New owner. Question

[JWhitehead]

Good Morning everyone-

My name is Jim and I acquired a 2001 525iT about 4 weeks ago. Black over black, sport pack, style 5's, 58,800 miles at purchase, autotragic transmission. It has lived in Los Angeles its entire life. Sorry for the terrible picture, this was the night I picked the car up and have been in the process of moving for the past few weeks, so no good pictures of the car (plus it's filthy right now....).

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=523520&stc=1

Anyhow, I have run into a bit of an issue. There is an acrid stench when the car warms up and I come to a stop. It is definitely not coolant nor burning plastic, and with my experience burning oil on previous cars (I come from the world of early, carbureted rotaries), it does not stink like burning synthetic. We came to a stop while driving to Disneyland a couple of weeks ago on our way to the Star Wars Half Marathon and some smoke came into the cabin.

I took a look around the engine bay and noticed that the rear exhaust manifold heat shield was coated in burnt oil, and in talking to my buddy that's a salesman at a BMW dealer in Ann Arbor, MI he was convinced it was the VCG, as it's a well known failure point on these cars. I ordered a VCG and new front/rear roundals from getbmwparts.com and did some work this past weekend.

The VCG took me about 4 hours on Saturday afternoon start to finish. I pulled the VCG (it was still super supple and pliable, which leads me to believe it had been recently changed), cleaned it, cleaned the head mating surface, installed the VCG on the Valve Cover, ran a bead of black RTV around the VCG, and installed it. I also did an oil change with Mobil 1 5w30 and a Mobil 1 filter (where do you source your oil filters?). After install I scrubbed down the rear exhaust manifold heat shield with Simple Green so I could see if I was still leaking oil.

Here is where the problem lies: I still have an acrid stench coming from the engine bay and the exhaust manifold heat shield is still clean. The stench is still present, but not as strong. Any idea what it could be?

Thanks!

-Jim

[RVAE34]

I would first try changing out the two cabin air filters to the left and right side right near the cowl when you open the hood. Could just be saturated with the particles causing the stench to remain. Easy and cheap first attempt at the next stage of the fix.

And congrats!! Looks like you got a great car!

[theWalkinator]

Congrats on your new ride! The car looks very clean.

I would also double check the two half moon areas in the rare to see they seat properly.

[JWhitehead]

I would first try changing out the two cabin air filters to the left and right side right near the cowl when you open the hood. Could just be saturated with the particles causing the stench to remain. Easy and cheap first attempt at the next stage of the fix.

And congrats!! Looks like you got a great car!

Thanks! It has a few issues here and there (needs two new roundals and some paint touch-up work on the trailing edge of the rear passenger door) but overall it is super clean. When I pulled the CarFax before purchasing it, it had done 24,000 miles in the first 3 years (probably a lease) and then a title was issued. 34k miles in the subsequent years. I REALLY wanted a 5 speed car, but this one was too low of mileage to pass up. (In case anyone asks, I got it for $7400 +TTL).

Plans for the future: Drive it until the trans dies. Swap in a 5 speed. Once the car stops passing emissions, drop in something more modern and easier to get parts for (I'm thinking a GM eRod LS3/LT1 (for CARB reasons) + 7 speed manual).

I will try pulling the filters and driving it for a few days to see if that fixes the issue.


Congrats on your new ride! The car looks very clean.

I would also double check the two half moon areas in the rare to see they seat properly.

Thanks for the suggestion. I will check for oil behind the valve cover today before I head home.

[RVAE34]

The half moons and where the timing cover mates to the head are the only places I add RTV btw.

[JWhitehead]

Thanks for the information. I wasn't sure so I hit the entire thing with RTV. If I have to do the VCG again it wont' be too bad. Parts store down the street sells RTV cleaner (spray it on a rag and rub it on the residue and the RTV comes right off).

[RVAE34]

I would also only get an OEM VCG. I have known lots of people to have the cheap corner store gaskets leak in a very short amount of time even when properly installed.

[Ed CT]

Congrats on the purchase.

