Check Engine Light and multiple other problems NEED HELP ASAP

[Jckol]

As some of you may remember, I have a P1475 code. I've more or less dealt with it since I couldn't find a fix but now I need to get inspection and the check engine light must go away. I've done some researching on my own and scanned the code with INPA. INPA said something along the lines of an issue with the emission bank running lean. (I can get you the exact printout if that's too vague) That got me thinking that the PCV might be bad. The reason I think this is because I do have some sort of suction on the dipstick hole, and there is oil building up around it. According to multiple sources, that's a sign of a PCV issue. Is there any way to verify or any other symptoms that could be showing up because of it? Does a faulty PCV throw a check engine code, and if so, would it throw this one and the message that INPA is giving me? I don't want to start throwing money into the car endlessly to find out that the problem is something else completely, so I really need your opinions on this.

ALSO, I know my LCM is bad and that is going to get replaced, but I have another lighting issue that's I don't think is related to the LCM. Even when the LCM works, the rear left blink doesn't work unless the brake light or the car's lights are on. Crazy, right?

And I also have a question about an airbag light that's illuminated on the dash, can I pass NYS inspection with it on or will that also have to be dealt with, because with that, I am all out of ideas, and even what INPA tells me makes no sense.

Any input would be greatly appreciated. I really need to get this stuff fixed and I'm running out of time before my registration expires.

[Jckol]

Come on guys, no one can help me out here?

[Mayorchuck]

Have you already checked the wiring described here:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1507483-P1475-leak-diagnostic-pump

[Jckol]

Yeah I did once, but I can check again. I couldn't find any damaged wire, but I could drop the fender liner more and look further up. Any ideas on the blinker issue?

[1fatcat]

Code P1475 is described as "Leakage Diagnostic Pump Reed Switch Did Not Close" Also referred to as "Evap System Leak Detection Pump (LDP).

So basically, the code is referring to your EVAP system. I'm guessing that the EVAP system has a leak somewhere. Common areas to check would be: gas cap, evap vent valve, evap purge valve and the lines. Also, there is reference to a LDP (leak detection pump) so that would be something to check too.

Now I'm not too familiar with BMW's EVAP systems, so I can't be of much help there.

[Jckol]

Ok, I'm looking at the Leak Diagnostic Pump now and none of the wires there have any signs of damage. I'm guessing that that gets ruled out. Could a PCV/OSV issue also cause this code?

Could it be the charcoal canister by any chance? I read on a e46 forum that that could be a possible cause...

[1fatcat]

Could a PCV/OSV issue also cause this code?
I kind of doubt it, but I don't know for sure. In general terms, an EVAP system captures gasoline vapors from the gas tank and then re-introduces those fumes into the engine when the car is running.

Back in the old days, gas caps were vented to the atmosphere and the fuel vapors were just vented to the outside air, but nowadays EPA rules state that fuel vapors cannot be vented to atmosphere, hence the introduction of the EVAP system.

The PCV system (positive crankcase ventilation) is a system that removes blow-by gasses from the crankcase of the engine. All engines have blow-by. Blow-by is a term used to describe the gasses/pressure that seeps past the piston rings and gets into the bottom of the engine (crankcase). If these gasses are not vented or removed from the crankcase, then seals & gaskets will start blowing out.

EVAP and PCV systems are not really tied together in any way...that I know of...but then again, BMW does some things different.

[Jckol]

Ok I was testing things with INPA and I cleared the error memory for the code. INPA gave me a readout with the code 185 LDP Module. Hopefully that can narrow down this problem a lot more.

[1fatcat]

Code 185 is not a valid code according to my resources. Trouble codes generally start with a "P" followed by 4 numbers. But even P0185 is not a valid code for your car. You might need to try a different scan tool.

[Jckol]

INPA, as far as I know, only gives 3 digit codes and they are separate from what normal code readers give. A normal scan tool gives me the P1475 code while INPA gives me 185 LDP Module. My guess is that INPA gives a more specific readout than a normal scantool would.

[1fatcat]

Did you see this post?
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2119355-Finally-got-rid-of-our-good-friend-CEL-)

[Jckol]

Yeah, I did. I was doing the exact same thing today and I couldn't find any bad wires. Everything seemed to be in check over there. I read up on another thread that the gas cap's gasket, as you also wrote earlier, could be worn down and needs to be replaced. I'm going to look at that tomorrow and cross my fingers that that can solve the issue. I wish BMW was a little more specific with some of these SEL codes, they can really turn into serious money pits if you're not careful, haha.

