpssxdsz9qa.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/C051F6F2-FD87-4D58-8FED-B8CEA7940B0B_zpssxdsz9qa.jpg.html)

Mocking up the bash bar so I can start building the mounts to the frame rails.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/323AD8BB-70F3-4427-BD94-6C475E69FC0F_zpsagsddpsp.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/323AD8BB-70F3-4427-BD94-6C475E69FC0F_zpsagsddpsp.jpg.html)

The engine bay is mostly done. I am waiting on a firewall block off plate from HARD motorsport and then I think it's done.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/8DEC3B4A-7DB5-4DB1-9D46-1724EA2F4B04_zpse4fhbval.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/8DEC3B4A-7DB5-4DB1-9D46-1724EA2F4B04_zpse4fhbval.jpg.html)

Also, talked to the shop that has my transmission, and they said it would be no problem to convert it to F-Body style and I can pick it up at the end of next week.

[Novablue454]

Made the front hard lines tonight. Need to get a different flaring tool and wait for the chase bays proportioning valve to show up before I do the rears. Also installed some ECS stainless lines from the calipers.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/FC4C0DA6-FE3F-4C40-8781-0F318DDB755C_zps7cixsjpd.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/FC4C0DA6-FE3F-4C40-8781-0F318DDB755C_zps7cixsjpd.jpg.html)

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/EC1C6492-A569-4104-A014-597DAF99853D_zpseqeullcc.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/EC1C6492-A569-4104-A014-597DAF99853D_zpseqeullcc.jpg.html)



http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/30EC5072-281B-4893-8BF0-0858C12F01AD_zpsvfqkw7iz.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/30EC5072-281B-4893-8BF0-0858C12F01AD_zpsvfqkw7iz.jpg.html)

[Novablue454]

Made the line out the rears, waiting on a T to show up before I can tie it in under the car.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/AA4BF2DC-80CF-4121-B3ED-EC90A776A94D_zps5mc4wjom.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/AA4BF2DC-80CF-4121-B3ED-EC90A776A94D_zps5mc4wjom.jpg.html)

Started on the bash bar mounts

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/83037845-8028-4A36-ADBB-14A0B0B2954C_zpsnxskylpr.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/83037845-8028-4A36-ADBB-14A0B0B2954C_zpsnxskylpr.jpg.html)

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/AC438554-8ADD-4790-9D11-141522E2BE6F_zps45md2gsp.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/AC438554-8ADD-4790-9D11-141522E2BE6F_zps45md2gsp.jpg.html)

[Novablue454]

Got the bash bar (almost) mounted. I still need to get some proper bolts and nuts to weld in to the sleeves so they'll pinch down.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/76D87592-92B9-4388-9D20-807DECDCD360_zpsm38vjkgq.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/76D87592-92B9-4388-9D20-807DECDCD360_zpsm38vjkgq.jpg.html)

a close up of the mount. I did it this way so if it takes a hit (hopefully) the bar will just slide under the pinch bolt rather then tweak the frame rail. I borrowed the idea from Odi, so I hope it works.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/61658497-833C-4B92-80E4-C48AEA3E0150_zpspkf2tghk.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/61658497-833C-4B92-80E4-C48AEA3E0150_zpspkf2tghk.jpg.html)

Got some metal cut out for the package tray and rear bulkhead and working on trimming it for a good fit.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/EB226CA5-1FD9-4ECE-B6CF-7454C63FCEE6_zps5urscryb.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/EB226CA5-1FD9-4ECE-B6CF-7454C63FCEE6_zps5urscryb.jpg.html)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/38522319-8D96-4B9C-84B4-4835A2C00616_zpsq1oq8pvl.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/38522319-8D96-4B9C-84B4-4835A2C00616_zpsq1oq8pvl.jpg.html)

and got the Sparco trunk tie downs installed (ignore the missing tail light)

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/f552208f-25ac-4d97-933e-0cddcc22fc02_zpsvqybsfcc.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/f552208f-25ac-4d97-933e-0cddcc22fc02_zpsvqybsfcc.jpg.html)

I am having terrible luck with shipping lately. I ordered a pair of Federal 595s on the 19th and UPS lost them. The company is sending out another set thankfully, but how do you just lose a set of tires? Also, the Chase Bays proportioning valve never showed up and they didn't respond to multiple emails so we ordered one from SSBC. Of course when we emailed Chase Bays asking for a refund they responded with a shipping notice, 8 days after we placed the order. Still waiting on the flares from HARD to arrive and I placed an order for a Street Faction rear bash bar and GT style wing combo.

