FSU prob dead... any brand tips? Any lazy blower fuse tricks?

[geargrinder]

So suddenly in the midst of a cold snap of course blower motor stops working entirely today.

Assume its the FSU. Pull it out and find what appears to be a Sitronic from 08, so orig owner of the car must have gotten 6yrs out of the original, then this ones been cranking along for 6yrs or so... makes sense.

The dealer part looks to be $100+... aftermarket half-that...

Anybody got any update on brands that are good/bad/indifferent for replacements?

Any suggestions on lazy-man tricks to pulling the blower fuse without taking the glovebox out? Would like to just check that looks OK while I'm at it... I can almost finger tip it but not quite...

[edjack]

Virtually no one on this forum has had good luck with non-BMW FSUs. If you do buy one, make sure it has 33 spikes on the heat sink.

[Flounderasu]

I went to the stealer because it was 115 degrees out and I couldn't take not having AC. I would go to getbmwparts.com to get a better price if you NEED OE.

Pulling the fuse you can do by feel. Just drop the panel - unlatch the glove reach up. I'll post the pic I had of the new one I pulled out so if you decide to go the Behr route you can compare labels.


New is on the left -

https://i.imgur.com/23TJX9Y.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/FVu5HLV.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/86xnFTW.jpg

[BMW540san]

I've done a lot of research and went with Valeo brand from RMeuropean for $59 (I think the price went down to $54). Made in Germany, appears very well made and no problems after 1+ year on my 528. I believe it has 39 spikes.

[Flounderasu]

I've done a lot of research and went with Valeo brand from RMeuropean for $59 (I think the price went down to $54). Made in Germany, appears very well made and no problems after 1+ year on my 528. I believe it has 39 spikes.

Yeah the sticker from the one I grabbed from the Dealer says Valeo & Sitronic....

[geargrinder]

New is on the left

yep the one i took out is that same sitronic... Think i will prob resort to local dealer w CCA discount if they have it in stock... If they dont, will have to recon options, but looks like i might be able to drive the wifes car for a few days anyway...

[BMW540san]

You may try BMW of Morristown. I've been using them lately and nobody beats their prices and shipping is around $10. Excellent customer service too. Website is currently down but they'll probably fix it soon.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=catalogcenter&siteid=214320&catalogid=0

[cnn]

Go to local junk yard and get a few FSRs for cheap.

Or buy from ebay, but get the used BMW FSRs (I'd buy 2: one for now, and one in glove box).

Don't touch the aftermarket junk.

PS: I buy a lot of used BMW parts from quarrymotusa (http://www.ebay.com/usr/quarrymotusa?_trksid=p2047675.l2559) (Naples, FL). Very good people specialized in used BMW parts:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-HEATER-BLOWER-RESISTOR-FINAL-STAGE-E46-323i-325i-328i-Ci-Xi-M3-E39-E53-X5-/201260213182

[agentrnge]

Geargrinder: +1 Sitronic/Valeo

After forum searching on the brand to get, I went with a Sitronic/Valeo Made in Germany. Its only been in a week. So obviously I cant speak to its longevity :) Pics of old and new in the link.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2152562-FSU-marginal-failure-modes-Weak-blower-fan-sometimes

$65 through Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VQULHI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
vs ~$40 for the made in china variants. Odds of failure in 6 months to 2 years are greater in the cheaper ones based on reviews/posts.

I am curious if you will find your blower works many times better than it had before, as it did with mine.

I did this without taking the glove box out. I removed only the trim piece on the side of the foot-well and the slide out bottom piece on the glove box. I found this contortion to be the easiest: Adjust seat all the way down/back with the back of the seat as flat as it would go, and the hip support in as far as it would go. I then sat upside down on the seat. My legs were hanging over into the rear seat, my ass/back on the edge of the front seat, laying back with my head under the glove box. I was able to replace it about 15 minutes. Which astounded me. Usually when a DIY says 15 mins it takes me 30-45 of poking around and figuring out what the hell to do before I make any progress. Good luck!

