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boostedwolfie
12-18-2013, 05:26 PM
Finally figured put what was causing the unbearable belt squeal from my 2000 540.

When looking straight down at the pullies, the power steering pump appears to be crooked, angled at 1-2 degrees in(toward the passenger side). I noticed a knurled washer and bolt on the back side of the pump which looks to be an adjustment screw. Literally couldnt find anything on this so wanted to check here before i try and adjust it.

This IS in fact an adjusting screw correct? Anything that would cause it to come loose and angle that way?

Thanks in advance,
Ross

boostedwolfie
12-18-2013, 06:33 PM
No one knows anything about this clearly

rf900rkw
12-18-2013, 06:52 PM
Holy crap, hold your horses. We can't be on the forum 24/7... especially during christmas rushhour.


Anyway, you may be on the verge of a catostrophic failure. Search keywords "broken power steering pump.

Step one is to make sure the two bolts that hold the pump to the cover are tight. Once you know they are tight, loosen both the nut on the back and then the thumbscrew on the stablizer. Spin the thumbnut down until it contacts the er on the timing cover, then tighten the back nut. This is not meant to be an adjustment to align the pulley. IT is purely there to act as the thrird leg of a solid mount. If the pulley is not aligned, something in the pump or two bolts is already damaged.

boostedwolfie
12-18-2013, 07:21 PM
Holy crap, hold your horses. We can't be on the forum 24/7... especially during christmas rushhour. Anyway, you may be on the verge of a catostrophic failure. Search keywords "broken power steering pump. Step one is to make sure the two bolts that hold the pump to the cover are tight. Once you know they are tight, loosen both the nut on the back and then the thumbscrew on the stablizer. Spin the thumbnut down until it contacts the er on the timing cover, then tighten the back nut. This is not meant to be an adjustment to align the pulley. IT is purely there to act as the thrird leg of a solid mount. If the pulley is not aligned, something in the pump or two bolts is already damaged.

Here is what im working with http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa410/boostedwolfie/65082F1D-B5F4-4E56-BAEA-E06C55422B6C.png (http://s1196.photobucket.com/user/boostedwolfie/media/65082F1D-B5F4-4E56-BAEA-E06C55422B6C.png.html)

If that is not meant for adjustments why is it so complicated? Is it supposed to be longer then that or no? That nut in the middle wont thread one way or another its seated against the pump bracket and its too tight to fit a wrench in there

rf900rkw
12-18-2013, 07:30 PM
Can,t see the pic (mobile device). That is not an alignment adjustment. Cast aluminum pump and timing cover do not bend. You need to have everything square straight, and stress free or you will be buying a new pump.



Edit. Pix finally loaded. That is WRONG! Thumb nut goes on the front of the timing cover, regular nut behind.

boostedwolfie
12-18-2013, 07:41 PM
Can,t see the pic (mobile device). That is not an alignment adjustment. Cast aluminum pump and timing cover do not bend. You need to have everything square straight, and stress free or you will be buying a new pump.

Dude, you just said its not an adjustable bolt and that the timing cover and pump dont bend, so why is my pump sitting crooked when there is tension on the belt, how did it get that way if it doesnt bend over time or if the bolt doesnt adjust? Not trying to be ignorant just the opposite actually, please explain. Do i have bent hardware? How would it get that way?

boostedwolfie
12-18-2013, 07:43 PM
Can,t see the pic (mobile device). That is not an alignment adjustment. Cast aluminum pump and timing cover do not bend. You need to have everything square straight, and stress free or you will be buying a new pump. Edit. Pix finally loaded. That is WRONG! Thumb nut goes on the front of the timing cover, regular nut behind.

Well that explains it! I guess i have to remove the pump and switch it around then?

boostedwolfie
12-18-2013, 07:57 PM
And just to be clear, there is the nut in the middle of the bolt that sits as it is in the picture, when i remove the pump, the thumb nut is on the opposite side and sits flush on that side, and the other nut not pictured is tightened down on the side the thumbnut is on in the picture, is that all right?

rf900rkw
12-18-2013, 08:05 PM
Okay, I'll reword it. Cast aluminum doesn't like to bend. It doesn't take much and SNAP!Yep, you are going to have to remove the belt, and unbolt the pump. You should not have to cut loose any lines, so no fluid mess. Get the thumb nut wound down the long stud first. Bolt the pump back up to the pan. Wind the thumb nut down until it;s solidly against the timing cover ear without putting any tension on the pump. Then put a washer and nut on from the back side and tighten.

I'm quite serious in these things coming loose (or being installed incorrectly) and breaking pumps and a few timing covers. It's not terribly hard to get them set up, but it has to be right. And I now use locktite on the two main bolts, the ones going into the pan.

- - - Updated - - -

The long stud has a nut "built in". It is really a double ended bolt. So that stays in the pump. The n the thumb nut. Timing cover. Washer . Finally a normal hex nut. Washer and hex nut are missing.

boostedwolfie
12-18-2013, 08:14 PM
Okay, I'll reword it. Cast aluminum doesn't like to bend. It doesn't take much and SNAP!Yep, you are going to have to remove the belt, and unbolt the pump. You should not have to cut loose any lines, so no fluid mess. Get the thumb nut wound down the long stud first. Bolt the pump back up to the pan. Wind the thumb nut down until it;s solidly against the timing cover ear without putting any tension on the pump. Then put a washer and nut on from the back side and tighten. I'm quite serious in these things coming loose (or being installed incorrectly) and breaking pumps and a few timing covers. It's not terribly hard to get them set up, but it has to be right. And I now use locktite on the two main bolts, the ones going into the pan. - - - Updated - - - The long stud has a nut "built in". It is really a double ended bolt. So that stays in the pump. The n the thumb nut. Timing cover. Washer . Finally a normal hex nut. Washer and hex nut are missing.

Wonderful, ill pull it put it together CORRECTLY, and get back on here with my results. Thanks so much for your help.

boostedwolfie
12-23-2013, 08:39 PM
Okay, I'll reword it. Cast aluminum doesn't like to bend. It doesn't take much and SNAP!Yep, you are going to have to remove the belt, and unbolt the pump. You should not have to cut loose any lines, so no fluid mess. Get the thumb nut wound down the long stud first. Bolt the pump back up to the pan. Wind the thumb nut down until it;s solidly against the timing cover ear without putting any tension on the pump. Then put a washer and nut on from the back side and tighten. I'm quite serious in these things coming loose (or being installed incorrectly) and breaking pumps and a few timing covers. It's not terribly hard to get them set up, but it has to be right. And I now use locktite on the two main bolts, the ones going into the pan. - - - Updated - - - The long stud has a nut "built in". It is really a double ended bolt. So that stays in the pump. The n the thumb nut. Timing cover. Washer . Finally a normal hex nut. Washer and hex nut are missing.

That worked (well, of-fugging-course it did!) fyi, appreciate your help!

Jerry Scholder
09-07-2018, 10:22 AM
Great Thread for someone who has adjusted the "thumb nut" on the power steering pump inadvertently. I was wondering why my belt didn't seem to line up with the pulley it went to and wanted to know how to determine when the thumb nut was in the right position, (solidly against the timing cover ear). This answered the question.

geargrinder
09-07-2018, 02:55 PM
Zombie thread, but, not a bad one for a 'worth a reminder' bump...

It's the weirdest setup and really odd that there's not a better documented procedure by the factory... I think I have always put it on with a smidge fraction of a turn after contact?... IMO the exact calibration isn't THAT critical, but, if its not there or really screwed up then it will be bad... like as long as it is within 1 turn of the right place it'll be fine, but if its off a few turns, it has the potential to be a disaster...