When do I put in new coolant?

[funsizemy]

Story: Drove car on "Coolant level low" for a few months. One day car over heats. A few days later I put some mixed Prestone coolant in. Today my BMW coolant arrived in the mail. Do I have to wait until the other coolant run dry before putting the BMW coolant in? And do I just use tap water to mix the coolant right?

[bimas]

Story: Drove car on "Coolant level low" for a few months. One day car over heats. A few days later I put some mixed Prestone coolant in. Today my BMW coolant arrived in the mail. Do I have to wait until the other coolant run dry before putting the BMW coolant in? And do I just use tap water to mix the coolant right?
I'm sorry to be blunt, it is April 1st yet?

In case you're genuinely looking for help, here a re a few pointers:

Driving on low coolant for any amount if time is not good. Especially, since the warning only tells you if you are low, but doors not inform you how low.

Overheating has 2 levels, yellow and red. You can imagine which one is worst.

Prestone does not have the right composition for your engine. In order to properly replace coolant, you should drain and possibly flush what is in the system. There is no such thing as running the coolant dry (unless your goal is seizing the engine). You may also have a coolant leak, and should consider investigating with a flash light.

There is an automatic bleeding procedure that you can easily search for here.

Keep in mind, water pump and temperature sensors are not design to run air, but fluid. I your coolant gets low, air may be ingested onto your system rendering the cooling inefficient, damaging the engine and the cooling system.

I would recommend scanning for water pump errors. If you have more than 40, replace water pump and thermostat (parts around $550).
Hope it's not too late.

And only mix coolant with distiller water.

Good luck.

[funsizemy]

No, it's not a joke. Thank you for the pointers and they're very helpful! I've never had to take care of my vehicle before and this is my first go at it. Apparently they don't teach you useful life skills in school. What a surprise! Let me make sure I have this right:

1) Check for coolant leak
2) Drain old coolant/run bleeding procedure
3) Check for water pump errors. More than 40 means replace water pump & thermostat

[bimas]

No, it's not a joke. Thank you for the pointers and they're very helpful! I've never had to take care of my vehicle before and this is my first go at it. Apparently they don't teach you useful life skills in school. What a surprise! Let me make sure I have this right: 1) Check for coolant leak 2) Drain old coolant/run bleeding procedure 3) Check for water pump errors. More than 40 means replace water pump & thermostat
Ok, my apologies. The post just sounded pretty elementary, without a disclaimer that you have not really done maintenance before, so I'm truly sorry if I was rude.

There are about 2 things most non-enthusiasts really neglect until it's too late: 1. Lubrication 2. Cooling 3. Brake fluid

That means: oil changes, cooling flush, and brake fluid change.

Lack of any of the above maintenance can seriously shorten your engine life, and:or lead to a catastrophic failure.

You have got all the points right. Even if you're not a skilled mechanic, and can get around in computers, you can do a lot of car diagnostic on a personal computer with an OBD-USB cable. Please search for BMW INPA, and find out how to obtain a copy, where to get a cable, and how to use it. There are many write ups. All cables work until roughly 2008 ( depending on model), after that you need one with D-can bus. This will make your life much easier.

As far as the work goes, are you planning to do it yourself, or having a shop do it?

I would like to warn you that although the flush and refill/bleed procedure is pretty straight forward, the water pump and thermostat isn't the easiest job on this engine due to a limited access to the parts. You will need a comprehensive tool set. Even if you find the right socket and wrench sizes, it may be difficult to reach some of the fittings, pull hoses, etc. you will have to get a few other things outbid the way as well (this job is done from the bottom), and working on jacks is just plain PITA even if you're experienced.

Definitely do a lot of searches here for any particular job, as most have been discussed in great detail.

If you're really interested in car work, I would also recommend reading up on basic vehicle maintenance online. I'm just an enthusiast, not a real mechanic, but I can do a lot of engine work mostly thanks to the great resources here, and of course, trial and error. Anything you do is easier re second time around.

Before and after you work on your car, sort and count your tools. Forgetting a socket or a screwdriver near moving engine parts is no fun for you, or the car! Ask how I know.

Keep us posted. I admire your dedication to address the issues yourself.