Also, check that the spark plugs are not loiose (if you haven't already done this while doing the VCG). Some plug brands have been known to loosen up and allow combustion gases to spew out. These fumes will get into the cabin.

It could also just be that the VCG was recently changed (as you said) and there are still some residual drippings that are still migrating to the exhaust manifold and burning off.

[JWhitehead]

I would also only get an OEM VCG. I have known lots of people to have the cheap corner store gaskets leak in a very short amount of time even when properly installed.

I ordered the OEM VCG from getbmwparts.com. If I need to re-do it I'll just grab one from a local dealer. The discount isn't worth it for one part after shipping and handling charges.


Congrats on the purchase.

Also, check that the spark plugs are not loiose (if you haven't already done this while doing the VCG). Some plug brands have been known to loosen up and allow combustion gases to spew out. These fumes will get into the cabin.

It could also just be that the VCG was recently changed (as you said) and there are still some residual drippings that are still migrating to the exhaust manifold and burning off.

I threw a set of NGK's into it while I had it apart. The CEL turned on yesterday on my drive into work. I have this on order and will use it with Torque Pro. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NZTZLQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- - - Updated - - -

So I just ran downstairs after eating my lunch and did a cursory feel behind the cylinder head (around the two humps in the VCG) and it's dry. I'll feel around the side of the VCG before hitting the road today.

I did pull the passenger side cabin air filter and found some leaves/feathers in there, so I'll be pulling both of them when I get home and vacuuming that area out.

I'm going to grab a can of brake cleaner and spray down the passenger side of the motor to get any additional drips out to give myself a fresh start. I will also drive for the rest of the week sans cabin air filters to see if they're holding onto some of the smell.

Does anyone have a suggestion as to where to get decent prices on carbon activated air filters?

Thanks!

-Jim

[JWhitehead]

Since it looks as if my posts have disappeared...


I would also only get an OEM VCG. I have known lots of people to have the cheap corner store gaskets leak in a very short amount of time even when properly installed.

I ordered a OEM VCG through getbmwparts.com. $39.99 + ~$14 for shipping & handling (spread over 3 parts). If I need to re-do the gasket I'll grab one from a local dealer b/c the discount isn't worth paying for the S&H through getbmwparts.com (OEM gasket is $50 from dealer).


Congrats on the purchase.

Also, check that the spark plugs are not loiose (if you haven't already done this while doing the VCG). Some plug brands have been known to loosen up and allow combustion gases to spew out. These fumes will get into the cabin.

It could also just be that the VCG was recently changed (as you said) and there are still some residual drippings that are still migrating to the exhaust manifold and burning off.

I put a new set of NGK's in while I had it apart. Old plugs didn't look bad, but why not put in fresh ones while it's apart?

I went downstairs at lunch and ran my hand along the back of the head. No oil residue there. I'll run my hand around the rest of the head before driving home to see if there is any fresh oil leaking anywhere. Once I get home and the car cools off I'll hit the VCG area with some brake cleaner to rinse away any oil residue.

I also had the CEL trip on my way to work on Monday. I have a OBD2 Bluetooth dongle on the way (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NZTZLQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I will be pulling codes with this and Torque Pro. I'm thinking I may have broken a brittle wire on the rear O2 sensor while working with the VCG. Fuel consumption seems to have doubled since the CEL was tripped.

While downstairs at lunch I pulled the PS cabin air filter. Dirty and has some leaves/feathers in it. I'll pull both filters and clean out the housings. Will drive for the rest of the week sans filters to see if it's residue built up in the filters that's causing the remaining smell.

Is there a place online that has reasonably priced activated carbon filters for the E39?

Thanks!

-Jim

[geargrinder]

The half moons and where the timing cover mates to the head are the only places I add RTV btw.

Correct. Thats a more-is-not-better situation.

Laying a full bead all the way around is not proper method for sure and should/could mean globs of RTV dripping out randomly, wonder if its burning RTV..?

[RVAE34]

Yup, I just smudge a dab with my finger on each area.

[JWhitehead]

Correct. Thats a more-is-not-better situation.

