Starter removol insturstions for a 1983 633 csi.

[sixernick]

I need to do the above mentioned task. Is there a right up for r and ring such a unit for the e24. I know there is for the e28, but hope that I don't have to deal with coolant etc.

[Rick in Denver]

Unfortunately, it's pretty much the same on an E24 as it is on an E28. If you were in the Denver metro area, I would help you out.

[EuroGeorge]

Try this link from Big Coupe Group http://normgrills.net/bcg/Engine_Service_FAQ.html#anchor3911205

George

[Tnarkowicz]

I have done this job twice without draining any coolant.

Instructions in above link are good but you can get to the top bolt without draining coolant just using the 17mm ring spanner from the e24 toolkit. You need to fit it in blindly at the firewall. Its fiddly, take it slow. Shine a bright torch in through the gap in the exhaust manifold to help view the bolt. Some people even claim to be able to fit a swivelling socket driver through this manifold gap , I had no success with this.

Bottom bolt is easily accessed from lhs. Once hou have both bolts out you need go remove oil filter to drop out the starter.

Replacement with the slimmer and more powerful E34 starter is recommended - type SR441x

[RSheiman]

Have never done my 635 but had the late, great Jim Albright replace it and it was about 200 bucks for everything. Nothing on the invoice about oil or coolant. I was too young and stupid to ask him what tricks he used, though I did plead with him to start a journal of all his knowledge. I can say, on an M6 it is a fairly easy job.

[1986series6]

496807496808496809496810This worked for me on my 86. If the intake has an opening to see the top bolt, it should work for you.

Don’t have to drain coolant. The top bolt can be accessed through the top of intake manifold.
17 mm swivel with a short socket height, place on bolt, will be on an angle, tap the extension to twist
the socket on the bolt. You’ll have to lean to a bit, but it can be done.
You can put tape around head of bolt to hold onto socket when threading back in.

[CW6er]

No, you don''t have to drain the coolant (although that is the Factory Method - See bellow**).

It seems that each model is a little bit different in the clearance of items, so there is no one sure fire way that works for every car. The two issues are:

1) Getting the top starter bolt out:


If you have a starter with a deeper recess and a small enough socket, that may be the way to go as "1986series6" outlines in his post.
If that doesn't seem likely, then try using the 17mm box end wrench (ring spanner) out of the tool kit as Tnarkowicz suggests.
If access to the upper bolt is restricted by the heater hose that runs from the back of the head to the heater valve, then just remove the hose at the heater valve and flex the hose up, out of the way. You will only lose a small splash of coolant so you don't have drain it.
If you don't have the wrench in the tool kit I've used a standard Sear box end wrench holding the offset towards the firewall.


2) Getting the starter out of the car:

Believe it or not, the official, Factory method** is to pump the brakes 20 times to de-pressurize the hydraulic system and unbolt the hydraulic hose at the Regulator to push the hose out of the way to make clearance to pull the starter straight up and out! The risk of rounding off a flare nut is not worth it, so I much prefer dropping the oil filter which is meant to be repeatedly removed is more desirable. Some people have claimed that their hydraulic hose allowed enough clearance to remove the starter straight up and out, so check it out, but it probably won't work.

Bottom line, read all of the tips and tricks and use what works for your car.

** Here is the Factory method (scroll down to "Vehicles after change point in 1982":
www.malloc.nl/BMW/635CSi/pages/en/12410200.html#refertoc