Keep in mind one more thing. If your car is giving you a message, take it seriously. If there is a serious problem, usually the car can avoid damage by putting the car into a reduced power (limp) mode. This will, however, not happen, if the car is asking you for more oil or coolant! So watch out.

[modular93fox]

If this is your first go at it.. Stop and pay a professional to perform the repairs.. Or... Or.. Try it yourself and when your daily driver is broken .. And your wait for a reply on the forum

[funsizemy]

Bimas, Thanks so much for all the info! I did run the bleeding procedure and I'm under the impression I did it right. I watched a videos on the thermostat and water pump stuff and have come to the conclusion that I won't be doing that myself. If I knew a mechanic or someone that knows their way around the car then I would definitely pay for some lessons, but unfortunately I don't as well as taking apart anything in a car scares the hell out of me and interests me all at the same time. Too bad if I don't do it right it can get quite costly so I won't be attempting without assistance. Again thanks so much for all the info.

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Modular93fox, you're right no arguments there. However, have it crossed your mind that perhaps I need to put coolant in my car in order to drive it to a repair shop? Between the inconvenience of having it towed there and waiting on a forum reply I would say that it's not much of a difference.

[bimas]

Bimas, Thanks so much for all the info! I did run the bleeding procedure and I'm under the impression I did it right. I watched a videos on the thermostat and water pump stuff and have come to the conclusion that I won't be doing that myself. If I knew a mechanic or someone that knows their way around the car then I would definitely pay for some lessons, but unfortunately I don't as well as taking apart anything in a car scares the hell out of me and interests me all at the same time. Too bad if I don't do it right it can get quite costly so I won't be attempting without assistance. Again thanks so much for all the info.
Excellent. I'm glad you're making the right decisions for the moment. The coolant flush wasn't that bad, was it? Well, oil change is easier, brake bleed maybe tiny bit harder. After you master these three, you can move on to more.

I'd suggest getting a scan for error codes, at least on the engine. Find out if you have any issue to be addressed soon, including the water pump. The pump/thermostat job isn't that bad, but again, I wouldn't pick it as my first assignment. It will be expensive in a shop. But maybe, you will not need it yet! Watch out for overheating warnings.

To can also search for 'hidden menu'. There is a simple way of getting your engine temperature displayed on your information display on your instrument cluster (aside from other useful and some mysterious data). This way, you can monitor the coolant temperature behavior, since there is no temp gauge otherwise.

Keep is posted.

[funsizemy]

Excellent. I'm glad you're making the right decisions for the moment. The coolant flush wasn't that bad, was it? Well, oil change is easier, brake bleed maybe tiny bit harder. After you master these three, you can move on to more.

I'd suggest getting a scan for error codes, at least on the engine. Find out if you have any issue to be addressed soon, including the water pump. The pump/thermostat job isn't that bad, but again, I wouldn't pick it as my first assignment. It will be expensive in a shop. But maybe, you will not need it yet! Watch out for overheating warnings.

To can also search for 'hidden menu'. There is a simple way of getting your engine temperature displayed on your information display on your instrument cluster (aside from other useful and some mysterious data). This way, you can monitor the coolant temperature behavior, since there is no temp gauge otherwise.

Keep is posted.

I'm trying really hard to not ask for you to hold my hand or spoon feed me, but... I can't seem to find where to download a bmw inpa. I've got matches from ebay & amazon & lots of forums, but I'm like going at it blind. I'm not sure if I'm suppose to just start randomly downloading files or what. I'm really interested in getting the diagnostic software going. Mostly out of curiosity, but also I'm really looking forward to doing better maintenance work. As for the thermostat job, seems pretty tough so hopefully it won't be needed for another year at least.

[bimas]

That's ok. I'm kind of new at computer diagnostics as well. There is a whole coding section on this forum. Just look at the root directory.

In terms of INPA, I recommend getting a cable/software bundle. Usually, the really cheap ones don't work, so beware. Mine is K-can (pre-2008) and it's from BMcables.com. They apparently have a newer D-can (2008+) version available that is back compatible.

The problem is, that I can reliably only run INPA. Progman, DIS, and even NCS Expert tool either don't work at all or are unreliable. So, INPA is fine for getting codes, diagnosing, and erasing codes. But you can't code new modules, or the car's behavior, etc. Members here recommended getting Rheingold instead of all the other coding software that usually comes with INPA.