Laying a full bead all the way around is not proper method for sure and should/could mean globs of RTV dripping out randomly, wonder if its burning RTV..?

The smell is the exact same as before the VCG was replaced.

So tonight I took out both cabin air filters and vacuumed all the debris out of them. I will drive sans filters for a few days to see if that helps.

I also cleaned the area with non-flammible plastic-safe aerosol degreaser (designed for bicycles: http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/bicycle-degreasers/speed-bike-degreaser).

I will update tomorrow when I am at work to say whether I am still smelling it.

Thanks!

-Jim

[JWhitehead]

So the smell was diminished on my way into work this morning, and I will check around the VCG at lunch like I did yesterday. Will update in 5 or 6 hours.

Thanks for all the advice!

-Jim

[RVAE34]

Great news! Go ahead and replace those filters though.

[jstern]

+1. You definitely don't want any debris to get sucked into the HVAC system. The system is quite complicated and can get messed up with dirt/dust/junk getting into stepper motor flap hinges, evaporator or heater cores, etc.

BTW-Mann filters are the brand of choice for oil, fuel, cabin air filters. Amazon has good prices as do ECS, etc. Just Google what you want and compare.

[JWhitehead]

Great news! Go ahead and replace those filters though.

It's still not gone though. I found some weeping at the front passenger corner of the VCG. I will be cleaning more and checking torque tonight after work.


+1. You definitely don't want any debris to get sucked into the HVAC system. The system is quite complicated and can get messed up with dirt/dust/junk getting into stepper motor flap hinges, evaporator or heater cores, etc.

BTW-Mann filters are the brand of choice for oil, fuel, cabin air filters. Amazon has good prices as do ECS, etc. Just Google what you want and compare.

Thanks for the advice. I just ordered a pack of 2 MANN Cabin air filters off of Amazon. They'll be here tomorrow. I'll vacuum out the debris from my old ones and throw them back in tonight.

[Dking078]

It's still not gone though. I found some weeping at the front passenger corner of the VCG. I will be cleaning more and checking torque tonight after work. Thanks for the advice. I just ordered a pack of 2 MANN Cabin air filters off of Amazon. They'll be here tomorrow. I'll vacuum out the debris from my old ones and throw them back in tonight.

Amazon or autohausAZ are great places for OEM or OES parts!

Hope it works out well. I would check pretty much any hose/rubber that could possibly lead to an issue.

[JWhitehead]

So I took a look at things when I got home and found oil on the top of my rear heat shield. Pulled the trim off of the motor and went around the bolts again. The bolt above where the oil is needed 1/2 turn to get snug and one of the front bolts was rather loose. I am guessing heat cycling for the rear bolt and that I simply missed the front bolt. Cleaning and seeing if this solves the stink.

[JWhitehead]

Another thing that I noticed was that the heat shield under the rear exhaust manifold has a lot of oil on it. I will be jacking the car up and scrubbing it with simple green.

[JWhitehead]

I would first try changing out the two cabin air filters to the left and right side right near the cowl when you open the hood. Could just be saturated with the particles causing the stench to remain. Easy and cheap first attempt at the next stage of the fix.

And congrats!! Looks like you got a great car!

Good call on the cabin air filters. I cleaned them out last night and re-installed them as a stopgap until my new Mann filters arrive and there was a strong oil stench when I drove into work this morning (before the car was up to operating temperature, which is when I normally smell the burnt oil stench).

I will update as things progress.

[geargrinder]

With another car I once had a similar problem with contam'd cabin air filters, and equally didn't want to put them back in nor leave it wide-open. It was pretty easy to quick fab a stop-gap out of a cheap hardware store furnace air filter and some hardware screen - cut & bend the hardware screen to make a little cupped holder, then cut the filter to fit, done. Worked great actually, even if it didn't filter as much as the OEM setup it was better than nothing for the interim.

[JWhitehead]

Went down and checked around the head before taking a walk at lunch. Looks to still be free of oil. I will check again when I get home tonight, and I will be putting the car on jackstands to scrub the heat shields. Hopefully I will be able to clean enough oil out from the engine bay that when I put new HVAC filters in, the smell will be gone.

