540i/6 Owners: What have you replaced your clutch with and thoughts about oem clutch?

[extra]

Hi guys, as you may have read in an old thread of mine, my clutch is nearing the end of its lifespan. Do you think a fresh oem clutch will sufficiently handle stock power and shift crisply or will it still be sloppy and slip a little during hard shifts? For those of you who have replaced your clutches when you've had your cars, have you made any sort of upgrades as far as a different clutch than stock? If so, what did you do, where did you get it from, and did you think it was worth it? I was told the e39 m5 clutch would work and yields improvements, but I just read somewhere else that it wouldn't. If I were to buy a basic m5 kit from, say, turner motorsport, that includes just the disc and throw out bearing and such, do I need to make any modifications (I would not replace the flywheel)? Thanks in advance.

[Only1Balto]

If you're anywhere near stock hp/tq, the 540/M5 clutch will be fine.

[Flounderasu]

Replace the flywheel. M5 FW won't work, but the clutch will bolt right up.

I just did this about 10k mi ago - new Luk FW and new Luk Clutch. Shifts fine and although I don't hammer through the gears often, no slipping. If I had to do it again, I would've gone with the M5 clutch.

Also replaced the leaking rear main seal and the coolant plate directly above it, along with the guibo and trans mounts.

Amazon was the cheapest source for clutch and FW - I just looked and the prices went up slightly. I picked up my FW for $325ish and the Clutch for $215ish. Still seems to be cheaper than anyone else.

If you think it's slipping between shifts - did you remove your CDV yet?

[extra]

did you remove your CDV yet?

No, but after investigation into the problem before, I've been able to determine that it's the clutch not the cdv, although the cdv is probably a contributing factor.

- - - Updated - - -


Replace the flywheel. M5 FW won't work, but the clutch will bolt right up.

So your saying that if I keep the flywheel that's there and just use the m5 disc, I'll be fine?

Is this the right part number for the luk m5 replacement clutch?

LUK 03-042
http://www.amazon.com/LuK-03-042-Clutch-Set/dp/B000CICYRC/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1416628245&sr=1-1&keywords=LUK+03-042

[Flounderasu]

No, but after investigation into the problem before, I've been able to determine that it's the clutch not the cdv, although the cdv is probably a contributing factor.

- - - Updated - - -

So your saying that if I keep the flywheel that's there and just use the m5 disc, I'll be fine?

Is this the right part number for the luk m5 replacement clutch?

LUK 03-042

http://www.amazon.com/LuK-03-042-Clutch-Set/dp/B000CICYRC/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1416628245&sr=1-1&keywords=LUK+03-042

No, I'm saying replace the FW, don't re-use the one that in there, AND the M5 FW won't work for the 540i - so you have to buy a 540i FW. Some people try to cheap out and just resurface the DMFW but there are internal springs that wear and fail. Luk DMF020 is the FW for the 540i.

[16valex]

Look into Gripforce SMF and clutch kit for a very decent price.

I just installed Gripforce SMF FX Racing Stage 3 in my 530 S/C, and let me tell you the best bang for the buck I ever spent on clutch kit. No rattle, instant grip, and responsive.

[chiefwej]

I replaced my clutch about 5 years ago with LUK OEM. It had just began to slip. The flywheel looked fine so we didn't touch it. The previous owner had ruined the clutch by driving it hard with the CDV still in place. I have had no problems since.

The nice thing was total cost parts and labor at my local indie shop was $865.

[pizzaman09]

I replaced the clutch in my M5 a few month ago with an OEM LUK clutch and there is no slipping issues at all, even under very hard shifts. My original clutch would slip very easy between 2nd and 3rd shifts if any vaguely aggressive amount of power was put through it. I did not replace the flywheel as it looked pretty good.

So, I vote that a new stock M5 clutch on the original not too beaten flywheel works great. I don't see any real need to upgrade the clutch if you are running stock power levels. I like the clutch being the weak part of the drive train, it is much easier to replace and much less expensive then the impossible to repair Getrag 420G transmission is. I would rather wear out my clutch then abuse internal trans components.

[JimLev]

Back in '08 I replaced my clutch with a stock 540 clutch and PP, still using the original flywheel.
Even with the additional 60% power it's not slipping, I just lift off the gas a bit during shifts when I'm flogging it.
When I need to replace it next time it wil be the M5 disc and PP.

[extra]

No, I'm saying replace the FW, don't re-use the one that in there, AND the M5 FW won't work for the 540i - so you have to buy a 540i FW. Some people try to cheap out and just resurface the DMFW but there are internal springs that wear and fail. Luk DMF020 is the FW for the 540i.

got it.

[Flounderasu]

I know a few have re-used and I respect Jim's knowledge and advice. I recall another member that re-used and had a failure. <shrug>

I ordered one just in case to have on hand so I wouldn't get stuck with a torched FW and having to pay asinine prices. When I pulled mine out, although it had some minor heat spots and could've been reused, I chose to replace it so I wouldn't have to do this twice.... Beside, it was coming out anyway so I could replace my RMS and that's when I discovered the leaky coolant plate right above it.

To each his own - I know the FW is pricey. I know Sachs says you can change the clutch once and possibly re-use the FW, but if the clutch has been replaced once already you 100% change the FW.

http://www.zf.com/brands/content/en/sachs/products_sx/pc_sx/dmf/dmf.html?et_cid=2&et_lid=3&et_sub=SACHS+dual-mass+flywheel

[extra]

Are they worth re-machining? A replacement flywheel is pricey, any other alternatives as far as price or am I just going have to roll with the oem replacement? I don't want to skimp, but it would be great to save some money.