So, search what the latest and best is on the coding section. I don't think that I have it. You definitely need a decent OBDII to USB cable, and you can usually buy that with a repackaged INPA.

The thermostat and waterpump are best done at the same time. The t-stat has to come out to change the pump, so it only makes sense to change it as well. If you get stuck in the middle of the job, you can't drive the car to a shop, since you will have no coolant. Maybe a more car-savvy buddy can help?

I hope others chime in.

[LVP]

For the software get it here. I have this software and cable. He sells some cheaper versions, but you'll need this for the 2008. This covers up to 2012.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/BMW-MINI-Rolls-USB-K-D-CAN-OBD-INPA-DIS-SSS-scanner-diagnostic-tester-like-GT1-/281326903050?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item418063df0a

[funsizemy]

That's ok. I'm kind of new at computer diagnostics as well. There is a whole coding section on this forum. Just look at the root directory.

In terms of INPA, I recommend getting a cable/software bundle. Usually, the really cheap ones don't work, so beware. Mine is K-can (pre-2008) and it's from BMcables.com. They apparently have a newer D-can (2008+) version available that is back compatible.

The problem is, that I can reliably only run INPA. Progman, DIS, and even NCS Expert tool either don't work at all or are unreliable. So, INPA is fine for getting codes, diagnosing, and erasing codes. But you can't code new modules, or the car's behavior, etc. Members here recommended getting Rheingold instead of all the other coding software that usually comes with INPA.

So, search what the latest and best is on the coding section. I don't think that I have it. You definitely need a decent OBDII to USB cable, and you can usually buy that with a repackaged INPA.

The thermostat and waterpump are best done at the same time. The t-stat has to come out to change the pump, so it only makes sense to change it as well. If you get stuck in the middle of the job, you can't drive the car to a shop, since you will have no coolant. Maybe a more car-savvy buddy can help?

I hope others chime in.

. I put coolant in on Thursday, but now I'm low on it again. Unfortunately, I'm not knowledgable in the mechanical area so I just dropped my car off at Pepboys, it's the only place open on a Saturday.

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For the software get it here. I have this software and cable. He sells some cheaper versions, but you'll need this for the 2008. This covers up to 2012.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/BMW-MINI-Rolls-USB-K-D-CAN-OBD-INPA-DIS-SSS-scanner-diagnostic-tester-like-GT1-/281326903050?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item418063df0a


Thanks!!!

[bimas]

Did you check level after the automatic bleeding procedure?

I would drop the splash guard (possible with a stubby Phillips screwdriver) and put clean card board I seventh to see where you're leaking.

Also, use flashlight to find the leak!

Although, the shop, although generic, should get an answer. Don't let them too off with their coolant! It's unlikely that they carry the right kind, and may not know better.

Also, they should check oil for signs of coolant, and coolant for sings of oil (head gasket issue - don't wanna scare you, but it's possible, if you drove with low coolant and possibly overheated).

You have to sample oil from the oil drain, as there is no dipstick.

[eman2007]

I'm trying really hard to not ask for you to hold my hand or spoon feed me, but... I can't seem to find where to download a bmw inpa. I've got matches from ebay & amazon & lots of forums, but I'm like going at it blind. I'm not sure if I'm suppose to just start randomly downloading files or what. I'm really interested in getting the diagnostic software going. Mostly out of curiosity, but also I'm really looking forward to doing better maintenance work. As for the thermostat job, seems pretty tough so hopefully it won't be needed for another year at least.

Hey. Funs
I did the w/p & t stat on my 07 530i about 1 hr !!!! Not. That bad of a job and I am kinda thick and got under the car one Saturday and got her done ... It's a little harder when u have sports package because of all the extra hoses

[funsizemy]

Did you check level after the automatic bleeding procedure?

I would drop the splash guard (possible with a stubby Phillips screwdriver) and put clean card board I seventh to see where you're leaking.

Also, use flashlight to find the leak!

Although, the shop, although generic, should get an answer. Don't let them too off with their coolant! It's unlikely that they carry the right kind, and may not know better.

Also, they should check oil for signs of coolant, and coolant for sings of oil (head gasket issue - don't wanna scare you, but it's possible, if you drove with low coolant and possibly overheated).