[Ed CT]

Went down and checked around the head before taking a walk at lunch. Looks to still be free of oil. I will check again when I get home tonight, and I will be putting the car on jackstands to scrub the heat shields. Hopefully I will be able to clean enough oil out from the engine bay that when I put new HVAC filters in, the smell will be gone.

May want to run it a while after you scrub the heat shields to get the Simple Green burnt off, too, before you put the new cabin filters in. Otherwise, you'll have a new funk attached to your new filters! LOL

[JWhitehead]

May want to run it a while after you scrub the heat shields to get the Simple Green burnt off, too, before you put the new cabin filters in. Otherwise, you'll have a new funk attached to your new filters! LOL

I'll scrub them down with soapy water when I finish degreasing them. They look to be reasonably accessiblefrom under the car.

[JWhitehead]

So I spent quite some time under the car Friday after work scrubbing with Simple Green and shop towels. I also hosed a lot of it down with brake cleaner, and added a UV dye to the engine oil to trace if I have any outstanding leaks. I have been driving it around all weekend and will climb under it this week to see if I can find any UV tinted oil leaking with my black light.

[AquilaBMW]

Seems the troops have already done the work here.... I am just popping in. Hope it all comes together.

[JWhitehead]

Seems the troops have already done the work here.... I am just popping in. Hope it all comes together.

Thank you for the kind words. I'm keeping it up-to-date in case someone needs to reference it in the future.

[JWhitehead]

So I got my Bluetooth OBD2 Reader and pulled a P0491/P0492 code. What should I be looking for around the head that could have been bumped while I was replacing the VCG?

The wires going into the rear O2 sensor were bent at a 90 degree angle right where they terminate into the sensor. It couldn't be this, as each O2 sensor has its own code, correct?

[JWhitehead]

So I killed two birds with one stone tonight. After doing a bit is searching between here and the Bimmerfest forums, I went into the garage to take a look at my secondary air pump system. I noticed while swapping the VCG that there was a red section of hose attaching to the round silver thing (gets super hot while running....now I know why.....). Looked to be a splice for the factory vacuum line.

Traced it around the head and found that it was completely broken just before it attaches to the back of the intake manifold. I had felt an ever so slight stumble at idle today and assumed a vacuum leak. So I will be replacing the vacuum line with some simple rubber for the time being. Later I will source a section of viton for permanent replacement.

Also, while I was tracing the vacuum line I noticed some fresh oil on the lines by the second to the rear valve cover bolt. Grabbed my UV light and turned off the overhead light. Nice glow coming from the UV dye. Looks like I will be redoing the VCG this coming weekend.

TL;DR: Found broken vacuum line going from the vac. Secondary solenoid to back of intake manifold. While in found an oil leak. Do not run RTV around the whole VCG next time idiot.

Until this weekend

-Jim

[Flounderasu]

Couple of things since a lot of good advice here - don't forget to change the rubber grommets for the bolts that hold the VC on. You can just pop out the bolts from the grommets rather than buying new bolts.

[geargrinder]

LOL. I bet anything that vac leak should sort out your stumble and codes.

For the VCG - just clean everything down super clean (acetone or brake cleaner or whatever). That is the true key to a good VCG seal IME across engines and car makes.

And then just wee dabs of sealer at the half moons and where the front timing chain cover / VANOS seams are.

This Pelican article has some pretty good pics of how much you want to dab. Just little teeny smears.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Valve-Cover/E36-Valve-Cover.htm

[JWhitehead]

Thanks. I'll hit NAPA on my way home and grab the grommets (I didn't replace them last time).

[JWhitehead]

Well son of a bitch. Went to pull the vacuum line that was causing my CEL and found that I pinched it between the valve cover and the head. Found the reason why I need to do my VCG again.

524454

[geargrinder]

LOL! But good answer, right? Solves "all" your problems!?

[JWhitehead]

So I replaced the VCG again on Sunday. Looks like part of my VC is permanently stained from UV dye, so that will make tracing leaks harder.

