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View Full Version : Advice on Which e34 touring Model/Year to look For



ricky914
05-17-2015, 10:48 AM
I have two e30 convertibles, looking to get rid of one and buy an e34 touring

Which e34, is most reliable and can pile on the miles?

Also are there any features to stay away from?

Any estimate for price I should look to pay for a 120k mile or under car that is a good runner but "needs TLC?"

I figure (based off e30s) I'd need to put 3k into it to make it a good safe strong daily driver, is that reasonable?

Thanks!

Layne
05-17-2015, 12:51 PM
You only get two choices in the US, a 525i automatic, or a 530i automatic. The only good reason to get the 530i is if you want to swap it to a 4.0 or 4.4l engine. Otherwise, just get a 525i. If you prefer a narrow grille you'd have to get a 525i that isn't a 1995. All 95's and all 530i's are wide grille. 95's are the most common by far. They have a few unique electronic issues, but also have the only door panels with any chance of not falling apart. Both automatics will eventually fail and are no fun to drive. Both can be swapped to 5 speed fairly easily using parts from a sedan. E30 money doesn't get you far on an E34. Any one you find will need a whole new suspension, cooling system, gaskets, pulleys, etc, etc.

ricky914
05-17-2015, 02:22 PM
So, 3k is not enough to bring it up to bring one back to dd status? What is a good general ballpark with me doing the work myself?
Thanks

cddallara
05-17-2015, 02:44 PM
95s don't have sls either, one less thing to deal with. I paid $850 for mine, and if I subtracted the 'wants' from the 'needs', the overall money spent would be ~$3k in four years, including the drivetrain swap. But I had lots of help along the way.
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q4/cddallara/touring/D2206418-AEFC-4E7A-B6C8-75B3D551E204_zpsy2xnl5oo.jpg (http://s132.photobucket.com/user/cddallara/media/touring/D2206418-AEFC-4E7A-B6C8-75B3D551E204_zpsy2xnl5oo.jpg.html)

hotdish
05-17-2015, 10:18 PM
E30 money doesn't get you far on an E34. Any one you find will need a whole new suspension, cooling system, gaskets, pulleys, etc, etc.

Are e34's really that bad? I was going to buy a 525i touring instead of an e30 for a winter beater since m50's are so much cheaper and more common than m20's in my area.

Sam Son
05-18-2015, 02:40 AM
Are e34's really that bad? I was going to buy a 525i touring instead of an e30 for a winter beater since m50's are so much cheaper and more common than m20's in my area.
You need to do the same stuff on any old BMW. There's nothing worse about an E34.

Also I think the previous comment about "E30 money" should be amended as clean E30s are fetching higher prices for some bizarre reason

Creesic
05-18-2015, 08:34 AM
Do a little bit of research on suspension parts. Those prices alone are crazy. It's also an M50, so the obvious cooling system problem is there. You're going to want to replace that right away, just to make sure nothing else blows up.

(I totally think you could pull it off for 3k, but you're gonna keep working on it for a while.)

Again, they're not fun to drive automatic. If you've driven a E30 318i, the 525 is just as slow. Plus, it may just be mine, but it feels as though it has a bunch of clutch slippage. That's my only way to put it as I've only driven manuals ever since I got my license, and never cared to learn how an automatic transmission functions. So! If you can find a cheap manual sedan, and follow some guides, you'll have a nice manual wagon. But the thing is still not something to throw around, even if you could. You're gonna be going arm-over-arm to make tight turns.

Either way, 92-93 models, in the US have SLS. Correct me if I have those years wrong, guys, but SLS is a hit-or-miss. I have it. It works. Never had an issue. It can, supposedly, carry more weight than a wagon with a normal suspension setup. It would definitely be more level.

Find one with sport seats if you do find one. The normal seats will make your back hurt.

Everything else is preference, I guess. Interior color, other random options like the dual sunroof, seat type as stated, etc.

TLDR; (because everything I write is totally out of order)
Automatic. M50 cooling system. Suspension overhaul. SLS.

They're not bad. There is no real "best year" either. 93, narrow kidneys but with SLS. 94, narrow kidneys but no SLS. 95, wide kidneys with no SLS, but as I've heard as well, some weird electronical stuff goes on in that car. You can swap the hood and kidneys for cheap, though, so I'm recommending a 93 if you want SLS, or a 94 if you do not. If you change your mind after purchasing a 93, you could pull out the rear suspension from the car you do a manual swap from as well.