[John in VA]

I installed the FSU from wide-band.com (APSX) late last summer after reading about it here or at bimmerfest. The prongs were a tight fit, as mentioned by others, but it's been working great!
Here's one vendor with it:
http://blower-control-switch.dvautoparts.com/discount-store/apsx-wb-fsu-bmw-e39-525-528-530-540-m5-final-stage-unit-blower-motor-resistor-ac-w-jqjmmqpjprii
Here's APSX's eBay offering:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/APSX-WB-FSU-BMW-E39-525-528-530-540-M5-FINAL-STAGE-UNIT-Blower-Motor-Resistor-AC-/181448717900?rmvSB=true

I moved the passenger's seat back out of the way to access the side panel of the center console. Using an extension mirror I located the FSU tucked up in the recess, and extricated it by feel. Once out of the recess under the dash, the old one was easy to unplug. I used a Dremel to take a bit off of each of the threaded posts of the APSX FSU, but it was still a tight fit to get a positive "click" onto the unit - I didn't want it coming loose once it was reinstalled! I found the hardest part was getting it oriented properly on the two mounting pegs.

[geargrinder]

I installed the FSU from wide-band.com (APSX) late last summer after reading about it here or at bimmerfest. The prongs were a tight fit, as mentioned by others, but it's been working great!
Here's one vendor with it:
http://blower-control-switch.dvautoparts.com/discount-store/apsx-wb-fsu-bmw-e39-525-528-530-540-m5-final-stage-unit-blower-motor-resistor-ac-w-jqjmmqpjprii
Here's APSX's eBay offering:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/APSX-WB-FSU-BMW-E39-525-528-530-540-M5-FINAL-STAGE-UNIT-Blower-Motor-Resistor-AC-/181448717900?rmvSB=true

I moved the passenger's seat back out of the way to access the side panel of the center console. Using an extension mirror I located the FSU tucked up in the recess, and extricated it by feel. Once out of the recess under the dash, the old one was easy to unplug. I used a Dremel to take a bit off of each of the threaded posts of the APSX FSU, but it was still a tight fit to get a positive "click" onto the unit - I didn't want it coming loose once it was reinstalled! I found the hardest part was getting it oriented properly on the two mounting pegs.

Yeah that's interesting... looks like a re-engineered part that uses some logical control vs. resistive dividers. They don't seem to sell it direct on amazon anymore...

For the moment a lister has offered me one which should be in the mail already - which is super awesome. Good people all up in here!

I would be interested in playing w/ the APSX but not sure I want to count on that esp if it requires modding - given my garage space is extremely limited w/ the current weather, I need something that I can pop in/out in a second...

[philly98540]

Very cool. Never saw that APSX unit before. Must be transistor switching instead of the resistors or something. Not a bad price.

I did mine about 10 years ago and can't remember what I put in, so I'm no help on this.

Do your Houdini yogi stretches before diving in JC. Have someone ready to yank you out if you get stuck! JK, its not that horrible, but it is tight in there.

[geargrinder]

Agreed... yeah some kind of switched-mode thing maybe.

I got my old one out already - wasn't too bad except the damn connector was a beyotch to get off. Hard to press the tabs when its in place, so I pulled it out w/ the connector on, then popped it off.

Here's the interesting thing though - when it was dangling from the connector it brushed past the trim-screw spot and sparked like the whole heatsink was live. WTF!?

Having some limited hobbyist electronics experience, I am guessing with some confidence that sink isn't supposed to be live at all times, and probably one of the transistors inside has failed short somehow.

But does make me want to check the fuse post-spark... the fuse is a much bigger PITA to get to up in there w/o dropping the glove box. Unless I can magically shrink my hands by 3 sizes.

[philly98540]

Oh snap that sucks. Maybe check for voltage between the fins and chassis ground to see if fuse if popped.

[geargrinder]

Dang. So I rec'd the spare FSU that a lister sent me, tossed it in, and....