[jalopi]

yeah, UPS is pretty bad about losing stuff. did you see the youtube story about that guy who had his 4 rotor wankel "misplaced" by their employees. a few weeks later, he wound up getting a tip from someone saying that his engine pieces were being auctioned off on ebay

also, very very clean job on that brake line. looks almost OE :)

[Novablue454]

Now that you mention it, I do think I remember reading something about that on Jalopnik a while back.

Thanks!

The schedule for Drift Colorado just came out yesterday, and i've got until May to get it on the track.

[Mikestokman]

Wait, you're doing one of those weird looking bumper mounted wings? Just when I was starting to really like this build :(

[jalopi]

i think those are some kind of springy trunk hold downs

[protomor]

bumper mounted wing? What is that?

[jalopi]

i believe this is what he's referencing

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0749/2609/products/s13_swan_edited5_large.jpg?v=1452802451

which IMO does look a little funny but it certainly makes more sense, if set up right

[protomor]

I don't like no rear bumper

[Novablue454]

I am going to run a cover. Its required by Drift Colorado tech that you have to have bumper covers to be allowed on track.

The one I ordered also incorporates a rear bash bar, as well as a rear jack point. All you have to do is make 2 slits in the rear cover for the wing supports to fit through. Also, the one that I ordered is able to pivot back out of the way to allow trunk access.

There are no pictures of it on an E46 because it doesn't exist yet. They borrowed one local to them and are in the process of adapting their current kit to fit it properly.

here is a picture of it installed on an infinity
562086
I can't find the picture of it with the cover installed, but I know i've seen it.

and this is it on an FRS (only without the jack point)

562088

- - - Updated - - -


i think those are some kind of springy trunk hold downs

yep, the E46 is electric and I didn't feel like wiring it in and adding another switch, so I threw it away and just got the Sparco trunk hold downs.

- - - Updated - - -


Wait, you're doing one of those weird looking bumper mounted wings? Just when I was starting to really like this build :(

I'm sorry :drink1

[jalopi]

aah, guess i missed that tidbit. so are you doing a regular or swan neck mount?

[Novablue454]

It's the exact one in the picture above. They just have to develop the bash bar for the e46 chassis and then the wing attaches to the bash bar.

[Mikestokman]

That's the one I thought you meant and I still don't like the looks of it. Not my car though so my opinion doesn't mean anything!

[doktor b]

i like the chassis mounted wing a lot.
my only concern is that if you back into a wall at all, the wing uprights are the furthest rearward part of the bashbar...unless the design revision incorporates a fix for that as well.

[Novablue454]

We've got a converted transmission!

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/163B9B92-2566-40E4-8FC9-258FE0366BDF_zpsq7uudhhf.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/163B9B92-2566-40E4-8FC9-258FE0366BDF_zpsq7uudhhf.jpg.html)

Only they over-converted it thinking it was actually going in to an f-body, and switched the front plate to the f-body style one which doesn't allow my CTS-V slave to mount. They're going to fix it Monday morning.

The rear bulkhead is almost done, just a bit more smoothing on the edges. We took it to a local sheet metal shop and had them put a couple bends in it so it would hug the 1" square tube we put in tightly and give us a nice surface to bond/rivet to.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/D2B07FE7-E71D-4C09-A9E0-204A5FA66C1A_zpsizxn3sxk.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/D2B07FE7-E71D-4C09-A9E0-204A5FA66C1A_zpsizxn3sxk.jpg.html)

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/B136AF17-4451-4C8E-B90C-03C8DFAF32E3_zpsryht4rlo.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/B136AF17-4451-4C8E-B90C-03C8DFAF32E3_zpsryht4rlo.jpg.html)

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/385E368F-7A63-46EE-BC20-4FC9B1588325_zpsqg9euuol.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/385E368F-7A63-46EE-BC20-4FC9B1588325_zpsqg9euuol.jpg.html)

- - - Updated - - -


i like the chassis mounted wing a lot.
my only concern is that if you back into a wall at all, the wing uprights are the furthest rearward part of the bashbar...unless the design revision incorporates a fix for that as well.

I hadn't thought of that. Luckily the tracks I am going to be at often don't have many walls. Also, it's a couple bolts to pull the wing from the bash bar so you can remove it in a couple minutes.