[Astrocyte]

When you do change the clutch, make sure whoever installs it puts a little grease on the face of throw out bearing and a little on the pressure plate fingers or it might start to creak later when the clutch pedal is pressed.I bought my 540/6 with a fairly new clutch but it creaked so bad I removed it to see why.The throw out bearing face had quite a wear pattern from no grease so I changed it all.I got a stock luk clutch and dual mass FW from amazon and greased everything,works great no creak.I also found a bit of a wear pattern in the fork lever where the plastic pivot has been rubbing and when a new pivot was put in I could feel a little clunk in the pedal when pressed ,from the fork lever shifting a bit.I changed the fork lever and is perfect now.Check the rubber clutch hose to the slave too,it's actually a really long metal line on the other end and is really hard to change with the gearbox in.hope this helps.

[Only1Balto]

Are they worth re-machining? A replacement flywheel is pricey, any other alternatives as far as price or am I just going have to roll with the oem replacement? I don't want to skimp, but it would be great to save some money.


I would consider the DMF a consumable part, especially with the way it functions in its role.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aRL_1KW79NA

[andy81563]

I would go back with OEM clutch and flywheel setup. Sure, it involves a pretty heavy, power-robbing flywheel, but it makes for a really smooth shift. I have gone through three clutches in the past 4-5 years and learned the hard way.

After getting 150,000+ miles on the original clutch, I decided to go with an expensive lightweight flywheel and clutch setup. This did not work well. It was decidedly more difficult to shift and I am not not sure if it was my ineptitude or the quality of the clutch/flywheel but it failed after less than a year. I decided to go back with original heavy flywheel and performance clutch. This proved to be a bad combination also as this clutch didn't last 2 years. The third time is a charm as I went back with the OEM clutch and flywheel and everything works great. Smooth takeoffs, good power to the wheels, no slipping.

I know many people have been happy with the LWFW setup but I was not.

[Danelson155]

I just tore aprt two of my 540i/6s and was wondering about how to tell if the Dual MAss Flywheel is bad. Should there be rotation between the surface and the mounting plate? Mine turns about 15 degrees and feels like it's spring controlled. My engine was worn and ticking and I rebuilt a lower mile motor and was changing over the clutch and flywheel. The clutch had been replaced and was working perfectly even under a load. Thanks,

[Cyrix2k]

My opinion is to *always* replace the DMF. They are wear items and the ones I have removed needed replacement. The stock clutch is good except for (extremely) aggressive driving - in that case, I suggest looking at aftermarket kits that include a lightweight flywheel.

[geargrinder]

My LWFW setup shifts completely smoothly especially when i ran the M5 clutch, although the Southbend i have now was a little grabby until it broke in.

For 90% of people the M5 clutch w DMFW is 100% fine.

[philly98540]

I just tore aprt two of my 540i/6s and was wondering about how to tell if the Dual MAss Flywheel is bad. Should there be rotation between the surface and the mounting plate? Mine turns about 15 degrees and feels like it's spring controlled. My engine was worn and ticking and I rebuilt a lower mile motor and was changing over the clutch and flywheel. The clutch had been replaced and was working perfectly even under a load. Thanks,

I replace my clutch a little while back with about 135K or so on the car. I used new LuK 540 FW and a LuK M5 clutch PP/disc kit. Works excellent so far.

The dual mass FW should rotate in both directions with resistance from the springs, with minimal or no free play. Sounds like your springs may still be good, but hard to tell from here. The brand new FW had similar rotation feel as my original one. Maybe just a tad tighter, but not significantly so. When really bad, the springs fail and there is substantial slop in there.

The friction surface can also wear and get glazed/warped. My old one showed some hot spots, but likely could have been re-used.

Are you keeping the car? How many miles on the clutch? Has it been slipping for a long time? These play into your decision to replace the FW. The FW could fail in the future. Doing this job is not horrible, but you don't want to drop the tranny twice for this. Don't skimp if you keep the car. Get the new FW. My 0.02.

[Cyrix2k]

Basically, if you can easily rotate the two sections of the flywheel, it probably needs to be replaced. The wear becomes really obvious when you compare a new / lightly used flywheel to an older one. If you don't have that luxury, just youtube it. We pulled one from my friend's 330i that "felt" ok when it was installed and was actually pretty worn. The one in my 540i makes noise and I'm sure it's totally shot, but I'm not pulling it until needed.

[Only1Balto]

Just checked the new DMF in my closet. Rotates initially maybe .5 cm and then stops completely and won't move any further by hand once it hits the springs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MfNjARZc5Wo

[qcdstick]

I went with a JB Racing Lightweight Flywheel and SBC non-self adjusting clutch. I won't say it is for everyone, but I really like the setup. Revs fast, grips hard, but does have increased pedal pressure, some chatter at low rpms, and is more touchy getting moving.

[collardgreens]

Qcdstick, did you go with a rigid disc or a sprung hub?

[geargrinder]

I have the JBR LWFW, ran it first w/ the OEM M5 unsprung clutch, ran fine but a bit more chatter, then switched to a sprung Southbend Stage 2 Endurance clutch which is a little quieter but not entirely.
The SB pedal pressure is very light just like factory but the S/C seems to overpower it sometimes on a hot shift. It would be 100% fine w/ OEM setup but I prob need to swap it for the Stage 3 with the blower.

[qcdstick]

Qcdstick, did you go with a rigid disc or a sprung hub?

Sprung hub since I went to a solid flywheel. It's the SBC stage 3 kit (I was told by SBC 1 and 2 still use self the adjusting pressure plates).

One thing I should mention is I got it done pretty late in the year, and I haven't driven it in traffic on a really hot day yet, when I expect the chatter would be the worst. One of the benefits of living in the midwest, I almost never deal with traffic :-)