SHouldn't both rear wheels spin when an LSD is installed...?

[shaytanabyad]

Guys,

Am I missing something (like a working LSD)?


http://youtu.be/kcRizW7KQrY

[mottati]

stock is only 25% lock up, so not necessarily all of the time. but looking at the video, i'd expect you to get some motivation from the right rear. Probably worn out.

[PorscheH6]

fried clutch pack

[konarider98]

Have you had both rear wheels off the ground and rotated one wheel with the e brake off in neutral?

If both wheels rotate the same direction you have a limited slip differential.

If the wheels rotate opposite of one another you have a open differential.

If you don't know what I am talking about ask whoever installed the "3.15"

[shaytanabyad]

Sorry. I should have given some backstory... My brother and I installed the diff and it had the coveted "S" on it...
http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u480/shaytanabyad/file-37.jpg (http://s1069.photobucket.com/user/shaytanabyad/media/file-37.jpg.html)

The donor car never ran so it wasn't pre-tested. Would a "fried clutch pack" essentially turn an LSD into an open diff? Any way to check w/out taking everything out?

[Leonator134]

Yes, yes they should.
http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/t434/leonator134/7BD5B33B-F09B-45C8-B319-AE6F82EC96FE-7749-0000079911B153F6_zps8d803248.jpg (http://s1059.photobucket.com/user/leonator134/media/7BD5B33B-F09B-45C8-B319-AE6F82EC96FE-7749-0000079911B153F6_zps8d803248.jpg.html)

[demetk]

Would a "fried clutch pack" essentially turn an LSD into an open diff? Any way to check w/out tacking everything out?

Have someone slowly turn a wheel in one direction. If you can freely turn the other wheel in the other direction without any resistance the clutch is gone. On a bad diff, I could easily turn the output flanges in opposite directions by hand. On a good diff, I could not. There are write-ups on changing the clutches. It doesn't look too complicated.

[Hofmeister]

Seems like fried clutches from the whine.

Also lol at 'stupidest thing ive done'

[Binjammin]

Seems like fried clutches from the whine.

Also lol at 'stupidest thing ive done'

Fried clutches won't whine, they just don't grip. Whining is bearing noise.

[RobertFontaine]

both my wheels chirp.

[shaytanabyad]

Whining is bearing noise.

Which bearings, where?

From what I'm hearing, I think, moving forward, assuming a fried clutch pack is the thing to do.

Thank you for all the help.

[Binjammin]

Which bearings, where?

From what I'm hearing, I think, moving forward, assuming a fried clutch pack is the thing to do.

Thank you for all the help.

:dunno Didn't watch the video, but if someone was hearing a whining noise, that's what my post was referring to.

[slippyM395]

Looks like it could be a broken pinion gear, but I'm no expert. Have you tried to spin them on dry? If its a healthy LSD it should be able to do this.
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk249/bigbobskee22/image.jpg (http://s282.photobucket.com/user/bigbobskee22/media/image.jpg.html)

[K Fox]

Would a "fried clutch pack" essentially turn an LSD into an open diff? Any way to check w/out tacking everything out?

Yep. So it's just all tired and worn out. Aside from having to remove the diff to do it, the rebuild isn't too bad. Plus, if you want to, you can upgrade the clutch pack to 40% lockup. Jon (5nail5) has info in one of his threads.

Fox

- - - Updated - - -


Looks like it could be a broken pinion gear, but I'm no expert.

Uh, on this one I think not. Generally a broken pinion would make the car not move - the pinion is the input point for power. So I highly doubt it's that (like 99.9995% sure). I'm about that sure it's the clutch pack - the 'whining' that someone mentioned could easily be the clutches slipping and chattering at a high pitch.

OP - do you know how many miles the car the S3.15 came out of had? Still going to end up needing a rebuild, but I'm just curious.

[shaytanabyad]

Not sure how many miles in the donor car but I look through my records and can try to find out. Anyone have a good source for new clutch packs? I'm not sure if I need 40% but will look into it more.

Found this...

http://www.bimmerdiffs.com/products/210mm-differential-2-clutch-kit-25-lockup

Thoughts? 2-clutch set gives 25% lock-up and there's a 3-clutch option, which requires some machining, that gives 40% lock-up. I think 25% will be just fine for me.

Also, check out Jon K's AWESOME video here...

http://www.bimmerdiffs.com/pages/guides-videos

[ShapeShifter]

Jon posted some videos on youtube doing this.

