bracket for soft/hard clutch lines 21521161512 for auto to manual and chassis swaps

[scooper]

Hi,

Does this bracket sit on the manual trans or is it located on the lower firewall area? I'm doing an auto to manual swap and the auto chassis that I'm doing a swap on does not have this clutch line bracket. I have a 3/94 build m3 (first month of production for US market). I'm doing a swap to a 8/94 325i chassis with auto trans.

Is it no. 20 bracket PN 21 52 1 161 512 (http://2009.bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/21521161512/)?

http://2009.bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E36/Sedan/USA/325i-M50/LHD/M/1994/august/browse/clutch/clutch_control/

(http://2009.bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E36/Sedan/USA/325i-M50/LHD/M/1995/march/browse/clutch/clutch_control/)Or is it no. 20 bracket PN 21 52 1 162 306 (http://2009.bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/21521162306/)

http://2009.bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E36/Coupe/USA/M3-S50/LHD/M/1994/march/browse/clutch/clutch_control/


Do obd2 cars have this bracket on the trans itself? I will take some pics. Thanks for any input.

Edgar

[EisnerRacing]

If I remember it goes on the firewall below the steering I think it's one 10mm

[scooper]

bolt on? thanks

[EisnerRacing]

Yup bolt on and the hose slips in with a clip

[scooper]

that's great news! is it the part number(s) I've identified?

[kt3130]

The bracket (#20) bolts onto the manual transmission using one of the slave cylinder bots. The slave cylinder hardline is connected to the soft line at this point. You need it to support the connection. If I read your description correctly, you should have this bracket on the side of the transmission already. What you need is the bracket where the hard line that mounts to the master cylinder meets the soft line. This bracket is welded to the body and cant be bought (I think). Some Auto cars have this and some do not (mine didnt). You have two options. 1) you can just run a soft line from the MC all the way through the fire wall and down to the SC hard line (need to get a custom line made with the proper MC fittings). This can be done easily as a lot of auto makers use soft lines from the MC. 2) Gerry-rig a way to secure the hard line to the body. I wrapped the MC hard line in rubber tube, then zip tied it to the hard brake lines which run right under the MC hard line at the connecting point (where the MC hardline connects to the soft line). Kinda ghetto, but if it fails Ill just get a soft line made. If you need pics, let me know. This issue caused me some consternation when I was doing my swap as it isnt really talked about in the DIYs.

[scooper]

thanks kt. I think the little bracket I have separating the hard and soft line leading up to the SC is welded on afterall. Guess it's not a big deal. I may just buy all the lines and a new MC to match. That way I know everything fits and keep it OEM. The auto 325i chassis I have doesn't have that welded tab either. I'm going to take some pics today.

Btw, can you also shed some light on the wiring of the neutral interlock, reverse lights, and ...I think there is one other thing I need to modify to make the swap OE-like. I'm on page 13 of the auto to manual swap thread and the correct info seems to be all over the place.

[Randy Forbes]

The bracket (#20) bolts onto the manual transmission using one of the slave cylinder bots. The slave cylinder hardline is connected to the soft line at this point. You need it to support the connection. If I read your description correctly, you should have this bracket on the side of the transmission already. What you need is the bracket where the hard line that mounts to the master cylinder meets the soft line. This bracket is welded to the body and cant be bought (I think). Some Auto cars have this and some do not (mine didnt). You have two options. 1) you can just run a soft line from the MC all the way through the fire wall and down to the SC hard line (need to get a custom line made with the proper MC fittings). This can be done easily as a lot of auto makers use soft lines from the MC. 2) Gerry-rig a way to secure the hard line to the body. I wrapped the MC hard line in rubber tube, then zip tied it to the hard brake lines which run right under the MC hard line at the connecting point (where the MC hardline connects to the soft line). Kinda ghetto, but if it fails Ill just get a soft line made. If you need pics, let me know. This issue caused me some consternation when I was doing my swap as it isnt really talked about in the DIYs.Honestly, I'd forego that kluge and just use this Z3 hose:

http://www.spcarsplus.com/gallery3/var/resizes/Z3_clutch_hose/IMG_7320.jpg?m=1304140549

http://www.spcarsplus.com/gallery3/var/resizes/Z3_clutch_hose/IMG_7322.jpg?m=1304140549

http://www.spcarsplus.com/gallery3/var/resizes/Z3_clutch_hose/IMG_7323.jpg?m=1304140549

http://www.spcarsplus.com/gallery3/var/resizes/Z3_clutch_hose/IMG_7326.jpg?m=1304140549

Obviously, you'll still need a bracket for the hose at the other end, but you'll be eliminating a fitting joint (potential for leak) and some hdwr @ the xmsn.

[kt3130]

Btw, can you also shed some light on the wiring of the neutral interlock, reverse lights, and ...I think there is one other thing I need to modify to make the swap OE-like. I'm on page 13 of the auto to manual swap thread and the correct info seems to be all over the place.

I dont want to throw out the a_hole response of, "read the entire swap thread"....but, there is a lot of good info dispersed throughout it. Slogging through the whole thread really helped me to understand the concept, which allowed me to adjust to fit my needs. As painful as it gets a times, you kinda have to go through the entire auto to manual swap thread to fully understand every nuance of the swap as there are "must have" procedures that you have to do to get the car running and "nice to have" procedures to make the car OEM like. The only issue that is not covered as well in the thread is the running of the clutch lines, which is why I responded to your question. Its not rocket surgery, just requires patience. And, Forbes has a good idea WRT to the clutch line.