FS: BMW M635 valve shim removal tool rare

[amthatiam]

Hello everyone,
I have a valve shim removal tool for sale for euro M635 engines, it will not work on US spec cars as the valve spacing is different. This is a very rare tool. I used this tool once, it looks new. If anyone is interested let me know.

Dan

[rlkrlk]

I'll take it for $35.

Thanks,

Ray

[amthatiam]

Add $250.00 to that and we'll talk, I paid $310.00 for it a few years back it's on the bay for $285.00, thanks for the offer though.

[rlkrlk]

:D

Good luck with the sale.

Cheers,

Ray

[rmorin1249]

I'm beginning to understand why a valve adjustment costs so much on these cars. A $300 hand tool? WOW!

[86GT635]

I'm beginning to understand why a valve adjustment costs so much on these cars. A $300 hand tool? WOW!

Someone would be lucky to pay that in service hours/parts for the job, and it be done correctly. Isn't it protocol to do the job every 15k miles?

[amthatiam]

Yes the adjustment interval is every 15,000 miles, the tool is an extremely well made German tool and makes the job very easy to do, saved me much money when I did mine after the head was rebuilt and the timing chain was replaced.

Dan

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This tool actually depresses the shim buckets so the shims can be removed, it does not remove the shim itself, their is a bit more to the tool than maybe I explained.

Dan

[eric1ono]

Dan,

Do you happen to have any pictures showing how you performed the valve adjustment or a more detailed explination of the process? It might help some more people to have the confidence to do this themselves and purchase the tool.

Eric

[rmorin1249]

Dan,

Do you happen to have any pictures showing how you performed the valve adjustment or a more detailed explination of the process? It might help some more people to have the confidence to do this themselves and purchase the tool.

Eric

Eric, if you decide to go this route, I will gladly pay you to adjust mine. Here in MD, prices range from $450 - $700.

[EuroGeorge]

I believe there are actually two tools involved. One depresses the bucket holding the shim and the other removes the shim.

[amthatiam]

Hi George,
Yes it is a good idea to explain how the tool works, and, you can use compressed air or a seal pick to remove the shim once the shim buckets are depressed. Valve clearances are checked with the engine cold. That said, the tool has two "hooks" one on each end, one for intake valves and one for exhaust. Remove valve cover, remove spark plugs for two reasons, one to be able to tell when each cylinder is on top dead center compression stroke and two to make it easier to turn engine over by hand to get each cylinder there. Starting with #1 cylinder get it to top dead center on the compression stroke, you will be able to tell as all valves will be closed, I used the seal pick mentioned earlier to verify by sticking it into the spark plug hole and turning engine over slowly by hand until the pick stopped moving at TDC.

Take a feeler gauge and measure the clearance of all valves between cam lobe heel and shim, write these measurements and positions down, it is very important to do this with all cylinders to establish a base line for initial valve adjustment and for future to keep track of what number shim is in what bucket. Do this with each cylinder. I drew a picture of the head with the four valves per cylinder and wrote on that as to what each measurement was in millimeters for each valve in each cylinder making sure measurements are taken with each cylinder at TDC compression stroke.

Once you have your measurements see which one(s) are out of spec (factory spec is 0.30mm-0.35mm clearance if memory serves) Lets say that the front most exhaust valve on #1 cylinder reads 0.40mm clearance, you now know that that valve is out of spec by 0.05mm. This is where the tool I'm selling comes into play, on one end of the tool it is marked with an "A" this is the exhaust side of the tool, you take the tool and stick the nose of this hook under the camshaft and centered between the shim buckets for that cylinder and lever it down with the other end of the tool towards the intake cam, the tool will depress both exhaust buckets at the same time. Before depressing the buckets look at them closely you will see a notch in them, this is where you poke with the pick between the shim and the bucket or blow the compressed air, turn the bucket so the notch is facing towards the center of the head. I tried using the pick and it had a very hard time breaking the oil suction between the shim and bucket. Once you have the shim out look on the underside of it, their will be a number (the shims are numbered in millimeters I believe from 2.85 to 4.25mm) using the above example we know that we are out of spec by 0.05mm lets say that the shim you pulled reads 3-85 that is a 3.85mm shim, you now know that you will need either a 3.90 or 3.95 to get back into spec.

At this point you will most likely need to order the shim(s) you need, their are a couple of aftermarket company's that sell them or you can get them from a Volvo dealer, 90's Volvo's used the same shims and they sell them much cheaper. Install new shim being sure it is seated in the bucket correctly, also be sure to install the shim with the number facing down so the cam doesn't wear it away. Remove the tool and repeat as required. Install valve cover, plugs, and wires your done, you just saved yourself a bunch of money.

The job is much easier than it may sound and once you do it you will wonder why you ever paid so much to have someone else do the job. The tool is invaluable for doing this. Quite the money saver.

I have eight shims that I will include with the tool if anyone is interested.

Dan

[EuroGeorge]

Hi George,
Yes it is a good idea to explain how the tool works, and, you can use compressed air or a seal pick to remove the shim once the shim buckets are depressed. Valve clearances are checked with the engine cold. That said, the tool has two "hooks" one on each end, one for intake valves and one for exhaust. Remove valve cover, remove spark plugs for two reasons, one to be able to tell when each cylinder is on top dead center compression stroke and two to make it easier to turn engine over by hand to get each cylinder there. Starting with #1 cylinder get it to top dead center on the compression stroke, you will be able to tell as all valves will be closed, I used the seal pick mentioned earlier to verify by sticking it into the spark plug hole and turning engine over slowly by hand until the pick stopped moving at TDC.