[shaytanabyad]

Jon posted some videos on youtube doing this.

Pat - Thanks. I posted a link to one of them above...ha.

[K Fox]

Not sure how many miles in the donor car but I look through my records and can try to find out. Anyone have a good source for new clutch packs? I'm not sure if I need 40% but will look into it more.

Found this...

http://www.bimmerdiffs.com/products/210mm-differential-2-clutch-kit-25-lockup

Thoughts? 2-clutch set gives 25% lock-up and there's a 3-clutch option, which requires some machining, that gives 40% lock-up. I think 25% will be just fine for me.

Also, check out Jon K's AWESOME video here...

http://www.bimmerdiffs.com/pages/guides-videos

IF you've already got to rebuild it, why not 'do it right'? The 40% option doesn't really have any drawbacks, so why not? I'll be going that exact route when I get a 3.15 myself (hopefully sometime this spring). My $.02

Fox

[Leonator134]

Fox there's a 3.15 for sale in the classifieds.

[shaytanabyad]

... why not 'do it right'?

Honestly, it's a bit scary (to me) because of the machining required. Plus it's a bit more expensive... But I might...ha.

[me78569]

Does the s on the case itself mean lsd or is it only a s on the tag?

I seem to remember my 3.15 lsd having a s on the case, but I don't remember the stocker.

[gixxerboy63]

Check this out:
http://diffsonline.com/bmw-540-differentials.html#.UuxUqdiYa4Q

they also have 6speed Getrag transmissions for our cars
http://diffsonline.com/getrag-6-speed-race-prepared-transmission-e46m3.html#.UuxVj9iYa4Q

Cool stuff

Gixxer wants^

[Hofmeister]

Does the s on the case itself mean lsd or is it only a s on the tag?

I seem to remember my 3.15 lsd having a s on the case, but I don't remember the stocker.

Both mean that. My current lsd had 2 S's on the case.

[me78569]

thanks for the insight

[Hofmeister]

thanks for the insight

Lsd cases are also painted black.

[Binjammin]

Lsd cases are also painted black.

all cases are painted black. some just last longer.

[wanganstyle]

IF you've already got to rebuild it, why not 'do it right'? The 40% option doesn't really have any drawbacks, so why not? I'll be going that exact route when I get a 3.15 myself (hopefully sometime this spring). My $.02

Fox


Plenty of drawbacks to a imbalanced 3 disc setup with preload springs. one side stresses out the outer first

BMW uses 2 discs or 4 discs for motorsports use.
aftermarket units always have equal number of discs each axle. This is intentional......



if the unit is converted to a 3 disc 40% setting: car will understeer more. (obvious function of LSD locking up)
static preload goes up as well; this is not good for handling. Preload is the ghetto nissan drift kid way of breaking the tires free; unless this is your goal I dont suggest it.

The original 210mm 25% lockup LSD will put down a 850csi of power or a e39 m5 of power. untill its worn out; then it is = open diff.

a 0 mile 100% functioning original 25% lockup LSD unit with original 2 packs has no problem putting down 500rwhp.





Just tear it apart and build it back to 0 mile stock.

If your LSD internal parts are = DEAD
then the pinion bearings/races/seals are also = time for replacement.

[shaytanabyad]

If your LSD internal parts are = DEAD
then the pinion bearings/races/seals are also = time for replacement.

Thank you for this...

[wanganstyle]

Thank you for this...

Download bmw TIS manual for E30M and it will have basic guidelines for replacement of all wear items.

[K Fox]

Plenty of drawbacks to a imbalanced 3 disc setup with preload springs. one side stresses out the outer first

BMW uses 2 discs or 4 discs for motorsports use.
aftermarket units always have equal number of discs each axle. This is intentional......



if the unit is converted to a 3 disc 40% setting: car will understeer more. (obvious function of LSD locking up)
static preload goes up as well; this is not good for handling. Preload is the ghetto nissan drift kid way of breaking the tires free; unless this is your goal I dont suggest it.

The original 210mm 25% lockup LSD will put down a 850csi of power or a e39 m5 of power. untill its worn out; then it is = open diff.

a 0 mile 100% functioning original 25% lockup LSD unit with original 2 packs has no problem putting down 500rwhp.

Hmm...I'm having an hard time making sense of this. What it seems you're saying is that by making the lockup percentage higher, you'll understeer more (as you said, the function of the LSD locking)?? But that's not entirely true...there are more factors at play. And as far as transferring the power, I'm sort of lost - having a higher lockup doesn't mean it transfers more power, just that it keeps the wheels individual speeds closer (less slip before transferring torque across). I find that rather beneficial, myself, hence the intent to increase lockup. So I'm kind of lost...