You have to sample oil from the oil drain, as there is no dipstick.

Brought it to another place since Pepboys couldn't figure it out. Either I got hustled or Pepboys is really clueless. Apparently it was some plastic part. The coolant connector or whatever. Any clue? Because if this happens again I want to avoid spending another $75 if it's not difficult.

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Hey. Funs
I did the w/p & t stat on my 07 530i about 1 hr !!!! Not. That bad of a job and I am kinda thick and got under the car one Saturday and got her done ... It's a little harder when u have sports package because of all the extra hoses

That definitely doesn't sound bad at all! But I'll start by learning what goes where in the car first. I'm a complete newbie to these things.

[bimas]

Seems like the mechanics are not qualified, or motivated. However, they should have a better piece of info than 'a piece of plastic'.

Based on their info, it's probably one of the plastic fittings on a cooling house. You have to locate it, and replace the entire hose (whichever it is). He fittings are non-serviceable.

Use the flashlight method! Look for white splatter in the engine bay and a wet spot. The dry white stuff is coolant spray. The wet is the leak.

[funsizemy]

Seems like the mechanics are not qualified, or motivated. However, they should have a better piece of info than 'a piece of plastic'.

Based on their info, it's probably one of the plastic fittings on a cooling house. You have to locate it, and replace the entire hose (whichever it is). He fittings are non-serviceable.

Use the flashlight method! Look for white splatter in the engine bay and a wet spot. The dry white stuff is coolant spray. The wet is the leak.

The guy did tell me what it was, but due to his accent I wasn't able to catch it after asking several times. I felt bad so I just stopped asking. Paid him to fix it. And he also got me a print out of a bunch of error codes. I'm looking at it like it's in German.

[bimas]

Post the report and the codes.

[funsizemy]

Post the report and the codes.

Few things to note: I got a radiator installed in winter 2013 after freezing temps and a couple of days of not starting. A radio installed because when I bought the car the radio didn't work, but it was able to produce sounds (for warnings and such). Trunk can't be opened with the remote button or the button inside the car it has to be opened manually with a key. In order to close the trunk I have to press the button on the inside of the car first and then close it within seconds of that.

Engine
2E83 Electric Water Pump, Reduced Power Operation

Antilock Brakes
5F56 Car Access System Interface
6E83 Tire Pressure Control Interface
5D95 Control Unit Valve Relay
5E3D Wheel Speed Sensor Rear Left Plausibility
5E4B Wheel Speed Sensor Rear Right Plausibility
D35C Powertrain CAN Message
5EBA Steering Angle Sensor Plausibility
6F50 No Message (Airbag, 0x2FA) Receiver Dynamic Stability Control (DSC) Transmitter ACSM
D378 F-CAN Message

Body Gateway Module
93A8 Interal Fault
93AD Micro-Power Module, No Power Supply
93AB Relay Sticking, MPM Relay On

Basic Body Module
A418 Rear Left Power Window Hall Sensor
A419 Rear Left Power Window Hall Sensor
A448 Rear Left Power Window Motor Hall Sensor
A449 Rear Left Power Window Motor Hall Sensor
A43D Rear Lid Unlocking Button
A44A Rear Driver's Side Power Window Drive Voltage
A41A Rear Passenger Side Power Window Drive Voltage

[bimas]

Well, a lot of the codes may be just ghost does or rare occurrences. I would delete them and see what comes back.

I think you should definitely get INPA for that working.

You should check how many occurrences you have on the pump, but with the code, it's likely you need one + t-stat. The related hoses are usually good.

You clearly have the trunk button error - hence no workie.

Is everything else ok? Brakes feel ok? Windows work?

[funsizemy]

Well, a lot of the codes may be just ghost does or rare occurrences. I would delete them and see what comes back.

I think you should definitely get INPA for that working.

You should check how many occurrences you have on the pump, but with the code, it's likely you need one + t-stat. The related hoses are usually good.

You clearly have the trunk button error - hence no workie.

Is everything else ok? Brakes feel ok? Windows work?

Brakes and windows are fine. Every now and again I would get the misfire light. It blinks and then that's it. And my right parking lamp isn't working so I'm not sure what needs to be done about that. Do you know what I should do about the trunk situation?