I am assuming that re-torquing VC bolts after heat cycling is normal, yes? I found most bolts needed another 10-25% of a turn to get them tight again (with the exception of the bolt hidden by the PS cabin filter box).

Still have some stench, but have not seen any leaks with my UV light, so now I may have to scrub the exhaust down pipes to get rid of all residual oil before replacing cabin air filters.

[Ed CT]

So I replaced the VCG again on Sunday. Looks like part of my VC is permanently stained from UV dye, so that will make tracing leaks harder.

I am assuming that re-torquing VC bolts after heat cycling is normal, yes? I found most bolts needed another 10-25% of a turn to get them tight again (with the exception of the bolt hidden by the PS cabin filter box).

Still have some stench, but have not seen any leaks with my UV light, so now I may have to scrub the exhaust down pipes to get rid of all residual oil before replacing cabin air filters.

And did your replacing the pinched vac line solve your other issues?

[geargrinder]

I don' recall needing much re-tightening w/ my VC. The rubber grommet system pretty much lets you tighten them fully then the grommets keep everything tensioned.

[JWhitehead]

Looked around with my UV light again and I have oil leaking in the exact same spot AGAIN. Passenger side of the engine, second to last VC bolt. I haven't fully pulled and cleaned the VC any time that I've redone the VCG (just laid it to the side with the wiring still attached).

Are cracked valve covers common on these motors? I'm at a loss, since it is my second BMW VCG that I've installed (third VCG that's been on the car since I got it) and at least the last 2 have leaked in the exact same spot.

[geargrinder]

yeah I'd never do VCG w/o completely removing the VC's. I don't understand what you mean by leaving wiring attached but I'm not an I6 pro so no surprise there.

[AquilaBMW]

I have seen cracked VCs on the I6 engines before.

[RVAE34]

Yes, as have I. Some people will over torque them.

[JWhitehead]

What is torque spec and is there an appropriate pattern?

[JWhitehead]

Good news and bad news. Found the reason for the leak. Yay! Cracked valve cover. :(

It is cracked around one of the bolt bosses. No way I would have seen that. Had to use an inspection mirror and UV dye. Now to weigh my options: attempt a cheap bastard repair with RTV and drive it until it leaks again or just bite the bullet and order a new valve cover.

-Jim

[justinca540i]

New valve covers are $320 plus new gaskets for $20. Little more expensive than a quick temporary fix. But does bring assurance to not having it leaking again.

[AquilaBMW]

Or go to one of the salvage yards and pick up a replacement.

[e39kiwi]

nice wagon you have

[geargrinder]

Or go to one of the salvage yards and pick up a replacement.

This. That's an ideal junkyard part as long as you look it over closely and be sure you get a good one.

[JWhitehead]

New valve covers are $320 plus new gaskets for $20. Little more expensive than a quick temporary fix. But does bring assurance to not having it leaking again.

I know that getbmwparts.com has them for ~$315 + shipping. All of the dealers near me have said that it comes with the VCG. Two dealer prices near me are $410 and $510.

Where are you finding a VCG for $20? getbmwparts.com is $40 and local dealer was $73.


Or go to one of the salvage yards and pick up a replacement.

I've thought about that. I have no problem doing that with metal parts, but plastic is iffy. I may call around during lunch today.


nice wagon you have

TYVM. I need to re-wash it and take some photographs.


This. That's an ideal junkyard part as long as you look it over closely and be sure you get a good one.

I am contemplating this.

Thanks all!

- - - Updated - - -

Another question:

What models use the same valve cover? I searched the part number on getbmwparts.com and it came up with:

325/330/525/530/Z3 w/2.5l. Is the VC for the 328/528 different?

I might run to this place tomorrow morning: http://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/locations/LKQ_Pick_Your_Part_-_Sun_Valley-263/recents/

What cars should I look at the VC on?