Also, having a LSD, and especially a 'tighter' one, isn't really about drifting, or breaking the tires loose (at least for me) - it's about controlling the car and putting power down when you want to, even if one wheel is losing traction. Common uses I see are general traction in foul weather, and exiting a corner when having fun on a racetrack. Both conditions are improved by the higher lockup, as there is less wasted energy going to the slipping wheel before the torque transfers to the tire with grip. That's why I want to do it, so unless I'm missing something your trying to say, I don't get it.

Also, the tendency to understeer is more of a function of the power applied than the rear wheels lockup %. Unless you have a welded diff, you won't even notice until you apply power (and even with a welded diff, the inside rear wheel just slips/hops), and if you start understeering when applying power, then it's up to you to control both yourself and the car. But you'd have to be applying a fair amount of power to really affect your steering, or be moving rather quickly. Anyway, that's what I see - but again, maybe I'm lost. :dunno

Fox

[wanganstyle]

I race endurance wheel to wheel; if looking for drifting idiots I'm not sure where they are found.

for street driven cars the original bmw 25% lockup setting is honestly the best. If the unit is 0 mile brand new it will handle perfectly like bmw intended.

E30M and e36m are well known for being some of the best handling cars on road and track period. BMW original 25% LSD is good enough for a skilled NASA gts racer to podium with.

Increasing lockup without removing static Preload springs causes quite a bit of resistance to turning; this is the key point you are not understanding.

BMW specs no preload springs in their oem motorsports lsd units with high locking %; no reason to argue with the creator of the vehicle.

More locking has more potential understeer unless it's engagement is set to desired handling settting. More static lockup at rest is NOT good; this prevents turning which is not ideal for lap times or good handling

3 disc setting means one side has more clutch packs than the other; it's internal dynamic is not designed for imbalanced shock loading.

My race car uses a 4 disc unit @60% lockup with no springs inside; it's much easier to turn than a 4 disc with Preload springs; one with Preload and high lockup is very hard to turn; I.e. almost impossible to push the car in a circle.

A 3 disc preloaded like amateurs suggest building is just that; amature. Makes for a car that's hard to push in a circle because the lsd is fighting turning.

3 disc with preload springs @40% lockup is great for drag racing or going in a straight line for a big power car; not ideal for circuit use.


When the wheel speeds equalize the car is also slowing down; the diff internal parts are literally = brake pads+brake rotors.


One easy illustration for lockup % impact on handling is to drive a subaru STi; it has a electronic driver controlled control differential.

Switch it to full locked and try to drive in tight circles; compare to unlocked.

[K Fox]

I race endurance wheel to wheel; if looking for drifting idiots I'm not sure where they are found.

for street driven cars the original bmw 25% lockup setting is honestly the best. If the unit is 0 mile brand new it will handle perfectly like bmw intended.

E30M and e36m are well known for being some of the best handling cars on road and track period. BMW original 25% LSD is good enough for a skilled NASA gts racer to podium with.

Increasing lockup without removing static Preload springs causes quite a bit of resistance to turning; this is the key point you are not understanding.

BMW specs no preload springs in their oem motorsports lsd units with high locking %; no reason to argue with the creator of the vehicle.

More locking has more potential understeer unless it's engagement is set to desired handling settting. More static lockup at rest is NOT good; this prevents turning which is not ideal for lap times or good handling

3 disc setting means one side has more clutch packs than the other; it's internal dynamic is not designed for imbalanced shock loading.

My race car uses a 4 disc unit @60% lockup with no springs inside; it's much easier to turn than a 4 disc with Preload springs; one with Preload and high lockup is very hard to turn; I.e. almost impossible to push the car in a circle.

A 3 disc preloaded like amateurs suggest building is just that; amature. Makes for a car that's hard to push in a circle because the lsd is fighting turning.

3 disc with preload springs @40% lockup is great for drag racing or going in a straight line for a big power car; not ideal for circuit use.


When the wheel speeds equalize the car is also slowing down; the diff internal parts are literally = brake pads+brake rotors.


One easy illustration for lockup % impact on handling is to drive a subaru STi; it has a electronic driver controlled control differential.

Switch it to full locked and try to drive in tight circles; compare to unlocked.