No blower lubz. Dang.

Time to get real nitty gritty on the crap, so I pulled out the multi-meter (and the flashlight - it's friggin cold and dark here now...),
Tested the connector pins and had good constant power and good ground and proper control voltage from the HVAC...

All is 100% well at the connector.

Doh. WTF. Is blower bad?

On to the next twilight project - I make up a couple jumpers, manufacturing 'pins' from some old bullet-connectors lying around that need to be down-sized...
Run to Rat Shack for a high-amperage DC SPST switch, and... an hour later...

http://www.j2c3.com/misc/BMW/BlowerHotwire.jpg

Bingo. When you send direct 12V to blower, all is well, full blowage power.

So gotta dial up local stealer and see if they have an FSU on the shelf...

AND pray that's really the problem. Will suck if mysteriously it still doesn't work, given that everything else looks perfectly fine.

In meantime, heck at least I got backup-blower power.

As long as I remember to turn it off everytime I get outa da cah...

[freethrowdunk]

Mine went bad just yesterday. At least I think and hope it's only the FSU. I ordered this one:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VQULHI

[Flounderasu]

Dang. So I rec'd the spare FSU that a lister sent me, tossed it in, and....

No blower lubz. Dang.

Time to get real nitty gritty on the crap, so I pulled out the multi-meter (and the flashlight - it's friggin cold and dark here now...),
Tested the connector pins and had good constant power and good ground and proper control voltage from the HVAC...

All is 100% well at the connector.

Doh. WTF. Is blower bad?

On to the next twilight project - I make up a couple jumpers, manufacturing 'pins' from some old bullet-connectors lying around that need to be down-sized...
Run to Rat Shack for a high-amperage DC SPST switch, and... an hour later...



Bingo. When you send direct 12V to blower, all is well, full blowage power.

So gotta dial up local stealer and see if they have an FSU on the shelf...

AND pray that's really the problem. Will suck if mysteriously it still doesn't work, given that everything else looks perfectly fine.

In meantime, heck at least I got backup-blower power.

As long as I remember to turn it off everytime I get outa da cah...

I have my intermittent working one - only failed when hot - like 110+ outside hot.
I can send that out to you if you want to pay shipping and try that out before throwing more parts at it - I keep it as a spare. Might be worth the USPS flat rate shipping as the sanity check.

[geargrinder]

Thanks Flou - but trying one "should be OK" didn't work so I think I need to try a new new good one just to be sure. You guys are awesome though for the support.

- - - Updated - - -

Okey Dokey - following all common reports, the new dealer FSU immediately fixed all!

Sadly $$$.

@freethrow - let me know how the amazon looks and if it seems to truly be same as the dealer Valeo. I saw too many warnings out there about not buying the amazon/ebay units and couldn't face going blower-free for another week with continued snowstorms and frigid temps predicted...

[Techno Duck]

Bought the one linked above from Amazon a few days ago.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v120/TechnoDuck/2003%20BMW%20E39%20540i/7FA5FB59-47EC-4116-B68F-FD291EB7F977_zpswy6v7w4z.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/TechnoDuck/media/2003%20BMW%20E39%20540i/7FA5FB59-47EC-4116-B68F-FD291EB7F977_zpswy6v7w4z.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v120/TechnoDuck/2003%20BMW%20E39%20540i/608E504C-EE08-4B31-9A7D-F6BF0E3EF6FA_zpss53tv41d.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/TechnoDuck/media/2003%20BMW%20E39%20540i/608E504C-EE08-4B31-9A7D-F6BF0E3EF6FA_zpss53tv41d.jpg.html)

[geargrinder]

Hmm. Looks exactly like the dealer. Seems like the way to go as long as you arent in a bind...

[Flounderasu]

Glad you got it worked out!
Mine came in a bag - but then again I asked them to pull the newest one off their shelf. It was a LOT of money at the stealer....158.92 after tax....