[jalopi]

solution, maybe - replace the included bolts used on the wing stands with shear bolts. they'd have to be custom made, but at least they should help prevent major damage to the wing stands

[Novablue454]

Proportioning valve finally showed up.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/06D5BBC0-AD4A-4871-9E2E-2CEE9B773160_zpsxo3gas20.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/06D5BBC0-AD4A-4871-9E2E-2CEE9B773160_zpsxo3gas20.jpg.html)

Also, got the retaining tabs for the brake lines installed.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/52ECB3EB-068C-48BF-A168-A6108DCB1F3C_zpshfdkf6iw.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/52ECB3EB-068C-48BF-A168-A6108DCB1F3C_zpshfdkf6iw.jpg.html)

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/CB22B14D-7613-4A2F-AE88-748361D83F5C_zpsyxje3br4.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/CB22B14D-7613-4A2F-AE88-748361D83F5C_zpsyxje3br4.jpg.html)

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/AA278FB7-522C-4910-B037-E2C175C96D5F_zps4pmd0hyg.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/AA278FB7-522C-4910-B037-E2C175C96D5F_zps4pmd0hyg.jpg.html)

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/0CA551FE-0962-48D3-AA26-CC286B32B490_zpstmgdlf3s.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/0CA551FE-0962-48D3-AA26-CC286B32B490_zpstmgdlf3s.jpg.html)

That line was a pain in the ass.

Also, picked up another set of style 5's. These ones are going to take a lot of work to match the other set.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/A0222394-624B-482A-A7DF-51E8287E631B_zpsnbzezfzj.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/A0222394-624B-482A-A7DF-51E8287E631B_zpsnbzezfzj.jpg.html)

[Novablue454]

Bash bar mounted up. Still need to figure out something to cover the holes and get some paint on it.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/DF28F1C4-1CE0-4A11-A951-F58BCF74B2D6_zps8vq5gg0d.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/DF28F1C4-1CE0-4A11-A951-F58BCF74B2D6_zps8vq5gg0d.jpg.html)

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/78B68A7B-6545-4FAF-AAEC-9E8856983C6C_zpsgd90oh26.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/78B68A7B-6545-4FAF-AAEC-9E8856983C6C_zpsgd90oh26.jpg.html)

[Mikestokman]

Plate with a threaded bung for a tow hook kinda like stock?

[Novablue454]

Plate with a threaded bung for a tow hook kinda like stock?

That's a good idea, except I designed the bar to slip in an impact and worry that it would slip/rip off if I had to get towed with it. I do need to figure out somewhere to mount a tow hook though...

[Novablue454]

The Hard Motorsport flares showed up so I started working on those last night.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/9A1A9E54-640A-485D-B6B2-A2E9DF517D52_zpselso41xf.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/9A1A9E54-640A-485D-B6B2-A2E9DF517D52_zpselso41xf.jpg.html)

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/E5608057-9806-4941-9D46-266979194C6C_zps9ftaevtq.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/E5608057-9806-4941-9D46-266979194C6C_zps9ftaevtq.jpg.html)

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b173/Novablue454/7C1F5C26-5940-452A-BD51-7F677215C518_zps8k5yzbh5.jpg (http://s19.photobucket.com/user/Novablue454/media/7C1F5C26-5940-452A-BD51-7F677215C518_zps8k5yzbh5.jpg.html)

The rears will be more difficult, but I don't think it'll be too bad.

My tires showed up too. Got them mounted up today and will test fit them tonight, then get to work trimming the rack stops.

Also finally got around to ordering a set of front end links.

http://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspension-Steering/End-Links/BimmerWorld-Control-Arm-Mounted-Adjustable-Swaybar-Links.html

[protomor]

All these people doing stuff to their cars. I'm just sitting here swapping a serpentine belt and brake pads. Then a limb from a tree smashes out my project's back window :(

[jalopi]

you never posted pics of the body damage, how bad is it?

[protomor]

oh body damage? baseball dent in the top of the C pillar on the roof. Nothing super bad but more than you should fill with bondo.

[Novablue454]

All these people doing stuff to their cars. I'm just sitting here swapping a serpentine belt and brake pads. Then a limb from a tree smashes out my project's back window :(

Ouch, that's a huge bummer.

[protomor]

I need a garage :(

[Novablue454]

I'm ordering the Radium Auto 39mm pump adapter kit tonight. Is a Walbro 255lph going to be enough for the LS6? I have a Walbro 450lph as well, but its shaped different then the 255 and don't think it will work with that kit,

[jalopi]

whineboro 255s are good for what, 400hp worth of fuel delivery? google says 500

you should be just fine bro

[Novablue454]

whineboro 255s are good for what, 400hp worth of fuel delivery? google says 500

you should be just fine bro

That's what I figured. We use them on built 2.5l with 1000cc injectors up to about 450whp on e85.

The LS6 has 29 lb/hr injectors x 8 so 2440cc stock. If the walbro is handling 4000cc then 2500 should be no problem.

[bimerok]

Not sure about walbro 255, but as fyi, Stock e36 pump is absolutely fine on 6.0L - LS2 for street and track duty.