OK, I can see what you're saying about turning tightly - that part I know. But we're not talking about a super tight, super high lockup - only going from 25% to 40%. So the difference in low speed tight turns on dry pavement will be manageable. As for the unbalanced issue (which is the part that confused me most initially TBH), I'm going to just quote bimmerdiffs - it's in his FAQ.


I frequently receive questions very similar to the following:
"I am interested in buying a 3 clutch kit for my car but am concerned it will create an uneven locking action between the left and right tires when using an odd number of clutches (e.g. 3 clutches instead of 4 clutches)? Doesn't the uneven amount of clutches create that issue?"
The short answer is that there is no uneven locking between the wheels. A three clutch car differential will have the same consistency as a two clutch differential.


The reasoning, logic, and application behind this is that a clutch based limited slip unit is really a variance limiting gearbox. The clutches on both sides work in tandem due to the pressure assembly design. The entire center section of the unit is connected by gears - thus meaning that the two rear axles are essentially connected together with a pressure assembly. Let's say you are driving spirited and the passenger wheel starts to slip (spinning a bit faster than the drivers wheel). Looking at the differential from the passenger side, the passenger side of the pressure assembly is spinning clockwise and the drivers side is spinning counter clockwise. To normalize the speed and get limited slip, you can apply a force (brake) the differential from the drivers side clockwise, you can apply a force (brake) the differential from the passenger side counterclockwise, or a combination of both. In a theoretical situation of applied force, it wouldn't matter if you put three clutches on a single side or split them two on one side and one on the other - the six friction surfaces (each side of the clutch in a three clutch setup) are going to assist with the speed variance control.


As always, if you have questions that you can't find the answer to here, please email bimmerdiffs@gmail.com.


Thanks for visiting my site!


~ Jonathan Thayer



I didn't want to just come out and say it, so I looked first - and I'm not crazy (at least on this one). From an engineering standpoint, there is no difference how many clutches a diff has - they're only job is to manage wheels speeds in relation to each other. Given that, and the fact that the clutches are installed on only one side of the diff (ring gear) anyway, there's no reason to use only an even number of discs - just space constraints limit the number. If it's odd (like the 210mm diffs) then it's odd - but it ultimately has no effect on the balance of the power output.

Now I'm not 100% sure what the preload ends up being with their 3 clutch kit, but I'm betting it's basically the stock preload - that would make sense as machining is required to fit the 3rd plate and clutch. So if you have to machine, why not go to factory specs? Makes sense to me, but I don't know that one yet, nor do I have time right this minute to find it (the number question took 30 secs - but I really have to get to work now). But, while I'm again not positive of the value, I'll wager it's not that high - this was a street car as mentioned, so tight turning was considered in it's design. I'll be back tonight after work and see what I can find - but I like this conversation. Thanks!

Fox

[5mall5nail5]

Honestly, it's a bit scary (to me) because of the machining required. Plus it's a bit more expensive... But I might...ha.

Hey just to clarify - 3 clutch = 40% and there's no machining required if you have a 188mm diff. If you have a 210mm diff then you will have to machine.

- - - Updated - - -


OK, I can see what you're saying about turning tightly - that part I know. But we're not talking about a super tight, super high lockup - only going from 25% to 40%. So the difference in low speed tight turns on dry pavement will be manageable. As for the unbalanced issue (which is the part that confused me most initially TBH), I'm going to just quote bimmerdiffs - it's in his FAQ.


Yep - you're correct. Wagan is knowledgeable but this is one spot i disagree with him about. It's an assembly - the friction of the 3 discs is what dictates the 40% differential. The center section expands. In order for anything to slip the clutches, as a whole, need to slip. You could do 7 or 13 discs and it's still about the total CoF, not the fact that there are 2 on one side and 1 on the other.

[K Fox]

Hey just to clarify - 3 clutch = 40% and there's no machining required if you have a 188mm diff. If you have a 210mm diff then you will have to machine.

He should have a 210 diff - I believe his car was an original 6 speed, if I remember correctly.

Fox (cars warm now - outta here)

[5mall5nail5]

He should have a 210 diff - I believe his car was an original 6 speed, if I remember correctly.

Fox (cars warm now - outta here)

Ok, so yeah he needs to cut the thickness of a dog ear plate and clutch disc out of his carrier cover. Its not THAT hard. 20 minute machine shop job. OP if you need it done let me know.