3k should do it.

ShapeShifter
05-18-2015, 09:35 AM
Do a little bit of research on suspension parts. Those prices alone are crazy. It's also an M50, so the obvious cooling system problem is there. You're going to want to replace that right away, just to make sure nothing else blows up.

(I totally think you could pull it off for 3k, but you're gonna keep working on it for a while.)

Again, they're not fun to drive automatic. If you've driven a E30 318i, the 525 is just as slow. Plus, it may just be mine, but it feels as though it has a bunch of clutch slippage. That's my only way to put it as I've only driven manuals ever since I got my license, and never cared to learn how an automatic transmission functions. So! If you can find a cheap manual sedan, and follow some guides, you'll have a nice manual wagon. But the thing is still not something to throw around, even if you could. You're gonna be going arm-over-arm to make tight turns.

Either way, 92-93 models, in the US have SLS. Correct me if I have those years wrong, guys, but SLS is a hit-or-miss. I have it. It works. Never had an issue. It can, supposedly, carry more weight than a wagon with a normal suspension setup. It would definitely be more level.

Find one with sport seats if you do find one. The normal seats will make your back hurt.

Everything else is preference, I guess. Interior color, other random options like the dual sunroof, seat type as stated, etc.

TLDR; (because everything I write is totally out of order)
Automatic. M50 cooling system. Suspension overhaul. SLS.

They're not bad. There is no real "best year" either. 93, narrow kidneys but with SLS. 94, narrow kidneys but no SLS. 95, wide kidneys with no SLS, but as I've heard as well, some weird electronical stuff goes on in that car. You can swap the hood and kidneys for cheap, though, so I'm recommending a 93 if you want SLS, or a 94 if you do not. If you change your mind after purchasing a 93, you could pull out the rear suspension from the car you do a manual swap from as well.

3k should do it.

The only real electrical difference on the 95's is EWS II, no big deal to delete it. Just need a red label 413 DME and a wire snip.

No US spec tourings came with sport seats.
95% of people have no problem with the comfort seats. I have had both and prefer the comfrort seats for, well, comfort. The sport seats do look 100x better.

Most of us who have been messing with these cars for a few years would recommend the 95 MY....

ricky914
05-18-2015, 02:10 PM
The only real electrical difference on the 95's is EWS II, no big deal to delete it. Just need a red label 413 DME and a wire snip.

No US spec tourings came with sport seats.
95% of people have no problem with the comfort seats. I have had both and prefer the comfrort seats for, well, comfort. The sport seats do look 100x better.

Most of us who have been messing with these cars for a few years would recommend the 95 MY....


Okay Thanks!.going to look at one today. Not the engine I want, but it'll give me an idea before I commit some serious time to the search. It does not need to be a track worthy, just something I can fit the family in with some space for cargo, and has more character than an Acura wagon or Subaru.

The 90 325i has flat spots on new tires after only being driven 5K miles in the last 4+years. The 92 318i is my DD now. Both are clean oem, compliments at gas stations and at traffic light cars. I think I'll find this "perfect" project touring and add in the options that should have had like sports seats. It looks like the leveling system can be deleted, and with stiffened suspension, not sure that I'd need it, although cool feature when working.

Great looking cars to all that post here, had to look through the e34 touring post more than once, thanks!

- - - Updated - - -

So I test drove a black 94' Touring 530
VW Dealer = new tires and brakes
156K Miles, no service records
ask is $7,500

The bad:
Suspension shot
AC works only on high revs
WEAK Engine,I mean step on the gas and your looking at the MPH thinking, "move!"
Blown back box, maybe more
No Radio
Head lining and interior shot, all of it, dash seats, door cads, everything on the inside
Leaking moon roof
Only driver window works,others jam or fall down
Tail lamps cracked
Paint iffy
15 in rims (seems odd to me)
The paint where the oil cap goes was blistered and peeling (overheated?)
During the test drive the hod popped open
The car physically moved when selecting gear
Coolant was leaking after I parked it

The good:
It did start, go, and stop
It was black and an e34 touring

Any value in this? junker, or should I walk away, I'd need a complete new interior which I had not planned on and the coolant combined with a very weak engine is of concern

ShapeShifter
05-18-2015, 02:42 PM
Sounds like your average $1200 touring....