Take a feeler gauge and measure the clearance of all valves between cam lobe heel and shim, write these measurements and positions down, it is very important to do this with all cylinders to establish a base line for initial valve adjustment and for future to keep track of what number shim is in what bucket. Do this with each cylinder. I drew a picture of the head with the four valves per cylinder and wrote on that as to what each measurement was in millimeters for each valve in each cylinder making sure measurements are taken with each cylinder at TDC compression stroke.

Once you have your measurements see which one(s) are out of spec (factory spec is 0.30mm-0.35mm clearance if memory serves) Lets say that the front most exhaust valve on #1 cylinder reads 0.40mm clearance, you now know that that valve is out of spec by 0.05mm. This is where the tool I'm selling comes into play, on one end of the tool it is marked with an "A" this is the exhaust side of the tool, you take the tool and stick the nose of this hook under the camshaft and centered between the shim buckets for that cylinder and lever it down with the other end of the tool towards the intake cam, the tool will depress both exhaust buckets at the same time. Before depressing the buckets look at them closely you will see a notch in them, this is where you poke with the pick between the shim and the bucket or blow the compressed air, turn the bucket so the notch is facing towards the center of the head. I tried using the pick and it had a very hard time breaking the oil suction between the shim and bucket. Once you have the shim out look on the underside of it, their will be a number (the shims are numbered in millimeters I believe from 2.85 to 4.25mm) using the above example we know that we are out of spec by 0.05mm lets say that the shim you pulled reads 3-85 that is a 3.85mm shim, you now know that you will need either a 3.90 or 3.95 to get back into spec.

At this point you will most likely need to order the shim(s) you need, their are a couple of aftermarket company's that sell them or you can get them from a Volvo dealer, 90's Volvo's used the same shims and they sell them much cheaper. Install new shim being sure it is seated in the bucket correctly, also be sure to install the shim with the number facing down so the cam doesn't wear it away. Remove the tool and repeat as required. Install valve cover, plugs, and wires your done, you just saved yourself a bunch of money.

The job is much easier than it may sound and once you do it you will wonder why you ever paid so much to have someone else do the job. The tool is invaluable for doing this. Quite the money saver.

I have eight shims that I will include with the tool if anyone is interested.

Dan

Is this Dan Curran? If so, how have you been guy?

[apbails]

You've done valve adjst on these cars, right?
I believe there are actually two tools involved. One depresses the bucket holding the shim and the other removes the shim.

[EuroGeorge]

You've done valve adjst on these cars, right?

Yes. Yes I have. It's a 2 six pack job :beer

[amthatiam]

It is Dan Curran, is this the infamous George Barber? I was wondering if it might be. I have been doing very well. How have you been? Been a few years. I sold M635 to a gentleman in northern Jersey who works for BMW, it is in very good hands. The guy that bought it is extremely anal retentive and last I heard from him the car was well on the way to perfection, I'm glad it went to an enthusiast.

I am now driving an 01 E55 AMG which is now for sale as we are looking to get a Merc GL320 CDI. The merc is one hell of a nice ride.

Dan

[EuroGeorge]

It is Dan Curran, is this the infamous George Barber? I was wondering if it might be. I have been doing very well. How have you been? Been a few years. I sold M635 to a gentleman in northern Jersey who works for BMW, it is in very good hands. The guy that bought it is extremely anal retentive and last I heard from him the car was well on the way to perfection, I'm glad it went to an enthusiast.

I am now driving an 01 E55 AMG which is now for sale as we are looking to get a Merc GL320 CDI. The merc is one hell of a nice ride.

Dan

Yes it is. Jeff Downing and I were just talking about you back in April. Good to know you're still alive and kickin.

Cheers,

George

[amthatiam]

Good to hear you are doing well, How has Jeff been doing? I talk with Mike Noble via email now and again. Do you still have the same car? How bout Jeff is he still fixing up the maroon 6? Tell him I said hello.

Dan

[rmorin1249]

;)
You've done valve adjst on these cars, right?

George, you might be able to make a living traveling around the country doing valve adjustments. I could be your first customer.

[apbails]

Contents of this message contain a shameless plug for George's talents. Randall, you wouldn't be George's first customer. I've gotten hands on knowledge and expertise from George over many years. I'm to the point, I'd rather pay George to work on my car than take it to an overbooked garage. And between my "shop" and Alan's George has what he needs to work with. QUOTE=rmorin1249;27752329];)

George, you might be able to make a living traveling around the country doing valve adjustments. I could be your first customer.[/QUOTE]

[EuroGeorge]

Contents of this message contain a shameless plug for George's talents. Randall, you wouldn't be George's first customer. I've gotten hands on knowledge and expertise from George over many years. I'm to the point, I'd rather pay George to work on my car than take it to an overbooked garage. And between my "shop" and Alan's George has what he needs to work with. QUOTE=rmorin1249;27752329];)

George, you might be able to make a living traveling around the country doing valve adjustments. I could be your first customer.[/QUOTE]

Thanks, but I don't have a gas powered turtle neck sweater :beer

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Good to hear you are doing well, How has Jeff been doing? I talk with Mike Noble via email now and again. Do you still have the same car? How bout Jeff is he still fixing up the maroon 6? Tell him I said he

Dan

Jeff's an aspiring rock star and "wolfie" is in a state of constant improvement. Celebrating 13 years with my car. She needs a good paint job but goes like stink.

[amthatiam]

Glad to hear, aspiring rock star is a good thing. Tell him I said hello. As for the tool it has been sold, to someone here actually. Thank you all for the interest.

Dan