Also, speaking as an owner of an "amateur" 40% and 60% LSD, I can find NO different in turn-in during spirited driving. If I were a calibrated formula one driver yeah maybe I could pick up on it. However, I don't have a 36 disc zero-preload LSD :rofl so I wouldn't know the difference. What I do know is the ONLY thing I can tell is that my 4-clutch 60% car will chirp the inside wheel a little bit on tight-radius turns in the warm weather while my 3-clutch 40% car, generally, will not do that. Both turn-in the same except one is a lot more "locked" feeling in turns.

[shaytanabyad]

Yes, it's a 210.

Jon - thank you for the offer. When it comes time to do the job, I might reach out if I decide to go the 40% route (which seems like it might be better / easier than I previously thought).

All - thank you for the great info above.

[wanganstyle]

Ok, so yeah he needs to cut the thickness of a dog ear plate and clutch disc out of his carrier cover. Its not THAT hard. 20 minute machine shop job. OP if you need it done let me know.

Also, speaking as an owner of an "amateur" 40% and 60% LSD, I can find NO different in turn-in during spirited driving. If I were a calibrated formula one driver yeah maybe I could pick up on it. However, I don't have a 36 disc zero-preload LSD :rofl so I wouldn't know the difference. What I do know is the ONLY thing I can tell is that my 4-clutch 60% car will chirp the inside wheel a little bit on tight-radius turns in the warm weather while my 3-clutch 40% car, generally, will not do that. Both turn-in the same except one is a lot more "locked" feeling in turns.

Yes this locked feeling is the increased understeer that your original 25% didn't have. More obvious the more disc's are Inside; more obvious with preload springs inside.

Open diffs turn the best theoretically; no resistance to turning.

If the original 25% 2 disc unit is 100% it will hold quite alot of power; you would know this better than anyone else. A 0 mile 25% original setting lsd is the best option for 95% of humans.

BMW had oem factory equipped 4 disc 75% lockup units in some specific E9's & older cars; no need for this in the 90 's era with more advanced e30 and e34 chassis.

Modern m cars have 0 lockup when desired; 100% or whatever % when computer decides it's needed

[jint45]

Hey Jon, watched your video, really enjoyed it. Wanted to clarify a couple things. I noticed you said that on a 3 pack set up you just get rid of the spacer and don't machine anything, but if I'm not wrong, I noticed that on a 4 pack you got rid of the spacer AND did the machining? I'm gonna pull this mission on my M5, guessing I have the 210mm one. Hopefully this will work out for me as well.

[5mall5nail5]

Yes this locked feeling is the increased understeer that your original 25% didn't have. More obvious the more disc's are Inside; more obvious with preload springs inside.

Open diffs turn the best theoretically; no resistance to turning.

If the original 25% 2 disc unit is 100% it will hold quite alot of power; you would know this better than anyone else. A 0 mile 25% original setting lsd is the best option for 95% of humans.

BMW had oem factory equipped 4 disc 75% lockup units in some specific E9's & older cars; no need for this in the 90 's era with more advanced e30 and e34 chassis.

Modern m cars have 0 lockup when desired; 100% or whatever % when computer decides it's needed

When I said more locked feeling, I meant while accelerating and wheel slip going straight. I do not experience any push or understeering in turns what so ever. If you put me in a 25%, 40%, or 60% 188mm car I wouldn't know the difference.

- - - Updated - - -


Hey Jon, watched your video, really enjoyed it. Wanted to clarify a couple things. I noticed you said that on a 3 pack set up you just get rid of the spacer and don't machine anything, but if I'm not wrong, I noticed that on a 4 pack you got rid of the spacer AND did the machining? I'm gonna pull this mission on my M5, guessing I have the 210mm one. Hopefully this will work out for me as well.

On a 188mm you can remove the spacer and stick 3 clutch assemblies in. 4 assemblies like in my turbo car requires machining. For your 210mm you need to machine in order to fit 3 assemblies.

[Hoolie]

Chaged the fluid before install? Used LSD specific fluid?

[5mall5nail5]

Chaged the fluid before install? Used LSD specific fluid?

huh?

No I spent $1,000 rebuilding two diffs and then used the wrong fluid....

[Binjammin]

huh?

No I spent $1,000 rebuilding two diffs and then used the wrong fluid....

Why would you do that? It may prove to be a costly mistake down the road, you should drain it and refill before damage occurs.

[5mall5nail5]

Why would you do that? It may prove to be a costly mistake down the road, you should drain it and refill before damage occurs.

Whoops. Still learning.