S1L1SC
05-18-2015, 03:15 PM
$7,500 is way too high for that many issues.

priler
05-18-2015, 03:52 PM
I would not walk away from that touring,i would RUN AWAY from it. the value of these old German luxury cars is 100% in the condition and the maintenance that has been done that is still recent and applicable(because there're certain things you need to do again after many more miles).

let me make sure you understand what I mean. when I say 100% in the condition and maintenance,i mean 100%. that touring has neither the condition or maintenance. that VW dealer would have to GIVE ME about $1000 for me to buy it. then,i'd need to invest roughly $5000(purely ballpark,probably more) just to get it satisfactory(as DD) but not perfect.

cddallara
05-18-2015, 03:55 PM
Sounds like your average $1200 touring....
This.

frstevec
05-18-2015, 08:13 PM
one of my 1995 BMW 525IT's: WBAHJ63285SGD24761 (build 5/94) $1,300. 10/13/13 through 5/18/2015
MarcAutoBody, paint 4/5 $1,500. ECStuning- emblems, lic plate lite $100. Alloywheels- 225/60/15 tires/balanced $300. BMAParts- swaybar links Meyle HD front and Lem rear $085. BMAParts-valv cov gasket, maint, serpentine belt $119. 5/13/15 PelicanParts hood and tailgate struts $127. TurnerBMW tailgate pieces $095. PelicanParts 2 tie rod assys LEM $100. FPCupper cntrl arms Meyle HD $128. lemforderrear dog bones $095. rearbrake pads Stoptech $040. lowercontrol arms Lem. $160. intakeboot $023. remanufacturedAlternator $120. 2/2/15 6nkg plugs $040. 5/13/15 waterpump $078. thermostat176 degree $022. 9011light bulbs $038. ACtension mount/pully and belt $040 O2sensor replacement (tools) and part $125 *laboro2-= $035. *64538390469 heater control valve $037 *ACDryer $040 *glovecompt hinge 25 *Tailgatetrim 170 *tailgatelock and key 70 *ChargeAC 300. brakehoses $038 SO FAR $,5.500 5/18/15

Sam Son
05-18-2015, 08:24 PM
Don't buy from a dealer.

frstevec
05-18-2015, 08:27 PM
My BLUEBMW 525it 1995 WBAHJ6328SGD25358 purchased8/24/13 for $1,700.00 Transportation to and from pickup 150.00 Turner:sway-bar links and fog light bulb 78.00 Turner: rearrotors 90.00 stop tec pads rear 50.00 fuel pump relay 13.00 thermo housing thermostat 50.00 clutch fan 40.00 Pelican: frontrotors 115.00
tension strap 81l 16111179159 21.00 BMW tailgate shocks 2 42.00 BMW rear glass shocks 2 42.00 tension strap 81l 16111179160 21.00 dog bones lemforder- 44.00 bmw fan shroud 40.00 replaced front bumper with black one nc vc gasket /washers 90.00 Tires 3season Michelin 525.00 4 new wheels 275.00
meylehd rear shock mounts 60.00 plus PartsCar 95 525i manual sedan $1,000. conversioncosts – clutch, etc 600. total so far $5,500.

Kinghorn
05-18-2015, 10:03 PM
To answer OP's original question...

Most reliable e34 touring, would be the m50 (525it) if it was taken care of. If your looking for something to mod and go fast with, 530it. If your looking for something decent on gas, reliable, maintenance friendly'er, and easier on the wallet, go with the m50 525it. Honestly, my idea of the best e34 touring would be a 1995 525it, facelifted front end, and black exterior on black interior.

Only feature to stay away from would be the sunroof... We all know these are hassles and worth lots more if you attain a touring with a functioning sunroof, but good luck if it ever goes down.

You should be able to pickup either e34 touring in good condition with only minor issues in the ballpark of 2,000$ - 3,500$
Dont even try to straggle with those 1200$ beater tourings you find on clist if your only trying to put in 3k.

Hofmeister
05-18-2015, 10:15 PM
Most of us who have been messing with these cars for a few years would recommend the 95 MY....
Mines not a touring but check into a 95MY with a 94 build date. All the 95 goodies without EWSII.

Creesic
05-19-2015, 07:33 AM
Okay Thanks!.going to look at one today. Not the engine I want, but it'll give me an idea before I commit some serious time to the search. It does not need to be a track worthy, just something I can fit the family in with some space for cargo, and has more character than an Acura wagon or Subaru.