[freethrowdunk]

She's blowing well again.

Old:

http://i.imgur.com/sAyJYiU.jpg

New:

http://i.imgur.com/jMks0xq.jpg?1

[geargrinder]

Thanks FTD - Yep again looks just like dealer. Hmmm... Learning for next time. Seems like that's the one to get.

So many of those ads say "GUARANTEED OEM BMW PART" and you find out later that its not...

Flou mine was $115 after BMWCCA discount walk-up at my dealer. I know I could do better w/ my account at another dealer but didn't want to wait anymore...

[BMW540san]

For anybody that can wait few days and insists on a dealer, at least buy from one that's not greedy.
$92 + $10 shipping is the best deal out there, especially if you buy few other things and $10 shipping is absorbed in savings. If I need dealer part, I only buy from these guys:
http://www.trademotion.com/parts/index.cfm?searchText=64116923204&make=BMW&action=oePartSearch&siteid=214320

[bdhtx]

Morning All. 1998 528i, E39, 131,000 miles. Battery has a drain on it, and after 2 days, need a jump to start. Most posts say to start with FSU, but my fan is operating perfectly, and have not seen it exhibit the "low fan run" at any time. All HVAC is working as it should be.

Would you recommend replacing the FSU, or disconnect, or some other diagnosis?

I will add the car goes to sleep, but the PRNDL light never goes out.

Any ideas appreciated.

[agentrnge]

The only way to do this is to check the draw with an ammeter wired in line with the battery. let the car go to sleep, then pull fuses one at a time and see what is using power. Anything else is guess work.

[geargrinder]

Yeah the Prindle light is not a good sign, unrelated to the FSU. IF the Prindle is not going out, then the car is NOT going to sleep by definition.

Something is keeping it awake. Not an expert in that diagnosis for sure.

The fuse trick is good for 'normal drains' except when it's this sleep thing, then its hard to tell because lots of stuff is staying awake so you'll get ammeter drops anytime you unplug an 'awake' module but maybe that module is fine it's just being told to stay awake by the GM...

Qsilver is a stud on this kind of stuff if he sees this thread maybe he has suggests.

[geargrinder]

Sonofamofobeyotch, the $$$ dealer FSU has just crapped out on me in prime AC weather after ~5 months of use.

As mentioned above - that was walk-in off-shelf from live local dealer, so no real chance of it being a fake. Date code was 2013. Eff those things.

Whole system still tests out fine - control voltages all proper, fan runs no problem when hotwired, etc. FSU was red hot when I took it out so clearly suffering internal fault.

Looking into the APSX thing but seems they may not be available anymore. If not, starting to think it's better to buy a whole bunch of the cheapest ones I can find and just keep them in the car as consumables.

[freethrowdunk]

Damn.

[knucklez313]

Sonofamofobeyotch, the $$$ dealer FSU has just crapped out on me in prime AC weather after ~5 months of use.

As mentioned above - that was walk-in off-shelf from live local dealer, so no real chance of it being a fake. Date code was 2013. Eff those things.

Whole system still tests out fine - control voltages all proper, fan runs no problem when hotwired, etc. FSU was red hot when I took it out so clearly suffering internal fault.

Looking into the APSX thing but seems they may not be available anymore. If not, starting to think it's better to buy a whole bunch of the cheapest ones I can find and just keep them in the car as consumables.


Decent thread here (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528566) on recommended FSU to buy or stay away from.

On another note, would you mind telling me how you jumpered off the connector to test and wire the switch in? TIA

[philly98540]

Missed or forgot in your e-mail (great story btw!) that this was a BMW dealer part. Nothing worse than getting trapped in hot rainstorm with no AC. wth is going on with parts these days. Is Valeo or Vemo or whoever now sending their crap parts to BMW and there is no difference in quality just like the RSA radiators?

Be cool if that other aftermarket fsu was still avail. That thing looked great.

Set up your chiroquackter appt now.