[Flying740iL]

For the purposes of passing the inspection, it might be worth disconnecting the battery, then touch the positive wire to the negative wire (don't short the battery, just touch the wires). I held the brake pedal for 30 seconds as well - the purpose is to discharge the capacitors in the system and this does reset at least some codes - reset my fuel trim code (and the fuel trim). When I had the car down for 2 weeks with the battery disconnected that also reset the airbag light. The light hasn't come back (months later), so I presume whatever tripped it is no longer valid. If you do that and it works, make sure to do it right before you go to the inspection station and maybe they won't catch it.

Unfortunately, I have found that check engine codes are rarely straightforward. Sure, you sometimes luck out and it's just an O2 sensor, but keep in mind what it's telling you is what the problem is, not what's causing the problem. Even on American cars they can be a real pain.

10 years ago when I was working at a Jaguar shop in Nassau, there was a "guaranteed to pass" inspection that a neighboring shop offered. Once drove a VW Bug over there with no brakes. Yep, passed the safety inspection.

[Jckol]

Interesting... I remember my father was telling me that when he had a CEL on his car, he disconnected the battery and the mechanic said that the computer can't be read and he has to come back after he put 100 miles on the car after disconnecting the battery. Does this car work differently? With INPA I can clear the error memory for the code, and it's good for a couple ignition cycles. Sometimes it goes away for longer than other times. The only reason I haven't tried my luck and trying to get inspection after resetting the error memory in INPA is I'm scared it will come back in the middle of the inspection and the mechanic will put it on the system, and trust me, that's the last thing I need to deal with with this car. Happened to my dad a few years back and it was a nightmare. You gotta show the DMV receipts from a shop that the problem was fixed...

[psjr]

Every time I've seen people with this code it's been the chafed wiring. I'd test the wiring end to end for continuity and if that's OK replace the LDP.

[dburt86]

If you reset the DME, you need to drive the car for a length of time to reset most of the monitors. This usually takes 75ish miles. If you go before then, te monitors will not be set and the inspection will immediately fail you.

Usually EVAP codes take a little bit longer to set a SES, so i would reset it, drive the car 75 miles and immediately bring it to inspections.

Typically speaking, if a sensor/motor/module ect is unplugged or completely dead, it will immediately set a SES light.

With that said, how quickly does the code come back after you clear it?

If its immediately, then i can almost guarantee its a wiring fault or an actual dead leak diag pump

[Jckol]

The code doesn't come back right away after I cleared it. Sometimes it comes back after 2 miles, sometimes it comes back after 50. It's a random thing. I'm almost 100% positive that it's not chafed wiring because in all the threads where chafed wiring was the problem, it wasn't the 1475 code. It was the 1442 code, which is Leakage Diagnostic Pump Control Circuit Signal Low. I've checked the wiring multiple times, and re insulated it just to be safe, yet that doesn't really fix anything. I'm going to try the gas cap gasket and see if that needs to be replaced. It's part of the EVAP system and it's the only thing that can cause a code to pop up sporadically as it does.

If I clear the error memory in INPA do you think I can get inspection? Clearing the error memory gets rid of the CEL and it goes away for a couple ignition cycles, so I SHOULD be ok, or at least I think...

[1fatcat]

Just so you know, code P1475 requires two consecutive drive cycle failures for the light to come on. Meaning that the condition can occur on the first drive after clearing, but it won't actually turn the light on until the second drive cycle with a failure. They call that a pending code when the first failure happens, meaning that the code is recorded in the computer, but has not turned the light on yet and will not turn the light on until the second failure is detected. It's a "2 strikes, you're out" type of thing.

[dburt86]

I think clearing the codes through INPA will reset the monitors and cause you to fail.

Is it safe to assume that it's probably the actual LDP?

- - - Updated - - -

Try taking it out and cleaning it?

[Jckol]

Ok, I replaced the gasket around the gas cap and added a second gasket on top just to be 100% safe. I ran the car for a bit and INPA isn't showing any signs of the code reappearing. Fingers crossed that fixed the issue, but it's still a little too early to be sure, it can still come up again. If the code comes up again I'm going to replace the LDP. Would you think that buying a used one is safe? A new LDP and charcoal canister is around 400 dollars while I can get them used for about 100 on Ebay.

Also, any idea on why my rear left blinker doesn't work unless either the brake is pressed or the car lights are on? I'm about to drag a wire from the side blinker to the rear left and call it a day, unless that's also related to the LCM, which should be coming in the mail tomorrow.

- - - Updated - - -

Turns out the issue was the gas cap gasket. I went to the mechanic and I passed inspection and he said that the EVAP system shows no issues at all. :D Now I can renew registration and get on with my life, haha.

Side note, anyone have any clue about the blinker issue? Not that it's a big deal but just so it's out of the way.

[bass528]

Every time I had a evap code it always was the gas cap. These gaskets get hard too soon with not enough tension at times.

[Jckol]

Yup, it's been a couple days now and the code still hasn't come back. Definitely was the gas cap.

My blinker issue was fixed with the new LCM.