[K Fox]

huh?

No I spent $1,000 rebuilding two diffs and then used the wrong fluid....

I think he was asking OP - I don't read that as being addressed to you - it just happened to be right after your post. That's what I see, anyway. Carry on with the humor. :)

Fox

[5mall5nail5]

Not sure who it was for, so I posted :)

[Binjammin]

Whoops. Still learning.

It's ok, with practice and trying you'll learn, both about diff building and posting!

[ross1]

When I said more locked feeling, I meant while accelerating and wheel slip going straight. I do not experience any push or understeering in turns what so ever. If you put me in a 25%, 40%, or 60% 188mm car I wouldn't know the difference.

- - - Updated - - -




On a 188mm you can remove the spacer and stick 3 clutch assemblies in. 4 assemblies like in my turbo car requires machining. For your 210mm you need to machine in order to fit 3 assemblies.
Actually, a tighter diff. will contribute to OVER steer.

[5mall5nail5]

Actually, a tighter diff. will contribute to OVER steer.

On power, sure. But, Wagan is saying that turn-in suffers from push and it induces understeer... which makes sense, except I don't experience it at 60%. I love 40 - 60% in the snow its fantastic :)

[Hoolie]

huh?

No I spent $1,000 rebuilding two diffs and then used the wrong fluid....

Nothing purple on the pic.. So not directed at you...

:P

[5mall5nail5]

Nothing purple on the pic.. So not directed at you...

:P

Ah, I missed where you quoted a pic ;)

[RVAE34]

I had my carrier cover machined for the triple clutch setup in my 210mm E39 M5 diff. It is pretty straight forward. You just need to measure the thickness of each clutch and pressure disc. Then machine the difference b/t the 2 setup and the 3 setup. I got all my parts from bimmerdiffs.

[wanganstyle]

Actually, a tighter diff. will contribute to OVER steer.

And understeer.

The function of a LSD differential is to limit turning. LIMIT SLIP.

OPEN differential has no limit of wheel speed diffence.

Any equalization in wheel speed can be = over or understeer depending on other dynamics.

[jint45]

- - - Updated - - -



On a 188mm you can remove the spacer and stick 3 clutch assemblies in. 4 assemblies like in my turbo car requires machining. For your 210mm you need to machine in order to fit 3 assemblies.

Ok, so then 4 clutch assemblies would be a better way to go since i'm already machining. Thanks.

[5mall5nail5]

Ok, so then 4 clutch assemblies would be a better way to go since i'm already machining. Thanks.

If you have a 210mm it can only take 3 clutches (with machining), easily. I think 4 will fit if you machine two sides.

[K Fox]

Ok, so then 4 clutch assemblies would be a better way to go since i'm already machining. Thanks.

I just want to point something out really quick - Jpn keeps mentioning this...


If you have a 210mm it can only take 3 clutches (with machining), easily. I think 4 will fit if you machine two sides.

...because your cars list says you have an M5. M5's came with the large case diffs (210mm), which would be why Jon keeps mentioning it - hopefully you know that and/or caught it. If not, now you know - you should have a 210mm case, so you'll be looking at those parts, and should be going for the 3 clutch pack if you're gonna machine (as Jon's mentioned a few times now :D).

Fox (Capt'n obvious to the rescue!!!)

[jint45]

If you have a 210mm it can only take 3 clutches (with machining), easily. I think 4 will fit if you machine two sides.
Ok thanks, that's all I wanted to clear out.

[wanganstyle]

If you have a 210mm it can only take 3 clutches (with machining), easily. I think 4 will fit if you machine two sides.

Not so much really; the 210mm units do not have dead spacers in the stack

To "machine it" one will need to increase the bore depth of the capsule. I wouldn't suggest this unless building a drag racing unit for more than 1,000rwhp

If one changes to a DIY 4 disc on a 210mm you are building a really interesting item; unless it's custom setup internally it will be pretty shitty to drive around town.


http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/21/qage2ata.jpg

[5mall5nail5]

Not so much really; the 210mm units do not have dead spacers in the stack

To "machine it" one will need to increase the bore depth of the capsule. I wouldn't suggest this unless building a drag racing unit for more than 1,000rwhp

If one changes to a DIY 4 disc on a 210mm you are building a really interesting item; unless it's custom setup internally it will be pretty shitty to drive around town.


http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/21/qage2ata.jpg

That's what I said - to run 3 discs in a 210 you need to machine. Two run 4 you have some more work, yet.