[Redshift]

BMW should warranty it for 12mo/12k miles. Get them to give you a new one at least.

I buy stuff like this from FCP now because they have a lifetime warranty. So my plan here is to buy a replacement for the 540, even though I don't need it, then install the new one right away. If it fails, I have the old one as a backup while I send the FCP one back to FCP for replacement.

[geargrinder]

funny you mention it. i just ordred one from FCP as it was the fastest way to get a cheap one here ASAP. in meantime will chase other options... agreed at this point I'm gonna try and carry one. I can swap them in about 3 minutes at this point...

[cnn]

geargrinder,

This is what I tell people, FSR is similar to light bulb. It may last 15 years (mine went out at 16y/140K time), it may last 3-4 months, even using dealer part.

The most cost-effective way is to buy a few used (but OEM) FSRs. I went to my local junk yard (bring a paint can opener, it is a useful to pry the FSR at junk yard) and pulled a few OEM FSRs.

Keep a spare one in the glove box.

Pricing:
- Junk Yard: $10/each.
- Ebay: $15-$20/each, again buy a few of these, and you will never deal with the dealer on this topic again.

[geargrinder]

not a bad call cnn. I paid enough for a dozen used beaters from the junkyard on the first one...

[BMWPlanetDude]

I got the Behr/Hella one for half the price of the dealer 3 years ago for a M3, still running strong

http://www.ouibi.com/pics/m3_fsu/4.jpg

[geargrinder]

So the Behr branded that i just got ASAP from FCP appears to be 110% identical to the dealer unit, excepting the stickers. If I stripped stickers and held a gun to your head you'd never be able to tell which was the Behr vs the 2 failed dealer ones. Increasingly convinced theres just 1-2 factories here and all the rest is boxing.

Also was surprised to be able to dug up the receipt for the february dealer part so i hit the dealer this afternoon and got a return on that (still identical to the others except sticker). Now holding that as an in-car spare...

- - - Updated - - -


I got the Behr/Hella one for half the price of the dealer 3 years ago for a M3, still running strong



BPD - that one looks little different - has the metal housing instead of plastic like most of the current ones for E39. The older E39 OEM ones had metal housings i know...

[Flounderasu]

Hm. Did your dealer ones have the Sitronic/Valeo sticker? Both of mine did (the one I pulled out and the one I bought at the Stealer for $160.) Old one appears to have a date code of '04 and the new one '13 - I did specifically request they give me one with the newest date code since they already made me pull my pants down at the door, bend over and walk in backwards.They knew they could charge me whatever they wanted knowing it was 115....

Your dealer is nicer than mine. It specifically says that there are no warranties on electrical parts...

Good to know for the future though...

[geargrinder]

Hm. Did your dealer ones have the Sitronic/Valeo sticker? Both of mine did (the one I pulled out and the one I bought at the Stealer for $160.) Old one appears to have a date code of '04 and the new one '13 - I did specifically request they give me one with the newest date code since they already made me pull my pants down at the door, bend over and walk in backwards.They knew they could charge me whatever they wanted knowing it was 115....

Your dealer is nicer than mine. It specifically says that there are no warranties on electrical parts...

Good to know for the future though...

Floundo... good questions...

1. Yep both dealer items all Sitronic/Valeo stickered - actually 3 units if we are including the dealer-one that came out of the car 5 months ago - same sticker on all 3... but peel those off and units are hyper-identical to the Behr's for 1/3 the price.
2. One that came out in Feb was '08 dated, one that I bought then that just crapped out was mid-'13 dated, and the one I just got on warranty is late '14 dated. The cheap Behr I got via FCP is '13 dated I think? .
3. Check your receipt. It probably says no returns or maybe refunds on electrical parts, but I bet not no warranty, although they are happy to discourage you coming back for free parts obviously.