[John in VA]

You posted the answer to your last question in your post. Cylinder head cover 11121432928 is used on:
E39 525i Sedan
E39 525i Touring
E39 528i Sedan
E39 528i Touring
E39 530i Sedan


E46 320i Sedan
E46 323Ci Convertible
E46 323Ci Coupe
E46 323i Sedan
E46 323i Touring
E46 325Ci Convertible
E46 325Ci Coupe
E46 325i Sedan
E46 325i Touring
E46 325xi Touring
E46 325xi Sedan
E46 328Ci Coupe
E46 328i Sedan
E46 330Ci Coupe
E46 330Ci Convertible
E46 330i Sedan
E46 330xi Sedan


E53 X5 3.0i SUV


Z3 Z3 2.5 Roadster
Z3 Z3 2.5i Roadster
Z3 Z3 2.8 Roadster
Z3 Z3 2.8 Coupe
Z3 Z3 3.0i Coupe
Z3 Z3 3.0i Roadster

http://realoem.com/bmw/partxref.do?part=11121432928

[JWhitehead]

Well here is the crack. Worse than I thought. Will probably be heading to the pick-a-part tomorrow to get a replacement. I don't think that RTV will seal that well enough. I may grab some QwikSteel to see if that will seal this one up as a temp. backup.

525230

[JWhitehead]

525231

[JWhitehead]

525232

[Da Beemers]

I just noticed that you are in LA. Have you ever been u-pick-parts in San Fernando?

[justinca540i]

[QUOTE=JWhitehead;28328426]I know that getbmwparts.com has them for ~$315 + shipping. All of the dealers near me have said that it comes with the VCG. Two dealer prices near me are $410 and $510.

Where are you finding a VCG for $20? getbmwparts.com is $40 and local dealer was $73.

They were from ECStuning, but aftermarket by elring. They were for the E39 540i V8, didn't realize you had an i6/ Sorry, than that is correct about $50.
/QUOTE]

[JWhitehead]

I just noticed that you are in LA. Have you ever been u-pick-parts in San Fernando?

I live in the West valley. I am headiing out momentarily for a u-pull-it in Sun Valley.

[Da Beemers]

They filmed a Subaru commercial there that I see often now, it brings back many memories. Good luck in your search. If you can't find a good one, JB weld makes a product called Water Weld, which is amazing in it's ability to withstand pressure and temperature. I repaired a plastic radiator on a Mazda that never leaked a drop, and was still holding 80,000 miles later when the engine finally blew.

[geargrinder]

I bet the JBW temp fix would work though I'd rather as JW says - have it as a shelf spare than my daily.

FWIW JW - if you do that, I'd suggest this technique:
1. most importantly drill stop holes at each end of the crack. can be the tiniest drill bit you have (like one of those tiny PCB ones even...).
2. then I'd dremel it out a little along the crack from above. not all the way through aka not making the through-crack bigger but enough to make a little bigger above valley for the JBW to sit in.
3. then heat the part up moderately w/ a heat gun so its hot to the touch, and then drip the JBW in from the top.
4. let it start hardening but when it gets to the putty-like stage, scrape any residue from the inside so it's super flush and clean on the inside - should be near invisible (top-side can be gloppy although you you play the heatgun on the top lightly while its still wet it will start to run a bit and get glossy and smooth out any messy glops you might have had from application)

The holes will keep the crack from continuing to spread after the patch - there's stress in the plastic causing that crack and you'll relieve it w/ a hole drilled right at each end of the crack.
By dremeling it out and applying the patch from above you get a little more surface area, provide a nice pool of epoxy to run into the crack, and, you create a larger v-shaped plug of the bond material (aka the JBW) so it can't fall or get sucked in even if the crack opens up again.
By heating the part the JBW (epoxy) will thin out and run deep into the crack as well as start kicking (hardening) and bonding to the part quickly.

[Da Beemers]

^ That is pro advice! Clearly GG, you have been down that road before...

[Flounderasu]

There was someone local selling one. Lmk if you can't find one and I'll get you in touch with the local seller. It was on a private FB page so I can't link it where it would work.

[geargrinder]

^ That is pro advice! Clearly GG, you have been down that road before...

Ha. Yeah. Lotsa those kinda things... Used to repair my fiberglass boat too.