The 90 325i has flat spots on new tires after only being driven 5K miles in the last 4+years. The 92 318i is my DD now. Both are clean oem, compliments at gas stations and at traffic light cars. I think I'll find this "perfect" project touring and add in the options that should have had like sports seats. It looks like the leveling system can be deleted, and with stiffened suspension, not sure that I'd need it, although cool feature when working.

Great looking cars to all that post here, had to look through the e34 touring post more than once, thanks!

- - - Updated - - -

So I test drove a black 94' Touring 530
VW Dealer = new tires and brakes
156K Miles, no service records
ask is $7,500

The bad:
Suspension shot
AC works only on high revs
WEAK Engine,I mean step on the gas and your looking at the MPH thinking, "move!"
Blown back box, maybe more
No Radio
Head lining and interior shot, all of it, dash seats, door cads, everything on the inside
Leaking moon roof
Only driver window works,others jam or fall down
Tail lamps cracked
Paint iffy
15 in rims (seems odd to me)
The paint where the oil cap goes was blistered and peeling (overheated?)
During the test drive the hod popped open
The car physically moved when selecting gear
Coolant was leaking after I parked it

The good:
It did start, go, and stop
It was black and an e34 touring

Any value in this? junker, or should I walk away, I'd need a complete new interior which I had not planned on and the coolant combined with a very weak engine is of concern

As everyone's already said, you run away from that thing right now. Waaaay too expensive for those issues. You can find one for under $1500 in that condition.

Anyways, to be clear about your list, since nobody else commented, suspension being shot is normal for those cars. Just like any other to repair, but still a bit of money depending on how much you need to replace.

Are you sure it was high revs for the AC system? Or only when you were moving? Either way, that can be very expensive. Another reason to walk away.

It was also a 530, and still THAT slow? You have to compare it to a 525, which you should be looking at anyways, but in general, these things should be very slow. Pretty much everything should be beating you off of the line.

If the interior's messed up, walk away. That's expensive stuff, unless you have a junkyard full of tourings, which nobody does. They're very hard to find. Along with the roof. You probably didn't test it, but it's safe to assume it doesn't work. Not a terrible fix for the leaking, but everything else can be very confusing.

Windows aren't cheap, but also pretty common for old cars.

My tails are cracked as well. I think it's very common.

Paint is universally annoying and expensive.

15in rims are normal for these cars.

Don't worry about the paint on the head either. That's normal. Mine does it, and I think every other m50 does too. The m50 runs pretty hot anyways, so just imagine how many heat cycles that paint has gone through.

If it moved during gear selection, that's a bad sign. Plus if it started leaking coolant when you parked it.... Jeez, you shouldn't have gotten into it to begin with. You were probably in danger driving that thing.

That car was probably worth less than $1k.

Don't ever go back to that dealer. Ever.

Buy from a person. Not a dealer.

gtopaul
05-19-2015, 08:21 AM
I have two e30 convertibles, looking to get rid of one and buy an e34 touring

Which e34, is most reliable and can pile on the miles?

Also are there any features to stay away from?

Any estimate for price I should look to pay for a 120k mile or under car that is a good runner but "needs TLC?"

I figure (based off e30s) I'd need to put 3k into it to make it a good safe strong daily driver, is that reasonable?

Thanks!

I started with E30's and the E34 is no more expensive to maintain. It might actually be cheaper now since there seem to be better deals on E34 parts than E30 parts, easier to find too. I bought my 92 10 years ago for $3k with 184k miles on it. College professor bought it for his daughter to attend college in (right, a wagon for a girl going to school, like that's gonna work). It only needed front control arms & a power steering hose but I also did H&R euro Touring springs right away. $3k should be fine if you start with a good, mechanically sound, car. Expect interior issues and maybe brakes and suspension but still you should be ok. Even the SLS isn't that big a deal to fix if it has issues but you have to shop for a deal on parts. My Touring now has 216k miles on it and I have a three inch binder full of receipts totaling over $25k last I looked at it. But, it's a hobby car and a daily driver so I threw a lot of extra money at it with the M3 engine and M parts. I ran into the back of a truck that suddenly stopped in Atlanta about 18 months ago and State Farm paid $7500 to fix the front. Shows the prices are going up on these cars if they thought it worth saving. I thought for sure it would total. Anyway, good cars although I prefer the narrow grill classic look on the early models.

http://www.MyEasyPics.com/is.php?i=1163385&img=style184.JPG