BTW the no returns policy on electrical parts is pretty common even at retail auto part places, and is above all to keep guys from returning a removed used bad electrical part which can't visually be evaluated for new/old and claiming its the new one but they don't need it and getting cash back and running (or from burning up a new good part through stupidity and then trying to return it...). Secondarily IMO it's to discourage 'diagnostic borrowing' to shortcut the PITA of electrical troubleshooting aka just go buy a ton of electrical parts and swap them and see what fixes the problem then return the things you don't seem to need. You should still be able to get warranty replacements. The dealer did make me jump through "RO" (return order I guess) hoops - wanted the car VIN and mileage all entered into the computer etc. by a service writer before the parts guy would give me a new one... but that all went fine and I got a good one back...

[atgatt]

Just finished my first DIY on my new to me 2003 325xi.

2 new headlight lenses with new lens gaskets and new upper gaskets (prevent water coming in near the top of the light and the hood).
1 new FSR/FSU.

The FSR was a bit on a PITA but a doable project. Took me about 2 hours messing around. Problem is there is just no room to work... otherwise it's simple.

While working on the headlights I noticed the right light was aftermarket... then I noticed the right front BLINKER was aftermarket. Hmmmmm.... just checked car fax and sure enough this car was in a fender bender in 2008. No big deal but it was something I didn't know. They guy who sold me the car didn't know either... he's a friend of mine.

[BD40]

Bought the one linked above from Amazon a few days ago.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v120/TechnoDuck/2003%20BMW%20E39%20540i/7FA5FB59-47EC-4116-B68F-FD291EB7F977_zpswy6v7w4z.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/TechnoDuck/media/2003%20BMW%20E39%20540i/7FA5FB59-47EC-4116-B68F-FD291EB7F977_zpswy6v7w4z.jpg.html)



This is the BEHR/HELLA FSU that I received from Amazon yesterday (8/14/2015): Made in CHINA!!
545319

[tptrsn]

Could you post up a pic of the actual part please?

[nikatkimber]

I bought one of the $20 eBay parts last summer, as everything pointed to these being a gamble no matter what you buy. Mine's still running strong.

[BD40]

Could you post up a pic of the actual part please?

Here you go:
546322546323546321

The most noticeable visible difference between the OEM part and this BEHR/Hella piece is the heat sink. The OEM heat sink tines are rigid and the ends appear machined. They ring when tapped. The tines on the replacement are soft and look like mediocre castings. Otherwise, who knows what's inside? Since my problem ultimately was the IHKA panel, I left the OEM FSU in place and the BEHR/Hella will bounce around in the trunk

[BD40]

At tptrsn's suggestion, let me add this: The fit of the BEHR/Hella piece was beyond sloppy. I'm sure it would have rattled and bounced as I drove.

[Nagash]

Hi There!
New to the forum and Bimmer world (3 months now). I had intermittent issue with the FSU and finally dropped dead on Monday. Replaced it Monday night and used the car on Tuesday and Wednesday (less than 1.5hour drive total). Everything was running smoothly. This morning, the fan went crazy and finally stopped. Is there any other part that could blow the FSU out or I just got a bad unit?
Thanks!!

[Dave Sal]

Hi There!
New to the forum and Bimmer world (3 months now). I had intermittent issue with the FSU and finally dropped dead on Monday. Replaced it Monday night and used the car on Tuesday and Wednesday (less than 1.5hour drive total). Everything was running smoothly. This morning, the fan went crazy and finally stopped. Is there any other part that could blow the FSU out or I just got a bad unit?
Thanks!!

Did you get a genuine BMW part or an aftermarket? If aftermarket, they are not of the same quality as genuine BMW FSU.

[Mach540]

FSU..... FSU....... Hmmm???

Nope, none of my acronym lists have FSU.........

WTF does it stand fo???

[Nagash]

FSU..... FSU....... Hmmm???

Nope, none of my acronym lists have FSU.........

WTF does it stand fo???

Final Stage Unit/resistor

[gmak]

Final Stage Unit/resistor


ANyhoo. What brand did you buy?

[Nagash]

Written VEMO - Made in Germany.