[JimLev]

Good GG advice. Wash the crack area with a solvent to get the oil off before you apply the JB Weld.
I use Marine JB Weld on our V8 valve covers before powder coating, it is good to 600F, withstands oil too.
This takes 6 hrs to cure and can be sanded to the valve cover contour when dry.

[geargrinder]

Crap! Nailed it Jim - the one tip I left out. DOH.

Yeah solventize clean that mofo both before and after you drill and grind. If you dont do it before, then there's the chance the grinding will smear contamination into your bond surfaces. But you also want a quick wipe after.

But be careful - I'm not sure what those covers are made of. Acetone and other aggressive solvents will melt ABS and some other plastics for instance. Using a tiny bit of something that solves the plastic can actually be OK just before applying the epoxy as it will really help it grab the slightly 'melty' surface, and acetone is a solvent for epoxies so its OK to have a bit in there, but overdoing it will make a huge mess.

[JWhitehead]

I bet the JBW temp fix would work though I'd rather as JW says - have it as a shelf spare than my daily.

FWIW JW - if you do that, I'd suggest this technique:
1. most importantly drill stop holes at each end of the crack. can be the tiniest drill bit you have (like one of those tiny PCB ones even...).
2. then I'd dremel it out a little along the crack from above. not all the way through aka not making the through-crack bigger but enough to make a little bigger above valley for the JBW to sit in.
3. then heat the part up moderately w/ a heat gun so its hot to the touch, and then drip the JBW in from the top.
4. let it start hardening but when it gets to the putty-like stage, scrape any residue from the inside so it's super flush and clean on the inside - should be near invisible (top-side can be gloppy although you you play the heatgun on the top lightly while its still wet it will start to run a bit and get glossy and smooth out any messy glops you might have had from application)

The holes will keep the crack from continuing to spread after the patch - there's stress in the plastic causing that crack and you'll relieve it w/ a hole drilled right at each end of the crack.
By dremeling it out and applying the patch from above you get a little more surface area, provide a nice pool of epoxy to run into the crack, and, you create a larger v-shaped plug of the bond material (aka the JBW) so it can't fall or get sucked in even if the crack opens up again.
By heating the part the JBW (epoxy) will thin out and run deep into the crack as well as start kicking (hardening) and bonding to the part quickly.

Thanks for the recommendation. Cracks are stress risers, and I was planning on doing exactly what you suggested. Cleaning it with Alcohol. If the alcohol does not break through the slight buildup on the inside of the VC I will try something harsher.


There was someone local selling one. Lmk if you can't find one and I'll get you in touch with the local seller. It was on a private FB page so I can't link it where it would work.

Thanks! I actually found one at Five Star Dismantlers in Sun Valley. $150.


Good GG advice. Wash the crack area with a solvent to get the oil off before you apply the JB Weld.
I use Marine JB Weld on our V8 valve covers before powder coating, it is good to 600F, withstands oil too.
This takes 6 hrs to cure and can be sanded to the valve cover contour when dry.

Thanks for the material suggestion. I was going to use an epoxy I had in my tool chest but it's only good for 200f. Not going to happen.


Crap! Nailed it Jim - the one tip I left out. DOH.

Yeah solventize clean that mofo both before and after you drill and grind. If you dont do it before, then there's the chance the grinding will smear contamination into your bond surfaces. But you also want a quick wipe after.

But be careful - I'm not sure what those covers are made of. Acetone and other aggressive solvents will melt ABS and some other plastics for instance. Using a tiny bit of something that solves the plastic can actually be OK just before applying the epoxy as it will really help it grab the slightly 'melty' surface, and acetone is a solvent for epoxies so its OK to have a bit in there, but overdoing it will make a huge mess.

Yep. Another good solvent is MEK (methyl ethyl keytone). It will take PVC back to its individual polymer form. Great stuff, but super aggressive.


I have been driving it for the past few days and it seems like the only burning off at this point is the oil that is sitting on the exhaust down where I cannot reach from the top. It has been rainy the past day, so once it dries out I will clean that all up and I should be G2G.

The place I found my VC at said it's a normal place to crack, because of techs rushing the job and using their electric/air ratchet to torque the VC.