View Full Version : Failure of all Failures
Bavarian540i
11-11-2014, 10:51 AM
I brought a 1998 540i several months ago from a friend.. At initial glance the car is gorgeous runs an runs well so I purchased it.. I have only changed the oil, brakes rotors, & front shocks. Knowing the car may need some more TLC I haven't been really driving the car hard.. Long behold after the car sat for two days.. I started it up to make a quick run, an a loud noise was coming from the engine. I hit the gas a bit and it seemed to quite down. Drove the car about 3 miles an back.. Car seemed to get a little louder. I got home and parked, shut the car down n started her back up.. Smh.. The next day took her to my mechanic only to be told it's the timing guide rails that failed.. What do I do? I need help!!!!
philly98540
11-11-2014, 11:12 AM
If you want to keep the car, do the repair. Its a lot of work, but definitely a competent DIY'er can do it over a few days. You can shop for an indy to do it, but plan on $2.5 to $3.5K for the repair. It about $750 for the needed parts, but plan on spending closer to $1200 to $1500 on parts if you do the "other stuff while your in there" stuff. Search for some DIY's. Lots of them out there. I did the job on my 98 with none of the cam locking tools (non Vanos). Just marked everything very good as I went.
Heheh. P0011 and probably P0021 incoming very soon ....
Bavarian540i
11-11-2014, 11:59 AM
If you want to keep the car, do the repair. Its a lot of work, but definitely a competent DIY'er can do it over a few days. You can shop for an indy to do it, but plan on $2.5 to $3.5K for the repair. It about $750 for the needed parts, but plan on spending closer to $1200 to $1500 on parts if you do the "other stuff while your in there" stuff. Search for some DIY's. Lots of them out there. I did the job on my 98 with none of the cam locking tools (non Vanos). Just marked everything very good as I went.
Thanks for the response Philly!
I differently plan on keeping the car. She is a thing of beauty.. I was looking at a few other threads trying to gather some more information. I'm not to mechanically incline but I can do a few things. The information I gathered an wanted to know if the parts need here were accurate a need to fix my problem.. Or should I be doing more ?!?
Here's what I got!
Timing Chain and Chain Covers Related Parts:
1 x 11141436978 Lower T/C Gasket Set $23.64
1 x 11311745406 Chain Rail $30.58
1 x 11311741236 Timing Chain Rail $90.64
1 x 11311741777 Chain Guide Rail $109.13
4 x 11311435028 Camshaft Chain Guides 'sliding pieces' $4.73
1 x 11141275466 Front Crank Seal $6.24
1 x 11131436324 Lower Oil Pan Gasket
1 x 07119963355 Chain Tensioner Washer Ring $.15
1 x 11120034104 Valve Cover Gasket 1-4 $24.01
1 x 11120034105 Valve Cover Gasket 5-8 $24.01
1 x 12311435277 Alternator Gasket 'O-Ring' $6.68
1 x 11151705272 Oil Separator + O-Ring and Bushing $30.73
1 x 11131742109 Oil Pan Gasket $29.84
Intake Manifold Parts:
1 x 11611729727 Throttle Flange Gasket $4.64
4 x 11611433328 Intake Manifold Gaskets $17.79
1 x 11611745195 Vent Pipe Rubber O-Ring $.99
1 x 11611729728 Intake Cover Gasket 'rear' $4.26
1 x 11151702291 Intake Manifold Cover profile gasket $3.26
1 x 11617501563 Intake Manifold Cover $70.96
Cooling Related Parts:
1 x 11141742042 Valley Pan $72.32
1 x 11141736106 Plastic Cover $15.53
2 x 11531710048 Cooling Pipe O-Ring 'larger' $1.25
2 x 11531710055 Cooling Pipe O-Ring 'smaller' $.77
2 Gal of BMW Antifreeze 82141467704 $38.50
Crank Case Ventilation Parts:
1 x 11151705301 Vent Pipe $30.58
1 x 11151705272 Oil Separator $30.73
Emission Control Parts:
2 x 07119901511 Secondary Air Line O-Rings
Throttle Body Parts:
1 x 13547510433 Throttle Body Gasket $10.56
Battery Cable Parts (only because it broke during disassembly):
1 x 12521702102 Base B+
Note: the Valve Covers were sand blasted by 'Miller Sand Blasting and Painting' for $30.00 and spray painted (with 500F heat resistant paint) for $12.72.
Parts (mentioned above): aprox. $801.76
Heat Resistent Primer and Paint for the Valve Covers: $12.72
Sand Blasting by 'Miller Sand Blasting and Painting': $30.00
2 Gal of Purple Power Cleaner (for the parts): $13.00
8 Qt of BMW Full Syntetic Oil (07-51-0-017-866): $51.84
---------------
Aprox. Total (for Timing Chaing Guides/Rails job): $909.32
hyjaxe
11-11-2014, 12:26 PM
I know your pain, it was tough for me as a beginner and in the end had to have the dealer retime it for me.
Beisansystems.com has a DIY for the timing rails, and you'll need to rent the timing tools and crank pulley holder tool, bimmertoolrental.com
You can do most of the job by yourself if you have the right tools and equipment. The only part during the process where you will need some guidance is when you have to crack/loosen up the big and main crank pulley bolt, and secondly when using the timing tools to set the timing appropriately. Many of us here on the forum have done it themselves. If you get stuck anywhere you can ask us and someone will help you.
philly98540
11-11-2014, 01:11 PM
Bavarian- You list looks pretty good, but I don't have time to review it fully. I think EAC has a good list. I also have a parts list on my DIY thread for this here:
http://forum.roadfly.com/threads/13173458-New-Engine-Noise-Timing-Chain-Guides-Opinions-Thoughts-wanted!!
You need to sign up to roadfly to view it though (very quick). I've added some more parts that what is shown there, but its pretty good. Also, you can do it without the cam locking tools since you car is pre-Vanos if you follow my steps. The cam lock tools would be good to have if you are not sure though. I also just used the flywheel locking pin and not the crank holder tool. Its a gamble this way, but it worked for me. Good luck! This job will strengthen or destroy your bond with that car! LOL.
Aryana
11-12-2014, 03:22 AM
Ouch! What a PITA...
E39540i62000
11-12-2014, 04:06 PM
I recently did mine. If you do it yourself you will definitely need the crank holder tool. 3/4 inch drive 27mm socket and a long 3/4 inch breaker bar with an extension tube to gain some extra torque. If you do not plan on replacing the chain it is totally possible to do without the timing tools. (I did) Just make sure you do not allow the chain to slip off the sprockets. I used wire to keep the chain in place. Also that is assuming the chain has not already jumped a tooth when the guides failed. You can check this with drill bits through the cam sensor location holes with the crank locked at TDC. You have to hold the bank 1 cam fully retarded when you check this because it will spring forward with the pressure exerted by the valve springs. Best of luck!
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